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Grew up in New England,.. scalloped the shores of Martha's Vineyard for blue eyed bay scallops during the day shucked em in the afternoon and grilled them for dinner with a beer in the winter,.. Quahogs were another treat along with the occasional cookout on South Beach They have a season also think it is late fall until springtime.. will always remember the shuck bowl of scallops all wiggling around

My first 1911 was built on a SS Essex frame many rounds later it is retired and waiting a .22 conversion ( the hammer and sear pin holes have worn out of spec) Lots of heavy ammo went through that gun several seasons of IPSC and Pin shooting it held up well.. My dad is currently fitting a carbon frame to his ACE conversion with no problems however he was told years ago that some Essex frames pin holes were out of alignment and "dropping in parts" would be iffy and probably would need to hand fit parts instead. this was almost 20 years ago though.. Did Guns and More build this gun ? or is it a trade in from a customer ? that would Seriously affect whether or not I would buy it,. the Good news about a 1911 is that almost anybody can build one...the Bad news is that almost anybody can build one so care should be taken when selecting one of unknown history especially if it is going to be used for more than a "fun" gun to go plink with this blog may help.. Xavier Thoughts: Checking a Used 1911 with a Purchase in Mind Hope this helps you, keep us posted John

nope, Strong hand thumb goes under cyl. latch weak hand thumb goes onto recoil shield above the cyl. latch keeps them both out of the way and weak thumb keeps gun from rotating to the left..same grip on all my revolvers I also am not Jerry John

interesting,... I have my 6" 586 but it is DA only with a trigger stop and we changed the red insert for a black one I have always used the Safariland Comp III speed loaders but moons do look like a viable option,.. You have given me some food for thought. only question I would have is can you run it without a moon clip and no problems with non supported head area just thinking higher pressure rounds might have an issue but maybe not.. John

Sidinman, I looked into .41 Spl. loadings when I was fire forming brass for my .401 it looks like a great mid-bore cartridge ! My list (handgun): .22 Short .22 LR .38 Spl. .357 Mag .38 Super .40 S&W 10mm .401 Herters Magnum .45ACP Now rifles would be another 5 or so.. John

Let us not forget the other 39 variant,.. The S&W M-52 the only "production" semi S&W ever guaranteed accuracy of when it left Springfield 2 1/2" at 50 yds. from a machine rest and the little fat gun the S&W 469 and s.s. counterpart 669 some say the mini-gun was inspired by DEVEL corp. and the old ASP guns the custom shops put out. as far as the 39's go the older ones had a wide external extractor when they broke and you sent them back to S&W they replaced slides with narrower external extractors. First released in 1955 to civilian market The A sequence started in 1971 Last one was SN A747148 shipped out in 1983 Some were suppressed for the military ( SEALS ) "Hush Puppies" the Mk 22 Mod 0 for dog and sentry removal... Hope this helps John

I have done some paracord work... Duck call lanyards etc. working on a wrist sling for my bow next... John

yes 2 safeties will PM and start a new post so we don't jack this one.. John

Also check that you didn't fire many .38SPL in the gun prior they will leave a ring at the case mouth that the 357Mag case ( 1/10" longer) will pressure form to and make extraction "sticky" pics of primers and sides of casings would help us see whats happening.. John

When I set up my 500 with a Mesa Adapter ( Ar-15 stocks and grips) I just switched out a Maverick 88 trigger group and use that safety which is a cross block in the front trigger guard where my trigger finger rests prior to moving to the trigger to fire... very quick to use once you get some time in with it.. add in a 28" barrel and we are great for Turkey season.. note the safety button forward of trigger in the guard..left the Tang in place to seal the hole in receiver, fitted it to actually work with new trigger guard This pic was first setup 18" with hand guard and shell holders both sides,... rainy days and tools make for some funny combos John

