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nice idea,looks great    I  was just wondering would using a gas check be an option or does powder coating render them old school obsolete ?   I remember using some on really warm .357s years ago but "Dad just did it that way" but seems like a possible option to keep it all supersonic and maybe gain some FPS ..

the diagrams I have seen show no firing pin spring, therefore it would be a free floating firing pin like an M-1 Garand, AR-15, HK91 etc. and if the bolt is closed fast enough the inertia will cause a slight dimple now if it was a 1911 or something with a sprng I would be very cautious about using it and in either case a good cleaning first is called for  old lube and firing debris can cause a sluggish return on a firing pin sometimes.   I own a Mossberg 500 and cant recall a FP spring or dented primers but my AR will do so every time.   Joe45 most civilian designs have a firing pin spring but the military designs do away with it in most rifles, one more part to break and they usually run harder primers in their ammo so dimpling isn't a concern in their eyes.

Opening sequence to a Bond film....

Unless you reload your own ammo stick with 5.56/.223Rem.   I went with an 18" SPR /3 gun/varmint rifle type build myself (18" Black Hole Weaponry HBAR contour with other lighter weight components to keep weight manageable) my Dad has an M-4 clone my Brother has a 20" SS Bull barrel setup and we can't convince the others that ours is a better overall setup than the others.   that is the joy and curse of the AR platform lots of options and lots of choices and a build from the ground up can change many times before it is "finished" You really have to figure what you plan to do with it, knowing you can always build another upper or change out a component or 3 if you decide to go another direction with it, think LEGO gun add, subtract, presto changeo  modularity at it's best   .223 works for me and if it becomes a distance thing I have a couple of .30-06 rifles (M-1 Garand,1903A3) that I am very comfortable shooting at longer distances where the .223 just can't perform as well and the math is easier to figure drift and drop   .300 Blackout is great if you want to suppress and I understand and 6.5Grendel vs. 6.8SPCII debate is still going on .50 Beowulf stands alone but they are all a reloaders cartridge pretty much along with 6x223 and other wildcats  as factory offerings are limited and hard to find vs. 5.56/223 Rem    So start your sickness with an M-4 and watch the BRD (Black Rifle disease) grow in your safe..

Nice choice!  gotta love a gun that goes PING!   mine is an SA 1943 rebuilt in the 50's  still running strong   of course you know about port pressure problems with modern loads so it is an adj. gas plug,surplus or handloading for that old war horse lest you upset the Op rod.   John

