Lumber_Jack

I stand corrected. I was unaware such a rail existed. To the OP you just need to decide what look you want and how the money factors in. If you choose to remove the flash hider I would have a gunsmith do it. I would take the lower to a trusted family member for safe keeping, configure the upper as I wanted it, then have the gunsmith re-pin the hider. Then retrieve the lower.

[quote name='Reservoir Dog' timestamp='1353862436' post='850450'] That depends on the rail system. Samson and Daniel Defense make nice free-float systems that will mount without the need to remove the flash hider or FSB, and i am sure there are others out there. I would shop around for one of those, and see if they fit your needs. Removing a pinned and welded muzzle device is a major pain in the ass, particularly if the weld is over the pin hole (which most of what I have seen). The pin would probably have to be drilled out with a drill press.[/quote] Well technically if it attaches to the FSB it's not a free float. Yes you can add a two piece rail and thy would be much simpler, but it wouldn't be a free float.

[quote name='J.boyette' timestamp='1353815549' post='850304']Why do you have to remove it? John[/quote] To remove the gas tube and barrel nut. I'm assuming he wants a free float. Some have proprietary barrel nuts and unless there is already a low pro gas block, you can't get the forearm over the existing gas block.

If anyone is concerned with the ballistics I can tell you there were two quarter sized holes in both lungs and a half dollar size exit hole that took out an entire chunk of rib bone. I do think I will try some heavier bullets next time and see if there is a difference. I would like to try some 125 noslers or 208 Amax

Shot this one this afternoon with my new 300BLK AR Pistol. I'm at home in WV, lots of opportunities to shoot does here, very over populated, so I decided to put some meat in the freezer. [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/B62532A7-79C0-44D5-B792-0ADF460B573F-3294-000000EAFA877F1B.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/5C95FA17-D053-40A1-98DC-CFEBE3A75E91-525-0000001761B17A22.jpg[/IMG] She was a pretty good size doe. When I dropped her off at the processor she was as big as some of the bucks in there.

[quote name='Erik88' timestamp='1353800353' post='850179'] I have a hard time believing any of this. All of the things you mentioned seem like they would add more work to product by making them "different", which should raise the price.[/quote] Yep just like Walmart guns are made cheaper. It would cost way more to manufacture special items.

And the build comes full circle. About 40 yards, used 110gr Zmax. She ran about 50 yrds and piled up. [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/B62532A7-79C0-44D5-B792-0ADF460B573F-3294-000000EAFA877F1B.jpg[/IMG]

Welcome glad to have you. Can't see any reason why you would offend anyone. As long as you're respectful all people are welcome here.

[quote name='Dolomite_supafly' timestamp='1353709574' post='849871']Looks great. What scope is that? I can see it is a Barska Did you do any adjusting of the gas block? I have my Paladin and I am not 100% sure I like it. I am thinking about going to a standard adjustable block and make a custom adjustment screw. The only thing keeping me from doing it is I milled out access in my float tube for the Paladin. If I change gas blocks that means the float tube modification was done for nothing. Dolomite[/quote] This is the scope Barska 1.5-4.5x20mm, mill dot, first focal plane. http://www.opticsplanet.com/barska-1-5-4-5x20-ir-tactical-riflescope-ac10770.html I set the gas block 3 full turns out from closed, and both functioned great. The last round of subsonic didn't get picked up out of the mag, but the first 19 did. So I'm not sure what caused that.

Well here's the goods. This is my Dad shooting at his local club. http://youtu.be/aJXYlvuX62Y Here is the first 3 shot group with 110gr VMax at 50yds the flyers are all just getting the scope dialed in. [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/B9AD86AE-B62C-447F-8F3D-9A859FE76191-19290-0000052658CEAC76.jpg[/IMG] Then I switched to 220gr Remington Groups 1,2,3 are figuring holdover after zeroing for 110gr. Group 4 was the last concentrated attempt at accuracy. [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/0FF25429-0C41-46A9-A226-05B807B08075-19290-0000052780D083F8.jpg[/IMG]

Well I fired a few rounds for a function test. 3 rounds of 110gr VMax and 3 Rounds of 220 gr Remington. All cycled fine, not sure if the subs will lock the bolt back as the mags were full. [quote name='jcoosi' timestamp='1353686614' post='849787']How is the barska optic olding up?[/quote] Well I don't really know yet. The glass is clear, but I think the question is will it hold zero. I bought the scope and mount for $80. So if it won't hold true I'll just move it to my 10/22 and get something else for the 300. I'll update with how it works.

[quote name='Dolomite_supafly' timestamp='1353671531' post='849706']Did you guys use a roll pin punch? They have a tit on the end of the punch, to keep the roll pin centered, and a square shoulder, to keep the roll pin from flaring out. I generally don't use then but they are very handy for those tough ones. Dolomite[/quote] I did use a roll pin punch. It took securing the gas block in a vise and lining up the punch and pin, and then striking the punch quick an hard to get the pin started. The as I said it got about 90% and then wouldn't go anymore. The shoulder of the punch started flaring the pin, so I quit.

[quote name='OhShoot' timestamp='1353629913' post='849569'] Surarez is a TGO Authorized Vendor, via Randy Harris (Cruel Hand Luke). - OS[/quote] That's what I thought. I won't hold his actions against Randy, as I've heard really good things about him and his courses.