Willis,.. You want to think "pin-barreled" some of the earlier non pinned were over torqued and a barrel/cylinder alignment tool also called a range rod will show you the tight spot where the barrel meets the frame, we had some in a shop I worked at that wouldn't pass this test and even occasionally wouldn't pass the cylinder alignment part of the test if it got that far,.. and accuracy from a rest was horrible, fire 6 shots get 2 groups (load same ammo into a pin barrel 586 and get 1 group same test) Accuracy will never match an older pinned barrel as this tight spot "squashes" the bullet undersized , though a 2" barrel will be harder to shoot due to sight radius they are plenty accurate once you get used to them. I have a 4" 10-6 in .38 , and a 586 pinned barrel that both range perfect I am confident the old K-38 will also.. I have no desire to own a Squeeze barrel or Clintonlock edition Smith may have fixed this problem in later models but I would still test them with a range rod,.. match grade to verify the cylinder timing and if this tight spot is or is not there.. if you are looking for the best in accuracy potential John

Automotive touch up paint.... should hold up to heat and cleaning chems just fine.. John Torch red and Bright white

I have always crimped in a separate die,.. auto and revolver ammo ,.. First book should be a notebook a durable one for the years ahead, records don't "think" they just record enter load info,. brass,powder,projectile weight and type, amount of crimp,....Copy that info and place the slip in the ammo box with those loads stickers on the outside fade or get worn off paper inside is safe and keeps a second note also handy to write range results on to transfer to your main notebook later... every detail and even group size, or a small drawing of the group so you can re-create that load every time... even if you leave the sport for a few years... Second book,.. Lyman,Sierra, LEE all are excellent books I also have several articles cut from the shooting rags back when they posted data,.. handy for us who shoot "10mm Norma Auto" or a .401 Herters or a round that doesn't make it into next years manual.. Take your time, read all the info in the books, don't rush. As my dad told me when I was taught,.. Consistency is accuracy but consistent mistakes make for a really bad day.. Welcome to the hobby within the sport enjoy ! John

Just keep in mind,..modern '06 will be hard on the Garand,.. Port Pressure is the real issue.. Hornady is offering a load these days I hear I just hand load my own to spec. there are numerous websites to the care and feeding of this grand old rifle.. Fulton Armory has an excellent FAQ section.. Mine is a '43 receiver with a '57 barrel The numbers you are referring to are probably Drawing lot numbers here is a taste.. http://www.northcapepubs.com/m1gar.htm John

The geese hate it when I bring mine out.... I would rate it better than the baikals I have seen not as chunky and to me mounted better the throats are rough but a hone and oil will be fixing that this summer.. the 12s take Mossberg chokes I am not sure if the 20's do some take Benelli/Beretta chokes I have been told... a nice affordable hunting shotgun , and if something hapens I won't have to post a " Was out hunting and lost my $1200.00 Beretta " sob story... lesson to them buy a floating case if you hunt John BTW that may have been a "Banquet" gun judging from the stock...

KB4ns,.. yes I liked the idea of the stainless it fit almost perfect Leroy.. I am going with the black Magpul Enhanced Guard and setting it with screws like this....probably Magpul for the stocks also Never break the ears off a lower receiver again - AR15.COM I have also done this mod Simple fix for the rear takedown detent spring blues.... - AR15.COM mostly because I know my luck with small screws and it enabled me to set all the pieces in the lower until I get the stock and buffer tube to replace the tube I took off my Mesa adapter for the Mossberg 500 which lacked the plate to hold said spring in place.. Paint fill the selector markings is next (always liked HKs lowers) John

EBR in training,.. it is a start,.. John

Shop owner should have done it himself,..if its a typo I bet it is the last time the boss tells the new guy to "put these on GB" and hands him handwritten notes ... bart_p I agree with you and to show Magpul I have no hard feelings I will equip my next AR build with their products good gear

Looks like a variant to the Colt Gold Cup triggers... I am thinking you would need to get a long solid one from maybe Brownells and get busy with a drill press or a Dremel tool... I like the McCormicks myself,..I also have a flat +170 long trigger also.. John

OK I see now.... tape the rings where they clamp and trim excess... you should be fine... Enjoy your Browning,.. I thought of getting one to use as a field gun as the Medalist really isn't suited to holster duty.. John

