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wonderful old S&W's they will outlast you.... One note as to the 19-3 they are .357 Magnums but the early design of the K-Frame ( yours are both considered K frames) led to a problem of broken barrels on the Magnums if fed a steady diet and eventually S&W came out with the L-Frames (taller and no flat spot at 6 o-clock on the barrel where the cylinder meets) I have a 19-6 in my safe with a split forcing cone,..it will still shoot but spits lead out of the forcing cone so it is retired until I get a replacement barrel.. Just passing on the info the S&W forums will have more details of these fine handguns now in your possession and they are , like this forum, a good bunch of folks willing to help a new "collector" Welcome to the club

I have seen folks shoot larger caliber ammo with those variances reliably and accurately.... OAL that close is fine and as long as they drop check in the chamber they will feed.. If you trim those casings you would be the first I have ever heard of trimming a .380 in 20+ years of reloading....not many folks trim pistol brass,..it just isn't worth it these days I only do it when I make obsolete brass for my Herters. I did some testing on a .45 Gold Cup with a refitted bushing a 10mm with a Barsto Barrel and my S&W M52 none of them showed a measurable difference as to accuracy or reliability, if any of them would have it would be the M52 they have a "reputation" of finickyness the joys of reloading,.. you can make yourself happy or equally crazy trying to control all the variables.. John

They also suggest against handloads etc. I own a 1962 Colt Detective Special and it has 6 rounds of +P in it.... now when I go to the range I do not shoot +Ps as a general rule...but when it comes time to rotate ammo I will send those 6 downrange to get a feel for the added recoil etc. Once you know it works with that ammo reliably you can shoot other ammo in practice and fill it up with your defensive ammo I have found the difference in Std. and +P ammo in my pistols to be a small part of the whole shooting experience during practice,.. shooting fast and without thinking about it it almost feels the same to me on my end however if I load up and concentrate on the actual shot being fired it seems quite different. I have run heavy loads in the past through a Colt Officers Model and it was a handful any way you sliced it... My thought on +P or not to +P is that if +Ps toss you around and your shot placement/recovery between shots is affected I would prefer 3 controlled hits to 2 with a long delay in between..and suggest the std. if on the other hand you can drive the gun with +Ps then by all means use the extra horsepower. in the end ..... only hits count.... John

it is a movie prop,.. when Ray Liottas character in Goodfellas was making the coke golf balls at the crazy chicks house.... Fugettaboutit..

Physics is still Physics... lots of variables,.. weight of firearm( mass), height of bore above center-line and barrel length(leverage), powder used, bullet composition etc. Muzzle energy is force light bullets tend to be more of a snap and heavy more of a push for a given ME ( rate of acceleration ) Also depends on how the shooter perceives it I am sure there are recoil formulas somewhere on the WWW I have never been one for recoil figuring I just load the bullet I need to get the job done and figure recoil is the price to pay for the ride...and the fun is in handloading a balance between the performance on both ends..

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if you are handy with a saw you can make a shelf that will hold them along the bottom of the toolhead below the middle ridge my Dad had a setup he made like that at the old house..not sure if he still has it.. I use a 450 so it is die boxes for me..

ID of ring in the "resizing area" not the cutout for the rim.. sorry I wasn't clearer in last post,.. it was kinda vague wasn't it...

my 20 year old Vintage Lee Load All II sizes at .803-.804" John

thought Pow-R-Ball was white/clearish if it is old enough it could be a Glaser Safety Slug which is now made by Cor-Bon also.. my old Cor-Bon (50 round white box,blue ends Detroit address) has a Winchester headstamp.. (10mm 150gr. @ 1300 fps.) got 98 rounds of that left.. stored right next to my boxes of Norma 170s and 200s if we only knew what forums Peter Pi ( owns Cor-Bon ) was on..

When making new brass I just get them close and load "bunny fart" loads for the caliber it is going to be if I am only making a small batch like a .401 Herters or such (think .41 Special) ..once and your set for ever it seems.. I would probably go with the cornmeal or fluff method if it were more such as a rifle...as I can see that getting expensive but if you cast your own maybe not so much.. I have accidentally fire formed some .308s in my Garand once so the fire forming process is pretty forgiving.. I was young and we had 2 Garands that day unbeknownst to me one was a .308 conversion... it shot and cycled fine just hit a tad low at the 200 yard mark...made an old Gunny laugh and say he had done that many years before at a match,.. love them old shooters stories..

