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The only caution I would have is,.. Eddystones were torqued really tight when they were initially barreled they have a tendency to crack during a rebarrel I think Hatchers Notebook first mentioned it,.. the barreling machine was set tight and wasn't discovered for quite some time,.. the good news however is that they were also rifled tight,.. even dark these old irons shoot very well I bought one and spent 2 weeks cleaning the bore,.it went from a dark to a look almost akin to bead blasted but with decent edges on the rifling.... shoots about 4" @ 100 with my Garand Reloads..I have heard of folks having success with longer jacketed or lead bullets in the accuracy dept. I would further research this maybe through the CMP or their message boards before sending it out to rebarrel you could lose a nice piece of history... John

If you do find an older K frame .357 be aware that they can/will develop a crack in the barrel at the bottom of the forcing cone area, the flat cut area near where the crane closes in,..this is the reason for the L frame which is not cut there other than that,... load it shoot it ..repeat as necessary they will cause you to want more.. I have several S&W revolvers and a M-19 with a cracked forcing cone but it was a PPC conversion I shot steel matches with.. a 4+ Lbs. .357 doesn't recoil much someday I will have it rebarreled until then the M-586 will keep the .357s sounding off.. John

Guess it's time for a "Hell,I was there " story or 2 I have a Series 70 Gold Cup top end.. it USED TO HAVE a finger or collet style bushing, all the Gold Cup Series '70s I have seen suffer this problem,..until it breaks which mine did in a PPC match (1992-3 I think) while feeding a live round in,.. split at the side and acted like a lock washer so we removed firing pin etc. and carefully pressed with a flat head screwdriver to get the bushing back together and close the slide,.. then we carefully racked the slide to extract the live round... now there's a KART NM bushing like the originals wore and all is well..still have a faded scar on my left palm from trying to "tap" the slide with a Wichita rear sight closed.... Series 80,.. used to own and carry a Colt Officers Model in Stainless Steel,.. almost had to use it one night,.. the next weekend at the range I decided I should practice more,.. loaded up and disengaged thumb safety, pressed trigger and CLICK immediate failure drill , tap rack repeat, 6 times,..6 CLICKs all rounds exhibited a small dimple on the primer not a good feeling.... off to Mike LaRocca in Worcester Mass... where it was discovered the lever didn't lift the plunger far enough and slowed the firing pin,. new set of safety gear and I got to watch the master at work.. a few years later I traded it for an A4 Springfield,.. I am of the school that JMB pretty much had it figured out and it doesn't need these 2 "enhancements" John.. As Warbird said,.. any part can fail... most semi-autos today use a variant of the 80 Series plunger firing pin block GLOCK, S&W etc. I guess I was just unlucky twice... so you all should be safe.. if you play the odds

The Disconnector spring is tapered,.. if it is put in backwards the gun will double,.. as far as the failures to fire, sounds like something is dragging and slowing the hammer down or the gun is not fully into battery and cushioning the hammer fall... I have heard all sorts of break in procedures but "run em wet" was the recurring theme, Uppers need oil too.... oil it down,bolt lugs,carrier pin etc. with Break Free or similar light machine oil ( I have heard of some folks breaking in with Mobil 1 oil of a light viscosity ) and see if that helps the next few mags.... no need to be dripping oil all over the bench but you will probably get some back through the charging handle raceway so wear glasses and bring a rag... John

Welcome to .30 cal. land Enjoy your 104 year old caliber.. lots of history and you can't go wrong with a Rem 700 John

I can think of 2 reasons 1. you can download one of these to do the lighter caliber work,..they are called gallery loads .31 cal lead roundball for projectile... but not the other way around which helps with #2. 2. Someday he may have to hit something with a rifle that needs to " Stay Hit " or reach further than the lighter calibers can provide.. Well these are my reasons for owning a few '06's and maybe someday I will get a .308 Tactical rifle to be a "cool kid",...... when my 03A3 is shot out... if I live that long... John Train with a good .22 Bolt gun up to 100 yds. and you will learn more with 1000 rounds than you would with 1000 rounds of any centerfire rifle at any other distance..

I just separate my brass for each rifle and use a sharpie to mark the casings, especially if more than one goes to the range that day... Springfield gets a line, P-17 gets a cross, 03A4 only uses LC MATCH , other Springfield gets a primer colored in, etc. Most are boltguns so the M-1 brass is easy to spot but gets marked with a peace sign ( I was young and it seemed funny at the time, you know , "Peace through Superior firepower" ).. and for FL sizing,.. I back the die out until it FL's enough to work in that rifle,..minimizing brass working also I polish my mandrels with FLITZ and lube the necks it seems to help BTW the .303 Brit is a lost cause if you FL 3 loadings and out on that cartridge.. 3/4 FL for semi's ( I only have the M-1) and neck size the bolt guns with a partial FL ( as described above) about every 4th. loading, which is when I trim them..

