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I have someone trying this to solve the long pull he has on his M4-gery Junk Yard Genius.com AR-15/M-16 Pages, page 1. I can let you know what he thinks when he is done,.. John

CZ 75 just not sure which variant...maybe the SP-01 with a Kadet conversion also.. could always build that AR-15 I want ,.. just have to consider it a long term project... John

Ashland City isn't far Broomhead,..I am unfamiliar with the LEE Auto Disk ( I have one in a box somewhere around here..) so I will leave that to the other folks. I am in the middle of building a bench and reorganizing the next few weeks or I would figure a day to show you,.. but feel free to ask any questions you may have I have been loading for around 25 years now... Handgun and rifle mostly that other die may be a "taper crimp" die,.. important for semi autos as a roll crimp is not suggested due to head spacing the case on the mouth, but it can be done.. +1 on the manual,.. and buy a few I have several from a simple powder chart style to LEEs book and an old Lyman, 47th Edition I think it is... for a 9mm Luger I would think a standard 115 FMJ and load to ball equivalent the Mak would take a lighter bullet ( under 100 grains) and for some reason I think a different diameter (.365 instead of the .355 for the Luger google is a great thing...) Depending on the pistol and type of shooting you plan on doing with it would help you decide what you load it with,.this is the great thing about reloading... About the scale,.... check weights... order them, and keep them safe.. as long as the scale is consistent and accurate to the check weights you are good to go Electronic scales are sensitive to lights I have heard,.. I use 2 beam scales an RCBS and an old Ohaus Welcome to the "bullet packing" club,.... I got my start on a Lyman SPARTAN press, moved to a Dillon but use the "Old Gray" for some of my calibers.. John

OK someone just go ahead and make a set using the heads of the caliber the 1911 is in, .45 ACP for the classic carry .38 Super for the IPSC folks,.. .40 S&W for the IDPA guys maybe some .38Spl for the Bullseye crowd... not much thickness but that would be the "Dubs" of this evolution Maybe smaller head screws and inletting the case heads as grip screw escutcheons John ~~ looking at a few of the 3,000 10mms he has thinking " I have a T-15 driver...." ~~

the A4 doesn't get used much but the 1917, M-1, and the A3's get worked occasionally.... John

I had heard at one time when I was shooting IPSC that a shooter claimed the Brass sealed better getting him higher velocities in his .38 Super ,.. never tested it myself because..... 10mm doesn't worry about making a 175 ( at that time ) power factor..... I guess you could load some up and compare things like accuracy and velocity but in the end,... Nickel casings make prettier loaded rounds and don't tarnish if left in ammo cans for a long time... load some rifle ammo with those poly tips and you will have some really sweet looking ammo John

davidz71 How did you know what my 6" 586 DAO and my S&W 52 lived on ?? 158's usually were filled with just enough Unique to get them around 850-900 fps. I forget the grains but should be in any reloading manual .003" taper crimp and some Safariland Comp III L- Frame speedloaders and we are off to the races... may have to go with this if they will let me for the HCP course.. John P.S. sometimes the brass develops small dings especially if you drop them, or eject them, onto concrete,.. sometimes a quick pass with a file will fix the dings and help them fit the shell holder I solved this by loading them all on a Dillon 550 its shell holder is very forgiving when set up properly and the groups still stay as tight as rounds loaded on either my RCBS or Lyman Spartan... John

OK now we have gone too far,..this will never work with current fashion trends... How will you be able to see the boxer shorts above the lowrider pants if the shirt comes down so far,... and Urban ManJams would have to be more like a short post box(Med.), paper box( XL), or SmartCar ( XXXL ) and in darker or more vibrant colors,.. " Yo Mama looks like a short bus " Yellow and "that dumpster just moved" Blue ... John

Massachusetts has always believed itself different because it isn't a state,.. it is the "Commonwealth of Massachusetts" which to some folks is different than a state... I know because I left in 1997 with all my evil toys.... and life has been easier ever since... Massachusetts is a Commonwealth,<sup id="cite_ref-4" class="reference"></sup> declaring itself as such in its constitution, which states that "The body politic is formed by a voluntary association of individuals: it is a social compact, by which the whole people covenants with each citizen, and each citizen with the whole people, that all shall be governed by certain laws for the common good." Kentucky,Virginia and Pennsylvania are also considered commonwealths along with DC it is probably just semantics, but the politicians also love using that word to defend some of their less than noble actions... John

Verne, I also use ammo cans, unless the ammo is one of my various shooting bags/cases then it goes into one of those plastic boxes in said case.. Shotgun stays in their boxes as I don't reload them Don't worry about your sig line,..Some will understand and some won't My grandmother is ageless from Wareham Mass. and my father raised me, you might call me Lewis John

"That thar R&G will shoot one hole groups all day long at ANY distance...you just gotta do your part.....now if'n you are a semi-auto man I got a Jennings that should do just fine, if you can hold it still enough....." Was that good enough ? or do we need to add some day glo paint to the sights ? BWWaaaaaaHHHaaaaaaaHHHHaaaaaaa John