Jacketed data for a plated bullet,... just work up from the lower end From Berry's website: Plated bullets occupy a position between cast bullets and jacketed bullets. They are soft lead, but have a hard outer shell on them. When loading plated bullets we have found best results using low- to mid-range jacketed data in the load manual. You must use data for a bullet that has the same weight and profile as the one you are loading. Do not exceed mid-range loads. Do not use magnum loads. Velocities depend on the caliber, but as a rule of thumb, we recommend you don't shoot our plated bullets over 1200 feet-per-second. Our 44's actually shoot best around 1150 fps. 45's are generally good at 850-900 fps. Our bullets are not recommended for magnum velocities. every gun varies,..you may get more velocity from your combination,. I have pushed plated slugs out of my .38 Super up to 1350 and they shot fine.. I use 2400 for my .357s so not familiar with Longshot.. small pistol primers work fine,.. I don't own SP Magnum primers And I'm not getting back into the argument of using Small Rifle Primers in handgun cases but some people do ( especially .38 Super shooters in IPSC )

thats the joy and the lure of military small arms most are pretty simple,rugged and easy to figure out. 1911s, ARs yeah everyone should build one or 2 John

could be someone practicing with some 10 round mags for a 1911 AND my .38 Super holds 10 rounds could be alternate double handing a pair of J frames like the DUKE in "Sons of Katie Elder" John

would be interesting to see the extractor hook and measure its tension,...my 1911's are pretty consistent as to where the brass goes.. look at a Gold Cup for the port shape that doesn't ding brass, until it looks like that, you will be dinging your brass don't worry it resizes out when you reload them eventually you will replace that collet bushing if you shoot it alot,.. they break Kuhnhausen wrote the book for a .45 a great reference to a "stock" 1911 JERRY KUHNHAUSEN THE U.S. M1911/M1911A1 PISTOLS A SHOP MANUAL - Brownells John

I was fortunate to grow up shooting Bullseye 50ft. Indoors got to shoot some very nice pistols... started out with a High Standard HD Millitary then moved through my Dads collection.. a S&W 41 then a S&W 41-1 ( shoots shorts) a High standard 107 and a Citation then finally his Browning Medalist ,..until I got my own Also shot some club members Rugers from stock to a full on Clark Customs conversion a few K-22s a Walther GSP and OSP a Pardini and a Unique DES/VO never found a High Standard Victor that worked for me though... For all around use I would probably go for a Ruger MK pistol or a Browning Buckmark , there are alot of aftermarket parts for them..or an older challenger if I could find one. I have an older MK1 I use as a fun gun but when I get serious about bullseye it is the Browning Medalist that comes out to play. John

Depends on 2 or 3 factors,.. 1. alloy or Hardness of the lead 2. velocity of loading 3. lubrication used harder the lead the faster you can drive them.. and you can change that also by using things called "gas checks" I have driven cast bullets 1200 fps out of my 10mm with no leading except the compensator.. and 1300 fps. out of a .38Super but that supply is dwindling .. so a good hard alloy and keep them under 1000 you should be safe from any real fouling. John P.S. look for your .30 projectiles by the 1000 it will save you and you will shoot them anyways..bulk is the key..saw awhile back somebody selling 168 gr Sierra Match pulled projectiles for $200 a thousand... not bad as they sell in these parts for 37 a hundred..

back when I was competing heavily the cleaning regime was to break it open (remove top end)and clean the rails reassemble lock open and bore mop then wipe down the outsides on the 1911s we called it "functionally clean" since most ranges we shot at were dust laden and re-oil cleaned the barrels maybe once a year. same with my PPC revolver. and we shot literally thousands of rounds.. the Bullseye guns,.. same treatment to my S&W M52-2 and the Medalist .22 got locked open and cleaned breech face,bolt face and crown oil was dripped onto the rails have owned it for 23 years and have brushed the bore 3 times still shoots like a champ. M-1 Rifle,.. wipe with rag and brush and clean the end of the gas plug, add drop of oil then replug. Hunting guns, wipe down with silicone cloth after every outing..end of the year soak and clean to get wad fouling out. if you run non-corrosive ammo the cleaning intervals are way longer.. Case Note : Ruger MKII bought at the beginning of the 1992 Indoor Bullseye winter league we shot 3 times a week 30 rounds a match..the owner cleaned it "vigorously and religiously" after every outing 2 years later he had to buy another pistol because his was a smoothbore he blames the Stainless Steel tornado brush instead of his zealous cleaning habits.. So to answer your poll I clean but not a down to the last nut and bolt all copper and carbon out of the barrel like showroom new cleaning think of it this way you don't tear down your cars engine every weekend or once a month do you ? think of all the other things you own and use that you never clean after each use.. chainsaws,lawnmowers,fishing reels,bicycles.......... John

could always "dot" it Ruger 22/45 scope mount MKII MKII MKI weaver no gunsmith mount lower page thinking of getting one for my 1978 MK I just bolts where rear sight fits and would probably bed it with loc-tite the rest of the length.. John

blind hunting is OK with me but I prefer solo hunts on public land the last season or 2..went woodie hunting early last season and with 6 hunters in a blind who can tell who shot what ? waders,kayak dozen decoys with a "pee duck" blind bag and a thermos the way my Uncles taught me (less the "pee duck" ) back when we used lead shot.. some of it is just being where they want to fly to sometimes I do some call work and see if I can get them to come in,I enjoy the challenge Later in the season Goose hunting is always fun to work a group.. John

Yep,.. I may be hunting a few days this season work/finances keep me from doing it every day .. either blind hop or hunt public lands... John

Reloading Supplies - Brass Casings $20.85 per hundred...plus $7.00 shipping could also call the reloading bench in Mt. Juliet John

Brewed a Graff last fall,.. maturing nicely down to my last 12 so time to get another recipe decided.. Extract - Gunslinger's Graff - Home Brew Forums Like a longbow cider/Guinness mix 16 ozs. at a time John

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