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I did something like this with a MESA adapter then added a maverick 88 trigger group (drops in) which put the safety down in front of the trigger guard,..became scary fast nice HD John

Yogi,.. heres some ideas for your setup.. Above all I am a strong advocate of a Reloading Notebook or Notebooks ( caliber specific ) do not rely on your memory when you get back from the range with that "Awesome" loading... details lots of details crimp settings,OAL etc. Scale: a good beam type scale doesn't require electricity and is dead accurate RCBS Dillon or Ohaus are good brands Primer flip tray : Dillon Precision best tray I have ever used Aluminum and large enough to get a good swirl going.. Kinetic bullet puller : hammer looking device,.this is one of those tools thats "either or" you either have used one or you will use one Powder measure : I use a Lyman #55 for single stage reloading nice if you can find one... RCBS Uniflow,Hornady makes one also then theres the wonderful world of progressive presses,... I use an older Dillon RL450 with some upgrades for most of my pistol and rifle ammo, .44Spl/.44Mag and .38Spl..357Mag can be loaded on same dies without adjustment if you make spacer washers so save some $ on dies For Semi Auto cals. I use a separate taper crimp die after the seating die I also taper crimp my revolver ammo,some folks insist on roll crimping to prevent heads shaking out and jamming the revolvers.. When you get set up try this; load a round with a proper roll crimp and one with a taper crimp ..pull them with your new kinetic bullet puller ( see told you you would need one ) and see how many strikes it takes to pull each type..then decide which crimp for your revolver rounds.. .223 will require some added accessories a case trimmer and case lube, run an unlubed case into a resizing die and you will be unhappy A case Tumbler,.. removes dirt and grit from range brass and powder residue from the casings leading to smoother reloading and longer case/die life polished brass is slippery use this to your advantage FLITZ is a good way to polish insides of dies,.. a bore mop of proper size and a drill ... few seconds and boom good as new... on a progressive press a small light to look into the powder charge station to doublecheck for proper powder charge is a good idea... Welcome to your new addiction... John

when in doubt,... cast it out.... saving a few bucks on reloads isn't worth risking an ER visit and a blown pistol pull them and reload to a ball equivalent or a slightly lower loading even if this means buying a different powder and not using your stockpile of "clays" the other option is to mark the head stamp area with a sharpie and use for malfunction drills, as long as you are SURE they won't get stuck in the barrel ( KaBoom possibility # 2 ) John

Sorry I am old school I still call it the ATF I guess when they renamed it they shuffled the letters to sound cooler the website is afte wonder what scrabble letter they will be adding next

Does it come with screw in chokes ? Seriously,.. nice conversion.. John

And folks look at me funny because there's a bag on the side of my range bag,and they ask what it is.. " for when things go bad " I also try to avoid public ranges,..seen more muzzles in the last 3 years than the 22 years preceding.. may that IFAK and my Glock 23 turn to dust before having to be called for there primary intended purpose.. until then they will be ready to do their job I just hope/pray and train so when the time comes I will be as ready.. John

May our prayers and condolences give you some comfort in these trying times,.. sorry to hear about your loss John

Found this while searching for a head stamp on a range find Here's some help from the ATF to help you identify your "range finds" AFTE Headstamp Gallery figured it is a safe thing to post since my tax dollars paid for this John

most houses will be 10 yds. or less so thats a good thought however bore offset will be a possible issue the sight being higher than the bore by say 2" and may not adjust down enough causing low hits ( bullet has no chance to rise to EoTechs line of sight that close ) and if you are close to cover the sight will see clear but bullet path may be obstructed by a chair back, book case etc. USPSA shooting with an optically sighted pistol taught me that lesson ( disqualification for shooting props closer than 3 ft. I think the distance was ) and any bullet can be deflected which is bad. 10 yds with a rifle would probably be more instinct then precision... the thoracic triangle is almost a foot tall by a foot at the base....or as I used when helping a few shooters,.. hold a paper plate up centerline with the human form with the base of that plate resting on an imaginary horizontal line from one nipple to the other because most ranges don't mind if you shoot at paper plates but balk heavily at humanoid or any kind of target they are not used to. Just a thought... John

I wouldn't say Damascus,.. I would say "Natural Engraved / Enhanced" John

I prefer this story of a guns life.. S&W Model 10 Military & Police Revolver: A gun’s autobiography64 John

