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Here is mine : Back in 1993 I was given this old fixed blade by a friend of the family who was a combat medic in Korea and he said to me upon hearing I was delivering boats offshore : "If your going to have adventures , you should have a good knife..this served me well." he wouldn't elaborate but the look he gave me caused serious thought while on watch. It cut me out of a few problems now it is my hunting companion/bushknife. the sheath has perished but I am planning a new one with sharpener and firesteel loops something leather befitting an almost 70 year old blade. Someone back when rounded the butt, then again "sporterizing" wasn't limited to rifles after the war I guess. the blade polished up nice with some Flitz and holds an edge like no other knife I own. must be the 1095 Carbon Steel, thought you all might like to see some history still in use. http://www.quanonlin...nives/225q.html next oldest knife is my Camillius Cub Scout knife approx 30 years old.. John P.S. Anybody else got an old timer they take afield ?

Golf Balls....carpeted floors not a problem.. read some fellow got his stolen that way so used the knowledge for good get close to resting place and roll off then slide it the last 2 ft. then bolt the mutha down and back and side you may laugh but you can turn corners really easy compared to a dolly.. John

NO, the other way around, think comustion chamber,same amount of fuel but more compression bigger bang .. but some powders also don't like large air pockets ( low charges of 296 in a .44 Mag. ) I would load a test batch depending on how close to MAX. powder charge I was..if lower end than no but if near published max I would: Start from the beginning (back off a few tenths of a grain) and work up a new loading at the new OAL however .035" isn't much of an OAL variance just make sure you aren't jamming the bullet into the throat (lands) or your pressure will spike. John

Luke, Most don't reload to save money but it does usually mean more ammo per dollar so you can shoot more sort of a 2 for 1 or 3 for 1 in cost differences. For me it is more of a "tuned to the particular firearm" sort of thing and in the case of the M-1 Garand because modern ammo has an issue with the pressure curve causing pressure problems at the gas port out by the muzzle and said pressure being hard on the designs operating rod there are lists of proper powder to use, the GI being a 150 gr. bullet with enough IMR 4895 to get to 2700-2750 fps. the CMP ammo which is spec groups are considerably larger than my handloads I have tuned to my particular M-1 this load doesn't shoot well in my 1903A3s or my A4 which have their own developed load to optimize consistent results when used with that particular rifle. My M1917 Enfield is another story entirely yep it is .30-06 but I have yet to find what it likes best, that is the other fun part of reloading all the possible combinations of bullet,powder and primers which mix will work ? groups will shrink and just when you think you have "the load" they open back up and you start again, or a Mfg. discontinues a particular powder or bullet ( load long enough and it will happen to you) and you get to start over again so Keep Good Notes for every combination you make, like a cookbook. I also use a 168 Sierra MatchKing with IMR 4064 with good results in the M-1 I wouldn't go any heavier than a 175 gr bullet though and the 168 Hornady A-Max is a possible contender also.. Also it allows you to shoot things they don't make ammo for anymore, ever see a .401 Herters Powermag ? or a .44 Auto Mag or some sweeet older varmint rifles in some odd wildcat caliber like 6mm/.223 or if you want to run .300 BLK without taking out a mortgage I am told this is an option of resizing .223 brass New reloadable7.62 x 54R brass is expensive ( not sure of the status of reloadable factory ammo like Sellier & Bellot ) but It should last a longer time in a bolt gun, the M-1 is a bit tough on brass maybe with an adjustable plug it isn't so bad but I have no experience with them. Hope this helps. John

Saw someone else do this and when opened was loaded with AA batteries. Snopes says it was hooey,..http://www.snopes.com/photos/humor/batteryhack.asp Not sure if D's were "Hooey" also..But I have seen adapter holders to use 4 D s in a lantern..

I'm sure I could work a lanyard for that one Yote,. Ever use that Spalted Hickory you got from Antioch ?

Google~Fu check,..yep still got some.. http://www.instructables.com/id/223-Survival-Whistle/ Gentlemen Start your Dremels.........

