lock n' load

I recently installed some offset sights (45 degree) on my rifle. I tried to sight them in but to no avail. I thought I was getting close but my adjustments were apparently too much and I was back to square one. My questions are: 1. Can you boresight 45 degree sights to at least get on paper? My shooting vise can't hold the rifle at 45 degrees. 2. How much adjustment is made by each turn of the post and rear sight (i.e. 1/4 turn = 1 moa)...I making up the numbers because I don't know how much or how little each turn actually makes. This is the first time I have actually tried using iron sights and found it to be somewhat fun (if I can get them zeroed). My primary optic is a Vortex Spitfire. I wanted something in case my main optic failed or got broken and I'm forced to use the BUIS if the SHTF. Thanks in advance for any advice.

I renewed mine back on the 11th of May. I got my new lifetime permit in the mail today...that was pretty quick. I thought I would have another week to go but that wasn't the case.

I bought my my AR 556 a couple of years ago for roughly $700 after taxes. My Ruger was the first AR I had ever bought. I had been looking at a DPMS but the person at Sportsman's Warehouse told me to check out the Ruger and that it was a hot seller. I ended up buying it and really like it. It has been a reliable and accurate rifle. I haven't had any issues with mine. Of course any brand can have a few lemons. I think they typically test each rifle before it leaves the factory to pass their QC test but I could be wrong.

Sam1 I agree..the "Grip Zone" labeling on the grip is tacky lol.

I've been looking at getting a different pistol in .40 caliber. I currently have a Gen 3 Glock 23. I've had mine for several years and I like the gun except for the grip size. I have smaller hands (cue the Trump jokes...lol) and shoot okay with it but the grip is slightly larger than I care for. I have been looking at the Glock 23 Gen 4 and it seems to be smaller but not by much. I have also looked at the Springfield XD MOD2 (Service Model with 4" barrel) in .40. I liked the feel of the gun and think it could be a contender. The last and possibly new favorite gun I handled is the H&K VP40. I really liked how the gun felt in my hand also. I have read some reviews and watched Hickock45's videos) on those guns. His review of the VP40 stated that it felt more snappy than the G23. I know the .40 is snappy but making a gun even snappier is a negative. I have also read that several people complain of a higher bore axis with the Springfields and H&Ks compared to the Glocks (I don't know if that is anything to concern myself with or not or if it's just preference).I am looking for input on anyone's experiences with the above mentioned guns that may help narrow down my choices. Thanks.

I had posted awhile back about the Taurus PT-111 9mm I had bought. I have taken it to the range on several occasions and fired several hundred rounds through it. I have enjoyed it immensely. The trigger does have a rather long pull before firing (training gets one used to the pull) but it does have a short reset and follow-up shots are easy. Even one-handed shots are comfortable. I did replace the stock dual recoil spring assembly with an all stainless steel version from Lakeline, LLC. I am considering buying some tritium night sights from them to put on the gun. It has been a reliable pistol. So much so that I bought me a Alien Gear Super Cloak 3.0 iwb holster for it. It conceals really good with my new holster. I will say that wearing the gun next to the skin with an iwb can be slightly uncomfortable with the aggressive texturing on the grip. I have read a lot of great reviews (albeit a few negative ones) about this gun. I had been reluctant to consider Taurus pistols as a purchase due to the negative reviews I have read and heard about them. Their QC seems to have improved with the PT-111 Gen 2. If you are looking for a decent 9mm compact pistol which can hold 12+1 rounds then I highly suggest giving this gun a try. I paid roughly $280 for it at my local Bass Pro store. I have seen them on PSA for $209.

I visited my local GT Distributor today and found that they had Winchester Ranger T-Series ammo available AND on sale. I had been looking for that ammo for quite a while. They had boxes of .40 S&W 180 grain, 50rs/box for $16.00/box. I grabbed two boxes. I shot most of one box at the range and it definitely had some umph to the recoil (at least it seemed that way to me vs the 165 grain fmj and Speer Gold Dots I am used to. My question is does anyone here use that ammo and if so, is it better than say the Gold Dots or HST's or is it all just a matter of preference? I have read that they are basically the Black Talon without the black Lubalox coating on them. The photos I have seen of the expanded "talons" looks super wicked. I am going to find out if they may carry any of those rounds in 165 grains.

Been looking to replace the plastic guide rod assembly with a Lakeline S.S. one. I haven't had any issues with the factory spring but have read some others have had problems with them causing the gun to lock up. Has anyone on here ever used the Lakeline recoil spring assembly? It looks like a quality replacement for the plastic factory one. On a side note, I am really digging the Taurus PT-111. I have shot it several times and haven't had any FTEs or FTFs of any kind. I also like the ergos of it. I am considering going between the PT-111 and my Glock 23 as my EDC after I put a few more rounds through it to ensure it will be reliable. https://lakelinellc.com/shop/stainless-recoil-assembly-for-taurus-pt111-g2-black-oxide-finish/

Thanks for the replies. I had looked at buying that exact BCG a few weeks ago and may end up just doing that instead. I was hesitant to buy the whole BCG without knowing if I would be running into problems. I will be ordering more spare parts tonight like firing pins, gas rings, etc. I've looked at buying some field repair kits that should cover those items. Should I worry about extra springs, detents, ect? . I don't shoot very often, maybe every few months and then it's usually 100-150 rounds. I also need to get some spare parts for my new Windham 7.62 AR. I have new mags and a Vortex optic on its way this week for the new gun.

This is the bolt I was thinking of buying... http://www.midwayusa.com/product/303086/dpms-bolt-assembly-ar-15-223-remington-matte

I am looking at buying some spare parts for my rifle and was thinking of buying a spare bolt to have as a backup. Would I need to also purchase "go/no go" gauges to test the fit of the new bolt or would it be okay to use it as is?

