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Ladies and Gentlemen I present the FRENCH TOAST ALERT SYSTEM   http://www.universalhub.com/french-toast   make sure to check the video at the bottom of the page.

how did they register an unmarked, un numbered magazine ?   I always though the gun only has one so how are they registering many ?   Tell you what  you send me a list of what it says I have and I will get back to you   only a matter of time before deer rifles become sniper rifles.

Have had one of these since 1990 or so,  back when it came in a nylon case  yep it makes things scary, scary sharp  even scissors and fish hooks and my Emerson CQC-7 with the half serrated blade   if it has a edge you can sharpen it with this

From CASTBOOLITS : Why Car Batteries Are Dangerous The warnings about smelting automotive batteries to recover the lead they contain needs a bit of explanation. Doing so really does have the potential to harm or even kill you and here is why. Maintenance free/low maintenance batteries use calcium metal-doped lead to catalyze the hydrogen gas generated from water electrolysis back into water. That is what makes the batteries low maintenance or maintenance free, you don't need to add water to the cells as often like in the old days. When the battery lead is melted down there is enough sulfuric acid from residual electrolyte trapped in the lead dioxide and lead framework of the battery plates to react with the small amount of calcium metal in the lead alloy. Normally when sulfuric acid (or water) gets in contact with calcium metal it undergoes a rather vigorous reaction that generates hydrogen gas. In and of itself this is no big deal, hydrogen is a simple non-toxic asphyxiant that is also flammable. But the lead alloy used in batteries also contains a bit of antimony and even arsenic to help harden and strengthen the lead to withstand the vibration and general knocking-about batteries have to withstand in order to survive normal automotive use. When hydrogen comes in contact with arsenic and antimony, or compounds of these two elements, the hydrogen reacts to form ammonia analogues called arsine and stibine, AsH3 and SbH3. Both of these are heavy gases and both have the similar characteristic odors of rotting fish. In World War One the Germans experimented with these, along with phosphine, another rotting-fish-smelling gaseous ammonia analogue with formula PH3, as war gases. As such they were highly effective since they are deadly in amounts too small to easily detect. In even smaller amounts that are too small to immediately kill they cause rather painful lung damage that often eventually leads to emphysema and lung cancer. So, leave smelting car batteries or using lead smelted from them to professional recyclers. Many folks including myself have successfully smelted batteries and lived to tell about it, but the risk is just too great to mess with the stuff. rl371

I cant remember the last time I cleaned my .22 LR barrels other than when I first get them   Target velocity .22LR are so soft and lubed all you really need to do is keep the chamber and crown clean  My Medalist has had thousands of rounds downrange and the barrel has been scrubbed maybe 3 times    My 10-22s same thing and they kill squirrels regularly    now, if you shoot high velocity I don't no as the electroplating would seem likelier to foul to me but I don't use them with any regularity   I am more of a clean it and shoot it guy if your barrel needs work after you buy it you are already behind the game. but if makes you feel better shoot 5 and clean a few times :2cents:   Physics kind of rules out barrel break in though  how can copper or lead really influence steel for the first 5-20-50 round break in then "settle down" and allow thousands of rounds without wearing out the rifling ? just clean and degrease it really well and keep an eye out for fouling, record round count and if you have accuracy issues say every 1800 rounds then the barrel told you to clean it every 1700 rounds then plan 25-50 to foul and settle things back into place especially if you remove the action from the stock   Benchrest shooters are very ritualistic and almost superstitious, then again I guess we all are a bit OCD when it comes to accuracy as I have certain things I do when I setup a new rifle/handgun, or load ammo  so I guess you will have to develop your own "system" as we all have if shooting a few and cleaning it a few times makes you feel you have done all that is possible to get the accuracy you are looking for then do it,remember it is your gun, ammo & mindset that work to create successful accuracy.    Just keep good notes Human memory isn't what we all remember it to be

that's is because it is a 91 not an 88    I missed out on a Sale at Havlin's they had 20" ribbed screw in choke barrels from a police contract overrun..