If i were to rebarrel my M-1 Garand I would lose the import stamp ( Blue Sky ) the only indicator it was imported Mosins don't have #s from when they were built ? I think this is the actual # you would have had on a 4473 or C&R books the importer stamp may be secondary ? can you post a pic before it goes away ? John

Caster > as long as the receiver is good and you want one go for it. might get lucky like I did. Mine is a Korean sendback from the early 90's BLUE SKY ALEXANDRIA VA. on the barrel still holds 2" off sandbag rest with handloads, only change was a NM rear sight arperature and tighten up the gas cylinder locknut and new oprod spring ( first outing the spring broke into 3 or 4 pieces but rifle kept working ) Serial # indicates a 1943 with a rearsenal sometime in '55 I believe also a USPSA membership counts for CMP purchases. John

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCBwEDPazXo

Could possibly call around to places that use the GMC as a fleet vehicle and see if they have any bed take offs,. as in they use flatbeds,stake body,or utility bodies might be able to get you one undamaged ready to bolt down and go for a bit more might even luck out and get one with a bedliner sprayed in, happened to a friend in Fla. also heres a chance to change to stepside if you wanted to. Just a thought. John

If you still want to pursue the Para-Ord rifle Could always go talk to the guy who made it originally Al Zitta of Z&M Weapons LR 300 Kits Shot one of the early ones at an IPSC match back in early '90s

I wondered how it could "erase" the fouling and wouldn't you like to know where I found the answer... Hatchers Notebook.Page 337....yep WW 1 technology ,.. it seems the French to keep fouling down in their Arty. shells used strips of tinfoil in with the powder and it reacts due to heat and pressure. Hatcher experimented with smaller bits,perhaps powdered tin, in a .30-06 and found similar results..a sooty formation easily cleaned compared to copper fouling.. I am sure "Big H" is using some sort of chemical but the theory has been around for almost a century. Love how history comes back around.. John

my old IPSC load was 5.7 of 231 behind a 200 H&G 68 (900 fps.) and the same charge behind a 230 FMJ gave me 830 My Bullseye load was 4.2 of Bullseye with the same 200 LSWC and grouped at 50 yds. pretty well from an old Gold Cup. What Powder thrower are you using ? perhaps we can offer some "tweaks" to the measure to help you.. the Dillon benefits from a polish and a dryer sheet ( wards off static cling and clumping ) Some say Titegroup is the old Winchester Super Lite which I have burned copious amounts of in my 10mm and didn't find a metering problem but I will admit I was throwing 6.0 + grains at a time through a Dillon powder measure..

for 2K I would send my Pacific #5 ( currently sleeved to .22LR ) back to the Ballard rifle company and have it rebarreled back to .45-70 put a decent set of soule sights on it and go make lots of white smoke Quigley Shooting Association | Shooting blackpowder cartridge rifles

Of course if your a history buff you can't ignore the fact that is very closely resembles a Walther P-38, and you never hear anyone trash talk that bit of engineering.. just cut the frame and make it fat for a double stack mag and stretch the slide to the end of the barrel and a few minor cosmetics ..... too many folks believe what they read and never try it for themselves ,... consider the source and move on... John

another 2 cent opinion,, you don't want to get too slow with lead on steel they bounce after impact,.. fast lead "shatters" and is actually safer than slow target velocities just ask the steel shooters/IDPA/USPSA or 3-gunners I'm not sure what the cutoff point is velocity wise but have seen 148HBWC@ 750fps. bounce like rubber balls at 60 ft. I want to say even my lighter loads hovered around a 125 PF (so 1000 fps or so) I don't know the hardness of my .38 Super bullets or my 10mm bullets (both out of Bar-Sto barrels) but at over 1200 fps I have very little leading,..somewhere out there on the WWW I read a bullet makers reasoning for different hardness for different applications and how they claim that when matched you get minimal leading however I lost that bookmark. maybe someone else has a link.. I am a fan of "try it" vs. listening to the regurgitated old saws found online and in some gun magazines. looking forward to your results if you go forward on this project. John