Bought my Chinese one back in the early 90's has the issued red fiberglass stock (jungle issue I am told) with sling and cleaning kit and a wood stocked one for my Dad both for $112.00 handy carbine class rifle ballistics are somewhere around a .30-30 if I remember correctly.. John

I find it hard to take a statement like that at face value.. kind of like the old Ford vs. Chevy argument... My SKS with handloads should outshoot an AK with millitary ball ammo... a new AK should outshoot an old worn SKS too many variables to say with any authority a statement that encompassing... I do know my "as issued" Chinese SKS prefers the bayonet be on the rifle in the folded setting for best accuracy even then as long as I don't need to hit a deer sized target ( 8" kill zone ) any further than say 100-150 yds. it will do fine. However for smaller or farther targets I have other rifles that WILL outshoot an AK or SKS and hit the target harder but that is outside the scope of your question... John

Keep in mind going BELOW posted data is sometimes as hazardous as going ABOVE.. Some powders don't like lots of air space.. WW 296 comes to mind.. pressures spike... KBoom no bueno. John

you hit any snags PM me,.. I have built a few..might be able to help.. John

To borrow a line from Obi-Wan.... "You will go to the Amazon system. There you will learn from Kuhnhausen, the Jedi Master who instructed me. " Amazon.com: The Colt .45 automatic: A shop manual (0715889000026): Jerry Kuhnhausen: Books a good shop manual.... as long as the slide...slides without binding you will be OK there are other areas to worry about...remember it is a military design not like your building a Colt Python.. so it is a good "starter" to try your hand at gunsmithing..just remember safety first.. for just a shooter,.. its easy to assemble parts and get it running,.. a "match" gun on the other hand...welcome to the insanity... John more notes... http://www.m1911.org/technic.htm includes Brownells HOW to build a 1911 series..

Nobody ever willingly stepped in front of a 230 RN at 855 fps. but I load : 5.7 WW 231 with a 200 gr. LSWC the classic "Mickey Fowler" loading.. 6.9 Power Pistol with a 240 JHC Sierra ( old bowling pin load ) you don't want to know what I load my .38Super to.... but then again it was built to be a hot rod..and it is not in any load manual the gun has been running for 20 years.. maybe replaced hammer/sear twice... I have to side with Dolomite on this one.. but I'm not looking to start a conflict, just my experience and thousands of rounds at matches shows if it is built to run hard it will run hard but reloading for these guns is not for a beginner.. back to original posters question.. for handguns it is like real estate,..location,location,location.... almost any bullet out of a .45 will do the job but nothing will work as a peripheral hit. And a "one shot stop" is a myth,.that's why JMB gave you a magazine..use them until your foe falls.... John

AVOID chemical acids it will tear your brass up...Ammonia especially tend to make the brass brittle and uneven in thickness... another route that the Pros use I have heard is a cement mixer and lots of media... sort of a rolling tumble.. maybe modify a dryer ? I used to use BRASSO in my media and found long polishing times made for shorter brass life,... it contains ammonia and when you use mid-range .38SPL and have a problem you know your brass is bad.. glad I learned before loading my 10mm and 38Super for IPSC back when the PF was higher.. that would have ruined my day...

Ah,.. the black bullets... my .38 Super loves them my .45 likes the 5.7 of 231 with a 200gr. LSWC the "Mickey Fowler" load.. DO NOT put this load behind a 230 OK when you crimp you do shrink the dia.a bit but only where the casing ends then when fired they ( bullets) are grabbed by the rifling which is less than bore diameter and the pressure and heat flare the base and to a degree the rest of the bullet to a tight fit sealing in propellant gasses. when I use a new projectile I pull out a BALL round I have and selecting the Round nose seating plug set the die using the BALL round..this gives me an approx. outline to use.... then I set the round behind the BALL round and look at the 2 profiles no new projectile should be outside the BALL profile then I swap out the seating plug for the one matching the projectile say flat for that LSWC and load a few dummies... hand cycle and if successful load 100 or so and fire check them then one of those unused dummies is marked and stored for later reference.. The 1911 was designed for a 230 gr. RN BALL round at 855 FPS. .so the logic is that if it is profiled like it it any new projectile should feed ,..sometimes I will admit it does need some adjusting but for the most part it works...just adjust powder levels, as you have,to adjust for your combustion chamber and go from there... John