Sorry,.. I am loading off of stockpiles,.. updating prices still keeps it below $5.50 a box of 50 148gr HBWC 68.00 per 1000 (Delta Precision) 2.7 grs Bullseye $17.00 a Lb. Win Small Pistol Primer 34.00 per 1000 TOTAL $ 5.45 box of 50 I own more .38 casings than I will ever need to load and at that pressure level they last for-ever to compare my .45 load $6.75 a box / 50 200 gr. LSWC 88.00 per 1000 (Delta Precision) 5.7 grs. WW 231 ( often referred as the "Mickey Fowler" loading ) 17.00 Lb. Win Lg Pistol Primers 34.00 per 1000 Brass see above, it is good to have friends who don't reload I have to reload,.. it isn't a choice for me.. .38 Special S&W M-52 ( try finding mid-range flush seat wadcutter ammo on the shelf) and when fixed a S&W M19 PPC revolver .401 Herters ( discontinued 1969 proprietary cartridge) .38 Super IPSC race gun ( yeah above SAAMI specs ) 10mm ,. cause I hate 40S&W long and,..have you priced a box of 10mm lately ? .30-06 2 Custom build rifles , why hamstring with surplus crap ? M-1 ( has to have proper pressure curve or your buying an Op rod ) 1903-A4 for the few times this sees a rifle range, I want to make sure ammo is in spec. I enjoy the "quiet time" in my shop loading and tinkering.. well it is about to get noisy I am planning the new bench John

Once your set up you can generally load a box of 50 for $5-$6.00 compared to Winchester White box ($23.00 Midway) that is almost 4 to 1 reload vs. factory Now setup costs will vary but you can back figure that cost then do the math and get the number of reloads to recoup the initial investment ( by saving $15.00 per 50 how many rounds will it take to get to $ X.00 for my press,scale,supplies) take that round count , and think on how long it takes you to shoot that much, now if you are a range rat, or competitive shooter that won't take long, but if you only go 3 times a year and shoot say 2 boxes a trip then reloading probably isn't for you. Unless you see yourself shooting more now that a box of 50 is only a $5 bill Once your press is paid for ( check around for some used gear ) there is no comparison reloads are the way to go as long as you are detail oriented and consistent , because you can blow a gun up if you goof bad enough , and you can tailor the loading to what you are doing. Downloaded wadcutters for paper punching, introducing a new shooter to the sport or Jacketed Hollowpoints for hunting, pin shooting, MATCH GRADE if you want to compete.. and the press is just a start, with a change of the dies you can load almost any cartridge you see out there,.. except .50BMG which takes a larger press I reload .38 SPL for $3.80 a box. My .30-06 costs me about 30 cents a piece or $6.00 a box of 20 My 10 mm runs like a 10 mm should not the "40S&W Long" loading thew factory puts out these days My advice is to seek out a reloader at a local club or Gun Shop and look through some of the books I am sure there is someone here on the board from K-ville or nearby that can guide you through the process should you decide to persue another facet of the shooting world

" I said,.. Put the %@#*&%^ toilet seat DOWN !!! "

Was that on the same table as the A4 clone ?? down near the back wall where it got kind of dark near C.I.S. table ? if it was that's kind of ironic isn't it... a real deal next to a clone,.. glad I didn't see the A4 All I need is the 330 scope and rings and my A4 is back to spec. Then there was the $800.00 A5 scope further down John P.S. the oddest find for me was the 3 boxes of factory .44 AMP at $85.00 a box

if you have any loaded rounds left,..pull one or two and measure the charge with a scale... just to verify your charge weight.. if you don't have a scale,..put it on your next thing to get list...I always verify by weight From the Alliant guide: POWDER BUSHING CHARTS A reloading scale is required to check the nominal weight of a powder charge. Powder bushings can vary in the charge weight they drop and could vary as much as several grains under certain conditions. Powder density, moisture content, and loading technique can cause a variation from the bushing weights listed on the charts. Also, the loading machine vibration affects charge weights. A complete loading cycle should be completed to assure an average powder charge weight. When you are talking a spread of 1 , 2 or 4 tenths near max or trying to find that "perfect load" again bushings may not repeat it but a scale will. I learned on a LEE Load-All that bushings will vary LEE instructions with my Load-All stated to check with scale also IIRC. Also when getting used to working an auto powder measure the press strokes should be smooth and consistent with a pause at the top (down handle) of the ram travel to allow everything to settle in. I am not familiar with the autodisk but have one in my bin of "old gear" but with other designs I find this helps with a good charge weight result.. Crimping will also change the pressures, rifle reloaders refer to it as neck tension, so you may want to check that measurement also I resize a casing and then taper crimp to .003"-.004" smaller than resized,.. less crimp means less pressure and less velocity with the added chance of projectile setback which is bad as some gun/ammo combinations will pressure spike. When looking for a new pet load I usually go mid-way between min and max for my semi's then load a spread of 10-15 rounds each to see where the desired result is,taking careful notes and putting the rounds back in the ziploc bags I label to take them from bench to range Hope this helps,.. John

