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I am sure Mr. Pedersen would approve of His pistols new wrapper, is it the .380 looks a bit big to be a .32 And I look forward to your next gunleather project... John

Nosnos to answer the paragraph you wrote... All this talk and research has made me want to get into real precision shooting. I can see that it could be addicting. Yes it can be and frustrating at the same time.. And also really freaking expensive. A .22LR "trainer" rifle or air rifle that is accurate will make it less expensive now, reloading your own ammo will make it economical later... trigger time is trigger time but remember "garbage in/garbage out" make every shot count..learn from as many shots as you can.. For now I'm just going to try to get what I've got to be consistent. Consistency breeds accuracy,success and will amaze your shooting buddies break it down to component pieces and work on individual skills,.. nobody starts out 10 for 10 on a 100 yard gong offhand in a crosswind.. I'm still fairly certain my breathing and trigger finger need more work. It will all get better with time and dry firing,trigger finger first, then breathing,then sight alignment then etc. I was lucky and had several serious shooters at my gun club when I was a junior shooter and somehow I was smart enough to listen and learn and get into some league shooting where they could coach me "right then and there" and correct me as needed..Even after all that teaching I have much more to learn that process should never end and will constantly evolve..and I wish I had taken better notes Remember there are a lot of ways to get an "X" what works for one shooter may not work as well for another open mind, take notes, try something if it works keep it if not ..file it in notes for maybe later use as you evolve as a shooter... John

The millitary round will do that so it can fall back to a 200 yard secondary zero add to it the effect of sight height offset and yep about 3" or so then it drops back to Line Of Sight at 200 yds. lets say barrel is 1.5 inches below line of sight so to get to 50 yds. zero we angle the barrel up relative to line of sight,.. the bullet passes line of sight first @ 50 yds. rises up to around 3" at mid range of 100 yds. for our discussion then due to the constant of gravity and a smidge of losing velocity "falls" relative to our line of sight to intersect our line of sight again at 200 yds. then continues to arc down until it finds a backstop. now if we zero @ 100 yards. the bullet will still be travelling up relative to our line of sight and hit low @ 50 yds. and high @ 200 yds. with a secondary intersection downrange as it drops relative to our line of sight.. simply put.. zero @ 100 yds. put the dot on anything out to 130yds. or so and send it..all things being equal the dot will cover your bullet path from 25 yds. to 130yds. closer than 25 yds. and sight offset dictates you will hit up to 1 1/2" low . The best thing to do is if you have a range is try this...set up several targets from 20 to 100 yds. with the same target and after zeroing @ say 100 yds. shoot 3 rounds at each distance target holding the same sight picture... then there is no guessing,no doubt as to what that ammo is doing no "but the book says it should be.." no "I thought for sure it would have.." just cold hard factual holes in paper... The center of each group will give you a good idea of where the rounds will center on as long as you do your part (sight control,breathing proper,trigger control and follow through) you can then go back and figure your zero offsets to rezero at a given yardage (DOPE note) this will be good for that load each load may differ so you get to test a few if you have a few different brands of ammo but then it may be a confirmation of single rounds instead of burning up 3 rounds per distance.. Now this won't be very apparent at closer distances with a .223 or a .30 cal rifle but it will be a start to see greater elevation variances use a .22 LR or a handgun Hope this is helps.... John

yes 1 MOA is 1/2" picture a cone that goes from your muzzle downrange and gets 1.074" wider every 100 yds. OK 1 MOA dot.. now you have a reference.. so a .223 ammo box is say 3"x6" the dot will cover its height @ 300 and width @ 600 if you can see that well..don't know if the eotech has magnification or not but magnification has its own formuals to figure out if you rangefind with a scope a 1MOA group has all the rounds in a 1" circle @ 100 yds. 2" @ 200 yds. on and on 10.75" @ 1000 yds. You will stop guessing with practice and your rounds should hit "behind the dot" I am only repaying a lesson given to me by passing it on so I give you this information with the same price,... if in the future you see a new shooter needing help with a problem.... Pass It On John