Pistol brass,..brass variance isn't as crucial as rifle for accuracy commercial head stamp or lot # age etc. UNLESS you are going for elimination of as many variables to "make sure it is you" in a match , confidence in equipment is very important... or Nuclear hot ammo ( redline) we used to shoot PPC and Bullseye a lot when I was young,.. tried all the various tricks and found that with our pistols at least... just a good sound repeatable technique while reloading was the biggest factor in ammo and from a Ranson rest the brass was the least of our variables... good components and good technique are all that is needed BTW one of our guys, a nationally ranked shooter , could actually shoot higher scores with a load that wasn't in the top 3 of our Ransom rest test.. it just "felt" better to him, nothing like doing mounds of work and have someone like this do something like this to remind you that the human element changes everything.... John P.S. Since you have brass that's the same and assorted,.. load up some test ammo and have someone "blind load" your pistol for you and see if your shooter/ammo/pistol combination can tell the difference we used to do this when testing a possible new load for the upcoming season. it keeps you as neutral as possible during testing, then load up for your assistant and see if there are any repeatable results you may have a combo that is affected by brass or not,..but at the very least you will know for certain if it matters in your setup..

I use Walnut media to clean then : for rifle...tumble first then you can clean primer pockets,trim to length and inspect for head separation etc. in one step.... then you run it through the reloading process like pistol ammo pistol ammo tumble and reload no trimming and never had to worry about primer pockets unless it is my S&W 52 ... that gun made a masochist out of me but it shoots oh so sweet so it gets the trimmed prepped brass like a rifle..same lot# on brass etc. then corncob to clean off lube after they are loaded,..maybe 15 mins. or so and puts a final shine on them.. only bottlenecks stretch straight wall casings tends to shrink if anything... John

only ammo I seal is my duck hunting ammo,..because sooner or later it will get we. strange look from the Mrs. the first time I asked if she had any polish she was not needing anymore... and the guys in the blind know which shells are mine when they hit the deck.. John P.S. long term ammo storage for me is a .50 cal. can and some dessicant packs... then again back in the 90's when I was up in New England rain,snow etc. I did find one of my old .45 ACP rounds I dropped at my range a year later no sealant of any kind.....it went bang when I pulled the trigger..felt like the other 6 in the gun and went into the same group...so unless they will be submerged,.. wouldn't worry about it..

Depending on what they are coated with they may stick during a drop check lube or lead will do this plated/jacketed will not.. you would notice if you put each of these projectiles on the bench unloaded that the RFP or sometimes called TC truncated cone will be about as short as the difference in your OAL so your internal volume should be similar.. my only concern would be powder charge levels of plated vs. coated lead but without seeing what the "coated" means....and what you are shooting them out of. as long as your not maxed out on powder charge you should be ok I used to shoot Raniers and lead out of my 10mm with the same powder charge but my lead supplier made them very hard cast softer lead would have had to be worked up to... Just remember you do have variables to contend with you may want to load a few and work up to your ideal load as a precaution, beats having a pressure spike due to lead vs. plated then again it may not be a problem for your powder charge/gun combination but why chance it say 5 each from minimum charge up to where everything is "happy" keep notes and stay safe John

The great thing about an '06 is that it along with the .303 Brit has killed probably every living thing on the planet.... in short they work because they are very versatile... rabbits to Grizzlies depending on the ammo.. What are you planning to hunt ? and what distance is the planned engagement ? 168 grs. will work well on most mid sized thin skinned animals out to as far as the skill of the rifleman and his gear can take it. my '06 loaded with Hornady AMAX 178's and IMR 4064 will take coyotes out beyond 400 yds. but overkill for deer in this area,.. for that you could use lighter bullets loaded down a bit now if I were heading "out west" for larger animals... heavier skinned etc. then 200-220 gr. with an eye towards penetration would be more fitting.. The Winchester Featherweight will probably "outshoot" us all make sure the action, scope base and mounts are solid (Loc-Tite is your friend,blue..or you will have problems should you ever disassemble) then find a load it likes from a solid 2 point rest then buy or load up some practice ammo and work on your basic fundamentals also dry fire.. dry firing is under practiced and underrated by most shooters... all this is homework and when you finally have the shot before you well that's test day let your game and range decide the ammo, then make your adjustments,practice and know your abilities and gear first then go get your clean kill... John P.S. remember when the target goes from paper to a living being,or a competition.. most folks groups open up a bit some even larger,..so strive for the smallest groups on the range practicing and it also wouldn't hurt to study some anatomy..

not quite my idea of government "downsizing" but it could work,...