not sure adjustable and budget work in the same sentence this time, but yes everything except the forend slide assy, and the trigger assembly will fit the 88 but you would lose the safety.    I swapped my 500 stock out for a MESA Tactical Adapter and now can use any AR grip and stock,  at the same time I also swapped out the trigger unit from a Maverick 88 so I have a useable safety as the tang unit becomes almost unusable and the 88's is just plain a better location for the new grip angle    not sure who else makes adapter blocks these days  maybe ACE stocks might      I think MESA is about $75.00 then you need the AR parts stock, grip and buffer tube   currently use18" for around the house and 28" rib for Turkey season, until I get a 22-24" rib or cut this one down   and Brownells sells an 8 shot conversion kit which is a barrel and mag tube but usually claims out of stock

extractor and or ejector marks 1 each per firing   marks made by feeding from a box type magazine 1 mark or 2 per feeding depending on magazine   guess if you have a known 1x fired you could go by case length growth   to be absolutely sure buy virgin or factory loaded brass and start your counter anything else is truly a guess   unless I am trying to eliminate all variables I really don't get to concerned about times fired vs. case prep prior to loading  which included a bent paperclip test for incipient separation if suspected.   lower pressure cartridges last forever vs. say a .303 that is known to stretch a fair amount each firing needing care to avoid case separation.     Not sure where a Hornet would fit in but if it doesn't grow much between firings and you don't trim very often the once fired thing is more a mental hang up then a real issue affecting potential accuracy or case longevity

Step 1  Lose the Call of Duty gloves ,your grandfather didn't need them for that rifle so neither should you.   Step 2  use YouTube to find the old US Army training videos and learn to operate Mr. Garands device properly   Step 3  forget how to post to the interwebs until you have followed Steps 1 and 2 properly without fail.   Sincerely,   A. Garandowner

My .303 British look like the LEFT one but they are 180s   Email Remington and send the pic they should know for sure, but failing that  if there is a question that they are handloads I  go by my personal rule of   If I didn't reload it I don't shoot it. and break them down for components or at least reload them with a known type and weight of powder   ain't worth making your rifle a jigsaw puzzle.

What about rechambering to .30-30 Winchester ?  lower pressure more in line with a .30-40 I think  and pretty easy to reload for and a decent all around cartridge also rimmed   Also a .30-40 Krag is .308 and a 7.62x54R is .311  if by diameter you mean that the barrel is .311 you could run it as a .303 British or .303 Epps  also lower pressure vs. the 7.62x54R  and would still perform well   random thoughts,    John

if it smells ok (like new powder) and doesn't have any funny growing things   I think it was described to me as "cheesy" once   should be fine    A solvent smell is an indication the powder is still quite good. An Acid smell is a warning the powder has started to break down and nitric acid byproducts are forming from the nitrocellulose breaking down. Are they the old square metal cans? actually those might be older Some of those old cans are collectors items.   Some of my powders are older than that  and work just fine.

Moo Brew !

Well we don't know if the bullet hit something else before impact however the glass and electronics could have flexed and absorbed quite a bit of energy and if the back of the case was metal that would have helped also the hole in the glass isn't round so an angle hit and the fact the phone was essentially free hanging in his pocket acted like a sponge and absorbed the impact, not to mention the employees chest muscles also buffering the now 3"x5" flat projectile instead of a .22/.38 slug   reminds you of the old flask/ciggie case stopping a bullet in the war movies don't it ?   "Low Caliber"  ??  could we get more vague most folks I know that carry consider anything not starting in a 4   a low caliber 

http://www.atf.gov/files/publications/firearms/curios-relics/p-5300-11-firearms-curios-or-relics-list.pdf   but as with anything the LAW is subject to interpretation so....   not sure anything here would be more affordable than the CMP Garand you mentioned though, I know the S&W 41-1 surely isn't neither is my '03-A4   Hmmm my .401 Herters might be getting close to 50 yrs. old   Good Luck,.