What about the 30 round AK PMAGs?

Any thoughts or experiences from anyone on the WW SRC 7.62 x 39 rifle? I had looked at the CMMG Mutant but saw the Windham and liked the price.

I haven't even got to shoot mine yet. I want to clean it good tomorrow. I want to try it out maybe next weekend. I have read good things about this pistol and really like the look and feel of it. I hope it will be a keeper. I still love my Glock though. But for $279 I thought I'd take a chance.

I just purchased a PT 111 G2 and the owner's manual does not recommend dry firing as it could damage the gun.

I just purchased a Taurus PT111 Millennium G2 at Bass Pro for $279. My normal EDC is my Glock 23. I've never owned a Taurus and have been kind of hesitant to buy one due to some of their quality issues they have had in the past. I liked the price and the feel of the PT111 G2. I had read some favorable reviews of the P111 G2 before I bought it. I would like to switch out the Taurus with the Glock for my EDC from time to time. I am hoping from feedback from those that may own one on the pros and cons of the gun. My biggest question I have is would you trust your life to one for EDC..at least from time to time?

Just goes to show what an armed Good Samaritan can be... wrcbtv.com/story/32342855/police-investigating-shooting-on-ringgold-road

You can't go wrong with the Ruger AR-556. I've had mine for almost a year and love it. I haven't had any issues with it so far.

I am in the process of closing on a home that I found. I am now waiting for the final approval from the underwriter at them moment. The house is 15 years old. Most of the homes in the city I plan on living in are 40-50 years old, so I wanted something that wasn't so old that it needed major renovation. I also like where it is because it is close to work. I had the home inspection done a few weeks ago. The lady who lives there had the house built in '96. It appeared that she has taken care of the home, but I had a home inspection done on the home just to be on the safe side. I met with the inspector and she showed me what she had found and how to repair them. The major systems were in good shape according to her inspection. The roof still had a half-life to it. The AC system was in good shape. The crawlspace under the house was clean (plastic covering the ground, plumbing was secured and insulated). After meeting with her, she emailed me a detailed report with photos of the things she found and how to correct them. All of the defects were considered DIY repairs. I did not however, buy a home warranty (dunno if that will bite me in the butt later...). I didn't have the traditional 20% down payment to make when I started looking. I did however, get the seller to pay the remaining closing costs on the home. I applied for a first time homebuyer's program and was approved. It covered the down payment and a portion of the closing costs. My current mortgage payment will be roughly $60 more per month than what I pay for rent now. I will have my truck paid off this time next year and that will be roughly $500/month I will save. I plan on applying an additional $100 per month to the mortgage payment. I have been told by others that this extra money will go directly on the principal and will cut the loan life by about 6-7 years. The neighborhood is on a dead end street so not much traffic. The neighbors that live around there seem to be older people so I hopefully won't have to worry about hell raisers all the time. I am really pumped about buying my own home and not having to pay on something I will never own. There are pros and cons to renting vs. buying, but I think the pros outweigh the cons. I would definitely go with a home inspection prior to buying a home.

Sorry...had to post this too. I had never seen this video before. It brought tears to my eyes knowing that the UK had enough respect to perform OUR national anthem to show their solidarity with us in the wake of the 9/11 attacks.

I was unemployed at the time. It was a beautiful Tuesday morning. I had woken up to eat some breakfast and watch tv. I was watching a "breaking news" event on "The Today Show" of where a plane had hit the WTC. I was thinking..."how in the hell does a plane just hit a building like the WTC. Anyway, I saw the second plane hit the second tower and right then I knew it wasn't an accident. But before I could recover from the shock of what I just saw, they then said that a plane had just hit the Pentagon and then a plane had crashed in PA. It felt like I was blindfolded and being sucker punched without relent. I was scared, shocked but most of all...ANGRY. I had left a while later to get some cigs and when I had returned, I witnessed the second tower fall. Peter Jennings said it best.."Oh my God..." I am glad I wasn't the POTUS...I would've probably been nuking someone that day . To all those who have fought and served and sadly...those who died to protect this great nation from thugs like Al-Queda and the Taliban...THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE...YOUR ACTIONS ARE APPRECIATED MORE THAN WORDS CAN EVER EXPRESS.

My truck's diagnostic systems in all of its infinite wisdom, has an audible alert every time the oil needs to be changed. Pretty handy in a way I suppose. I try to keep it changed every 3,000 miles or so. I usually use a semi-synthetic blend or fully synthetic blend when I do change it. I also use the Fram Xtra or Tough Guard filters too. Fortunately, my truck sits up just enough to where I can get a creeper under it to change the oil. It's cheaper to DIY in my opinion.

I usually change the oil myself most of the time. However, I do have to let the dealership inspect the engine, transmission and powertrain every 5 years to keep the lifetime warranty on my powertrain valid. I should have just declined the offer and asked around before doing it, but I didn't. They need to make a "jackass" smilie. I would have used that one in my thread title. LOL

Well...I guess I allowed the dealership to screw me over today. I took my truck to get an oil change at the dealership because it was time to change it and I had a coupon to have the oil changed, tires rotated and have a multi-point inspection done cheaper than I could do myself. They told me that the power steering and brake fluid needed to be flushed and replaced. The also said my front brake pads were kinda thin, but they told me I could wait until my next oil change to have that done. Not being much of a mechanic, I trusted their advice and had those two things done along with the oil change. It cost around $120 for each prodecure in addition to the oil change. It ended up costing right at $300 overall . My truck is my baby and I don't want anything to happen to her by neglecting to replace any old fluids in the truck so I had it done. My truck has 41,000 miles on it so far. I feel I let them dupe me. Any input from any mechanics on here if such services are needed and if so, the intervals. My truck is an '08 Dodge Ram.