peejman

Your biggest issue is likely to be noise complaints from the neighbors.

Check this out... https://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/rare-sale-of-200-wwii-era-military-vehicles-offers-tanks-for-the-memories-135659950.html How about a SCUD? Anyone wanna loan me a couple million? I'll gladly repay it $1/day for the next couple million days. :)

What do you mean by "heat treat"? As for the nicks... I'd mask off the lettering with some foil tape and go at them gently with Cratex stones or fine sand paper. I'm not sure you'll be able to fully remove them, but you should be able to blend them in so they're a lot less noticeable, particularly after being painted. They're so small that I don't think a filler like Bondo would be effective.

I've never traded with guitar center, but a coworker has a couple times.  He got one screaming deal on an amp (Mesa triple-rec) once, but otherwise the deals have been average IMO.  Trading with them is like trading anywhere else... If they want what you got, you'll get a good deal.  If there's 1000 others just like what you have, you won't. 

Neither he nor mom called 911? Even after the guy was in the house?!?!

It's an amp-hours thing.  1.2 amps x 7.5 hrs = 9 amp-hrs.  Using the 4 amp setting on your charger... 9/4 = 2.25 hrs.      Don't let it run on automatic, it'll start with it's 40 amp output and that'll cook the battery in a hurry.  Manually select the 4 amp setting.  Turn it on and leave it for 2 hrs.  Monitor the battery and make sure it's not getting too hot.  Set up a small fan and blow some air across it.  It'll get warm, but if it gets hot to the touch disconnect it.  Once the 2 hrs has passed, disconnect it and let the battery cool off.  Check the battery voltage, it should be 10-14V.  Reconnect the charger in auto float charging mode and let it do it's thing until it's fully charged.    Oh... and put the battery in a bucket or something just it case it cracks open and leaks.    And yes, I also recommend the little battery tenders. I have a battery tender jr. and it works great.

The FAL is likely more reliable than a Saiga.... it's got an easily adjustable gas system for that specific reason. Check out "the legend of ol' dirty".... built a FAL, tossed it in the swamp (literally), drained the water out, and started shooting. 16,000 rounds and several years later it still works and has never been cleaned. http://www.falfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68486

Yes, the Barber museum is a must see.

You realize that an M1A is basically a Garand with a detachable box magazine, right?

You said "last battle rifle"....  :rofl:     There is no "last", there is only "next". 

I've been tempted to do that, but haven't due to fear of them getting my IP address.  Seems like any sort of response would open the flood gates. 

That's a Yugo and it looks to be in pretty good shape. Nice.

Check the sticky in the classifieds

    Agreed.  I have a P3AT and I fire it enough to convince myself that it still works and I can still hit the target from 10 ft away, then I put it away.  I've got a cut-down Hogue slip-on grip on mine and it helps immensely, but it's still not fun particularly fun to shoot a lot. 

You might shoot a PM to Mark @ Sea.  He had several. 

Be happy with the pile of dirt. The used RR ties are typically rotten and on the verge of falling apart.

Nice! I need a real camera.

I did that too. Spent an hour checking and rechecking every safety switch on the stupid thing. Turned out I was the stupid one.

What misinformation? Did the op say he was a cop? Licensed security officer? Hunting/camping/fishing on his own property? The implication of the post is clearly (at least to me) related to carrying a loaded handgun, which is quite different from carrying an unloaded firearm.

Beltman. Something like 8 years of daily wear and it's still great.

Everything they said.... screw extractor, slot it with a dremel, impact driver, drill the head out, penetrating oil... all of those work.     But there's the trick....   Japanese cars don't use normal Phillips head screws, they use JIS spec screws.  A standard Phillips head screwdriver doesn't fit them properly which results in stripped heads.  You need a set of JIS spec screwdrivers.  I've learned that many times while working on Japanese motorcycles.   http://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU

    It's a pain.  Title searches, contact info for the previous owner, affidavits, ....   Unless you just really, REALLY want that bike... I'd pass. 

A fool and his money are soon parted.    As others have said, prices are as high as the market will bear.  There's 2 balance points for a business, one with low prices and high volume and another with high prices and low volume. Some like one way more than another.    I have a limited budget and consider myself a "value" shopper.  I don't mind paying a higher price if I think it's worthwhile.  But I won't knowingly be gouged either. 

    Ah.  Hence it passing through the eyelet at the top of the pic that I just now noticed...    Thanky.  :)

Forgive my ignorance...  Is the rod taped to the file just there as something to hold so you can use the full length of the file?