Greg I think your thinking of Berdans Primer 2 flash holes which will break decapping pins without a problem.. BJB if I had a nickel for every pin I have broken,.. might be able to buy another set of dies... I have extra pins and decapping rods onhand,.. its not a question of IF but WHEN this will happen You can order just pins and rods from most reloading suppliers just make sure they are from your die maker... RCBS and LEE and LYMAN have a different way of going about their die making so they won't interchange... now if you get a case stuck in the die,and someday you will.... a spare rod is also handy to have... there is a technique for getting the case out by using the rod and the set nut depending on your die maker... no need for all this drilling and tapping folks seem to think they need to do...but it can be hard on the rod and lock nuts post a pic of your die and I can walk you through the process I use.. John

Never heard of anyone moly coating cast bullets,.. Have seen some folks moly 168's and 173's for Hi~Power Rifle though ,.. my research didn't show enough positives to justify the efforts on my end for my setup though... I can see where it may cut down on the smoke and possibly the leading but will it eliminate the need for lube in the grease grooves? John

at 200,.. nothing anyone would see,..the '06 may , on paper have more recoil, but will shoot flatter on paper and we are talking about fractions here... price on ammo ? I'm not sure you are really talking a whole lot of difference,..you shoot enough you will reload and component wise the only difference will be a maybe 6-8 less rounds per pound of powder... bullets, brass and primer cost will be about the same Some will argue the .308 is a "refined" .30-'06 and therefore part of the natural evolution ,..more efficient and in a shorter action for stiffness and a quicker followup shot with a bolt gun... it is a personal preference thing really They both have their proponents and their opponents I like the '06 myself. Neither cartridge will be fading from the scene or lack factory loadings anytime soon.. (the next argument you may here is the M-1 vs. the M-14 (M1A) but that is for a different discussion over another cup of coffee) Buy one,..load one,..and Send them Enjoy shooting and don't fret too much over the caliber question John

Had it happen to me on a Gold Cup that series 70 finger bushing cracked and locked up hard,..it happened with those finger bushings,.. had a local 'smith fit up a Kart NM bushing and problems went away,... still shooting strong after 20 years... John And then there was the Officers Model Series 80 firing pin safety lever,.. but that is another story and that gun is gone... 2 Colts out of the 5 I own or have owned,.. so enough about " cheap MIM parts..." no matter the "quality" your still playing the odds with a piece of machinery made by a human running a machine...

Yep Coonan made the .357 and so did Desert Eagle in .38(Rare) .357 .41 Magnum(also rare) and .44 Magnum The Matrix actually has some great Slow-Mo footage of a DE being fired...

the Original .38SPLs for Bullseye shooting were "wadcutter" guns back when the US Military had .38 in the supply line it was found that it produced less recoil for the "2700" aggregate matches where you fired 3 900 point matches 1 with a .22LR 1 with a centerfire gun ( usually a revolver and usually double action) and the third with a 1911 in .45ACP for a total of 2700 points now a days I believe they use modified 9mm for centerfire as the Air Force were the last to still use the .38and have stopped.. Gunsmiths such as Clark Sr. Giles and Day set a .38Spl barrel in a 1911 and to make them work used mid-range "flush seated" wadcutters, viewed from the side the casing looks empty they work fine because the rim from the round above sets forward of the rim below in the magazine,.much like the .303 Enfields the British Military used for over 100 years the reason the .38SPL guns and the S&W M-52 only hold 5 rounds is simple... Bullseye matches only load 5 rounds at a time... their "finnickyness" is due more to the tight tolerances to milk out the potential accuracy than the actual cartridges rim. My S&W M-52 left the factory with a 2" @50Yds. (Machine Rest) Guarantee as all of them did and after adjusting the load it works almost flawlessly but your reloads better be the best you can make because these guns will show ANY error and their reputation will remove any "excuses" you can give to your shooting buddies that are gun related.. the .38Super is semi-rimmed and you want to make sure if you have an older .38ACP or Super.38 that loads meant for an IPSC racegun don't find their way anywhere near those old timers.. think classic car and drag racing car IPSC .38Super is wayy hotter requiring custom barrels and such to contain the pressures and velocities of .357 Mag. levels.. Welcome to the Forum,. John

Just remember most of those charts are for one handed shooting, Shooting with two hands changes the dynamics,.. Consistency is good as long as it is consistent improvement Enjoy your 1911

Pictures of the targets and some here can read them,... does it hit where it is pointed from a rest ? fixed or adjustable sights ?

2 Herters PowerMags,.. love em enough to cut up perfectly good rifle brass to make .401 Herters casings for them.. someday I will make some new grips instead of the Bakelite ones they now wear..

If all I owned were 5" 1911's I would agree with the above, other than to make it a bit more muzzle heavy it doesn't do much for reliability, but a compensated gun without a guide rod sucks to reassemble without one..and on a bushing comp gun I have not found a way to do it since the comp closes over the bushing.. But since I do own 2 race guns, I like the setup to change springs to suit the event the 5" is attending....

