Patton

I have never shot a 938 but I have manhandled them on a few occasions. Some people like the triggers, I found it a little stiff. The slide was easy to rack but, if the safety is on you can not rack the slide unless the hammer is pulled back, this caught me by suprise. It is kind of hard to tell if the safety is on or off. Something else, the gun can fire from the half cocked position with the safety on, it's not exactly easy to tell if it is half cocked or forward. The magazine is not as easy to release and change as many other guns. Other than that the sights are good, it is about the same size as a shield and they say they shoot very nice.

I think Glock sights are about the only ones they do, just because so many others are more difficult. They wouldn't do Springfield XD sights. I went in and bought $100 of holsters and mags and they put my sights that I had bought somewhere else on for free. They put $60 factory Glock night sights on for free so there is no way they would charge more than that.

I love k frames and didn't know this?

Fugates in Calhoun, they are closed Saturday afternoons, and all day on Wednesday. It is a nice range and it is cheap.

If you say that you found research of their only being 350 I believe you, but it sure seems like I see them a lot. In fact Quick Cash pawn in Rossville has had two in the last two years.

While I enjoy coffee from a French press it is actually bad for your health. If you are otherwise young and healthy you do not have too much to worry. My FIL drank coffee from a French press for years, the doctor is pretty sure it lead to him having a stroke. When you press coffee you release cafestol that otherwise aren't released when filtering, cafestol stimulates the production of LDL, bad colestrol, in your body.

Great gun and a great price, but that is a heavy BUG. There is one thing that you need to be cautious of and that is the ejector rod. If you ever start doing emergency reloads or practicing them beware of the flimsy ejector rods, they can bend.

Those are more common than you would think.

The PM9 is a little smaller, just enough to see a difference and feel a difference.

You are not alone, I made the exact same decision.

Post a link, I only found this one but it doesn't have the folding grip. http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/cPath/21_344/products_id/51205/NAA+Mini-Revolver+22LR22Mag+Combo+1-58%22

Normally magnums do need barrel length to gain oomph but 22mag travels at 300-400 more FPS than many of the same weight 22lr in the mini's.

I am on my second one, I only regret not getting a 15/8" barrel. The NAA guns are superb quality with unbelievable accuracy for what they are. They conceal when nothing else will, still about half the size of a LCP.

I believe that it was air escape, such as not utilizing the pcv valve, it ran great but triggered the light. These cities that do emissions testing will not test if the check engine light is on, even though it had nothing to do with air pollutants from the tailpipe.

While I think Hondas are better than your average make, they do have their problems. Their transmissions have serious problems and are apparently made of glass. We had a 1998 Accord v-6 that a mechanic at Honda told us was the worst transmission ever made and ever put in a vehicle. Ironically, it still felt strong when we traded it in at 125k, during this time my mother's 2001 Civic had to have a new transmission at 100k and my cousins Civic at 90k. My biggest mechanical compliant on the Accord was that it ate tires like candy because it would not hold an alignment. Another serious issue was a check engine light that was on because of a TSB involving a bad gasket but they wouldn't fix because it was out if warranty. I have never heard of a manufacturer that issued a TSB but would only fix it if in warranty. Truthfully though it never mattered because I never lived anywhere that required emissions while we had that vehicle. I also felt that on that vehicle the clear coat and the paint was bad, the vehicle had been very well cared for but the paint was terrible.

Factory Glock 40S&W strikers are microscopically longer and will help with those weak primer strikes.

