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Posts posted by 79troublehead
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RCBS Case sizing lube. STP works pretty good also. Clean your cases first, or you'll score your dies all to hell. Get you a good reloading manual and read up on this stuff.
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Best wishes, and Good Luck.
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Notice the studied look of coolness under pressure evaporate when that thing goes of.
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If you look at the bottom, they drill through the compression gap. Just something to notice if you put one together and there's an issue with cycling. Easy to fix, though. If I had to guess, I'd say they buy the aluminum extrusion, saw it to length, and then to the cnc for indexing, boring, drilling, and slotting. One gets rolled around on the feed table during the process, and you've bored the gas tube from the wrong end. Easy to miss.
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Yep. Looking at the picture, the gas tube goes in from the left into the block, secured by the roll pin through the side hole shown. Now between the left side with the gas tube hole and the roll pin hole there should be a hole communicating between barrel and gas tube, through the block. The one I got had the gas port hole drilled on the right hand side (looking at the picture), with no way, no how, to port gas from barrel to tube. EGW said send it back, Midway said send it back, I drilled and reamed the tube hole completely thru, aligned the tube port with the existing gas port, and viola! the block port aligned with the barrel port as if made for it. which, undoubtedly it was. I tapped the original (factory) tube opening for a 5mm set screw plug and it works as Stoner said it should. Someone just had a bad day on the CNC machine at EGW. If it would have been a .750" block I would have ordered another and said done, but .875 blocks are fewer and harder to find, for some reason. Anyways, i was just wondering if this had happened to anyone else, as this is my first upper build.
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I'll get some pictures when I get home this evening, but it's just as I described: The gas block hole for the tube is in the normal rear position (towards the receiver), but the block gas port is is the front (i.e. closed) end of the gas block. In other words, when I install the tube, insert tube retaining pin, and install the block onto the barrel, (abutting the shoulder on said barrel), the gas port drilled in the gas block is to the front. about 1/2-3/4" away from the barrel port. So the tube orifice is facing an undrilled section of aluminum blocking the gas path from the barrel. I could simply bore the tube hole completely through, and tap the then unused open side for a set screw to seal it, since the thing will then install either way. It's an EGW clamp-on .875" gas block.
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The gas block I ordered arrived with the port drilled in the front of the block, opposite the tube opening in the rear. So the block port is in the front, and the barrel port is in the rear, and the tube port is lined up with the barrel port, with no connecting port between. Anyone else ever had this happen?
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5 bucks, free parking.
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It is usually a pretty good show.
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My hunting rifles are also levers (rossi and savage), or bolts (remington 788,700, and model 30 for nostalgia). And while the .257 and .250 savage are perfectly adequate whitetail and coyote rounds, I'm more inclined to the .30's: .308,.30/06, and .300 savage. So, the .25-45 won't fill any perceived need anymore than the .300BO will. It's just a thought to build a little better balanced (ballistically) rifle on the AR platform. As far as the fear of chambering an oversized round, I've heard of people cramming a .300BO round into a 5.56 barrel and firing it. You really got to pay attention.
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I started my .300 BO build, but in the spirit of true ADD, I've been looking at the .25-45 Sharps. Basically a .223 necked to .25 with a slight neck angle adjustment. Same platform advantages as the BO; replace the barrel and shoot. A ballistic equivalence to the .250-3000 Savage with the original 87 gr bullet: Around 3000 fps. Anybody here done any work with one?
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Rossi 92 in 44 mag next to the bed. There's an Ithaca 37 with #4 shot loaded in the closet if I have to go outside.
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No. We have a gun season, shoot .45-70, .56 spencer, .44 rimfire, etc., then if you want to.
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propane or natural gas all the way. dealt with gasoline for several years converted my military gen. to propane and havent looked back.. oh mine is big enough that the small loss of power is not noticable.
Who did the conversion for you?
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I have the Springfield GI, and other than the pain in the butt of staking a new front sight, replacing the rear to match the new height, and replacing the mainspring housing to get rid of the lock, It's been a fine pistol.
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Anyone here ever shoot any of this?
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I've shot their 9mm, 7mm mauser, and .22 hornet. No problems.
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ditch the bitch.
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Don't mean to be argumentative, but DON'T USE BOILING WATER!!!
Yes, the heat will help to dry the bore, but it'll also cause flash rusting. Guaranteed.
Cold or warm water, with a few drops of Dawn or Simple Green works perfectly. Also, don't use a bore brush. Get the correct sized jag & use lots of cotton patches (old T-Shirts are your friend!) Reason being, some bore brushes are simply slid & crimped into the rod threads. If one pulls loose in the barrel, being that it's only open at one end...., you'll have to get real creative in getting it back out!
To check to see if it's loaded, lay the ramrod alongside the barrel, so that the bottom end is roughly ½" towards the muzzle, of the nipple. Mark the rod in line with the muzzle. Now insert the rod into the bore & your mark & the muzzle should line up, pretty durn close. If it's about ½" proud, chances are there's a ball in there, but no powder (A Bad Thing) An inch or so, & yes, it's loaded.
Well, we will just disagree.
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One more thing I do is mark my ramrod with a small notch or marker where it comes out of the end of the barrel with a charge loaded. Just a visual and tactile check to be sure. Sometimes if I don't get a shot that day, and I'm headed back out in the next morning, I'll leave it loaded and just pull the cap. Just don't bring it into a warm house and then back out in the cold again. Condensation and such.
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With mine, a .54 hawken reproduction, I remove the barrel from the stock, remove the nipple with a nipple wrench, put a pan of water on to boil. Scrub the bore with hot soapy water and a bore brush, Grab the barrel with a set of bbq tongs or similar and pour the boiling water down the bore. Set the barrel aside, (the heat from the water will dry it) and scrub the nipple with a old toothbrush and a nipple pick or fire copper wire. A little oil on a bore swab through the bore, a little dab of anti seize on the nipple threads, wipe down the barrel with a little oil on a rag, and reassemble. I always pop a cap before I load for the woods, just to clear the nipple. That's how I do it, and the thing still looks like it did 20 years ago. One thing, some times they don't shoot the same POI from a clean bore as they do from a lightly fouled one. Just something to check at the range, before you hit the woods.
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It's the curse of the older gun. I search out 7mm mauser, .300 savage, .38 S&W, and .250-3000 like Diogenes searching for an honest man. (with often the same result.) Reloading is the best solution.
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Don't try this at home
in Ammunition and Reloading
Posted
Boredom after the holidays, classic symptoms.