fixed it for ya.     Had a Dane/Airedale mix when I was a kid  great dog

Corrosive primers are old school, I imagine the Eastern Bloc countries never saw need to change however the civilian market saw the need for and the marketability to the hunter/sportsman/competition shooter so they evolved   corrosive primers actually create Potassium Chloride residue that when dampened by humidity will set about rusting the cause was as CZ9MM noted was the use of mercury fulminate  they have since switched to lead styphnate which makes it essentially non corrosive   Generally 1955 is considered the cutoff for corrosive .45ACP and .30-06 Ball ammo. however the sniff test is always preferred you will smell a sharp chemical odor if it was corrosive and cleaned like a black powder firearm or if you have a can of old surplus bore cleaner that smells worse than the fired ammo   I have ammo I loaded back in the 80's still goes bang   and ammo cans with primers and ammo in them are a bad idea but until I find a better one that's how they will sit under my reloading bench I guess I could always use Tupperware but the old G.I. ammo can is absolutely the best storage device for durability and air tightness unfortunately it does hold pressure for awhile in a fire and loaded with any components that create pressure  not a good thing but not going to blow a house apart, the casings would split and vent by the time the rounds get hot enough to cook off the rubber seal would have melted enough that it would be the weak point and keep the pressures lower than the Hollywood version of what happens. take the seal off an ammo can and see how loose the lids become plenty of room for escaping gas so no "bomb" effect.  I would be more concerned about loaded guns in a fire...   In his book "Gunshot Wounds" Vincent Di Maio describes various experiments where ammunition was heated in ovens. He says that .22 long rifle cartridges detonate at an average of 275F, .38 Special at 290F and 12 gauge shotgun shells at 387F. The interesting thing about these furnace experiments was that in all instances the cartridge cases ruptured, but the primers did not detonate. In fact the primers were removed from some of the ruptured cases, reloaded into other brass and fired. When cartridges are placed in a fire he confirms that the most dangerous component of a cartridge is the brass, or fragments thereof that may cause eye injury or penetrate skin, but certainly there is no evidence that a cartridge that is not in a firearm can cause a mortal wound, either by action of the bullet or the brass/primer fragments. It is important to remember however that a chambered cartridge that detonates in a fire is just as dangerous as a cartridge that is fired under normal circumstances in a firearm. To get a better understanding of the behaviour of free-standing ammunition in a fire, he conducted experiments with a propane torch. A total of 202 cartridges (handgun, centerfire rifle and shotgun cartridges) were used. If the heat was applied directly to the base of a shotgun shell the primer would detonate, the powder would ignite and the shell would rupture. Any pellets that emerged were traveling too slowly to be recorded on a chronograph. In rifle and handgun cartridges where the flame was applied to the base of the cartridge the primers always detonated but the powder only ignited in half the cases and in those instances the cases did not rupture but the gas was instead vented through the primer hole. When he heated these same handgun and rifle cartridges at the front, the powder would burn and the cases would usually rupture but with few exceptions the primers did not detonate. The velocity of expelled projectiles ranged from 58 ft/s to 123 ft/s. The only exception was the .270 cartridge where the bullet velocity was 230 ft/s. Primer velocities ranged from 180 ft/s to 830 ft/s. As a side note he says that a revolver in a fire is especially dangerous because all the cartridges can cook off and be discharged such that there is a danger from projectiles. Only the bullet that came out of the barrel will have rifling marks and the ones that came from non-aligned chambers will have shear marks on them. Obviously if there is a question about the firing of a weapon and whether it was cooked off or fired intentionally they will look for a firing-pin impression on the primer of the suspect cartridge case. References: Sciuchetti G.D. Ammunition and fire. American Rifleman 144(3): 36-38, 59-60, March 1996. Cooking-Off Cartridges. NRA Illustrated Reloading Handbook. Washington, D.C.: The National Rifle Association of America. And of course Vincent Di Maio's excellent book "Gunshot Wounds - practical aspects of firearms, ballistics and forensic technics". My copy is the second edition, published by CRC Press, ISBN 0-8493-8163-0 This information can be found on pages 268-270.

Because if you run your .357s at the high end you will get primers flow and it will index hard as the flow creates a burr that drags across the recoil face or if you somehow get a little hotter than avg. you will pierce said primer and receive gas back through the action   Learned alot about this shooting .38 Supers    Load my .357s and my .40 S&W with SRPs  never a problem  and a bit of cheap insurance against primer flow.

could always get the kind that hold the barrel via the extension then it won't matter what the upper looks like   Bill Geissele makes one called a "Reaction Rod" Claims he saw it used by US Army Marksmanship unit and refined the idea,   Brownells makes one also about half the price but no flats but claims will do both ar15/ar10  Midway also offers one  just Google AR15 reaction rod.    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/barrel-tools/ar-15-m16-308-ar-barrel-extension-torque-tools-ar-15-m16-barrel-extension-torque-tool-sku080-000-637-27452-53686.aspx   also handy to hold upper for any other part of your build, hand guard,muzzle device etc.

