GS455

The Magwedge is a terrific option. Have one on my SKS-D https://www.magwedge.com/product/magwedge-sks-kwikrail-gen-4/

Wish I could post pictures of it but this forum won't let me upload any more.

Right, per the thread , if you read it. I did not DnT it.

I got to imagine it's like being a guitar amp repair tech. Think of all the non-pro wankers you got to deal with. It's no wonder they're all potheads (guitar amp repair guys that is)

He's still coming in and working from time to time (saw him a few weeks ago) but the new guy seems to firmly be at the reigns

Printed this grp today with her on 200gr PPU Match

The guy, Ted, who took over Sam Hosters shop in Gallatin took care of it for me.

Well this was interesting. I know little to nothing about reloading. My buddy was able to conjure up 10 rounds for me that we fired at the range today. He noted that the powder contents per round was very inconsistent. Averaged about 42 grains with up to a 2-grain difference between all. Against 1950s Yugo the elevation was about the same but groups moved 4-6 inches to the right. It always perplexed me how different ammo could group left to right . I would typically think it understandable to see elevation and groups size variations but windage differences ? I’m sure someone smarter than me can explain but perhaps, I think, related to barrel harmonics reacting differently to bullet weight and charge strength causing barrels to whip in any number of directions depending upon pressure points and the like. Anyway, here’s something interesting to have observed. He reloaded pulled bullets and powder into once-fired commercial PPU brass. We had one complete neck separation and several cracks along the base of the necks. The Bulgy bullets are magnetic as were the copper washed casings from which they were pulled. Might there have been something improper in his loads. Steel core bullets in brass a no-no? BTW we did fire several of the original primed cases and they just sort of puffed some smoke with a sizzle. No actual pop/bangs. So, if there was some debate about whether the primers were bad vs. the powder it’s safe to say powder was fine and the primers are rotten/too week to ignite powder.

Yea, someone would need to see the scope + mount on the receiver to know the geometry involved

I'll check him out. Do you know if he drill and taps receivers as well? Trying to avoid shipping the whole gun that's why I was hoping for someone local.

I've got a Mauser M48 bolt body that needs to have it's handle turned a few more degrees down so it can clear a ZRAK scope and mounts setup. No idea who does this and I'm not looking for some boutique hunting rifle gunsmith just a heat and bend a scooch. I'm just north of Nashville.

