Clod Stomper

The radio commercials with "Jim Mackery" or however his name is spelled. Trying to sell his lakefront lots that were stolen from the original landowners and resold to developers. His nasal, northern accent grates on my ears. If I'm within reach of the radio, I change the station every time.

We 6.5 G fans may be a bit fanatical, but you won't find the animus on the Grendel forum that is on the 6.8 forum. I read their forum for a while and the behavior toward fans of any other round and specifically the creator of the .300 Blackout is like that of a bunch of preteens. To the original question, I have no experience with the .300 Blk and very little with the .300 Whisper. But some friends from where I used to work have killed hundreds of wild pigs with the Whisper, both super- and sub-sonic. They originally used subsonic rounds exclusively, but eventually went to supersonic exclusively for the extra "put-down" power. The creator of the .300 Blk, Mr. Silvers, has made some improvements over the Whisper in order to get more velocity without higher pressure. It's basically the equivalent of the 7.62x39 without the necessity of changing magazines and bolts in ARs. I considered one for a while, but since I probably will not be buying any factory ammo, I decided to go with a 7.62x40 Wilson Tactical. It has a longer case for more powder capacity and more velocity. Not as optimum for subsonic, but can still be done. And I won't have to cut as much length from my 5.56 cases when I'm cutting them down. One downside is needing to cut the front rib from polymer mags so the longer rounds will fit better. I don't know how they will do in standard AL mags, but I'll probably be using PMags anyway. But if you're going to be buying factory ammo, the .300 Blackout is the way to go. You can't beat the price of commercial ammo, unless you go with one of the rounds sold by Wolf. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/547535/remington-umc-ammunition-300-aac-blackout-762x35mm-115-grain-full-metal-jacket-box-of-20 Will

I think that's going to depend on the locality. If there is a state law, I hope someone jumps in and lets us know. But I don't think there is. I shoot in my back (and front, and side) yard all the time.

I know that steel is annealed by letting it cool slowly. I always wondered why everyone always seemed to say to quench brass to anneal it. I just assumed that brass properties were different than steel. Good to find out the truth. I have never annealed brass, but always considered it an option with more expensive brass. I usually just throw away cases when the necks crack. But now that I'm shooting 6.5 Grendel, there is no such thing as cheap cases (yet). I guess I'm not too old to learn something. Will

Has to be a troll. That is their stereotype of the "little people" who the left always claims to "be for". The pick-up drivin', beer swillin', gun-totin', redneck. C'mon, "scabs", "busting unions", "working man"? Did we just ride the ol' time machine back 100 years? The republicans only support the "rich fat cats"? Must be a writer for Saturday Night Live. Will (who drives a foreign pick-up, carries a gun (or two) and knows a fraud like Obama when he sees one) Edit: Oops, nearly got a warning point!

Gotcha. I had an idea rolling around in the vast expanses of my head of buying a beater Savage 99 in .300 and reaming it to .308. Since the .308s are harder to find and usually more expensive when I see them. But I put that on the back burner a while back, so I never got around to getting either the rifle or the reamer. At least I don't THINK I bought the reamer. I'll check my toolbox....

I'm just curious. If your primary purpose is shooting cast bullets, then you're not really looking for the extra 200 fps that the .308 has over the .300 Sav, right? (I'm speculating here). So, what is the purpose of reaming the chamber to .308? I'm guessing it is the extra neck length, like you mentioned. So how about leaving (most of) the chamber alone and reaming the neck and throat to .308 length? Then all you'd need to do would be to set the shoulder back on some .308 brass to match the .300 Sav body and shoulder but leave a longer neck. So you basically have a .300 Savage "Long-Neck". Approximately, .365". I think PTG already has the correct reamers. You would probably need to ream the case necks to the correct thickness. I've formed .300 Sav cases from 7.62 and the necks have been too thick. IME. The same would probably hold true for .30-06 cases formed to a "Long-Neck" .308 case, as well. http://www.pacificto...er.htm#nandtrmr The benefits? Less chamber reaming. Less case capacity. Cheaper brass to form. Cheaper reamer cost, I think. I'm just throwing this out there, of course. If I had a .308 reamer, I'd be happy to loan it to you. I've been wanting to get one for a while, but haven't done it yet. Will

What's a zombie? Humanoid-type creatures with only enough brain activity to tell them to find something to eat, right? Yep, the apocalypse has begun. [media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I2xdJaHiaEM[/media]