Most Plated manufacturers will put a velocity ceiling on their bullets at less than magnum velocities   that being said I have driven plated bullets out of my 10mm at over 1250 fps without ill accuracy effects out to most IPSC distances 25yds. or so at the club I used to shoot at   not sure how they would have fared long distances though I usually shot 155 LSWCs   as far as SWC vs. RN vs. DEWC  I guess maybe there might be some yawing issues as the weight is distributed evenly vs. a rear weight bias  but as far as safely shooting throwing them downrange if the data is published and crosschecks as safe I'd try it who knows you might trip over a nice load that should hit pretty hard if you follow the large frontal area theory of hunting bullets ( think a heavy Keith style SWC they are almost a DEWC )

Stoeger Condor been killing Ducks & Geese the last 5 years now along with the occasional trip to the trap range   John

Always been taught and tell newer shooters when they ask me which one  :   get the biggest caliber you can control both accuracy and speed wise  because you will never miss fast enough to win and realistically the whole .38,9mm,.40 .45ACP debate goes out the window if you don't know where to hit your target for maximum effect to end the confrontation. (contrary to popular writings the .45 will not rip a mans arm off and spin him around)   and if you reload your ammo cost is almost a non issue, my 10mm costs almost the same as my .40 or .45 and a 9mm if I owned one wouldn't be noticeably cheaper ( I do load .38 Super and it is a touch more expensive due to using Small Rifle Primers )  and I consider carry ammo an investment not a cost.   the energy chart linked shows these calibers for the most part within 150-200 ft. lbs. of each other for .38 9 40 and 45  so the only decider actually is recoil management and capacity in my view. http://www.chuckhawks.com/handgun_power_chart.htm    I have been known to carry the following though not at the same time,  a .38 Detective Special, a Glock 23, a 1911 in .45ACP, a S&W M-10 and a .22LR    Depends on where I was going,what I was wearing and who I was with.   Grew tired of the hype by gun rags and caliber fanboys years ago, history shows alot of folks have fallen to each of these calibers so run what you can as fast and accurately as you can the energy in any of these calibers will get it done if you do that.

Mosin Nagant 44 Carbine by my estimation     http://www.mosinnagant.net/USSR/Russian-M44-Carbine.asp

Half tempted to say someone removed the bluing due to the letters being sharp, if someone refinished it that wouldn't be so sharp also the finish on the bolt looking slightly different than the receiver and barrel ( bright vs. more matted) look at some of those old west Winchesters that had worn through the bluing or an old Colt SAA  bare metal that doesn't seem to rust..   a touch of cold blue would tell you if this is the case the darkness around the ejection port looks like the front strap on my 10mm before I cold blued it   My 10mm used to be "in the white" when I raced it back in the day  you changed so often that finishing the gun didn't make sense and just handling it often and wiping it down kept it from rusting and the sides of the slide were just as shiny as that receiver.   Bluing comes off with Naval Jelly or other acidic compound a quick steel wool workout and you could get what you have there as a finish they could have decided it looked better than a ratty bluing job and baked it in oil which is another old trick to "impregnate" the steel pores with oil to resist rusting, many an old model 12 looks like this though not as even, also a coat of wax is an old trick I use on my duck gun 5 years in a blind and not a spot of rust on the bluing it would do the same for bare steel.   Looks cool from here but I can understand refinishing it if it will be living in a truck.