Some of you may have already seen my older and recent posts about “My 54r Vepr Woes” as well as chapter II. If you think I’m a whiner or ignorant, well, so be it, but bedtime reading if bored (and I’m still open to suggestions). Here, I’m only just coming to epiphanies, perhaps a decade late. I’m honestly wondering what the craze was around these back in the day. Obviously substantial enough and volume on the market for the likes of CSSpecs and others that invested in accessory projects for em. This is specifically a discussion surrounding my late, 20.5”, 54r, single stack variant. I was drawn in by all the praise and chatter, great, thicker, accurate barrels and just had to have one before it was “too late” (and now, it apparently is). I paid about $840 which, I felt, was a lot at the time. Mine is from the last batch that Atlantic was selling with the front site at the end of the barrel (not at the gas block). A guy named Blaine Bunting (very polite) from Atlantic who was “working” the forums, hand-held me through the purchase as they were just coming in and lots of follow up emails asking what I thought and was I satisfied, etc. In fact, it was above and beyond, great pre/post customer support (AAA+ there) for a single end-user. I didn’t really say so, partly b/c I was pretty “green” at the time (still am?) and it took so long to run it through its paces with glass but, from the day I opened the box I was somewhat disappointed. I immediately noticed the less-than hardware of the action (bolt/carrier group and piston) all being smaller/thinner/lighter compared to a standard x39 AKM action which I thought strange considering the larger 54r caliber. At the time I did get it out to the range immediately for function test on a HOT summer day. After a few boxes of ammo, I was sweating quite a bit and noticed right away that the finish on the factory walnut, thumbhole, buttstock was blistering. I parked it in the back of the safe and took a couple years before I picked up the IWD stock set, RSRegulate mount, rings, glass, mags, etc. While the IWD stock set is gorgeous (owner a great guy but RIP) I was really disappointed to lose that major fastening point through the pistol grip into the receiver leaving only two wood screws to connect, one from the inside of the rear of receiver and one through the rear tang. An attachment that easily loosened up over time and stripped the wood. I was able to have it filled and redrill the holes to secure (for now). What’s better about these over other 54r or battle rifle caliber AKMs? Russian, as-built”, 54r semi-auto (is it better – just because?) Decent rear sight with windage adjustment (okay, but I’m old and don’t shoot irons anymore) Thicker barrel profile that folks were acknowledging as major plus (no accuracy benefit I’m realizing at this point) What else? What’s not? Comparatively light for a “battle rifle” caliber (plus or minus?) Light action-hardware combined with being over gassed provides for violent recoil/impulse (at least mine) clearly necessitating a KNS piston. Throws spent cases up to 30’ Loss of pistol grip screw with the IWD stock (okay, not an original design flaw, rather, an IWD non-feature) Slant back receiver wi rear tang (fewer aftermarket stock options?) Original Thumbhole stock that can’t take a bit of sweat plus it’s just Monte Carlo ugly. Gas tube lever is so tight mine is practically mangled from just a few removals Stock trigger (mine) is horribly gritty and sticks (yea this can be polished or replaced) Barrel nut pinned and welded (plus/minus?). At least I could cut/remove to access standard threads so as to install a Tabuk-style flash hider Front handguard screws into a barrel collar (WTF !!! And why?) Did anyone consider how this affects barrel harmonics Single stack mag/receiver design (blech). Probably too much trouble to design and engineer a proper double stack mag for 54r Okay, so, this thing is a Russian built AKM pattern rifle (oooo aaaah) but, I think, an opportunistic/sporter construct in no way approximating anything close to a military quality product. It is now, I guess, a collectible as we’ll never see em again but what is/was the appeal? Yea, I have my personal accuracy issues with mine which REALLY grates me. I have a decent collection of 20th century battle rifles and carbines and nothing has given me such disappointment as this. At this point I’m wondering if I just cut losses and run or keep going. I haven’t done the math (yet) but likely matching or exceeding the original purchase price with all I’ve chosen to do to it: IWD Stock Tabuk flash hider Five CSSpecs mags RSRegulate scope mount ARMS #22 rings I won’t count the Trijicon AccuPoint scope as it’s a floater Stock repair for a weakness that will probably fail again, And now perhaps: a KNS piston which I’ll have to pay to have installed and will likely not help with accuracy, rather, simply keep it from shooting itself apart. A free float hand guard solution or replace the whole stock set? Trigger improvement or replacement. This is, relatively speaking, an increasingly expensive hobby and I’ve got some disposable income at this point in life. I pity younger guys getting into this today (a dying market I think). Back in “the day” I horded up a bit of corrosive, milsurp 54r @ $69ish/tin and was seeking additional rifle variants to enjoy my prudent, modest investment. Simply put I don’t mind spending money a bit at a time with a quality end in sight but this thing . . . . . ? In summary: Mine's seems to be a lemon in ways (maybe it’s not over yet). At the time I REALLY wish I went wi the .308 (double stack mags). And maybe they are a different story. I’ve never seen one nor a x39 version, but I'm pretty disenchanted with what I feel is this sloppy, cheap, light duty, non-military grade, opportunistic construct Molot spit out upon us. I think the Russian decision makers allowed them to come up with this clearly lesser-than-milspec, consumer product for the Western markets not really for hunter/sporting but the voracious, Combloc, wanna-have-a-Russian fanboys (like me).

There was no pulling the bullet with pliers and a vice. So unable to fire the primer . Cut the head off. Dry stick powder. The inside of the case and the bottom of the boat tail bullet is immaculate

A fellow on a forum is saying it's absolutely bad powder and not primers. If pulling bullets and reseating with fresh powder is all that needs to happen, then perhaps, an exercise worth doing. That is, after I burn through my lifetime supply of other 8 mm, LOL

It's still click-bang through an M48 that already has a 24lb Wolfe spring. Probably a bit more background indicated ...... I don't reload now but have a brand new 550 (still in box) and a bunch that goes with it including a crap-ton of accessories, tools, primers, powder, NATO and some other bullets. I know the primers are spent, which is why I bring this up. I've been saving my calibers of reloadable brass, including 8mm, for years. I figure, maybe when I retire, I might start reloading as a new hobby and maybe get more into precision shooting, etc. Obviously, there are no specs on the powder, so best transferring over into other 8mm brass, I'd think. With all that in mind, assuming that powder still burns, I guess I'm wondering if it's all worth keeping in the Ammo Fort as a couple $grand$ in reusable components? Or, for example, are Bulgy bullets known to be crap and saving/reusing that old powder a moronic idea? Back in the day I used to read how some reloaders would break down the 1950s 8mm Yugo for bullets & powder and reload into other boxer brass. I have a lot of that stuff, too, and happen to think it's some of the most accurate 8mm milsurp I have. Typically, only one hang-fire in 40 or 50 rds wi HiPower Wolfe bolt spring.