What kind of rifle shooting are we talking about ? CQB training/3-gun or reaching out a little ? if you are zeroed @ 50 yds you will be high @ 100 but I am not thinking by 5 " maybe 2 or 3 at the most and you would also have a downrange intersection or "secondary zero" as the bullet crosses the line of sight on the way down maybe 200 yds or so.. it depends on the ammunition used Military ball vs. commercial vs. handloads from the sticky in the long guns forum: http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/long-guns/12498-improved-battlesight-zero-m4-m16-ar15.html here is the ranging part... you have to know what parts of your sight cover what @ a known distance get a notebook and start recording your dope DOPE = Data Of Previous Engagements as in anything that happens when you shoot your rifle so you can reference what YOUR rifle does next time a shot like this one comes up... Say I have a scope with a Duplex Reticle that the center crosshairs cover 12" @ 100 yds. thats 12 @100 or 12 MOA roughly at 200 it should be about 24"between the thick posts in either direction now lets say I see a target that I know stands 10" tall (paint can)which measures from center to thick post so it would be about 90 yds. or a 6 ft. (an old door used as a target backer) my scope center hairs touch the door at top and bottom so it is about 600 yds. out this is the same principal the Mil-Dot works on.. known marks in scope Your Eotech 65MOA would ring a target 65" tall @ 100 yds. is it just a ring or does it have a center dot ? the dot in the center would help at longer ranges if it is smaller say a 5 MOA or something that size MOA = 1.074 inches but is usually rounded for closer ranges it works out to a difference of about .74" @ 1000 yds. I would Zero the Eotech @ 50 yds due to the lack of longrange precision aiming of the device, it is designed for close in work up to 100 yds. but for longer distances maybe a good 3-9 variable and zero at 100 and work a set of drop tables.. John

Layered foam will be easier to find and set up .. then just glue up the edges with 3m trim adhesive from an auto parts store.. Upholstery shops Jo-Ann Fabrics stores etc. will have foam slabs Lowes / Home Depot sells the 2" blue hard density foam board if you are looking to cut outlines easy and sandwich them in I have in the past used a few moving blankets layered between my military rifles and put the targets and range bags on top to keep them from jostling around though my heavy scoped rifle has its own case which also holds the scoped pistols sometimes.. So we have a Jeep and some guns we need to design a case for.. I am thinking the storage box (with maybe bolts through the bottom and a lock) with layers of foam and handguns like a layered cake would work well.. rifles will be a bit trickier as to the length. On a pickup truck I once saw a truck toolbox converted to a rifle setup, it held the rifle and gear along with a single stage press and components so he could reload @ the range another guy built a subfloor in his Suburban that slid out between the wheelwells I see you can buy them now pre made .. let your imagination run your options are limitless.. I would make it secureable to the vehicle so you can run into a shop on the way home or they stay with the vehicle in case of an accident I wouldn't want to imagine a hundered pounds of guns bouncing down the road in a storage box...though that might make a good commercial it owuld suck if it happened in the real world.. John John

here is an exploded diagram so you can refer to the pieces... http://stevespages.com/ipb-winchester-12.html Winchester Model 12 I have heard that if the Trigger assembly is disassembled some folks use a special tool to ease re-assembly but I am sure a few short punches or slave pins will do the job. The Model of 1912 and early model 12s are built like the Win 1897, they don't have disconnectors..that was "added" on the 1200 series the older guns are tougher to strip and re-assemble but are built like bank vaults my 1897 30" full was made in 1929 and still tears crows up John

