peejman

Looks like you've got a lot of tools a hobby machinist would like to have. The various drills and end mills all appear to be high speed steel, which is good for hobby use but not very durable for industrial use. The micrometers, dial indicators, and 1-2-3 blocks are probably the most valueable, assuming they're accurate. You'd need a set of gauge blocks or pins to verify calibration on those. Some time spent surfing around Industrial Equipment - Browse the Big Book online at MSCDirect.com might help give you an idea of the value. Else having an experienced machinist look through your stuff would help. Ebay is a good solution, group the items into small-ish lots for sale.

There's a whole host of rifles that fit your description. A few questions questions... 1. Do you want a "tactical" style rifle or a traditional style rifle? 2. Preferred cartridge? .223 being the smallest and ??? being the largest? 3. How much do you want to spend? 4. Do you really want a semi-auto rifle or just a bolt action with a magazine? If your primary intent is for hunting, keep in mind that most states require magazine capacity no greater than 10 rounds, which means special mags for most tactical style rifles. The AR platform has, by far, the most options as it chambered in all manner of cartridges in addition to .223. Beyond those: SKS, AK-47, AK-74, FN FAL, M1A, Garand, M1 Carbine, MIni-30, Mini-14, Remington 7400, ... the list of options is very long.

Congrats! Hope you enjoyed the experience.

Pics of the rusted area would help. It's been very hot and humid lately, if you've been carrying it up against your body and not wiping it down daily, some surface rust is inevitable. Perhaps the disassembly latch on your gun didn't get the best bluing job. Glocks are mostly plastic, so obviously they aren't as prone to corrosion.

Most any subcompact will have double recoil springs... it's physics. The recoil spring needs X stiffness, Y travel, and must survive Z cycles. A single spring typically can't meet all 3 of those requirements. The amount of pre-load on the spring and it's stiffness will have an effect on felt recoil, but mainly how those behave in conjunction with the round being fired and the mass/design of the mechanism.

Looks like a great time. I look forward to that in a few years.

Life's too short to drink cheap beer, which is only good for cooking. And I'm a lightweight, a 6 pack lasts me at least a week. The "pick 6" at Food City and Kroger might be one of the 21st century's greatest ideas. Variety is the spice of life... New Belgium Fat Tire New Belgium 1554 New Belgium Skinny Dip Sam Adams Lager Sam Adams Light Sam Adams Seasonal Heineken Magic Hat #9 Lazy Magnolia Southern Pecan Smithwicks Blue Moon Full Moon Honey Moon Yuengling Light Yuengling Black and Tan Guinness Sam Smith's Nutbrown Ale ... the list goes on.

200 yds. Several kentucky windage shots to hit a 24" DIA target, Ruger P85MKII 9mm, iron sights, standing. Bullet dropped about 24" at that range. After I got the hold-over figured out, it was surprisingly consistent.

I spent a year in college working in the Maytag cooking appliances R&D lab. Ranges are quite simple. Don't sweat blowing your house up. While that potential does exist, a little common sense and good ventillation go a long way. We only almost blew the building up one time while I worked there.... As stated, step 1 is to purge the lines. Fire up all 4 top burners and run them on high until they all run steady for a minute or two. What type of igniter do you have? By your description, I assume it's a ceramic glow plug. If it's glowing hot, it's working properly. There's a thermostat next to it that verifies it's hot before turning the gas on to the burner. You should be able to hear the valve click when it comes on and it should only take a few seconds for the igniter to get hot. If the valve doesn't click, stick a voltmeter on the wires to the valve. If the voltage doesn't change when the igniter gets hot, the thermostat on the igniter is bad. If it does, the valve is bad. The fasteners that hold the igniter on will be a PITA to remove. All the heat cycles ruins them. Replace with quality stainless steel fasteners. A little high-temp anti-seize helps too. Take the bottom out of the range so you can access the burner/ignitor, the screws that hold it in are probably under it, in the drawer.

Funny and sad. Funny - the FBI's General Counsel got bitch-slapped by a corporate attorney. Sad - the FBI's General Counsel got bitch-slapped by a corporate attorney, and our tax dollars pay that guy.

Yep. And they had enough sense to go find a creek, pond, lake, river, to keep cool when it gets this hot instead of sweating in front of the TV. And they didn't have the urban jungle that retains so much heat. While it was just as hot during the day, it cooled off more at night.

