LngRngShtr

Hits count.   and a New York reload works well   so no I don't feel under gunned when I'm "wheel gunning""   my 6" 586 or a 4" model 10 S&W will handle faster than a lot of the semi autos I own and point better so it is all trade offs.   John

Built it for 3 gun got the lower 2 years ago as an anniversary present, Finished it up Jan. 22nd. the day we got "the news" Folks at SAMSON sent me a set of rail covers after I asked one of their shooters how they were made So it is my Tribute to the fighting spirit of my wife, and any other women out there fighting the good fight John Specs : 18" BHW Rifle length gas system JP Cooley Comp. Rainier arms SAMSON rail YHM gas block,scope riser,bipod adapter CORE-15 BCG, Aero Upper ,DSArms lower Magpul ACS,trigger guard,MOE grip PWS Enhanced Buffer tube Tasco 4x16 scope and Simmons RDS on rail section that's a 20 and 30 clamped together 20 in the mag well and 30 up the side of the receiver

if Orange County Choppers ever started a theme bike and gun build it would fit with the P-51 Bike they built

Start reloading,..   168 or a 173 SMK with IMR-4064 powder   heck my 147 fmj with IMR-4895 handloads (ball equiv.) outshoot surplus so almost any well built handload will improve your groups   I am sure the Gurus can tell you why the rifle is grouping horizontally   John

Emerson is making one called a Hummingbird looks really nice    TEKNA used to make a small one to keep on a key chain but havent seen one for a few years wife has mine...   Yeah probably a small swiss army that is relatively easy to replace if "Hands Of Blue,Two By Two" get exhuberant   John

I was told the design of the 1911 the hammer and sear aren't in contact when the slide closes during the firing cycle because the cycle is over before you can release the trigger and reset it, believe it was described in Bill Wilsons book he wrote back in the 80's where he advocated if you must drop the slide on a 1911 to do so with the trigger pulled back to protect the engagement surfaces stating that if you have a proper working 1911 there is no fear in it going off using this procedure and if you have seen the "Shooter Ready?" video and look closely you will see Rob Leatham doing just that.   and as to the plastic guns I am with Tim on that  because you can doesnt mean you should. why be harder on a tool than you need to? it is sort of like setting a bench plane face down vs on its side even on a wood work bench you can but you shouldn't   John

My bench operates on absolutes the words could,would,should are never mentioned in my reloading area ,you can call it OCD but it does minimize the chances of problems. The Bench isn't the place for anything other than certainty and focused attention to detail.   new brass is made on machines that wear setup by humans that can make mistakes   I always process new/range find bottleneck rifle cases as if they have been fired :   tumble(if needed) resize,check/remove primer crimp uniform flash hole set trimmer to trim to length and trim if neccessary,deburr load   John

most any dry tumbler wont get older cases clean on the insides,..usually Probably would take a wet tumbler or the wet/SS Media folks claim it does the insides really clean  never noticed a difference performance wise as far a inside goes but like the outsides nice and shiny.   John

last I checked large rifle is taller cup than a large pistol resulting in a primer depth issue either a high primer ( rifle in a pistol pocket) or a deep set ( pistol in a rifle pocket which would be dangerous )   SPP and SRP are same depth just a thicker cup in the SRP Load my .357 Mags,.40S&W and my .38 Super with the SRP   John

so an AR rifle is hard to use and aim???,..someone tell all the active duty and retired servicemen and 3 gun shooters they are endangering themselves,..   way to insult the servicemen and women AGAIN you Dumbocrat   John

OK  a Mossberg 930JM or a Versamax tactical or firebird Custom AKDAL  should work for me   or an old school Rem 1100 with a Choate tube   USAS-12 ?   John

read somewhere on a Treb site the magic ratio is projectile/counterweight 1/75-100  so a 1 oz bean would use 75-100 ozs weight.   found it  http://oaklandballistics.com/images/Build_Hinged_Trebuchet.pdf   Annnddd since we are geeking out heres the math behind it   http://www.algobeautytreb.com/trebmath35.pdf   was looking into a golf ball launching treb once..http://www.legionxxiv.org/trebuchetpage/  has some good tips at the end for tuning your flight path   John

well, a Mannlicher stock almost begs for a retro looking scope  older weaver etc.   but a red dot would probably be faster with a dueling tree or squirrel hunting   John

I resize a few casings,... measure case mouth subtract .003" by adjusting the taper crimp die after screwing it down on a resized case crimp one time only measure adjust then use a different resized case crimp measure and adjust until I get to 3 thousandths undersized    I do this for all my handgun rounds everything from .45ACP powder puff loads,.40S&W 10mm and .38 Super IPSC/USPSA hotrod rounds, .38/.357 rounds (with the exception of my S&W M-52 which is a whole different reloading animal.) .401 Herters   Some lighter loads,accuracy wise, respond to a bit of crimp to build pressure a bit before the bullet gets going take measurements and experiment to find your crimp combo if you are going for absolute accuracy   I have never used or plan to use a roll crimp, I believe taper is better due to better tension control and less bullet disruption  try pulling a few of each to see the difference  you probably will never roll crimp again.   All else fails take a reloaded round and press it into the edge of your bench if you can setback the projectile you need to readjust so you can't.   John

Emerson CQC-7  has done everything I have asked it to for the last 13 years   John