would think case capacity would be the issue with 2400 in a 10mm with heavy bullets   Once my WSL is gone I will have to source out a powder for my 10mm but I have a few Lbs. left so it will be awhile   might have to look into a G20 as my delta elite is getting long in the tooth.   John

Bought mine from Brownells only one side engraved though   Si Vis Pacem Parabellum

3" and 6"  every 50 yds won' be very distinct difference   Just use different 12" shapes and color combinations   orange triangle of every 50 or 1 shape @ 50 2 shapes @ 150 etc.   blue square for every 100  2 squares @ 200 3 @ 300  etc.   maybe bump to 18" after 350 yds. by way of comparison the 600 yd NRA target for Hipower matches is only a 36" black circle   bright enough to see even if you get snowed on   quick range estimation and not colors found in nature so should stand out and when the buck walks out to see what 4 blue squares are   make your correction (400 yds) and fire :cool:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_66/561060_Misaligned_feed_ramps__use_dremel_.html   second to last post in thread he also says he is using a heavy buffer    sounds like you and he have a common problem   ammo reloads or factory ?

So one COULD say that the Army COULD ask for its toys back then give them to the CMP as the US Army is probably not affected by EO as written ?   So why bother writing this? other than to make it a .gov the only game in town and stuff it to independent business in the business of reimportation (SARCO, etc.) can't think of a reason...   I'll keep my M-1 greased and ready thanks  reminds me I need some more enblocs to finish filling my .50 can and belt

Back in the 90s guys were converting to Single action and using them in USPSA competition when the 745 was hard to get   good serviceable pistols  my dad bought an oversized ambi for his 745 so some custom parts were available though not sure now some 20 years later   if the accuracy disappears it usually means a frame rail has split my brothers 745 did that (many many rounds over that frame though) and S&W traded it out for an M&P .45 since they are long discontinued  he is happy   get you a shoulder rig, Ray Bans and a leisure jacket and you can "Don Johnson" it at the range  later Miami Vice episodes armed Crockett with one

No castle nut on my rifle here,   PWS buffer Tube  http://primaryweapons.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=214&idcategory=21

More dry firing will help you acclimatize to the 1911 vs. Glock  Dry firing is fine the 1911 has a robust firing mechanism do it all the time and mine hold 2 Lbs. on my .45 and just a shade over 2 Lbs. on my .38Super (USPSA race guns)          Now, letting the slide ride home on an empty chamber/no magazine that is what  will kill all that fine hand fitting of the lugs (accuracy) and hammer sear engagement due to sear bounce (crisp target trigger job) Because the round riding up the fed ramp cushions the gun as it engages the extractor and goes into battery thus avoiding those 2 points of contention.      Also if it has an over travel set screw it may be a bit tight causing the trigger pull to stack at the very end which can also possibly cause a low right dip in your case, but that usually causes trigger weight to climb erratically as the screw moves in and out some nail polish will fix that problem and give you enough time to set it before it "glues" it in place   the targets are already telling you what you are doing you just have to reverse the graphic above (make it left appropriate) and overlay it , we used to have some of these as transparencies at my old gun club for training the rookie bull's-eye shooters and helping the old salts who developed a habit. called them Problem Pinwheels in hind sight I should have bought copies when I had the chance. :slap:   In the end it is just getting used to your new bullet launching platform, they are all like women some dance fast some dance slow and others are, years later after many hours of study still mysteries :shrug:    Hope this helps,   John

measure and mark as above and a quick and dirty test to see if it is at least somewhat aligned is a quick shot of gun scrubber down the gas tube from the receiver end, while holding the upper muzzle lower than receiver,  if it runs out the muzzle you have a passageway if not you have an alignment issue   John

Nice thing about this is it will be so polarizing we will know who to watch a little closer from now on  no  more fence sitters   and the hard left will be spotlighted and monitored as they want to do with us