cheap and somewhat easy, heck if you have dimensions Home Depot or Lowes will cut your deck plates I wish I had taken pics,..back in Fla in our condo we had a shallow ( 26" deep) 5ft. walk by linen closet we didn't seem to use much replace some shelf cleats with some beefier 1x1 cleats and 3 2 x 8s later and a very sturdy bench was borne and when I was done the closet doors closed and it didn't exist she called it the nook and when I loaded my .30-06 the chandelier downstairs would sway when it came time to move 38 screws came out and the old shelves ( stored under a bed) went back and all was normal to sell.. John

an AR variant of Jeff Coopers Scout rifle concept,.. should work fine as long as it is mounted securely I would consider mounting a piece of rail to the end of the FF tube and using the offset mount strickj posted to support the scope fore and aft though, and should end up close to where you have it there.. John

....and 1 server to rule them all. Verizon calls it 3G or 4 G because SKYNET is copyrighted John

Staple gun,.. gotta hang a target first..

1. bullets don't reliably expand at handgun velocities into the classic mushroom and certainly not on just paper, however the .45 has a larger cavity which may offset the slower velocity unless you are running +P which run nearly 950 or 185 JHPs which are usually faster than that more like 1000 fps +/- 45 ACP Ballistics Chart | Ballistics 101 2. looks like the cardboard backer may have backed away from your paper target ( possibly due to muzzle blast from being closer or range vent fans ) and the kind of paper they use for that target is prone to tearing look at an NRA competition target the paper is designed to cut cleaner than a longer fiber white paper most folks shoot at...next time get a can of "spray tack" cement and glue your target to the backer,or staple the corners ..those tears will disappear due to cardboard supporting the target some bullet styles (round nose) tend to star the target as they push through, pointier calibers like a 9 more radial tears a .45 tends to be rounder in profile so a little less radial tearing, Semi-wadcutters much less and or full wadcutters look like you used a hole punch Shooting before pistol comes to full rest would just move point of impact, tumbling is an ammo or firearm problem either the barrel has an issue with the rifling or you ammo is undersized or too fast and doesn't take the spin from the rifling like it should I don't see any "key holing" so your bullets don't appear to be tumbling. Here is something to help you "read" the targets to self diagnose why the shots go where they do. single handed (right hand) http://www.targetshooting.ca/docs/Pistol_Shot_Analysis.pdf or if 2 handed ( right hand) http://www.neshooters.com/awerbuck.pdf John

Some folks don't like ambi safeties due to the thought of it getting "wiped off " while in the holster etc. others are purists "If JMB meant us to have it he woulda put one on it back in 1911..." I have broken one on my IPSC race-gun.. along with over the years about a dozen other parts,slide stop,bushing,rear sight etc. It comes down to training, and what you are comfortable carrying,..some folks just aren't comfortable with,in their eyes "another thing to go wrong" BTW, congrats on educating yourself to gain the confidence to work on one of the great gun designs.. John

it is referred to as a case cannelure much like a bullet cannelure it has a purpose(crimp groove),.. to keep bullets from setting back in heavy loadings and oddly enough all my Remington 148 HBWC target brass has one also. Corbin makes a tool for ,45-70 Govt. and explains its purpose it is put in after loading to help set the bullet and is removed ( internally) upon firing due to the softness of the shell casing but the outside marks stay there.. Load em and shoot em.. I lost track of how many I have reloaded over the past 20+ years.. incipient case head separation has more to do with bottleneck rifle casings "growing" and being trimmed too many times or really bad headspace problems, the brass has to come from somewhere and is internal down by the base found by sectioning a sample case or using a paperclip with a bent end to "feel" for it have yet to see/hear of a straight walled case do that,..they tend to shrink with use it seems until they split at the mouth John

Fusion firearms also makes "short blocks" but several options.. thinking of a 6" hicap 10mm maybe someday