The short formula is simple :    for every given caliber  N+1   as I was saying the other night to a co-worker who thought 2,000 rounds was more than enough even with current difficulty in ammo supply replenishment I disagreed and pointed out :   1 trip to range per month 1 box of ammo x 12 months = 600 rounds year handgun 1 trip to trap range per month 200 rounds ammo x 12 months =2400 rounds year shotgun 1 trip to range per month 10 boxes ammo x 12 months = 2400 rounds year rifle  x how many calibers you own (or trips to the range) lets say 5 handgun 1 shotgun and 4 rifle  3000+2400+2400 = closer to 8,000 rounds yearly budget.   he could then easily see where a years "allotment" could get upwards of 15-20,000 rounds depending on how much practice or competition you have scheduled   I would submit to someone like the OP asking the "WITSHTFT" question there is a better way to invest their time and money vs. the room full of ammo and "survival food"    Such as...carbine courses, defensive pistol class, TacMedic (if you make holes you should be able to plug them as well) Cross Fit,General Aerobic Fitness,strength training etc. (can't shoot straight when you are huffing like a train) and of course everybody's favorite thing  DRY FIRING   the situation will dictate the "operational" amounts of ammo,  look at a 3 gun shooter at a major match, they look over the course of fire and adjust their belt to match the possible outcome unless you shoot the IM which case you carry all your gear in one division the entire match think they call it TROOPER  in that case see earlier listing on Cross Fit and Aerobic fitness    Duck hunters carry 20 rounds Deer hunters carry 5 a Marine overseas carries alot more Cops carry a handgun with a shotgun or rifle in the car  every person and situation is a different need and to say X number of rifle rounds and X number of pistol rounds is simplistic answer to a complex question   :cool:  Would love to chat about it more but time to go catch my CardioWeights workout then Yoga for flexibility before dry firing regimen while studying up for my TacMedic class before kayaking across the lake and back to practice LandSea Navigation and Bushcraft on a small undisclosed island while my brass from the last range session is wet tumbling.   :tinfoil: :taunt:                         :hat:                                                :hiding:

Second the Old S&W M-10  with a few speed loaders along as well. as far as shot loads not sure I'd bother with them ( effective range ?)  probably would go with a big solid loaded hot or just Cowboy it with my .401 Herters if it was me.   and make sure the horse is used to the sharp report of firing near it if you haven't already  I can see that not ending well if the animal isn't accustomed to it,having seen gun shy dogs I can't imagine hanging on if a horse decided it didn't like it.   back in the day my Dad used to load plastic capsules with buckshot pellets they were for making your on shot charges  now those loaded with something larger(6 or 7 1/2 shot)  might be worth looking into if you want bigger shot than they use in those "snake" loads (# 12 shot)   http://www.midwayusa.com/product/313962/speer-empty-shot-capsules-38-special-box-of-50

Problem is it has been signed, so once the politicians think the memory of the public is faded enough they will drag it out and hide it in a bill somewhere 20-30 years down the road

 the gap below the sight, maybe carefully bent the tang of the Eliason to bring the blade level ?   mine was a "parts gun" before I got it the GC top end was on the SS frame in the pic the frame pin holes are ovaled from the large round count so maybe it will become a .22 trainer or a carbine conversion some day.   Gold Cups aren't what they once were the Series 70 collet bushing doesn't lend itself to the premo accuracy of a fitted bushing and the series 80 lock doesn't do the trigger pull any favors either  they still shoot better than a "regular" 1911 but nothing like the older pre-70s GCs they were hand fitted   Mine cracked the bushing and jammed in the middle of a PPC match shooting light loads so a KART bushing was fitted and it still out shoots me even with 180 PF USPSA loads   Still wondering what your intended use is for the GC  the milling for a sight or a fitted bushing done well may not affect the value as much since this isn't an unfired specimen    Maybe timcalhoun can help  he is on here somewhere   John