Thanks guys. Victor9er, you read right. I was shooting better with the 9 mm bbl than with the 357. But being completely different barrels, I can see how one would shoot differently than the other. As far as flinching, I got over that years and years ago. I'm not a perfect shot, but my problems never involve flinching, bucking or jerking. And to be honest, I expected the 357 Sig to have more recoil than it does. It's only slightly more energetic than the 9mm. My Para-Ordnance P10 (which was surprisingly accurate) had quite a bit more muzzle flip than this pistol. M14man, I hadn't thought about the recoil spring being weak, but the pistol is like new. First pistol I've bought from an FFL in nearly 20 years. I'll try some different ammo. If it still won't shoot. I'll chalk it up to a bad barrel and swap it out for an aftermarket. Thanks everyone. Will

Whew. You must be a hoss. I used a Stihl 066 with a shorter bar than that dropping snags all day once. I was whipped by the end of the day. This was when I was using a chainsaw daily, but usually a 036 or a 044. I'll stick with my lightweight AR for the Zombies. Remember, "Kill smarter, not harder". Will

If she lets you sell it, the closest UPS center to you is probably Maryville. It's on Robert C Jackson Dr., just off of 321.

I'm right-hand/left-eye. I shoot handguns right-handed. RIfles and shotguns go on the left shoulder. It has worked well for me for 37 years. Will

Thanks for the replies. I guess I should elaborate a bit on my technique. I do dry practice regularly. I really had to to get used to the Glock trigger. But when I dry-fire, there is no sight movement. This isn't the first Glock I've shot, but it's the first I've owned. I've never had a problem keeping on target with any others. My grip and stance are just as Kevo suggested and that's how I teach new shooters as well. The only thing I had to change about my grip with the Glock is I have to cant my firing (right) hand slightly to the right to keep my trigger finger from dragging on the frame. I suppose it was a broad generalization to say that Glocks aren't known for their accuracy. I know the design is not inherently inaccurate. But sometimes the barrel may leave something to be desired. As seems to be the case with mine. I'm going to try some different ammo and handloads. Unless there is a drastic improvement, I guess I'll be getting a Lone Wolf barrel or three. For now, I have the 9mm barrel in it since it shoots better, despite the fact that I only have one 9mm mag. Thank you everyone for the replies. Will Edit: Patton, that makes me think that I may just have stumbled onto a bad ammo/barrel combination. I hope that's the case. Karnage, that's a good price on that ammo. Thanks for the link. I may give it a try. I'll try a single box first to see how it shoots in my pistol.

Yep. Forgot to add that. I was using Winchester white box 357 Sig, 125 JHP. The 9mm were my handloads. 115 JHP. Both barrels were clean. No lead through these polygonal barrels. Thanks for pointing that out. Didn't think to include that either. I hate to buy another box of factory rounds, but I may try out the Speer Lawman 125s. Or load some of my own to try. I haven't yet bought 357 Sig dies, but I'll have to soon if I want to stay proficient with this pistol. Factory ammo is just too expensive. It will probably be my regular carry pistol, as long as I can get it to shoot where I'm aiming. Thank you, Will

Finally got a chance to shoot some groups with the Glock 31 (357 Sig) that I bought several months ago. I know Glocks aren't known for their accuracy, but I was getting a terrible group with it. And I am quite sure that I am capable of better groups than this. (I tried very hard to post a couple pics of my targets, but I just couldn't figure it out. Maybe it's too late at night or something. I've done it before on this forum, but it ain't happenin' tonight. I uploaded the pics to Flickr if anyone wants to give me some posting instruction.) Anyway, using a 9" diameter paper plate with an "X" in the middle at about 32 feet, I kept 6 out of 10 rounds on the plate. The ones that hit the target, are spread out about 7". I was actually trying for tight groups, not speed. Well, I knew that wasn't right, so I dropped in a 9mm barrel that I bought at the same time. A factory 9mm barrel, not a conversion barrel. So there is a bit of lateral movement when it's in battery. Still, as I started shooting (not thinking at the time that I would post this to TGO) my rounds started dropping in right around the "X". I upped my cadence and spread them out to about 6" vertically. But it was still nothing like with the 357 barrel. Dropped all 17 rounds within about 2.5" horizontally and 6" vertically. And that's with a barrel with a bit of slop. So what's the deal? Is this common with a 357 Sig Glock? I can't imagine that it is. Ultimately, my plan is to get Lone Wolf barrels in .40 S&W, a 9mm conversion, and now one in 357 Sig, so I'm not worried about sending it to the factory or anything like that. I'm just wondering if this can possibly be normal. Thanks for any input. Will

