gunrunner32

I've tried to run the same ammo out of my .30 cal Blackhawk and I ran into the same problem...that box of ammo is still sitting on my work bench. I've figured it to be the expansion of the steel casings, that or the finish on them. Either way I'm going to be spending the extra little bit for the brass cased ammo from now on. G&L when in stock carries some for right around $23 a box of 50 if I'm not mistaken. I usually get it from them since it's one of the few places I've found that keeps a decent stock of it.

Very nice, I'm envious.

My wife never was a fan of any other color than black or stainless. I've tried to spice up some of my personal ones but they always end up black again. I've showed here a few pink guns and some with a nice pearl coat on them and still not a fan. More power to ya though KCC, hopefully you don't waste too much on stocking those colors since Cerakote isn't cheap. You should try your hand a mixing some of the titanium's into other colors and see what you get. I did a 3 parts graphite black to 1.5 parts blue titanium and it turned out pretty good. The titaniums give the predominant color a nice metalic flake look to it, it does take some trial and error though.

If you are using it for HD purposes only then a simple point of aim/point of impact would work best at the desired distance. You could go with the 25/300 meter zero which is the standard military zero or you could go with a 50/200 meter zero which I like to use. Using a standard M4 zero target you should be able to achieve the zero at either 3 ways. All you are going to have to do is figure out the grid method and how many clicks it will take to move the EOTech dot to the desired location. Or you could go the cheap way and color some 1" black squares on a piece of paper and put your dot directly on them and get the impact zone on the lower half of the square. That's the cheap method and how I usually do mine since my wife yells at me when I "waste ink" printing off targets. You could also get in contact with the nice folks at Mid-south Institute of Self-defense Shooting ( - MidSouth Institute of Self Defense Shooting - Weapons Training, Firearms Training, Pistol, Shotgun, Carbine ) and they have some awesome zero targets that you can buy from them. Once I get home I'll be able to mail you a bunch of printable zero targets for various platforms. I'll have to check my cd's and I may have one for the SCAR, I know I have an armorers presentation on disassembly/reassembly for the SCAR. I'll see what I have this weekend for you.

I would have had to guess you found it when you were mowing your grass. None the less, as long as she runs smooth good on ya. I'm helping a friend rebuild a Colt on a Fosters frame from parts that have found him as well. I'll have to post pictures of it when we get done, or and he chose the finish...not me. It'll be a custom mixed Black and Blue Titanium slide (3 parts black to 1.5 parts Blue Titanium) and small parts and just Blue Titanium frame. I just need to get back in town first. Oh and if you ever need another original GI spec rear sight let me know there's one sitting on my work bench.

Should have looked at a pair of Native Hardtops. I use a pair mountain biking and they have a nice close fit, come with 2 sets of lenses (Polarized Grey and Sportflex(good for low light conditions)). And if you can get an account with www.3point5.com or www.promotive.com you could pick them up for about 50% off, give or take a little.

That has got to be close to double digit pricing per round. I get mad when I can't find .45LC for less than 50 cents a round or my .303 Brit for less than 1$ a round. Guess that's where reloading would come in handy. Edit: Found a single round for sale, loaded for the low low price of $49.95. Ammo For Sale : For Collecting - One Cartridge 577 Tyrannosaur, Loaded, (S-31) - Auction: 8524979 (Ended 03/13/2010, 17:35:02 PST)

I've got a Wilson Tactical Auto Knife that I usually carry at work, the spring in it had since broken. I contacted Wilson Tactical a few months back to get it fixed and I had to pay shipping both ways and an additional 10$ to get it repaired. My question is, is anyone familiar with repairing these types of knives and is it something I could do. I was just looking at knifekits.com at the springs and tools. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and have a way of figuring things out, so I'm not afraid to tackle this on my own. I don't have the knife in front of me and I haven't taken it apart yet either so I don't know the size of the spring I'm looking for. Can anyone assist me in a repair or let me know it's not going to be bad. All I can imagine is all kinds of little springs all over the place and other small stuff for me to lose. For those who need a visual, this is what it is minus the serrations: Wilson Tactical Combat Elite RR Auto Drop Point BK/SBT

I was thinking that he could have used his backdrop to buy a third...that's what I would have done if I had money laying around. That is if my wife didn't snatch it up before I could.

If you go with something like that how would the "couch potato snipers" put their bipods on their bolt actions anymore? Guess they will have to learn how to shoot using the sling for stability or standing off-hand...I think they look good and give a clean look to the rifle.

Looks pretty good to me, what temp did you bake the frame at? I like the green as well, which one is it? I just did a 1911 in a blue titanium (frame) and a 3 parts graphite black to 1.5 parts blue titanium (slide and small parts) for a guy. The color combo looks great in pieces but the gun needs some TLC in the reassembly phase so I'll eventually get pics once he's done with it.