Welcome to your next level of addiction,.. If I may be of any help please PM me or post here and I will answer as best and as soon as I can, "passing it on..." was the price "they" put on my learning and it is a debt I am still repaying to those that showed me how... John reloading since 1985 handgun and rifle metallic cartridges Lyman Spartan RCBS Junior Dillon RL450 Improved

an original 1870's vintage Marlin/Ballard for $150.00 It was a .40 cal half round half octagon with double set trigger that was sleeved to .22 and "wouldn't shoot worth a damn",...so I offered him $100- he said 150 and good luck.. Do you know a lot of old rimfires "won't shoot worth a damn" with a broken firing pin ? and a Ballard firing pin is a piece of flat steel easily reproduced...after one gets over the shock of cracking open a 120 year old action.. Hell I got more in the scope that sits on top of it than the rifle... an old R.A. Litschert 12x SPOT-SHOT looks like the old school Unertls Some day it may go back to a CF but until then it is cheap to shoot and has a high "drool factor" when it goes to the range John

If you reload you may be able to make them using reforming dies from Redding .32 cal bullets and .30-30 load data ( of course reduced and worked up in Your rifle) should be short work as the 2 casings have similar dimensions.. Another try would be just to use Imperial sizing wax on the necks and run them through the .32 Win Spl dies choose a light end load from the book and fireform the rest of the way if need be.. I reform .30-30 to .401 Herters Magnum using a case trimmer and a 10mm pistol die set and folks have been making .35 Whelen from .30-06 for years .308 to .35 is a bigger jump than .30 to .32 so it should be an easy trick, Just make sure to label them .32 W Spl on the box to keep them from being mistaken for a .30-30 John

Don't forget your "personal soundtrack" on your I-Pod 007 (anything) Kill Bill - Battle without Honor or Humanity Jan Hammer - Crocketts Theme ( for when VLTOR releases the Bren Ten ) or if you have time... Me I just rack it, stash it and I am out the door....

I would have lost "valuable style points" with the answer attributed to a Texas Ranger when asked that question... His Reply: " If I was expecting trouble.....I would have brought my rifle..." John My Carry Guns : Always carried, always chambered, never fired (except in practice/matches) since 1988 I am hoping for an 90 year streak on this

Is there someone who can call to get the local suggestion from ? I run a modified extended choke from Carlsons but it is a 3" shell 2 shot over decoys and BB for passing birds Reelfoot with a 2 3/4" gun... I would probably spring for the heavier no-tox shells as steel needs speed to kill well (thus the advent of the 3 1/2" etc.) shot size I am unsure of.. try Duck Hunting Chat maybe a post there will help you and possibly call some Reelfoot guide services or check online for a guide service website they may have a "suggestion" page for ammo and gear smack em and stack em John

I believe the B is an upgraded version.. If you send a 550 back to dillon they can upgrade and I think all you pay is shipping either Dillon or Brian Enos - Competition Shooting Books, Slide-Glide, DVDs & Reloading can advise you.. I have heard several stories that started off " I bought an old Dillon press at a yard sale and sent it back... " and ended with "when I opened the box they shipped back I had a brand new press..." NO-B.S. Warranty is truly defined by Dillon Precision we admitted we screwed up and broke a part all they asked for was our current address and 3 days later it was on our door step .. no questions and a "sorry it wasn't strong enough.." John P.S. I use an old 450 with the powder upgrade and am planning on a primer upgrade.. the changeable tool head conversion will wait as setting up dies etc. isn't that big a deal for me. mine was a gift and my dads machine is still going strong after 20+ years

Predecessors to the 1100 The Sportsman 48 or an 11-48 however you probably wouldn't like them... they are all machined steel and oil finished wood,.. blued finish bead front sight 2 3/4" shells only 5 rounds total most you will find plugged to 3 rounds... no collapsible stock,or polymer stocks,no rails,lights,vertical fore grips,sidesaddles,porting,fiber optic ghost rings,ventilated heat shield hand guards,mag extensions or ...even sling swivels or changeable chokes,ported or extended no holes in the stock for mercury recoil reducers,no variable gas system... and no Alu-mini-umm parts Nope not tacti-cool or tacti-coolable guns there..... :stir::stir: John

