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Well, Some say the .401 Herters was a few years earlier than the .41 and I do use .41 Data so I guess I could be counted as a .41 Mag user... John

tight chamber or short throat,.. you might need to taper crimp them a bit more.. hold a round up to a straight edge and see if all the "bell" is gone... if not tighten it up a smidge a short throat would leave marks on the bullet have you tried factory ammo yet ? if they work you have a sizing/crimp issue if they don't you may have a bad barrel/tight chamber it should feed factory which follows SAAMI Spec. Glocks have big chambers,.not sure about STI but it stands to reason it may be more of a "service" dimension instead of a "Match" tolerance , not an C.O.L. issue but a diameter issue.. If they weren't feeding I would check the feed ramp for smoothness, should look and feel like a mirror... John

I do it with rifle ammo,.. you don't want ANY case lube on those or in the chambers not only do you pick up dust and dirt before chambering...it also does funky things with pressure on your bolt face and has broken bolt lugs in some cases I have even polished up some that have "aged" on the shelf,.. 30 mins. or so and look like new.. John

I guess that's why I always used "Old Reliable" when I shot for money...errr side matches Winchester 1897 30" full if it didn't go bang,.. the primer was dead. I guess my point was that he should try as many different shotguns as possible because 'as you know' if he gets one he don't like or isn't absolutely reliable life on the range sucks....been there hope he doesn't have to visit..but it seems a right of passage in this fraternity.. John

Well lets think about it in a reasonable way. Durability,.. lasts a long time with normal use and care,.. lots of Surplus GI 1911's still out there shooting plenty well..I know of a 1912 that will still hold 8" at 50 ft. Accuracy,.. shoots straight enough to get the job done...Bullseye guns MUST shoot tighter than a carry gun Reliability,.. works almost every time ( I have seen specs for # of Malfs. per so many 1,000 rounds)...depends on who you read,this will effect the lineup when they run the final report You will have to set your parameters as to what you need and that will decide where your line is,.. any gun rag will tell you a nighthawk will out perform a PT1911 but if your needs are filled by the PT1911 then invest the rest in practice/training/competition to improve, we all want the latest Ed Brown but some old shooter with a beat up,half finish gone,mags in his back pocket and a $3.00 Uncle Mike's holster will out shoot it if it isn't run by someone who practices... My 10mm Delta Elite has countless thousands of rounds through it,.no peening or cracks..so it is mostly cold blued and looks a bit "ratty" thanks to a Bar Sto will shoot straighter than anyone who has ever shot it, including some nationally ranked shooters the handful of stoppages have been traced back to ammunition problems or magazines that should have been retired for me it is the top of the pile... Others won't give the time of day to a DE or any other 10mm I also have a 5" 1911 that hits what I point it at and has for 25 years and always goes bang,.. but it is by definition a "frankengun" only colt parts are barrel and slide(Gold Cup) and frame ( a standard 70 Series ) Either pistol would be my first choice, neither has a Pedigree they are mutts but they fill the duties they were selected for.. So my question to you is,..... what you gonna do with it ? Carry ? Competition ? Paper and cans at the rock quarry ? around the house ? these will all affect what will work best and where the "cut line" is drawn.. John P.S. Keep in mind that the 1911 and its variants are the most "customized" pistols out there,.. some good smiths and some glorified parts changers have all tried a 1911 be careful when purchasing used,..go with someone who knows what to look for to avoid buying one that won't feed because some "hack" thought there shouldn't be a 1/32" flat from feed ramp to barrel lip when he "polished" it..

on most inertia resetting triggers a quick flip of the safety to on then off will get you to the second barrel about as fast as the selector lever on a mechanical gun,my Condor does.. I have found that if you have a misfire on the first barrel by the time you react and correct,..its over and the bird is missed/gone unless your mechanical selector switches automatically or the birds are deep in the decoys