I'm going to have to give a third thumbs up to GunTroll.

I was at Middle TN Gunsmithing over the weekend getting a few pointers on how to properly lay out the threads on a barrel and cut the crown on a Mark 77. GunTroll is very good and with the time spent in set up alone the end product is nothing but quality. He runs a professional shop and his passion is bolt actions. Being in Springfield it's a bit closer than going down to Knoxville. Needless to say I've been working with GunTroll at Mid TN Gunsmithing for a while now and have seen the majority of his work and it's been nothing but quality. Check into him, I don't think you'll be dissapointed by the quality of the work.

I figured you wouldn't have waited long after I left before you put it back together. I'm glad you liked it, I know I enjoyed doing it. Its looks great now that it's all together.

I had a nice run in with the Highway Patrol in New Mexico, I got busted going 73 in a 50. I hadn't seen a sign in a while and I was out of the "town" if you could call it that, so I thought I was clear to run at highway speeds. Turns out when I stop I'm staring at the 65 mph sign about 100 yards in front of me. I told the cop that with the sign in front of me this is going to sound stupid but I thought I was in the 70 mph zone. He had a good laugh and informed me that it wasn't for a few more miles. After seeing that I was visiting he asked how much longer I was in town, I told him only 1 more day and he said as long as I don't get pulled over again all I was going to get was a written warning. The nice thing was the written warning was for doing 65 in a 50. It's good to get out easy. I was pulled over another time in North Carolina for going 79 in a 55, didn't see the speed changed on me. I paid a lawyer who used to be the DA in the city to get me off, it cost me $450 to keep my license.

Prize or not, both the wheel guns I have in the house I've never shot yet so hopefully I do decent with them. I'll be sure to email the pictures of my better attempts to the blog email for judging.

I've got presidents day off so I'll be at G&L sometime that day. I'm going to try my hand at both my new wheel guns. Uberti 1873 Cattleman .45 Colt and a FIE Little Ranger .22lr, both are single action only. We'll see which one I am good with. Since that's all I have to do that day I will be participating in this months no matter what.

Oh no it looks great. I was just saying that coating it the same color it already is makes it kind of difficult to see exactly where you started and stopped. I figured it out though, I had my light angled so I could see the sheen difference. I'll be asking for pictures once you get it put back together anyhow, I want to see it all done. Right now I'm holding the pieces up together and the contrast looks great but without anything going together it's hard to imagine it all done.

I think I'm going to get some of that TruOil and try that little thing out, it was a good thread on rimfire central and it looked like it had some great results. I need to get down to your place GT and give you back your shotgun. I should be ready to head to the Nashville area to buy/order me a new pistol anyhow by Friday. Oh and spraying Parker over a fresh parkerized gun is like coloring a blue piece of paper with a blue marker.

I was goofing around and looking up how much it would cost to get started plating and getting the chemicals from Brownells. The chemicals themselves would have been around $275 but then when you get into reading about the setup you need you're going to spend about $500 more in equipment and that's doing it cheap, but for $700 or $800 you can get a home plating kit which could potentially pay for itself over time. All you have to worry about is the chemicals...kinda harsh on skin and if you're worried about it, the environment. Good luck if you try, and if you do let me know how you did it because I wouldn't mind starting plating, that or case color hardening but that's about $2500 to get started with a kiln and some crucibles and all.

Thanks for the website bkelm18. I think I have it figured out now...to a point.

I second Mid-TN Gunsmithing, I work with him as well as pick his brain about building bolt actions. GunTroll is a great guy to deal with and does excellent work.

Can someone explain to me what geocacheing is? I'm very uninformed on this, all I know is you get coordinates and it's like a treasure hunt. Do you get what the last person put there and put something in it's place or am I just out there?

So I'm helping a friend at work refinish his Remington 870. He pulled it out before hunting season to find it had a lot of surface rust and the wood wasn't in the best of shape. He took the wood to refinish, I wook the metal to refinish after he tried with oil and steel wool. Needless to say his method left him with a shiny gun. I asked him what he wanted and he said just make it back so I said no problem, black is easy. Shortly before starting the project he said he wanted to have the word "BOOMSTICK" down the side in a tan, again not a problem. A vinyl cutter maked graphics easy, so I picked a font that I felt best reminded me of an "Evil Dead" theme since I couldn't get the exact font to load into the cutting program. I'm extremely bad about doing a before and after thing, it's always an after thought. Also with the wood he is looking to put a high shine on them, anyone have any suggestions for me to pass on to him? Here are the results, and let me know what you think.

It wasn't worth the drive to me. Admission was only 7 with the coupon so that was about the only good part of it. Nothing stood out as a deal to me at all.