Up to date ones and the other new one on your bench,  just to the left there on the shelf , there it is...........   "Rhodewarriors Reloading Notebook"    every setup , every session every time you open a can of powder record your load data  there are forms online to help you set up but basically   Caliber  firearm used  round count    Date   Bullet make/weight     Casing/trim length/times trimmed(rifle)    Powder/LOT # /charge weight    OAL/crimp  Primer   Purpose   Results (group size,reliability,flash/recoil etc.)   you can tab by caliber or by firearm  personal lot # (example M1917#3, M-586/Match AR153Gun)   Very important so you can see what was done and if it went right or wrong would hate to have found the "pet load" and forgot exactly what was done to get it as you change ANYTHING in a loaded round and it changes the dynamics completely     also handy if you want to experiment crimp settings or OAL for accuracy or just see if mfg of bullet makes a difference to the Results column  some guns are sensitive some not so much   My S&W M-14 is pickier about ammo than my S&W M-586  same loads different results  the 52-2 a whole different beast    easier to keep round count if you only have 1 firearm in that caliber and you see accuracy drop off at a given round count if it always drops at 600 or so for a rifle then you know about 550 or so plan a cleaning some folks plan recoil spring changes every so many rounds etc.   SIERRA LEE and LYMAN are good for me and I usually download the powder mfg. booklets    a load gets worked up for each caliber and firearm the book is a good starting point but each gun will act differently Lets say for instance a load that works great in my M1917 will "pattern" out of my Garand or my 03A3 but the Garand load will shoot OK in the A3 but be hot in the 1917 (slight flattening of primers) so the ammo boxes are marked for each rifle   a cover page with powder and primer lot #s is also a good idea as sometimes there are recalls/warnings and you can verify at a glance without digging into each caliber to see if you have any of the suspect components loaded up.   you could also record the factory ammo lot #s if you have any and perhaps chronograph results if you want to try "cloning" a load   Enjoy your new sport and this fun part of it we call reloading,   John   P.S.  only 1 component on the bench at a time keep the rest stored away you DO NOT want to mix Bullseye with WW231  or mix a rifle powder by accident  it never ends well.. same goes for leaving powder in the measure put it back in the can when you are done then gauge/box the loaded ammo   NEVER close enough  Never I think maybe...  this is a game of absolutes  when in doubt pull them out( you have invested in a bullet puller I hope) your hands aren't worth the batch of ammo that might/might not be loaded correctly either a double charge ( grenade) or a squib ( barrel obstruction )    the pressures some of these rounds operate at are in the thousands of PSI and overloads are even hotter I do not say this to scare you but make you aware of the inherent danger if you do not use proper procedures but by being focused and methodical the folks here have many,many years of experience and many thousands of rounds safely loaded and shot  ask any questions you like we all sat at a bench with a "new press in a box" at one time

not to spark a 6x45 vs. 6.5 Grendel debate but..    the .223 runs out of bullet weight at about 69-70 grains unless you load long and hand feed still 30 grains shy of the 6x45 is it that much of an advantage ? depends on what you are shooting at I guess and not sure how heavy you can go in the 6x45 before hand feeding    the 6x45 has actually set benchrest records in the sporting class back before the 6mm PPC/6mmBR cartridges made the sport theirs the 6x45 and 6mmPPC are close ballistics wise   it is also an excellent starter cartridge for those who want to try a wildcat low initial investment, low disaster possibilities, established data etc.   depending on what he wants to do with it it should serve well as long as he works within the design parameters and doesn't try and run it like a 6.5 Grendel  :tough:   I agree bigger bullets are better depending on what you are wanting to do with it  but as far as I have seen if you vary away from .223 in an AR you just have to make sure you are packing enough ammo for your trip as any other caliber is, by law of averages scarce in any group of AR shooters, and I am funny about using other folks hand loads   More info as to what the OP has planned for his platform and this caliber would be needed to help him see if the 6x45 would be his "hot ticket"   in my case my caliber lineup jumps from .223 straight to .30-06 so I do suffer a perceived lack of middle ground there but handloads help I can always download my -06 but  maybe someday I'll revisit the .243 or 6x45mm to address that slot (the .243 being about 500 fps. faster than the 6x45) either way I can reform brass to make them if I have to and I have a bit of a stockpile of .308/.223 brass so I'm set there.   I enjoy wildcats too I have a pair of Herters revolvers in .401 Herters Magnum yeah a bit of work but being Single Actions I don't lose any of that hand prepped .30-30 brass   I believe anything that gets someone out burning powder is a good thing, they can defend their choice of caliber later after the match/hunt over a good cup of coffee with friends that is all a part of this great sport   John

