peejman

Ask him in person first. Then make your decision regarding whether to ask him publicly. Could be an opportunity to spin it either way.

The important thing is the current potential. A stun gun has high voltage but only a few microamps, no damage likely. A car battery has low voltage but high current potential.... several hundred amps are possible. The current flow generates lots of heat and can cause local tack welding of metal parts (as mentioned), melting or distortion of polymer parts, possiby induce magnetism in some components, and could ruin the temper of springs. It takes a lot of heat to cook off a round.

This ^. Mine (horsehide) was somewhat squeaky. A bit of felt on the back of the belt clips fixed that.

Hunting squirrels is easy, just set up a couple of bird feeders and wait. Many a squirrel met it's end in my backyard when I was a kid.

Perfectly legal in the county. I seem to recall, but can't find, something about minimum distance from a dwelling. 300ft comes to mind. But again, I can't find that documented anywhere. Just be sure you do so in a safe manner, as opposed to the morons near me.... [rant] We'd heard gun shots relatively nearby for several days. Then my neighbor found a .40 bullet in his driveway. It likely came over my house to get there. When I told my wife, she said... Maybe that's what that thump was... Thump? Yeah, it sounded like something hit the house yesterday afternoon. So my neighbor and I have both spoken with the county sheriff's office. I don't like being nervous when I'm in my yard playing with my 2 yr old. [/rant]

While not specific to women, you have to attend this course to get a hunting license... Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency- Hunter Education There was a thread here with a group that wanted to learn... http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/hunting/44265-i-know-nothing-about-hunting.html You might also surf through the "stickys" in the hunting forum. I work with a bunch of avid hunters whom I also consider friends. Surprisingly, I've found it difficult to convince any of them to "show me the ropes". Our 2nd child is due around Christmas, so that'll pretty much rule out this coming season anyway.

As they've said... mostly likely Chinese mil-surp. Copper-washed (ie, very thin coating) steel cased ammo. Likely corrosive primers. Cannot be re-loaded cost effectively. Fine for plinking, just clean the rifle afterwards.

Ok.... up to $700 still gives lots of options. High-end AR's are out, but beyond that, there's lots of options. Sounds like you need to visit a few gun shops and see what's out there. Semi-auto rifles tend to be heavier than their bolt-action counterparts. The weight helps with recoil but you also have to lug it around. Not a big deal for me, but some it is for some. .223 is ok for deer if you're a good shot, coyotes, etc. Personally, I'd go with .243 or larger. I like my SKS. 7.62x39 has plenty of energy but the 9+lb rifle soaks it up nicely. It's easily "minute of paper plate" accurate to 150 yds. Quality polymer tipped hunting loads are available as is cheap mil-surp plinking ammo. And they're cheap, half the price of a Mini-30. It's my hunting/zombie rifle (at least until I get my FAL built). You might also find (or build yourself) the classic M4gery. Piece part AR's are within your price range but you're looking at $800+ for a higher end one. The AK-47 and AK-74 are also options. Most AK's are excellent "spray-n-pray" weapons. You'd need to find a nice Saiga or Norinco built one for satifactory accuracy (IMO).

You're welcome.

I used to be into RC stuff (mostly cars) when I was a kid, but they were so expensive back then that I quickly crashed myself out of business. My wife and I watched a guy flying by himself in a field in Spring Hill last fall. He was amazing. He had 4 helicopters and was doing all the fancy tricks... upside down, backwards, loops, rolls, ... all the really cool stuff you see on youtube. I chatted with him a little and marveled at his skill. Of course I asked him how many helicopters he'd wadded up learning all the tricks. His answer... none. He said he'd only really crashed hard one time and it was years prior. He told me about this simulation software where you actually use your own controller with your computer. He said he practiced the tricks over and over on the computer until he could do them easily, then tried them in real life. He said the simulator was very, very accurate. I forget the name of the software, but he said it was the best money he'd spent.

So I got a couple of pics of a sun halo this afternoon. Don't see them too often in the summer. I think the pics came out reasonably well given the P/S camera. The entire ring was visible for a while, though I don't have a wide enough angle lens to capture the whole thing. Thought they were neat, so I'd share... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halo_(optical_phenomenon)

I have the PT145 which is essentially the same as the 24/7 compact. I bought it primarily because of the ergonomics, it fits me very well. Mine's been great. I've had it for about 5 years and it's got a good 800 rounds through it. No issues, plenty accurate

Looks like you've got a lot of tools a hobby machinist would like to have. The various drills and end mills all appear to be high speed steel, which is good for hobby use but not very durable for industrial use. The micrometers, dial indicators, and 1-2-3 blocks are probably the most valueable, assuming they're accurate. You'd need a set of gauge blocks or pins to verify calibration on those. Some time spent surfing around Industrial Equipment - Browse the Big Book online at MSCDirect.com might help give you an idea of the value. Else having an experienced machinist look through your stuff would help. Ebay is a good solution, group the items into small-ish lots for sale.