All in all a good show,was there from 10-3 . wish I had a TGO shirt to recognize some of you other folks got to talk with Mrs. Todd as he was elsewhere by the time I got to the booth. I will be contacting you folks at C.I.S for my HCP class hopefully sometime this summer.. Also saw for the first time NIB 44 Auto Mag ammo and had a great discussion with the gentleman about old calibers and the Herters Company An yeah that DoubleStar lower almost left with me... but there are a few irons in the fire ahead of that glass of Kool-Aid Welcome Donkey,..you have fallen in with a great bunch of miscreants with a shooting addiction John

other than the obvious pieces,.. an old RCBS die box with the ridges cutout to hold all the small bits that get lost,oil,pot of grease etc. I hear Dillon sells a box like this now. First Aid kit, cause accidents do happen Spare batteries for dot sights. Spare glasses and several packs of disposable ear plugs,..somebody always forgets or shows up with a buddy and is short mini binoculars,staple gun,staples and a roll of masking tape to repair targets notebook the flip top "Joe Friday" kind and a few pencils,pens and markers Squib rod, a piece of all thread with a nylon sleeve over it and a Lyman brass hammer and after loading the range bag the camelback was filled and strapped thru the handle to remind me to take it with me .. water always seems in short supply at ranges... I used to carry surveyors ribbons and some wire rod in the truck to make wind flags when I did a lot of load developing for rifles John

http://www.neshooters.com/awerbuck.pdf Here is a modern error chart,.. This document was developed by Louis Awerbuck. 2 handed semi-auto but should give you some food for thought Short sight radius will really magnify sight error,.. you can actually shoot pretty straight with a snub once you get used to it.. Aslo not squeezing your whole hand while taking in the long ( compared to the KelTec) DA trigger pull will get you closer to center Hope this helps,. John

Cool,.. always loved the six-guns... I run a pair of vintage Herters single actions,not much for cowboy action shooting I have enough hobbies... LOL Ask away if you have any other questions,.. this is a pretty friendly bunch here.. John

Start in the middle and work up watching for pressure signs as you go,..ie: hard extraction, flattened primers (not 100% reliable as primer hardness varies) punctured or loose primers though you should stop before you get to the last 2 your OAL can be affected by your initial brass length also, compared to what the reload manual states as cartridge length,.. straight walled cartridges tend to shrink the more they are reloaded I would go by the standard "back off 10-15% and work up in your firearm" Also if you have a chronograph you can watch the velocity curve,sometimes more powder = less velocity depending on the powder/crimp/bullet combo or especially from shorter barrels you "max out" due to incomplete burning, why waste the powder , unless you like fireballs... May I ask as to the intended purpose of the loading ? paper punching , hunting etc. John

I always attributed Kool-Aid to ARFcom I guess it comes in many flavors.... buying the 1911 is only the start,... then there's the catalogs of accessories and parts and "I can build one to......" sicknesses that will go along with it.... ENJOY and remember March 29,2011 the design has its 100th. birthday not too many can claim that (US ARMY Contract signature date) John

I recall seeing maybe 6 Det. Specials at Outpost Armory a few weeks back.. it would be easy to get a side by side comparison as they probably also have a few S&W there.. I like my 2nd. Variant Colt Det.Spl. but a Chiefs is a nice snub also,would probably go with a SS 640 if I ever carry a snub seriously .. And you can fire +P in a Detective Special just don't make it a steady diet thing, I think a .357 640 loaded with +P .38 would be the best balance for me. coltds The Colt Detective Special John

Did some google for you,.. As long as it isn't a "Last Ditch" or late production rifle.. your OK to shoot it after a proper inspection by a gunsmith is made ammo may not be too hard to get as I found this also.. The 7.7 Arisaka | Reloading The 7.7 Arisaka cartridge can be thought of as a cross between the .303 British and the .30-06. For that matter, it’s also very similar to the 7.65 Argentine Mauser. It is not interchangeable with any of the three. It uses .311-inch-diameter bullets (the same as the .303 British) but is a rimless Mauser-type cartridge just like the .30-06. The only source of factory-new 7.7 Arisaka ammunition that I could find today is Norma, and the company makes only one loading, that with a 174-grain soft nose bullet. If you aren’t able to get any cases for reloading by using Norma ammo, you can easily form them from .30-06 brass using the regular 7.7 Arisaka (or 7.7x58) case-sizing die. You simply trim the .30-06 cases to 2.27 inches (that takes off about one-quarter of an inch) and then run them through the resizing die. The shoulder gets set back by about .130 inch, and of course the neck gets opened slightly to accept the .311-inch bullet. It is not a heavy job, but it may be too much to be done in many progressive presses. I do not know of your resources for reloading or case forming but thought this may help.. John

I had always heard the wives-tail that if you cut the forend off and removed the action from the stock, it fit in a sea bag better John