You may have to make your own,... I found this info if you have to go that route, beats dry firing If 6.6x55 Swede is used, simply pass the brass thru a full length 7.5x54 MAS die, check length, chamfer and load. It can be done easily. 30-06 brass works well too. There'll be a slight bulge in front of the case head after first firing, and some fairly serious case length reduction will be needed, but with a power case trimmer or a mini tubing cutter it's no biggie. I like using U.S. GI brass because I have about 150 pounds of it left from a garbage can full I was given in the 60's. You could also check adaptability of .308 Winchester but it may be too short... http://www.riflemagazine.com/magazine/PDF/hl145partial.pdf Just a thought... John

Do you have a mount or are you looking for a mount ? de sticky a bit of electrical tape and cut to fit,or stick it to the mount and trim excess.. if the rail is anything like a Browning Medalist, they make an excellent clamp on mount for it, I had a 'smith make one for my Browning then someone came out with one a year later... http://www.bme-mounts.com/images/BRM.jpg Aimtech shows a grip mount if you like those,.. Aimtech Charcoal Black Mount For Browning Buckmark & Challenger II APM10 FREE S&H APM10. Aimtech Riflescope Mounts, Rings & Bases. Good luck in your search,.. John Medalist upper left corner sorry it doesn't show the mount better

the difference in accuracy in a red dot and an eotech is simple,.. the red dot with a small dot ( 1 or 3 MOA _ will get you to 100 yds. on a 6" steel plate the Eotech , at least the few I have looked through, would not due to reticle size/design , neither would a "big dot" tasco ( 8 to 10 MOA ) they just cover too much of the target to be small group precise ... you could ring the steel once you get to know it but it will be a bit of trial and error,.... keep in mind most spiral tubes will out shoot the human behind it... My Dads HK-91 wears a Tasco small red Dot and he hits steel plates out to 300 yds. his M-4gery also wears a fakecog and he hits at 100 So in summary, if you are planning a short reach rifle then either battery eater will do, it is an AR with a dot, which fits your goals you have described above.. I have no experience with co-witnessing so I will probably get a set of fold down BUIS "just in case" when I build my AR.. My AR will have an 18" barrel and fill the need for an easy shooter up to about 300 yds. for that I will need glass with cross hairs for 300 and out ,... .30-06 either my M-1 or a good bolt gun ... She's is the small block chevy of the gun world,.. make her run like you want her to run, you can always upgrade or change as your shooting style/needs change which is the genius of Eugene Stoner.... modular adaptability... John GCrookston : I got a sweet rifle like that but the problem with his was a broken firing pin I do agree that properly mounted quality optics do make the difference when going for single holes though..

Leroy,.. I looked it over a second time and , actually due to being behind the pivot point , it acts as a take up screwan over travel screw would have to be forward of the pivot point say adding some shim stock under the ledge in front of the spring if there is room to do that securely or possibly tapping the lower in front of the trigger with the screw setting upwards.. I am looking forward to the reports and will keep you updated.. John P.S. here is an X-ray I found.. helped me to see how it all goes together.. AR-15 X-ray photo - Ron N. photos at pbase.com

go ahead if you have no other sights,..beats sighting down an empty rail On an AR I am planning to build it will have a conventional scope with crosshairs but also a red dot set at 2 O'Clock with an offset mount for close up targets ( under 50-75 yds.) Like one set up for 3 gun matches... risers will add bore offset to close targets but if you don't shoot from behind barricades or over cars you will be fine... unlike a post I saw once where a guy went resting on his hood or roof and forgot he laid out some other gear he couldn't see through his scope,.. yep shot his gear off his car.. think it was a revolver he shot..can't seem to find it now.. The Tasco I have lasted 5 seasons on a 10mm comp gun so I would say it would last on an AR of course if you were going for "Gee Whizz" a C-Mor rail mount would be an option.. couldn't you just buy a set of high rings might be cheaper than a riser John