I started out with an old 1897 Winchester I bought for $75.00 moved up to a Beretta A390ST Semi I found used for around $525.00 I hunt ducks with a Stoeger Condor Supreme O/U that I polished the chambers/forcing cones on and added Carlson chokes to it..though it will work fine on the clays range..and it is in the O/U world "economical" I can safely say you should try before you buy,.. the clubhouse should have a "loaner" gun and some folks will let you try theirs,.. and the clubhouse wall usually has a few for sale ,... Beware.. a Beretta DT-10 Trident or anything Perazzi or Kreighoff will have you looking at mortgaging the farm the M-500 "universal" stock geometry is less than fun to shoot however I have seen some folks get them fitted and they are a whole different feel and do very well in knocking things out of the sky..all it takes sometimes are shims or a touch with a file.. Fitment is everything with a shotgun you could restock and get an old J.C. Higgins single shot fitted to you add a poly choke and out shoot some expensive shotguns that don't fit their owners well.. In the end it is a very personal choice as to what to use... I went duck hunting the other day with the Beretta and am thinking of buying a box of "classic doubles" for the 1897 before the season is out.. and if I ever get the money up I will get another O/U and restock to match the dimensions of a Parker that has been in the family 5 generations... John P.S. after trying a few,.set a budget and get the highest quality you can,..remember these are investments...

Originally got it at Dick's Sporting Goods,... they discontinued it when the went to the Field&Stream line though they look like an option..Old Town has one that's 12 ft. I think also.. Perception American Angler 11.0 dry weight is 46 Lbs. I think,.. easy to carry to the water and load up I think I draw 6 or 7" when full loaded A kayaking buddy just got one at Gander Mtn. in Bowling Green on Black Friday I think...they don't show it on website though..not sure how much he paid though I got mine showroom model on clearance for 375 (no paddle no spray skirt etc.) 3 years ago. I want to say his was 450 or so with paddle and PFD. but again that was Black Friday Sales price.. it is 11 ft. long 27" wide load rated for 350 Lbs. large cockpit so it is easy to move around and holds 6 decoys in the after compartment.. blind bag in cockpit and have fun... BTW if you get "inspected" by a bass boat coming too close it is very stable but you should still know how to keep right side up it can get rough John

Mostly Remington,... tore it down and found 3 E marked pieces Eddystone... no biggie can always replace them later if the spirit moves me.. I was amazed at the wood when I got it home and in decent light 92 years ago they had some awesome trees

sorry about the typo,.. damn fingers... John

Depending on which surplus ammo he has most of it will be around 2700 fps. so the range may consider it OK John P.S. welcome to the forum,.. knowledge is power so here's a few links to get your research started on the rifle and its ammo 7.62x54r.net

M1917 the "American" Enfield Thought you Crufflers would like to see some old iron... John

good thread,.. I am still using up my 155 LSWCs (500 or so) and Winchester Super-Lite powder ( 3 Lbs. or so)from leftover stockpiling then I get to play "find a new favorite" 155@ 1350 fps. used to shoot USPSA/IPSC with this loading...out of a comp gun was a bit snappy in a stock delta elite John

Welcome to the "10mm Sickness" if you hand load comparing the .40 vs. 10mm is like .38 vs. .357 however most folks experience is with factory loadings which make them look like "twin sons of different mothers" I can make my 10 do anything a .40 can do for about the same price... oh,.wait I can make 200gr. bullets go very fast....yeah I can do that too... Maybe I shouldn't say how fast I got a 135gr. JHP moving...LOL John

for those of them that insist on small bullets,..in a .380 platform bottleneck it.... here's the 32 NAA North American Arms I will stick with my .40 or .45 thanks...

one other thought to keep in mind,... if you should be on an extended hunt or as most of us have, whether we admit it or not, forget ammo,.. what can you buy down at the local store.... I love using my .401 Herters but if I forget ammo I am out of luck,.. same as any of your "uncommon " rifle calibers... and by uncommon I mean not a Wal-Mart or Dick's shelf item.. 12 Ga. is universal so not much of a choice there for Turkey as they are a shotgun bird Rifle,.. I use an -06 I also like my .303 Brit mainly because those 2 calibers have "done it all" if I travel I take the -06 mainly because of ammo availability in a Mom&Pop store in "neverheardof,Tenn._ of course if you always double check your gear before you go and pack extra ammo the choice is wide open... John

I wish I had pics of one I built but here it goes from memory,.. 2"x2" cleats and 2"x8" boards most closets have a 3 wall side to one end,.. set the cleats into the studs and then screw the 2x8s to the cleats you can cover with a thin layer of door skin (luan) also add shelving as needed,..doesn't cost much I imagine you could also use a clearance piece of counter top instead of the 2x8s was nice as when I moved out a little joint compound in the screw holes and no damage to walls,.. also out of sight out of mind put the safe in the other end if the closet so it was my mini-gun room John P.S. was very solid mounting for a 550 used to load -06 for my M-1 and resizing those in a Dillon will torque a bench !