Not anymore. Early ECU's required a small amount of power to maintain their memory (ROM). Newer cars use either flash memory (just like a camera card) or EPROM cards. Some have a hard-drive like a PC. It's cheaper, more stable, and doesn't require power.

Seems pretty clear that something isn't working properly. I'd guess that police cars have heavy-duty batteries and charging systems given the loads they must support. The battery shouldn't drain down in 48 hrs. It sounds like either the battery has a bad cell and isn't holding a charge or you've got a light staying on and draining it (which will also ruin a battery). I'd start with the suggestions of just disconnecting the battery when you know it'll sit for a day or two. Wrap a rag around the cable so it doesn't short. If the battery goes down while it's disconnected, clearly it's a bad battery. I don't know if the car has a volt meter in the dash, but connect a good one across the battery terminals. Watch the voltage when you start the car. It shouldn't drop much. If the voltage drops to about 9V or less when you hit the starter, bad battery.

Sorry you have to move. Moving sucks. But look on the bright side, at least it's not New Jersey.

I'd guess you have stronger hands than a lot of women. While I thought the recoil was snappy, my main complaint was the DAO trigger. After about 10 rds I needed a winch to pull it. Could have been specific to that pistol. Mrs.Peej had a blister forming in the web between her thumb and forefinger. I assume it came from her inability to keep the gun stable in her hand during recoil. Other revolvers I've shot have been fine, that's the only Airweight I've ever shot. I understand these are purely a defensive gun and in no way intended to be a fun plinker, so it serves it's purpose.

Comparing the PT145 and XD45c, the XD generally 10-15% larger in all dimensions. Essentially the same difference as between the service model and compact XD's. I've also wondered why no XD45sc. I don't have any real issues with controlling my PT145, as stated, just hold on tight. I'm sure I'd be faster and more accurate with a 5" steel 1911, but my PT145 is smaller, lighter, and has nearly double the capacity. Not to mention the 2-3x cost factor. The subcompact Glocks are just uncomfortable for me.

Is her preference for wheel guns based on handling or shooting? My wife shot my PT145 and didn't like the recoil. She handled an Airweight at Gander Mtn and loved it, so we rented one at the range. After 5 rounds, she turned to me and said... "I'd rather shoot your .45 than this thing." I agreed. I've shot several larger revolvers and really liked them. While the recoil was decidedly snappy, I think the muzzle blast bothered her more.

I've not used Critical Defense ammo in my PT145, so I'll be curious to see how it runs. The only ammo I've had any problems with was some very old, very dirty, surplus Lake City ball ammo. As for cleaning and oiling, I don't remember the brand of what I've got... it was in the kit at walmart and works well enough. A little oil goes a long way. Mine shoots quite well.

Fixed to more closely represent the relative ratios. And speaking of them... if Westboro Baptist can peaceably assemble to worship, there's no reason why Muslim's can't do the same. Preventing them from doing so is unconstitutional. If they want to blow stuff up, that's something else entirely.

Judging all Muslim's by the actions of jihadists is no different from judging all Baptists by the actions of Westboro Baptist.

This. I'll button a few buttons on the outer shirt if it's windy. The newer wicking materials in "performance" shirts are much cooler than plain ol' cotton when it's real hot. I've found that instead of wearing a cotton undershirt, the "under armor" type shirts are very comfortable. I just need to get a couple more. FWIW, the "Starter" brand at wallyworld is just as good and less than half the cost of real Under Armor.

I don't own one, but Bersa in general seems to have a similar reputation to Taurus. Lots of internet experts claim they're total crap while lots of other people quietly like them.

If you want to head towards being a super accurate bench rest shooter, it's time to start loading your own match grade stuff and look into upgraded guns. If you want to be a competent defensive pistol shooter, it's time to work on speed, moving targets, strong/weak hand only, shooting on the move... etc. Your accuracy is plenty good (wish I was that good).

Oh, since you said you were running behind, I figured you planned on going next week. End of September should be very nice. I haven't been tent camping in years either.

Awfull hot and humid for tent camping this time of year. Unless you get a backcountry permit and find a site up high. Beyond that, Indian Boundary (Tellico), Abrams Creek (Smoky's), Big South Fork, Breaks Interstate Park (KY), Joyce Kilmer, are other options (though obviously not near Gatlinburg).