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I tend to go lightly on the chamfering after trimming just enough to break the edge and remove any trim flash (?) not to make a razor ring out of it.. I also tend to trim long so the calipers read to the fat side of a trim to length, a thou or so. John

The one thing you will find in this hobby is that 3 people will have 5 ways to do something so theres alot of choices out there...except maybe that everyone weighs their charges I use a Dillon 550 measure for my pistols/rifles and an old Lyman Universal for my single stage work,when working up loadings..both get adjusted before a loading session every time, and checked with 2 scales . At the risk of starting something on the trickle/don't trickle argument I don't trickle any of my ammo but I do check every so often while loading to verify nothing changes. I tried trickling several years ago and didn't notice an appreciable difference for the work put into trickling..my M-1 didn't shoot any tighter neither did either of my custom 13 Lb. 03A3s ( however weighing bullets to +/- 0.01 of a grain did..) and my PPC revolver and M52 Smith still group in the X rings (was more of a crimping issue) .. some folks rigs do show improvements when they trickle though so try it and see if you like it.. then again I am not shooting benchrest or F-Class competition.. for those tips and arguments you can peruse 6mmbr.com consistency of press operation in the case of a 550 or other progressive / consistent actuation of powder dispenser in the case of single stage loading will effect the powder charge more so than the measure being a disk or adjustable Always verify what you are doing before you run off 100 or so,..saves time later with a puller or a hospital visit.. Stay safe John

BPE,.. Always go by weight,. I even use 2 scales and check weights to verify my charges.. you will learn as you progress however that if you are looking for the higher end loadings/performance there is another piece of equipment and its own set of signs you look for and that is a chronograph that in itself is a whole 'nother post so I will leave it for now. CC and the LEE method I believe was developed back in the early days of handloading when hunters would take a small kit and handloading was done without a press like we have these days and they used dippers , I think LEE still sells the kit and for hunting camp CC is an easier safer alternative to carrying a relatively fragile scale etc. My father started out with one,the shop owner gave it to him to try and said "you will be back for the Lyman" sure enough story goes Dad went back after a few weeks .. I now own that "old gray Spartan" press we have since moved on to Dillon 450/550s but the OGS still gets use.. It seems funny to me though that when you think of it you are measuring by weight and charging by volume, always have from back in the muzzleloader days to the highest end rifles out there on the firing line today... As to why you were a whole grain off on your reloads using the CC method,I would call LEEs tech line and ask them for any tips,hints or tricks that we may have missed... then I would make a note ,put it in the box and use the scale to do my hand loading Welcome to a whole new addiction,with endless combinations of powder,bullet and firearms where one change can make for entirely different results.. John

back when I used to run BP I just filled proper amount of loose powder into empty .45-70 shells and used them like speedloaders found my rifle shot better with loose vs. pellets probably due to the fact that you had infinite more options of charge weight vs. preformed powder slugs... John

too much crimp in my world.. seat the bullets flush with case mouth and roll over edges if you must roll crimp,.. they should look like empty cases when viewed from the side, experiment with degree of crimp from straight edge to as much as you have there with the shorter seating depth,..do not alter the sides of that bullet design it doesn't like you doing that.

youch,...thats a problem, seat flush and try taper crimping to 368" to .370" load development I always do starting with a large target, or large clean target backer (cover backer with butchers paper,cardboard etc. ) who knows one of the loads could have been a tight group 6" left or right and barely missed the paper.. I believe taper crimping makes brass last longer but at these pressures it is a moot point..

BigK, The only way I have been able to get them to work with a roll crimp is to seat them just below flush and substantial roll crimp,..as written in Gil Hebard's "TEST FIRE REPORT" (Gun Digest 1963) I found measuring how much crimp,..problematic and hard to repeat I gave up and went with a taper crimp of .370" which he also mentioned and I find for my M52 more consistent in my case loaded with the 2.7 grs. of Bullseye after uniforming the casings to 1.142" Also experimented with WW231 and Hi-Skor 700X and IMR PB powders..all loaded to around 750-850 fps I also experimented with trimming casings to 1.120" and seating to an OAL of 1.142" as some of the '52s owners have but didn't see that great an improvement, but did speed loaded in my PPC revolver easier it seemed. What kind of accuracy are you looking for? What problems are you having ? grouping ? key-holing ? these 148's will perform once you find your formula so don't give up hope ! John P.S. The right formula in a S&W M-52 will net you 10 shot groups in the 2"-3" @ 50 Yards and I have seen a few PPC revolvers do smaller than that under ideal conditions..

would post mine but it is old enough to vote,. and almost old enough to drink,..still shoots every time and where the sights are pointed.... some wear ,.. but your basic 1993 vintage model 23 no rails, not finger bumps,..nothing fancy...bought with a Tax Refund to show my support for the then upcoming Clinton Violent Crime Control and Law Enforcement Act of 1994 seemed like a good idea at the time..gun is still here Bill is gone... both of them just a Glock before marketing got to it with "new Improved Gen X " mentality... John