Going to sound crazy but,... OAL is as long as the magazine will allow then back off a couple thou. look at the Factory 230's in a mag ( probably the std. 1.260" OAL )... Hmmm yep about that long there's your profile to work with the JHPs will be shorter OAL but the round still has to feed up that tube into the other chamber my 240 JPHs for Pins are shorter but if held next to each other they hide behind one another keep any other bullet design inside of the FMJ profile and it should feed fine.. if you can see the other bullet, your JHP, behind a factory 230 then shorten it up until it hides. and I crimp to .003 below resized so resize a case, measure and subtract .003 for final crimp, I am not getting into the argument about case mouth and headspace here, the extractor does the job of holding case to breechface and the length of cartridge keeps it square to the breechface I have fired overtrimmed cases in my 1911 to the point they look like a .45GAP round ( downloaded to Bullseye power levels in the shorter cases of course) and .40S&W in my 10mm to prove this is a valid point with no ill effects.. The only Pistol brass I trim are for my S&W M-52 and that is because crimp in a .38SPL wadcutter gun affects accuracy several thousand rounds IPSC and Bullseye have proven this to be a winning combination in my world Don't dream of carrying hand loads for protection,.. Your R&D budget is no match for the folks that do ammo for a living...

I think most glock owners have done that once or so,..had to "retime" my glock like that once.....

Mine all wear a Clark 2 pc Steel guiderods ... with a hole drilled in them for a paperclip to help takedown.. keeps the spring on the rod when you clean a comp gun.. You can do this for a 5" gun also you just need to have the recoil spring tunnel ridge cut look at the back of the "tube" where the plug goes,.. see the ridge ? it can leave it doesn't do anything. IPSC guns use a reverse plug on cone comps and bushing guns are sometimes cut like this so my 'smith cut my 5" Gold Cup slide so they all are the same now Brownells makes a cutter to take it out by hand works like a charm then it doesn't matter if its a 1 or 2 pc. rod called a recoil spring tunnel ridge cutter Servicing just got easier : 1. Lock pistol open 2. insert bent paperclip into hole in guide rod 3. release slide stop 4. remove slidestop,slide and then the guide rod comes out back of slide like the barrel set on bench, no need to argue with plug and spring leaving the bench without permission... You can also keep a few assemblies in different spring rates depending on what you are doing a light one for Bullseye or Steel Challenge type loads and a heavier one for IPSC, or Ball ammo and an extra heavy for Bowling Pins or hunting loads.. I used to have 2 as my 5" did double duty as a Bulsey gun and IPSC Limited for a few years Many years and many many rounds of ammo without a hitch... I can measure for the paperclip hole but some rods come pre-drilled,..I think Wilsons are...STI does/used to whole assemblies spring and all,. called recoilmasters John

I don't know about a series 80 allowing that because my 1911s are all match guns and have had that piece of liability (firing pin plunger and lift arm) removed ( had one on a carry gun fail once, thankfully at the range..) As far as I know the half cock is a secondary safety and should work it could be either an angular issue with the notch or sear nose or both or a sear spring needs to be replaced,.. I would handle this pistol with caution until I could get it checked by a gunsmith who knows 1911s an extra check, will it do it from full cock ? if so hammer and sear replacement time, you can get matched drop in sets that are pretty good ....it isn't worth an unintentional discharge John

Glock 23 What you think it says: “I am a serious shooter, dedicated to my sport and self defense and so I carry the most popular firearm in law enforcement.” What it actually says: Nothing,..it waits in silence and concealment for a day that we hope never comes but if it does, it will serve with pride and distinction Revolvers ( S&W M-10 and Colt Det. Spl. ) What you think it says: “This is a more elegant weapon from a more civilized age; I am a connoisseur of firearms akin to the Jedi Knights and their lightsabers.” What it actually says: S&W and Colt can live in peace on the same body..in mutual support feeding off the same speedloaders unless we need a "New York" reload...

Berdan Primer Suppliers and Dimensions Since there are several dimensions of Berdan's primer you will probably be best off to note headstamps and fire a few then look down inside yes they can be converted but with .308 I don't see the need to yet... and RCBS sells the Lachmiller (Pronounced... Latch-Miller) tool to remove the spent ones Berdan to Boxer Conversion Method - Handloading - Military Surplus Ammunition and Handloading - ParallaxBill's Curio & Relic and Military Surplus Firearms Forums - Message Board The quicker answer is to get out your dial calipers and set them to 0.210 " which is the standard size of a Large Rifle Primer according to CCI/Speer You will need to take into account crimping of the primer if it is circumferential instead of a 3 point crimp favored by HXP (Greek) etc. Berdan 3 point Hirtenberger crimped (according to website) As always there are variations in Surplus ammo so the usual "Be Careful" applies some of that could be MG ammo and loaded to a higher pressure so look the primers over for the usual flattening etc. John

Pics when you are done,.. I know this has been a "long term" project.. I think we talked way back on Snipershide.com about this John

They were good enough for Bill Wilson to build up into IPSC race guns back in the day. graycrait, the great thing about the 1911 pattern is that anyone can do almost anything to them the bad thing about a 1911 pattern is that anyone can do almost anything to them Since yours appears untouched by someone that shouldn't have done something to a great design ... it is a blank canvas make it do what you want it to... I have 5 and they all do what they do well but in different configurations. welcome to the "Clan of the 1911"