peejman

Cool. I love how they've gotten the staff guys involved in these competitions. It's fun to watch "mere mortals" run the stages. Gives me even more appreciation for just how good the pros really are.

Heh... that's only a little worse than the normal lunch rush at that one. It's always swamped. I hope they publish a single day sales figure.

The 1903's bolt is very similar to the 98 Mauser design. While doing some reading about a related problem, I found this which touches on the problem you're having. I don't think there's a problem with the trigger/sear engagement, it's just the safety/cocking piece in the bolt are worn. Bear in mind, I'm no expert. Scroll about 3/4 down the page... http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=119&t=26426

Get some luminescent white paint and paint the sights (such as they are). A friend painted the tip of the front sight and the face of the rear sight on his LCP and it makes them really "pop" to your eye a whole lot more. I need to do that to my P3AT. But at the same time, like most others have said... it's a "get off me" gun, most likely to be used within arms length. Practice one-handed point shooting and shooting from retention at 3-5 yds more than the classic two handed 15 yd stuff.

Cool. The shape of blade looks a little unusual. Is that by design or...?

What prag said. I have a food saver too. It's great, but you will have a small percentage of bags that won't seal properly. It may not be obvious at first, but after a few weeks in the freezer, you'll notice the bags has lost it's compression. A few things I've learned with my food saver... moisture is the enemy. If you're trying to seal up anything with significant moisture content, it's best to freeze it before vacuum sealing. The pump will suck the moisture out of the food and interfere with the heat sealing. Be meticulous about keeping the open end of the bag clean before sealing. Make the bags at least twice as big as you think they need to be. Seal them with the textured side of the bag up. I don't know why, but we've had much less problems with poor seals that way. If you're a mechanical/wrenching type... the sealer is also very handy for packaging small parts. Bearings, seals, o-rings, and any other items that need to be kept clean.

Neato.

A very hot wood fire will work if you have the patience to leave it in the coals long enough. The iron needs to be at least 1500 deg. A very hot fire will be more than 2000 deg. A hand held torch won't work as it can't heat the whole piece evenly. Quenching is usually done in a bucket of water or oil. http://www.beautifuliron.com/usingthe.htm

That certainly looks yummy, though I was expecting something more like this.... http://www.bbqaddicts.com/blog/recipes/bacon-explosion/

Might be nice to have as a change of pace, but you'll get a lot more nutritional mileage out of 50lbs of rice or oats.

Good deal. Get her a good flashlight. The mess in Colorado has prompted my wife to talk about getting her HCP again. I need to get her to the range so she can try out a few things and figure out what she wants. Hard to find time with 2 little ones to chase around. I've been unable to convince her to go ahead and take the class using one of my pistols. I'm sure she'd have no problem with the shooting portion.

Big South Fork. http://www.nps.gov/biso/index.htm

What they said. Keep it concealed and you'll be fine. Traffic will be horrible most everywhere on the weekends, be prepared for that. If you're sight seeing, please use the pull-offs and let folks pass. Cades Cove is closed to vehicles on saturday and wednesday mornings until 10am. Lots of trails are closed due to storm damage. I've watched people hold their toddlers out the car window to see the mama bear and her cubs. Interestingly, I've hiked in the park for many years. I'd never seen a bear outside of the cove before this year. We saw a mama and two cubs off the Rainbow Falls trail 2 months ago and a solitary bear near Grotto Falls a couple weeks ago.

Friend has the RAMI .40 and loves it. I believe it's the decocker version. He carries it IWB and it's never had any problems I'm aware of.

I think there's 2 different goals with removing cosmoline. The first goal is to simple remove enough so that the gun will function and not get you greasy when you shoot it. The second goal is more akin to refinishing the wood and detailing all the metal parts to make it "pretty" again. I've got one that's still pretty greasy and needs the paper towel/plastic bag treatment. I've got another that's received the full refinish (bought that way). Just depends on what you want.

Cool!

The one in my neighborhood has a bicycle in the back of his truck. He parks the truck and rides the bike from house to house.

The SARCO kit is an argy, the Entreprise kit is an Imbel... two slightly different rifles, if that matter to you. I know the Argy's have some unique stuff, but can't recall what exactly at the moment. Either will work fine for your goal of a shooter, but with that in mind, I'd choose the Imbel just because it's over $100 cheaper. Keep in mind that the Entreprise kit contains nothing actually made by them. It's a Brazilian rifle in pieces that they import and resell. The Falfiles crowd has a very bad taste in their mouths for Entreprise due to a royally f-ed up group buy a while back. I have an Imbel kit and and older Entreprise type III upper receiver in a box waiting for me to find the time to put it together. Assembly does require some special tools. If you want an 18" barrel, you'll have to cut down the one in the kit and likely enlarge the gas port for proper function. 922(r ) compliance requires 7 US made parts, mine are upper (1), furniture (3), and trigger group (3). I think Coonan is one of the only making uppers with the proper profile for an Argy. Others will work, they just won't be "correct". I got the type III upper because I don't like the carry handle. Lots of folks just stick a washer in the slot to take up the space. I think someone on falfiles makes an insert that fits flush. The difference between type I and II is cosmetic, IMO. They claim less weight, but it's not enough to matter. If you're building a para with an aluminum lower maybe, but on a standard rifle its one that weighs 9 lbs or 9 lbs 6 oz....

Neat stuff. I've seen the shelf clouds preceding nasty storms on several occasions. Now I know what to call them.

Ignorance at work. It's clear that the utility owns the meter, not the homeowner. If I were the worker, I'd file charges.

I'd be real careful with it. The metal is severely pitted and I feel sure some areas will be too thin if you remove all the corrosion.

I was wondering the same thing. Dad had a cruiser with a HUGE windshield on it. Too tall for me to see over, really wide and flared out to cover the hands... it was enormous. When I rode the bike at highway speed, it created a low pressure pocket in front and the wind whipped around behind me. It was so strong that it pulled my jacket forward away from my chest and up until it hit my helmet. I could also feel it pulling my helmet up and forward. It was incredible. I told him if he needed a windshield that big, just trade the bike for a convertible.

Fairfax, VA. Just outside of DC.

Where exactly is the pain? Low (between your shoulders), mid, or high (base of skull)? Get someone to take a few pictures of you riding. Have a close look at your posture in the photos. Are you hunched over a little, head at a funny angle, ...?