There's a whole host of rifles that fit your description. A few questions questions... 1. Do you want a "tactical" style rifle or a traditional style rifle? 2. Preferred cartridge? .223 being the smallest and ??? being the largest? 3. How much do you want to spend? 4. Do you really want a semi-auto rifle or just a bolt action with a magazine? If your primary intent is for hunting, keep in mind that most states require magazine capacity no greater than 10 rounds, which means special mags for most tactical style rifles. The AR platform has, by far, the most options as it chambered in all manner of cartridges in addition to .223. Beyond those: SKS, AK-47, AK-74, FN FAL, M1A, Garand, M1 Carbine, MIni-30, Mini-14, Remington 7400, ... the list of options is very long.

Congrats! Hope you enjoyed the experience.

Pics of the rusted area would help. It's been very hot and humid lately, if you've been carrying it up against your body and not wiping it down daily, some surface rust is inevitable. Perhaps the disassembly latch on your gun didn't get the best bluing job. Glocks are mostly plastic, so obviously they aren't as prone to corrosion.

Most any subcompact will have double recoil springs... it's physics. The recoil spring needs X stiffness, Y travel, and must survive Z cycles. A single spring typically can't meet all 3 of those requirements. The amount of pre-load on the spring and it's stiffness will have an effect on felt recoil, but mainly how those behave in conjunction with the round being fired and the mass/design of the mechanism.

Looks like a great time. I look forward to that in a few years.

Life's too short to drink cheap beer, which is only good for cooking. And I'm a lightweight, a 6 pack lasts me at least a week. The "pick 6" at Food City and Kroger might be one of the 21st century's greatest ideas. Variety is the spice of life... New Belgium Fat Tire New Belgium 1554 New Belgium Skinny Dip Sam Adams Lager Sam Adams Light Sam Adams Seasonal Heineken Magic Hat #9 Lazy Magnolia Southern Pecan Smithwicks Blue Moon Full Moon Honey Moon Yuengling Light Yuengling Black and Tan Guinness Sam Smith's Nutbrown Ale ... the list goes on.

200 yds. Several kentucky windage shots to hit a 24" DIA target, Ruger P85MKII 9mm, iron sights, standing. Bullet dropped about 24" at that range. After I got the hold-over figured out, it was surprisingly consistent.

I spent a year in college working in the Maytag cooking appliances R&D lab. Ranges are quite simple. Don't sweat blowing your house up. While that potential does exist, a little common sense and good ventillation go a long way. We only almost blew the building up one time while I worked there.... As stated, step 1 is to purge the lines. Fire up all 4 top burners and run them on high until they all run steady for a minute or two. What type of igniter do you have? By your description, I assume it's a ceramic glow plug. If it's glowing hot, it's working properly. There's a thermostat next to it that verifies it's hot before turning the gas on to the burner. You should be able to hear the valve click when it comes on and it should only take a few seconds for the igniter to get hot. If the valve doesn't click, stick a voltmeter on the wires to the valve. If the voltage doesn't change when the igniter gets hot, the thermostat on the igniter is bad. If it does, the valve is bad. The fasteners that hold the igniter on will be a PITA to remove. All the heat cycles ruins them. Replace with quality stainless steel fasteners. A little high-temp anti-seize helps too. Take the bottom out of the range so you can access the burner/ignitor, the screws that hold it in are probably under it, in the drawer.

Funny and sad. Funny - the FBI's General Counsel got bitch-slapped by a corporate attorney. Sad - the FBI's General Counsel got bitch-slapped by a corporate attorney, and our tax dollars pay that guy.

Yep. And they had enough sense to go find a creek, pond, lake, river, to keep cool when it gets this hot instead of sweating in front of the TV. And they didn't have the urban jungle that retains so much heat. While it was just as hot during the day, it cooled off more at night.

Not anymore. Early ECU's required a small amount of power to maintain their memory (ROM). Newer cars use either flash memory (just like a camera card) or EPROM cards. Some have a hard-drive like a PC. It's cheaper, more stable, and doesn't require power.

Seems pretty clear that something isn't working properly. I'd guess that police cars have heavy-duty batteries and charging systems given the loads they must support. The battery shouldn't drain down in 48 hrs. It sounds like either the battery has a bad cell and isn't holding a charge or you've got a light staying on and draining it (which will also ruin a battery). I'd start with the suggestions of just disconnecting the battery when you know it'll sit for a day or two. Wrap a rag around the cable so it doesn't short. If the battery goes down while it's disconnected, clearly it's a bad battery. I don't know if the car has a volt meter in the dash, but connect a good one across the battery terminals. Watch the voltage when you start the car. It shouldn't drop much. If the voltage drops to about 9V or less when you hit the starter, bad battery.