There is about 100 different approaches to cleverly buying a car. The majority of the time you are better off selling private party instead of trading but not always, when you trade you only pay tax on the trade difference. I have twice gotten the real money value for my trade or more when trading as opposed to the amount I was attempting to achieve private party sale. Cars over about $7500 are hard to sale private party no matter how hot of a deal it is. If you are going to trade never tell them, wait until you have gotten your best price, and say well, "For me to do this deal today I would need to trade, I have my current vehicle on a sale lot right now. Let me go and bring it here for you to appraise". This is throwing a trade in last minute and it pisses the **** out of dealers, they call it a "parachuted in trade".  One of the biggest ways for you to save money is to go to your credit union and get approved for what you think you will end up spending THAT SAME DAY.  Then you make your fourth, fifth, or tenth trip back to the dealership to close the deal.  This whole time you have landed hints that you are going to allow the dealership to set up your financing, only you end up taking your buyers slip out the door to get a check from your credit union. What happens here is the dealership has cut the price off of the front end of the deal with anticipation to making significant profit on the back end of the deal. Only once you get into the F&I box do you break it to them you are not allowing them to finance. Dealerships make most of their money in the finance office and not out on the sales floor.  Example: I sold a Ford Contour in 2000 that my dealership was buried in, we had ended up with almost $14k in a $10k car.  I ended up selling the car for about $10k out on the sales floor.  I had an extended warranty, credit life, paint protection, and a $400 payment sold before they made it into the F&I box.  The back end of the deal exceeded the $4k difference, if the guy was smart he would have not bought the extra crap and set up financing on his own.  What I am getting at is we gave the car away knowing we would make it up on the back end of the deal.  Oh, and why I am thinking about it, NEVER tell a dealer that you are paying cash! People that called and asked the bottom dollar were my favorite, all you have to do is throw a price and see if they bite, it saves the salesman a lot of time. This also allows me to only pick customers that I can make money. If I have two customers one ask price I give them the price I want to sale for.  Give me another customer I show them the car and work a price, if they don't like it I work with it and I have so much time invested I do not want to walk away now.  This is especially true when I have spent days working these people and I feel it is almost completed.  Hindsight, I wished I could have just thrown a price earlier and hoped that they bit, instead I waisted time and ended up giving a car away just to get something.  These people are buying off price and not off the car.  You should pick the car you want and bug the hell out of them to get the rights price. I will take an easy sale over one I have to waist all day or several days with. The time that you ask a best price is the time immediately before going to another dealer and saying you have to beat this price, use this as a last resort. The reason is because I have known one or two people that the first price the sales manager came back with was a cheaper price than what they had on the other dealers price sheet.  True Car and USAA's Car Buying Service have changed the market and are worth using.  I also recommend trying to buy your car the last Saturday of the month or even  better is the week after Christmas before the new year.  Not always but more often than not you are trying to squeeze in another unit before the sales calendar closes. The reason, most programs pay twice as much when you sell 12 cars a month than if you only sold 10. Also,all the managers get anxious to sale more at the end of the oth to justify there jobs and bonuses.  I have actually seen a deal offered on the 30th of the month not be honored on the 1st of the next month.

Thanks, I didn't know of the 2011 update.

Edited It does appear that over a certain length now can have a vertical grip. This is a recent change.

No issues with going over 26" but unless the barrel is over 16" you do not want to put a vertical fore grip onto it.

There is nothing wrong with either one of those, my only complaint on my p11 was it was too close to the size of my G26 at the time which I would always carry instead.

Over 26" it would be a rifle without a stock and not be an issue. YOu are getting me confused, what are you wanting? It would have to be a 16" barrel or longer to put a vertical grip on it without an AOW. The stock at this point wouldn't matter unless under 26". The AOW is $200 to build and register but $5 to transfer. The SBR is $200 transfer or registration for you to build AFTER you are holding the form.

Having been a car salesman and eventually marrying a former car saleswoman, that guy would have gotten his ass lite into by his sales manager. He should always smile and say oh yeah. People will buy a car from a salesman who they think is impressed by them and their car theories, possibly overpaying. There is a saying in the buisness, "Stay stupid". Never try to educate a buyer, you don't have time and they won't believe you. If you get a feeling that they like your particualr car for a particular reason go along with it. My wife always said to make money all she had to do was show cars, worthless talking just loses you money. Congratulations, it is hard to go wrong with a Honda, a Subaru, a Tacoma, or a Wrangler, they all hold value and are easy to get rid of.

To further clarify something, without getting a tax stamp you can not turn a rifle into a pistol. A Pistol can have a stock as long as it is 16" plus barrel and over 26". A SBR is different from an AOW, the AOW was neither built as a rifle or shotgun such as a vertical grip on a non stocked 12" barrel.

As far as rifles go since we are talking AR's, do not put a stock on it unless you put a 16" plus barrel on it. All of this is assuming you have a lower that's a "pistol" lower. The recent exception is that arm brace by Sig.