Only problem with that thinking 556or762  is that some sportsmen seem to have a "don't care as long as it doesn't affect them"   "My shotgun only holds 3 and my deer rifle holds 5 who cares about 30 shot ARs..."   I have seen enough "sportsmen" push their fellow shooters under the bus lately to not count every gun owner as an ally in this go around.   WE All need to get Political about these measures or we will be reduced to TC Encores   some "sportsmen" seem to be forgetting this.   I also believe that this kind of law would be unconstitutional 'EX POST FACTO' but then again I'm no lawyer   BTW it seems MAGPUL and their 600-700 jobs and 85 Million in Tax revenue didn't seem to slow down Denver not sure Misery would miss the average Cabellas or BassPro as DICKS would fill that gap and we have seen how wishy washy DICKS is.   John

#1MKIII  has open sights and a flush muzzle cap looks rather clubbish but I love mine someday I will get the proper 18" of "cold steel" for her.    #4 MK 1 has a short amount of barrel forward of the muzzle cap and usually has arperature sights..   I prefer the #1MKIII  very fast bolt action YOUTUBE Enfield Mad Minute they sound like MGs at one point it would be safe to say the sun never set on these rifles http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOT0EqNDbC4   I guess the next question you would need to decide is Early wartime MKIII or later WWII  #4 ? of you could just get one of each   the charger clips are the same and must be loaded correctly or you can jam them up

comparing the ballistic tables would tell you how close the .223  .308 and 7.62x39   my off the cuff answer would be no but if you know where the second crossover is for each round you would have a workable solution once you learn them. you could lay out either by computer program or graph paper the trajectories of a given zero (25m) and work the arcs to see how high at say 100,200 and when it will cross back over your LOS http://www.jbmballistics.com/cgi-bin/jbmtraj-5.1.cgi   as for the diopter sight it pretty much ghosts out and you center the front sight in the arperature, this is why I like the HK style front sight as it forms a "ring in ring" then you focus on the front sight for your final adjustment http://www.hkpro.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=127:the-diopter-sighting-system&catid=4:special-topics&Itemid=5   any other type of front sight (AR15 etc.) with ears you will have to learn where center is for the front sight but this should get you started.   John

"BDC 600 Reticle: Developed specifically for the trajectory of the .223 Rem 5.56 NATO round with 55-grain polymer tip bullet, the new BDC 600 reticle offers shooters unique open circle aiming points and hash marks from 100 to 600 yards"   Unfortunately they don't say which polymer tipped bullet ( different BCs ) or velocity ( .223 vs. 5.56 )  and then there is an issue once you find that magic combo that meets the hashes shooting well enough for you in your rifle, kind of a backwards way to do it I prefer make the accurate round and then see if you can match a BDC to it but it would change with the weather conditions also :shrug:     I looked at this and others with BDCs and came to the same conclusion as Dolomite... now to learn the MilDot way  I have been using a 4-16x variable scope set to show 12" @ 100 yds between the tips of the duplex reticle so that 6" @ 100 between the Thick side bar and the intersection of the fine crosshairs  to practice until I get an actual MilDot scope sort of a psuedo range finding method ( a 12" target takes up 1/2 of the scope area would be 200 yds away etc. ) not perfect but a start to thinking angles to find range.   this also helped take some of my math fears(never a strong math guy)  of MilDot   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S5AGsHSIsVo   John

the tool is a hinged screwdriver the large end matches slots in the barrel weights and rear sight screws the small end removes the fore end and grip screws and fits the setscrew for the block the weights screw into and also on the back of the reciever below the rear sight adjusts trigger pull weight and inside the gun adjusts the overtravel screw on the top end of the trigger.   yep they came with 2  the other should be stored in the pistol.   only thing I do not see is the shell deflector pin that fits into a hole in the grip on the ejection side about where bolt face is when locked open it is a small pin maybe 3/4" long and 1/16th" in diameter (?)  which kicks empties out at approx. 1 to 2 O'clock  and sometimes kicks one back into the action.    John   PS  if I remember correctly the first 2 digits are year of MFG. http://www.browning.com/customerservice/dategun/detail.asp?id=39

would be a very old K Frame  most have the model designation on them not sure what year S&W started that it would be IIRC on the frame where the crane fits into the frame   post some pics please   That reminds me my 19-6 PPC gun needs to be rebarreled a side effect of running .357 Mags at a steel match back in the late 80's (young and foolish) cracked the forcing cone.   148 gr HBWC and 2.7 grs. Bullseye should make that gun group like nothing else  the PPC barrels have shallow rifling so mid-range ammo is where you want to be   John

Sam1  buckshot ?  looks like clusters   this will be spun by Fienstein et. al.  to egg on support some how

if you are tumbling with walnut or corncob it will only plug up the primer pocket not reliably "scrub" it clean   tumble to clean up for inspection and to protect the dies from scratching   primer pockets can get pretty crummy before they wont take a primer I have never cleaned a pistol primer pocket and my M-1 ammo has never been cleaned either no seating or firing problems so far    but I :   tumble to clean for inspecting then lube resize then back to the tumbler to clean off lube  for trimming and primer pocket swaging ( if needed) deburring and use a small pick to clear the pockets of media  but the Universal decapper seems like a good idea and at $12.00 may be added to the setup soon   load as usual   John

Thought all the Medalists came with varnished grips, the oil finish does look very nice though.   Have had mine for 24 years now and still shoots better than I do there is an outfit out there that makes a bolt on mount for a red dot that clamps to the rib so it is easily returned to original condition if you ever feel the need to have a dot on it as drill an tap would be a travesty   love the built in dry fire option too. but the deflector pin tends to occasionally toss an empty back into the action.   John

Edwin Jagger here with Wilkinson blades  ordered bulk off amazon   and as I just keep my edges clean during the winter or a "Mark McGuire" look in the summer    100 blades should last me about 2 years   after I tried the DE I wondered why I wasted all those years and $$$ on cartridges I actually enjoy shaving now   John