This may surprise you...... HOME DEPOT actually a leftover piece of 3" "soft" PVC pipe from the plumbing section,..they sell it in 2 ft. lengths it has a hard inner and outer skin with a hard foamy inside says not for pressure on it.. and a bit of Krylon.. with 2 1/4" x20 bolts holding it down.. cut in this shape it holds securely but as you draw it naturally rolls the gun upright to clear the "horns" I would trim any burlap to just cover and slightly over edges of the deck though ice forms easy and if you get too top heavy........

Careful or you will end up with a "Smython" or a "Smolt"

I have tried in the warm water weather to flip it,without the gun and have to really work at it, it usually spits me out before it will go "total turtle" .. at 11 ft. long and 27" wide it is actually pretty stable,which makes re-entry easier ..although I do avoid broadside shots,why tempt fate? ? Most kayaks you see that folks roll are longer/narrower and more round in profile, this boats midsection is more oval with a flat spot on the bottom... The way it is mounted the gun sits so low it is out of the way of the paddle which is on a leash and simply dropped overboard when you go for the gun the cockpit is deceptively long which makes the gun look like it is further back than it is, the butt is actually about 6-9" away from my belly which puts it right where you want it and balances out the 3 to 8 decoys and gear I can carry in the aft compartment the shooters bag sits in the hull between my knees under the deck..padded floating case goes down the inside along the hull for the trip out and back... John

I have heard of some folks doing it,. I started floating open water because you get that cluster that loves to hang out in the middle where you can't reach ,.. since drifting is legal ( no motor or sail power, but if the current /wind do it it is OK ) you just head upwind and let nature take its course pushing you into range if the birds aren't too spooked,.. sometimes you get to watch them fly away.... sometimes they fly into range sometimes not..

quietly slipping into backwaters where the big boats can't go or drift hunting a raft up in open water.... Last thing a duck/goose will see is the O/U coming out of the "holster" Have shot geese by drifting close to them with another kayak,.. this one works better (bigger) and the deck mount will keep things accessible yet under control, last time I had to get the gun out from inside the cockpit Much safer now... Usually the motion of the draw will kick them up so no, I am not water raking them.... they are up when they get shot at.

The reason for asking about the rifle is that longer barrels of rifles sometimes can be loaded with powders other than a handgun would be able to use in 4 or 6 " I was referencing the Contender load data which in Lymans 49th. Handbook they had some different loads due to the Contenders longer barrel working better with slower powders.. The Only reason I have to justify SRPs is using the .38 Super at the old IPSC Power Factor loadings to make the 175 MAJOR listing,.. SAMMI was out the window these are the Top Fuel Dragsters of the Handgun world... and I found through experimentation that all my revolvers will set off the SRPs no problem so I standardized my inventory my G23 in .40 will also work just fine.. I have also found that if you Taper Crimp instead of roll crimp,Plated bullets will run fine at higher velocities,.. another IPSC experience...those 125's ran out of my Super for a season or 2 on top top of HS6 powder,.. at around 1425 to 1450 FPS then I went Limited Division with a 10mm These loads should never find their way into a standard off the shelf gun...casings are marked and that ammo never goes to a "fun day" events,to matches only where I can control their whereabouts Sometimes I need to remember IPSC reloading isn't "standard" and some folks are uncomfortable with the numbers these guns run at... Regular ammo for regular guns like the 586 or his rifle should stick to manuals,.... but for the .357 I will stick to 2400 John

the 1894 is a rifle correct ? this may explain the load data differences,.. I know they list different loads for a TC Contender in the Lyman manuals (due to their long barrels and no cyl. gap etc.) check to see if they list rifle loadings in your manuals I haven't used H-110 so I am not sure how it handles.. I have a 6" S&W 586 I load 17.0 gr. 2400 with a Small Rifle Primer and a 125 gr. plated TC bullet taper crimped .. I picked up on using the Small Rifle Primers from my .38Super IPSC gun.... I worked this load up in MY gun,.. our mileage may vary John

only time I got concerned with nickel cases was when I shot USPSA/IPSC when we found the powder bullet combo I had shot different in brass vs. nickel cases the brass casings, if I remember right, posted faster than nickel perhaps due to how the casings expanded and sealed the chamber...the nickel plating makes then a tad more brittle this explains the splitting sooner than just brass.. other than that,..load em and shoot em John