I used a 10mm in IPSC for about 5 years a dual port compensated open class gun with BARSTO barrel and red dot scope guiding it.. it took me to B class and the guy I bought it from made A class with it and it still shoots 1 hole groups at 25 yds. Yes I reload and the point for IPSC was I downloaded it to still make Major PF (back when it was 175 so I ran about 185 comfortable or 195+ whe I wanted to make a point) and everyone around me was longthroating their 40's to 10mm length to make them work back in the early 90's in hicap 1911 frames and to hold enough powder. I could hit poppers 4" up from the base pin and take them down ( one club liked hanging penalty targets behind steel) The 10mm is a "reloaders special" to get it to shine like it used to before ammo makers quietly dubbed it a 40 S&W Long but maybe with the BREN TEN coming back out and folks like DoubleTap it may come back if enough shooters create the market demand.. let Winchester lose enough market share to DT and see what happens to that Silvertip loading. As far as the "But a .41 Mag." argument.... back in 1966 George Herter intro'd a .401 Revolver the Powermag yeah its ugly but it will do anything your beloved .41 will do and it is a....... 10mm Herter's .401 PowerMag And if either of these don't hit hard enough... well I have an '06 for those problems John

I would like to add that : If one shoots the specials make sure to CLEAN the cylinder chambers very well or extraction after the first cylinder full of Mags will be sticky and difficult especially if a lot of lead special reloads were used as they tend to build up a ring at the case mouth. usually a quick scrub with a bronze brush and your G2G beats using a "tapping device" on the extractor rod any day.. And Leroy is right a lot more .38s have gone down the barrel of my 586 than have .357s John

Unless your looking for a hunting gun....My vote is an Old '97 Many years ago, Winchester conducted a durability test on a random gun pulled off the assembly line, and over a 25+ year period, they fired more than 1.25 million shells through it. The firing pin was replaced just one time Call me when a Mossy or a Remmy can do that. BTW I have owned both a Remmy and a Mossy,.. they served me well and never gave me trouble but the WIN stays here I can always get a Mossy cheap from a Rem fan and a Rem cheap from a Mossy fan...but an original '97 American made,or an old 1912,..not a 1200 a 1912 or '12 they are hard to come by... John

Been in Tenn. for 3 years now moved up from Fla. Love the duck hunting, not much of that in Tampa..also Kayaking Been reloading since about 1986 and competed in most handgun events except IHMSA or Cowboy Action.. started out in Bullseye moved over to IPSC tried IDPA Also shot some CMP Matches and smallbore for a season or 3 So the collection is a bit eclectic from the common M-1,1911 etc. to the fussy S&W M-52-2 to the "Mighty Herters Powermag" ( those that have read old Georges catalogs will understand that one ) along the way I learned many ways of shooting and reloading common and oddball ammo so ask away I may have stumbled over the answer and wrote it in a book somewhere, after all that is why we are here to help each other aren't we ? I have an odd schedule so getting to the range is spotty at best , dry firing and burning powder when I can is the order of the day,..when it isn't duck season John

.357 SIG and the .40S&W are the same case head so the only problem I would see is the powder drop tube, a .38Spl or 9mm powder funnel should work with a .40 shell plate/pin combo.. Square Deal takes its own kind of dies the RL550 and 650 and others take dies from any die maker using the standard 7/8" / 14 TPI Dillon,Lyman,RCBS,LEE,Redding etc. The 650 does pistol and smaller rifle cartridges but the combinations for a 550 are almost limitless at one time .25ACP to .458Win Mag though I think Dillon discontinued the .25acp kits I am probably the only guy who loads .401 Herters Mag. on a Dillon: 10mm dies and a .30-30 Win Shellplate conversion A call to the reloaders bench in Mt.Juliet may be helpful they deal Dillon.. J