lsp408

Cool. Thanks

Where did you get that $329 cheap?

Thanks for the advise. I will for sure take my time to do it.

The cam not clear the sear. I didn't look at the video before I try. So now after some youtube video, I am ready to give it a try

Cool

Thanks for the replies. I'll try to find some youtube video and see if this is something I want to mess with

Well, new to 1911 world. Just got me a sr1911 and ordered a Novak ambi safety from ruger website. Trying to put that safety in and it did not fit at all. Is this common thing with 1911 world? Everything requires fitting and machining?

I use Troy claymore muzzle brake. It cost $60

Yes. It is .223/5.56. I just couldn't believe that only few hundred rounds and buffer spring already worn out? I am looking into getting some h2 or 3 buffer and maybe some blue or red springs

So I should leave it alone while the plastic plug on the buffer end gets beat up? Mine is 10.5 barrel and m16 bcg. As far as buffer and spring go, they are stock.

After few hundred rounds of 223, I can see the plastic part of buffer starting to get mushroom head and also can see bottom of buffer tube have mark from buffer bottom out. Instead of adjust gas block, can I put heavier buffer to reduce the impact of buffer against the tube?

Saved that pie diagram. Thanks

Since mine is left handed pistol, I should be expecting ejection around 9:00 and down(maybe 8 or 7)? And if my shell eject 10 or 11, I will need heavier buffer?

Thanks for all the replies. I just feel my 10.5 barrel ar kicks quite bit. I guess I need to shoot more and go from there. Btw, how will I know if the buffer is bottom out in the tube? Will the end of buffer get beat up? If it's bottom out, will it cause any damage to other component?

So I have heard if your gun kicks hard, increase the buffer spring and weight If you use m16 bolt, increase the spring rate and buffer weight. Any above statement true? What is the guideline here?