peejman

  Time is at a premium these days (kids starting school and such).  Holler if you're going and I'll see if I can get a kitchen pass. 

I like watching it storm, as long as the sky doesn't turn green.  But I really wish I could sleep through them when they arrive at 3am. 

My in-laws had a Copperhead lay eggs and have lots of tiny copperhead babies... in their garage.

  13 lbs?  Dayum!   Thanks for the offer, I'd love to shoot it... if I ever get to a range again... :-\

Kewl!   Honestly, I'd never even heard of these before now.   My google-fu tells me parts kits are pretty cheap.  Receivers on the other hand... not so much.  I see unfinished receivers.  Is that what you used?  How much work to finish it?

  Check out Hamburger Hill.   And speaking of 'nam movies...   Here's an old school game for any college students listening in...   Watch Full Metal Jacket with friends and booze.  Level 1:  Take a drink every time Gunny says F__k.   Level 2: Take a drink every time anyone says F__k.  If you're still conscious at the end of the movie, you win!  I never won. 

:taunt: Now get on with it. One more thing...

Congrats!  Dig the eagle!

I'll add a few of these to my netflix list.  Most of my favorites are already listed above with the exception of Kelly's Hero's. 

Ducts in the crawl space should be insulated.  That should fix the condensation.  Mix up a mild bleach solution and spray all the mildew.  You can also try closing up all the vents.  When it's very humid outside the vents may adding to the humidity in the crawlspace.     Otherwise, the big thing is drainage outside the house.  Make sure all downspouts run away from the house.  No puddles or soggy spots next to it.     If that doesn't fix it you can seal it up and effectively make it a conditioned space, but that's not cheap.   http://epa.gov/iaplus01/technical/moisture/1_4.html

:popcorn:

A programmable thermostat may help with the short cycling issues.  Some t-stats have a setting for how many cycles per hour are allowed or a min number of minutes between cycles.  I think mine has a setting of 10, 20, or 30 minutes min between cycles.   Or it may have an adjustment for the amount of temp change before it turns on...   say the setting is 72 deg.  It may be turning the A/C on when it hits 73 deg.  Perhaps you can increase that to 75 deg so it'll have to run longer to reach the set temp.    Either of those may help reduce the cycle frequency. 

Love that scene.  I recall noting how slow and deliberate his is.  The other guys are trying to be fast and run and shoot all the same time, and aren't hitting anything.  He's just standing there, taking his time, aiming, and getting hits. 

I'm also quite blind without my contact, though not quite as bad as Spots.  I also keep several spare pair of contacts and intentionally pick frames for my glasses that are fairly rugged.  My current glasses are Z87 rated safety glasses.    If you've got reasonably good teeth, just brushing and flossing daily should keep them in good shape for quite a while.  I bet we all know one or two people who are dentist-phobic and rarely ever go. 

Dennis reminds me of another thing.... check the condensate drain on your A/C unit.  When it's running, there should be a small trickle of water coming out (more than just a drip).  If it drains onto the ground, there should be a sizable wet spot.  It's possible the condensate drain is clogged and the condensation is building up in the heat exchanger.    If it's clogged, you can flush it out with compressed air, pipe snake, water hose, etc.  That can get messy so if your unit is inside, just be aware of that.  Once the drain line is clear, it might be a good idea to pull some panels off to expose the coils and make sure they're not molded.  If so, spray a light bleach solution on them.  The mold should fade pretty quickly, then rinse with water.  The bleach will eat the aluminum if not rinsed off.    You can also scrub it with some soap & water or simple green and a soft bristle brush.  The last resort is the "coil cleaner" stuff you find at Lowes, which is just concentrated sodium hydroxide (soap).  It also must be rinsed off thoroughly.  If it's outside, you can use a pressure washer but be careful, the big gas powered washers have enough pressure to damage the coils. 

  I know, just pokin' at ya.  If you decide you're tired of that big ugly thing cluttering up your safe, I've got room in mine.  :)

    Turn the air handler on, get down there and crawl over every inch of it that's accessible.  You can just listen/feel for leaks or get a smoke/incense stick and watch for it to blow the smoke around.    You can do the same thing with the windows and doors (though it typically works better when it's cold).  Run the smoke stick around every window and door.    And remember, "duct" tape is a misnomer.... don't use it on duct work.   It dries out and falls apart much too quickly.  Use a good quality foil tape. 

    Clean a FAL?  Every 10 rounds?  :rofl:   Look up the legend of "ol dirty" on falfiles.  Last I read it was beyond 15k rounds without cleaning.  If I recall, the first thing they did was throw it (literally) in a mud puddle. 

Do you have a crawl space?  If so, put a vapor barrier down over the dirt (6 mil plastic sheet).  While you're down there, check the duct work for holes/leaks.    If you're on a slab, the vapor barrier that should be in the floor could be missing or damaged.   If you've got an unfinished basement, are the walls damp to the touch?  They may need sealing.   Do you have drainage issues around the house?  When it rains, do you get standing water or really soggy spots anywhere near the house?   By "running the fan", do you mean ceiling fan or HVAC air handler?  Running the air handler when the A/C isn't running in the summer will increase the humidity in the house.  If humidity is a problem, leave the switch on the thermostat set to "auto" rather than "on".    It's possible your house wasn't constructed with the tyvex house wrap vapor barrier stuff on the outside walls.  That could allow moisture into the house.    It's possible you have very old, or low quality, or simply leaky windows that are allowing a lot of moisture in.    If you have a chimney and the damper doesn't seal very well, that could be allowing moisture in.    It's possible you have some other large air leak in the house, there's ways to check for that. 

Good information, thanks.

A coworker brought a 105mm she'll casing back from the UK in his luggage and was never asked about it. The smell of cordite was obvious in it. If the brass is deprimed and clean, I don't see an issue. It's just metal at that point. But I'd review the ITAR regs first.

Welcome!

Sweet. I like the first one as well. Very nice indeed.

Rule #2 .... The double tap.

Clear it up and go shoot it. There's a handful of typical problems that may arise, but they're usually pretty easy to diagnose and fix.