Just dies and a barrel for an AR  and gets you over the "Larger than .24" for hunting deer restrictions some states have and a 100 grainer would answer any deer I have seen around here or the occasional coyote.   You get a heavier bullet (75-100 gr) more energy at distance (200 ft./Lbs. @ 300 yds. approx) with less drift, better BC/ flatter trajectory and cheaper to set up and run than any of the 6.8SPC II 6.5 Grendel etc. stuff  and if you don't like it just rebarrel back to .223 and carry on no special bolts,mags etc. you would only be out a barrel and dies   I keep looking back into it as another upper for an AR  but it hasn't bit me yet. I see no real advantage for 3-gun and you have to roll your own so if you run out, you are out where as the .223 almost everyone has a box or 2 and heavier bullet means a touch more recoil but being an AR, a .30 cal comp would take care of that I bet   Stumpy  the 6x45 in a bolt gun would be something with the .243 match bullets I bet you could shoot bug-holes. sort of a .243 Lite    John

stopped at clean after every session,..    wipe down yeah but some folks are too aggressive when it comes to cleaning and believe it has to be "inspection clean" holdover from black powder days or boot camp I guess   I go for a "functional clean"  and relube  even back when I was shooting Bullseye 3 nights a week the .22 only got monthly (450-500 rnds.) wiped down bolt and breech face and muzzle then relubed slide rails and worked fine   My USPSA guns got slide off wipe down clean the comp and reassemble and lubed about every 6-7 matches (750-800 rnds.)   My M-1  well it is an M-1  wipe and relube (grease)  still holds 2" @ 100.   and as for a vigorous bore scrubbing ? only when I started to get accuracy issues. saw a Ruger MK2 that a shooter used a "Tornado" brush on and cleaned after every bullseye match  a year later the barrel looked like my Mossberg 500    Half-assed cleaning procedures probably second only to neglect/rust for destroying guns/accuracy   AMMO  it is its own microcosm  I have had a dozen or so rounds I left outside on purpose for a year in New England rain,snow,ice,heat     wiped them off and loaded up  went bang like all the rest    I will agree though that most lubes are made up of penetrating oils and are not to be used near ammo  they can penetrate the primer/case joint and possibly null the primer   Go easy on the oil with carry guns and keep the firing pin channels dry    A good practice to clear the bench of live ammo before handling anything or clear in a different room then service at the bench but to say the ammo will "suffer the vapors" is a bit of a reach

http://www.wichitaarms.com/Products/sights.asp Some milling required but a "Tank" of a sight, positive click adjustables, and I will admit droppable though I wouldn't make a regular practice of it Here ya go, looks like a BOMAR and is long enough to cover the old colt groove in my series '70 gunsmith melted it in and IIRC came forward just a smidge to do it has been fine since 1988 or so. the .38Super (blue mag base pad) was crooked, Dad was OK with it but it bothered me so I C-More'd it the 10mm (center) was a std. dovetail so a BoMar sits there. What purpose will the Gold Cup serve ? Bullseye shooters prefer black on black I have found it to be the most versatile for me as my attention isn't drawn away by a bright line or dot or triangle etc. One shooter I knew went through a period of changing sights used nail polish/model paint to try out the different options and colors before dropping coin on the real deal I prefer my iron sights all black except for my carry which is a std. Glock 23 but looking at TruGlo TFOs in the near future 3-dot is usually a carry option

in reference to the above "sleeve it to 20" post   would chamber inserts like the briely full length be OK to use I wonder ?   Not that I am looking to shoot the Parker that has been in the family for 5 generations but it sure does shoulder up well.

http://www.breitbart.com/Big-Government/2014/01/07/Democrats-Ask-Bloomberg-To-Back-Off-Gun-Control-Push   Politics makes for strange "allies"    even some Dems realize this guy is a loose cannon and needs to lighten up.