I have no experience with the old .30 Rem either (or the .30 Rem AR). I do have plenty of experience with the .30 WCF. Including shooting cast, gas-check boolits through <GASP> Marlin's Micro-Groove rifling. Just threw that tidbit in for you, Caster. I think the .30 RAR is geared toward hunters, so magazine capacity is not an issue. At least to most hunters. Hunters in the western U.S. do need more distance, which the RAR provides, I think. Personally, I have become less and less interested in .30 cal rounds. I've become a fan of the 6.5 (.264) in the past few years. Especially the 6.5 Grendel. The Grendel catches the .30-30 at a bit past 100 yards energy-wise. With less recoil and noise, shorter barrel and larger mag capacity, I might add. I do still like the .30 cal for closer ranges. I'm planning to piece together a 7.62x40 WT in an AR pistol right now. But only for shorter distances. If I feel the need to go past 200 yards, I'll still go to the Grendel. Will

I think I understand what you're saying. Some people carry "butt-forward", right? I'm with you, it makes no sense. For that matter, I don't carry behind the midline either. I prefer "appendix carry". Between 1 and 3 o'clock for a righty. Doesn't print when bending over and I can see immediately if my shirttail has ridden up over my pistol. I also think retention is easier. Will

I've heard this advice for years. "Turn on your flashers, acknowledge the officer, drive to a well-lit area". I have a suspicion that that's going to invite a "felony stop" with guns drawn and the driver walking backward toward the officer's voice. Or worse, the driver being dragged out of the seat, slammed to the ground and handcuffed. Any relevant experience here? Do LEO's respect driver's cautions? Or do they get annoyed and pull their sidearms?

Heh. I "open-carried" a cap-and-ball revolver to school in Junior High on "Cowboy Day" once. I had the Principal's permission beforehand, too, It wasn't loaded, of course. And I was a straight-A student with an exemplary record. And it was a small, rural town. And it was a quarter-century ago..... I have to stop now. I'm getting depressed.

Sending you a PM. Will

I picked up a .625 front sight base super cheap. I don't even need it. Just bought it because it was $5. It's yours if you need it. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the show yesterday. I found parts that are getting hard to find even online. At good prices, too. Will

Must be different for different individuals. I've had to self-inject epi when I had an allergic reaction to yellowjackets. I was good as new 20 minutes later except for soreness at the injection site. The first time I had a reaction, I had no epinephrine and I did get nauseous then. To the OP, like Metalhead said, having a plan in place will help a lot in case it happens again. Training and a plan. Those will help prevent the massive adrenaline dump in the first place. And don't let yourself be surprised by anything. Expect that car to pull out in front of you. Expect that person standing too close to grab your wife's purse. And expect that knock (or pounding) on the door when you're relaxing at home. Or maybe I'm just a natural pessimist. But it's always worked for me.

Has anyone on here used these yet? http://troyind.com/%...0%B3-with-sight For my next carbine, I'm thinking of going with the Troy Alpha Rail with the front sight built in. It appears that the Alpha Rail is going to replace the TRX Extreme. Just wondering. I know the TRX is very light, but has anyone used one of the new Alpha Rails? I'm looking for lightweight. I know the front sight will add some weight, but probably not much. Otherwise, I'll go with the standard Alpha Rail or TRX and use Magpul BUIS, but I like that the front sight folds down into the rail and completely out of the way. I'm interested in hearing about any experiences with either the TRX Extreme or the Alpha Rail, especially the Alpha with sights. Also open to other suggestions for other lightweight free float tubes. I have used carbon fiber before. They're ok, but not what I want for this one. Also have used Midwest SS series. I probably won't go with those anymore. Thanks, Will

I appreciate the feedback. I do realize that I can't compete with Cheaper Than Dirt. That's why I'll probably keep it within driving distance and local gun shows. Of course I would be happy to ship to anyone if that's what they wanted. I may put this project on hiatus for a while as I save up the cash. I'll let everyone here know when I start selling. Thanks, Will

I have a friend that bought a couple of these ceramic filters a while back. http://www.cheaperth.../CAMP352-1.html They were also mentioned in another recent post. I checked out the manufacturer's website and thought I might like to buy and resell them locally. Mostly for something interesting to do and to make a little extra cash. Unfortunately, they have a minimum purchase requirement for distributors. So, before I lay out the capital, I figured I should get an idea of what kind of interest there might be in this area for these filters. I would mostly be setting up at Knoxville gun shows and posting on Craigslist, but I may also become an advertiser on this forum, depending. So, check out the website and please give me your feedback. http://www.justwater.me/ I would like to offer the portable bottle and backpack filters, too. Perhaps even primarily, because as mentioned in the other thread, bucket filters can be made at home. Thanks, Will P.S. I want to make it clear that I am not soliciting orders right now. I am simply trying to find out if there would be enough interest to justify they effort. Though judging by the response so far, I'm beginning to doubt that there is.