Find some local reloaders that will show you and let you try their gear,.. there are plenty of M-1 Garand forums that will promote suitable loads,.. it was designed for IMR 4895 @ 2700 fps. with a 147-150 gr fmj I found you only need "small base" dies if you have a match chamber,. I am not a big fan of overworking brass which if you have a mil spec chamber standard dies will do .. I reload on a Dillon 450 but I also reload about a dozen or so calibers for several rifles and handguns.. my belt for the M-1 holds 80 rounds and usually comes home empty,.. I decap and prep separately before loading so I guess you could call it a 2 stage progressive setup decap/resize,decrimp( if needed) trim... then ( usually on a separate session) setup and load as normal without a sizing die in station #1 my bullet choice since it is a 1957 rearsenal barrel are either Privi or Winchester bulk 147-150s do not go over 180 gr. the M-1 doesnt like it and last time I sandbagged it it shot 3" or so @ 100 yds. JeffL,.. thanks I was looking for that lost me bookmark,..rebookmarked now.. good info. John

Fatal shots with a handgun back up your statement nicemac, the immediacy of a shot from a handgun is the myth as it is not always immediate due to the fact that humans are fairly resistant to immediate incapacitation at the levels most handguns used for defense are capable of delivering.. though fatal shots put them in the ground,.. it doesn't always happen immediately or in .05 seconds after impacting.. It does you no good if the attacker dies after he deprives you or a loved one of their lives this is the issue with "stopping power" What I want to see from any form of tool for defensive purposes is the ability to remove the attackers desire for willful violence or force to do harm to me,.. be it a stick,my hands,a handgun/rifle/shotgun or even I guess if the situation needs it a Ford Taurus I want the attack to end as soon as possible so the "good guys" stay above ground and if the attackers have to be buried,..it was their choice.... even 5 seconds is too long if your on the receiving end of anything unpleasant, and 1 minute might as well be an eternity.. John P.S. posted while you were replying to TGO David..

as soon as these come in http://www.smh.com.au/ffximage/2006/08/22/sideways_gun_sight.jpg seriously though when I used to shoot USPSA/IPSC we would cant the pistols when firing one handed and referred to it as 1/4 Gangsta or 1/2 gangsta 3/4 gangsta depending on how much cant,.. of course full gangsta was horizontal and anything beyond (jokingly) was "pimp" as in 1/4 pimp was something like 110 Degree and 1/2 pimp was 135 Degree never saw anyone try a "full pimp" though LOL we left that for the trick shot artists John

when you reload almost no ammo is hard to find LOL just have to find the brass referred to a "parent case" and reform.. in the 9x20 it should be easy peasy .38 Auto/.38Super is 9x23 so a case trimmer and shorten to 9x20 and load as a 9x19 starting data and work up looking for pressure signs.. Lyman AccuTrimmer Kit with 9 Pilots - MidwayUSA if you get into reloading rifles,..you will need one anyways I use an old Lyman Universal my dad gave to me no telling how many casings have been through that shell holder.. John

fatality means they died,at some point .. stopping the threat means the defender usually didn't die there is the difference and I believe a fair distance between the two... what good does a "fatal gunshot" do if the attacker continues and kills the defender and those he/she is defending I agree he won't be attacking anyone else but I am sure if the defender was revived and asked "would you rather have a "fatal" hit or a "stopping" hit ?" They would probably have traded the fatal hit for a stopping hit that was also fatal,.. I would always go for a stopping hit and yes I believe bigger and more are better when it comes to stopping aggression, as in want it stopped dead NOW John

if it was sleeved to .380 why not have it punched back out to 9x19 if you have to reload anyways ,.. or back to 9x20 and cut down some .38ACP/Super brass to fit..and work up a loading ? would be better all around than trying to make a .380 do a 9mms job and brass is easier to come by if you go 9x19 just make sure you only run your ammo through it ,..I would think some of the hot 9mm would be lethal to that old timer.. John

when you get tired of Solomons Bars,dive deeper into decorative Marlinespike Seamanship.. Look up Clifford Ashley because it is hard to find old Bo'suns Mates this far inland.. also search out a blog by a guy calls himself STORMDRANE Enjoy your new addiction... John

Haven't dealt with them personally yet but... Have you looked in your own back yard ? $22.00 for 250 works out to $44.00 for 500 Hornady and I know for a fact the PPC revolvers and S&W M52 's love em... Champion's Choice - Product Catalog - Pistol Bullets Champion's Choice, Inc. 201 International Blvd LaVergne, Tennessee 37086