Doesn't his company advertise course on this forum all the time?

[quote name='nysos' timestamp='1353605586' post='849485']I wonder if those gas tube roll pins we had were out of spec a little bit because I had a hell of a time getting mine in as well. I got it about 75% through and it got stuck and it actually flared out ont he other side where the punch was. The gas tube is isn't going anywhere though - it is solid, but my OCD side is going to make me get another roll pin and have to replace it. I thought it might have been my gas block, but considering we both had different gas blocks but the same roll pins.....BTW what bcg did you end up getting, core15?[/quote] I figured there was an issue once I started. I don't know if they were out of spec or not, I've heard others saying they had a hard time with that step regardless of roll pin source. I took a pair of pliers and mashed the end together as much as I could just to get it started. I got it about 90% through and then, like you, it just flared the end. I just put the BCG out of my Rock River it now. I'll buy one when I get a few spare bucks

[quote name='Dolomite_supafly' timestamp='1353588830' post='849391']Can you measure the ID of the free float tube? And if you want pick up some 220 SMK's and come on out. I will supply the rest of the components to make sure it is running right. We can also shoot across the chronograph to get velocities. That way you can figure out drop tables and such. Measure the OAL without the KX3 and if it is over 26" then you can legally add a vertical foregrip, if that is something you like. Dolomite[/quote] The best I can get with a tape measure is 1.75" inside diameter. It may be slightly less, I'll measure with calipers when I get home. I'm gonna shoot some 110vmax and Remington 220gr to see how that functions. But I will definitely get some 220 SMKs and come by. I'll get with ya next week and see when is best. Appreciate it for sure.

[quote name='StorminMormon' timestamp='1353557167' post='849353']Correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't an AFG would turn your pistol into an illegal SBR?[/quote] No, the ATF has classified the AFG as a hand stop and is not illegal. Also if you AR measures 26" from end to end without flash hider it's consider a "firearm" not a "pistol" and you can use a vertical grip. There are corresponding ATF letters to confirm I'm just to lazy to look them up

[quote name='sigbrown1297' timestamp='1353470411' post='849019']how soon after the kill do you have to field dress it?[/quote] Depends on the outside temp, but the sooner the better. The high temp innards that are now dead can decay and spoil the meat, not to mention there is always a chance you have nicked the stomach or bowel and that needs cleaned out quickly. I am of the camp that I field dress as soon as I get to the deer. Now of you have an ATV and want to transport the deer to an easier place that's perfectly fine. The warmer it is outside the more urgent field dressing becomes.

I was in a rush earlier and didn't have time to add some text. The upper assembly went pretty smoothly. The barrel wouldn't go in the upper, so I put the barrel in the freezer for a couple hours and boiled some water and soaked the upper. Applied a little moly bearing grease to the barrel extension and it slid together nicely. Still a snug fit, but that's good. The only hang up I had was getting the gas tube roll pin started in the gas block. I nearly had an aneurism getting that thing in there. But alas with the gad block in a vise and a little finagling I got the pin all the way in. The only additions I want to add right now are a Magpul ASAP front sling adapter, and maybe an AFG, but not sure yet. And probably some backup irons. A couple more pics with some better light. [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/866D81E7-D53E-46A1-9195-6E44F40A147A-12495-00000357D57EB065.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/5DA8F080-F2DB-4D0E-9C1F-88F010A79A79-12495-0000035806F810C9.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/FD5FDBA6-9373-4C2C-BB22-1600C6B34753-12495-0000035833E1E290.jpg[/IMG] Next post will be of function an maybe a little accuracy check.

[quote name='nysos' timestamp='1353535230' post='849246']Lookin nice and clean, when do you think you will get to shoot it?[/quote] Hopefully....tomorrow

Assembly pics [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/53FDB033-2DE7-4435-8EA4-DE0A5766225E-11633-0000031DB11F3C52.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/80AD5FB0-6AFA-4D28-B3B4-DBB27E718AEA-11633-0000031DD46F549D.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i680.photobucket.com/albums/vv166/owensnj/1C62390E-4DBB-407F-9110-A4A3F71081FC-11633-0000031DEB2BDF4D.jpg[/IMG]

My mother-in-law just bought an indoor electric turkey fryer....we'll see how this goes.

[quote name='nysos' timestamp='1353429358' post='848762']I put a mark with a pencil or a market on the gas block where the hole is lined up, and put a mark on the barrel as well. That way You just line up the marks on your gas block/barrel.[/quote] This, make sure you pencil lines are straight and perpendicular to the respective holes and then you should be good to go.

I've had nerve damage in my lower back. Never thought it would be right again. But with nerves it take a long time. My dr told me 18-24 months to determine full recovery or partial disability. I'm 1 year and 2 months from my surgery and I still have muscle spasms in my calf and some nerve pain...:BUT, it's getting better. Slowly but surely those nerves heal and you regain strength and mobility. Have faith, work hard and persevere. We'll be praying for ya man.

[quote name='Capbyrd' timestamp='1353376881' post='848550']Yes. But negligibly. It's a small increase. But basically, the suppressor still fills up and acts as a barrel extension giving a slight increase in velocity. Integrals are different as they often have porting to bleed a projectile down to subsonic velocities but that's the exception.[/quote] This, more technically accurate.