25 years ago I started shooting Bullseye with an old High Standard HD Military,.. then after breaking a 180 I think ..I was allowed to use either of my Dads M-41s I shot for several seasons with a 7" and the 5" field barrel versions using stock and Herrets grips..17 year olds can't make up their minds LOL. Then Dad let me run the 41-1 ( .22 short model ) which I shot for a season before scoring my own Bullseye pistol.. A Browning Medalist I am in no rush to inherit the 41's but I sure do miss being able to use them.... I also recently picked up a Ruger MK1 which is nice Now at 40 my Medalist and soon the Ruger will be wearing dot scopes both are bolt on mounts so they can be returned to the original condition... no drilling and tapping to these classics... In the end if I had to choose one my vote would go to the 41 with a 7" barrel ... and if you think the regular 41 is fussy with ammo ,.. the 41-1 is even worse,.guess thats why S&W never pursued the venture .. John Nice to see another Medalist owner on the boards

fit the stock to you,... buy a 20 " or another vent rib and cut to 22" and pattern it ... then decide if you need a choke system.. it looks like your barrel is ported which tosses you in with the unlimited guys (USPSA) or not eligible for IDPA,..not sure on the rules for IDPA so the other barrel cut to 22" will give you close to the same sighting plane,.. I am also a fan of mid rib beads so I see a figure 8 when I shoot and my guns are fit that way. heat shield is if you intend to roll the shotgun over to reload it ,.. like the Carlock shuffle if you plan on reloading while the shotgun is shouldered or held down and sideways then you won't need a heat shield..or you can use mechanics gloves.. hint on reloading the 500 if you use 2 3/4" shells you can get pretty quick loading 2 at a time.... It is kind of hard to explain in text and I am terrible with videos etc. but you roll the shotgun over and with 2 rounds in your off hand, brass facing you you drop the first one in then chase it with the second pushing with your thumb,.. be careful as the receiver sides can have a bit of an edge to them.. I have rounded mine a bit and black sharpied to hide the aluminum where I filed & sanded to break the edges once you get the rhythm down it goes quickly good luck and enjoy your shooting ! John

pin punches and new parts,.. I find my SKS actually shot straighter and grouped better with the bayo on and locked back ( not deployed) I can only guess it has some moderating effect on barrel harmonics or something to that effect. Good Luck on your restoration John

doubletap

easy a slick side has a bolt handle like a semi auto shotgun ( think Benelli ) thus no charging handle in the classic sense.. John

Not to totally derail this thread,.. but So, you can't imagine actually running your weapon dry, moving to better cover/concealment, and not wanting to give your new position away? Reload on the move and if you just ran it dry they probably know your in the area...always upgrade cover/concealment.. You can't imagine shooting suppressed from a concealed position and not being able to transition safely? if there close enough to hear you chamber a round they are too close,..either let them pass and gain distance or shoot fast amigo your tactics suck distance favors the better marksman.. You can't imagine having to find and fight with a battlefield pick-up after running both your primary and secondary weapons dry? chances of it being a stealthy situation are getting slimmer again a tactical consideration not a mechanical one.. you have to look at the probability of these situations, and realize sometimes you need another solution. Sun Tzu is a good reference to this. because they'll help folks like me survive longer by giving the zombies something to gnaw on... Stay Hungry my friend...I have lunch with Mr. Murphy on a regular basis. we aren't that diametrically opposed however I think we have a difference of opinion on how we would use our equipment Glad to meet ya and have a decent conversation... I can't see myself ever needing a FA to work an AR,... but then again my AR has one if I am ever in need..Murphy pointed it out to me over lunch one day.. Personally I would rather hang back about 300-600 meters and use my '06 who needs quiet ? BTW The 7 Ps is a British Army Adage:that actually incorporates the 8th. P Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents Piss Poor Performance back to the OP,... I would get the A3 upper if only for the shell deflector due to the fact that sometimes I do shoot southpaw and not all ammo exits the rifle either 90 degrees or forward of the bolt center line and I don't wish the possibility of a brass capped tooth John

Come again ? what in gods name if you are in a SHTF situation are you doing with an empty weapon ? I can not foresee any time in a "SHTF" situation any weapon would be unloaded and need to be loaded almost silently ...for any reason and if you can come up with a good reason,.theirs your reason for having a second weapon locked and loaded and ready Just checked my AR and I can chamber a round from bolt forward to retracted and return to battery without touching the FA,.. just easing the bolt forward there was enough spring pressure to chamber the round once it was out of the feed lips. But it was a lot noisier than clicking a safety off of a sidearm or secondary weapon.. John Please review the 7 P's of success with the added 8th. P PREPARATION

been carrying an Emerson CQC-7 for the last 11 years does all the cutting I need it to do. Last I checked a replacement would still be under $200.00 and they are coming out with an Auto version,.. too bad TN is backwards on auto knives. John

always thought the front sight posts were machined part of the barrel,.. then again mine were made over 20 years ago.. brass beads get polished occasionally John