broylz

Anyone care to take along a guy who is trying to get into the sport? Im 31 years old and have been shooting a long time. been turkey hunting once several years ago, duck and deer last year. I live in town and don't know too many people in the area or have access to much land at all. I have a lifetime hunting and fishing license I got pretty cheaply as a disabled veteran and would like to put it to use. ive got a 12ga and a 30-06.   I don't care what the season is, I love being in the outdoors and want to get into hunting. been a few times but never killed anything. im really wanting to try to harvest more and get to eating wild game that ive killed.   feel free to PM me if you are willing to help a guy out.

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I disagree on the cost saving aspect. I believe it is still worth it. at 15cents per round, that's only 150.00/k. you cant buy WWB at walmart or anything equivalent elsewhere for $15/100.   as far as equipment, I started with a kit from Lee. i got the breechlock challenger single stage kit. after 10K various rounds, 9mm, 40, 45acp, 38spl, 357mag, 223, and 308, i bought my second press which is a 9mm Lee Pro 1000. it has been great for the price. its finicky at times but nothing very complicated. i also bought a spare turret for it in 9mm with a second powder measure for the turret. since they use the same shell plate, i got the ability to load both progressively for less than $250 complete, including die sets. so i have two sets of 9mm and 40 dies but one of each sits on the turrets and the other is on standby for load development on the single stage. the rifle calibers still get loaded on the single stage.   i have also had great luck with a couple $20 Possum hollow trimmers if you decide to do rifle calibers in the near future as well.   Im sure the more expensive presses, like Dillon, RCBS, and Hornady, have better fit and finish but i went cheap for a reason and have had great luck. The other way i justify it was i spent $100 on the single stage kit, and another $125 on a RCBS digital scale and RCBS universal hand priming tool. so that $225 got returned by saving a minimum of $100/k over WWB prices at walmart and i was getting much better quality and nato spec ammo. so in the first 2K, the press paid for itself. 5 years later, i spent the other $250 on the progressive and it has also been paid for through my efforts.

I just bought 1K primers locally for $42/k. that's the highest ive ever paid. usually around $33. Powder costs me $16-18 locally at midsouth shooters supply. I run 5 grains under a 125gr lead bullet. so I get around 1400 rounds from a pound of powder. I pay $205 shipped per 3K from Missouri bullet company.   $42 for primers works out to .042/round $18 for powder works out to .013/round $205 for bullets works out to .068/round Total is 12.3 cents per round.   and as always, if you buy bulk powder and primers, it works out a bit better. my last deal was pure luck. I ended up with 5K wolf pistol primers for $50. was buying xtreme plated bullets from tjconevera for a bit more, $85/k shipped, and getting powder at the midsouth wharehouse for $16/lb vs the $25 or so at the LGS. if I buy an 8lb keg of the same powder, I basically get 2 lbs free.   I got into reloading to save money and I did for a bit. bought Lee equipment, which I still use and kept it simple. I now shoot several thousand per year vs maybe 1K a year when I was buying commercial so it does help. lost a lot of brass during competitions so I try to get it at the range if I can.

I think this is going to be easier if I had a stripped lower that's already finished to set the depths.   I leaned into the front/back knob and ended up eating into my jig. I really need to take a break from this and do some more research. im starting to hate this project. its just frustrating me.

I got the mill back together today. I think its going to work this time but im going to have to slow waaaaay down.

gjohnsoniv- how are you going about heat treating the ak receivers? I don't mind plug welding over spot welding as I don't care about that minor visual detail but the heat treating is my concern

when you want more power, look up the "12ga from hell"  its getting 50BMG power.   looks like a good gun. ive been wanting to delve into a slug gun for awhile now for the power. I have shot a few 2 3/4 rifled slugs through a smooth bore but am looing for a slug barrel for my Mossberg 535.

OK,well I got my mill set up and started boring holes with the shiny new end mill and then my chuck fell out...   it appears to be a tapered spindle that's a friction fit??? got an email out to harbor freight tech support but their online track record looks poor at best.   So, that said, if anyone has a decent mill and some experience with it, I have a jig set and would like to hook up with you and finish my lower. I have drilled a couple holes slightly too deep but I don't think they are in critical areas and hope I can make it work since my dumb...self started with my engraved piece instead of something else. if not, I got 3 more and this will be an expensive learning mistake. I hope not.   I have the drills for pin holes as well as the 2 recommended end mills.

got my mill today and it came with a few clamps and such. its just big enough to get the work done I need. its a central machine mill. similar to what HF now sells but an older version with multiple speeds based on swapping the belts...   anyway, I got a little impatient and drilled the pin holes and selector hole tonight. worked great.   UPS should be delivering my end mills tomorrow and if everything works out in my favor tomorrow, I will most likely try to get this one completed tomorrow. we shall see.

I have thought about this as well. I am currently trying to get a mill set up to do some 80% ar15 lowers from tactical machining with their jig. The ak build may be my next project. I just need to figure out the heat treat part of that deal. It woukd be alot easier and cheaper to just buy one but I like the diy route for custom engravings and such which are impossible to find. Like my first ar lower is a custom engraved one I will sbr and its serial number is my dob. Some may not get it but I feel its a personal accomplishment

Look at midsouth shoooters supply online. Their wharehouse is on i24 exit 11 in clarksville

I am picking up a mill from a buddy hopefully this weekend. I have tactical machining lowers and a jig. Waiting on end mill bits to be delivered monday. That said, ive never done this before and am not sure how complete the mill is yet but ifbi can get it set up and get one donebin the next couple weeks, maybe we could do a small get together?

curious if anyone here bow hunts LBL? any advice for a first timer? i havent hunted in probably 15 years and have a buddy who has never hunted and hes wanting to go as well. i think i may talk him into going up there with me. any advice and/or just stories would be great.

any further luck to anyone yet? i just realised im late this year already. havent hunted since high school and after a shoulder injury in the military, this is the first time ive been in a position to go. trying to talk a buddy into going to LBL with me.

subfloor is the biggest consideration in my opinion. i have installed lots of different flooring over the years and this is the easiest to install and the easiest to mess up as well. simple carpentry basics are all you need. door jambs are the trickiest part. if you want to leave the trim in place, get a jamb saw as it will make the cuts much easier than most any "make due" selection. the other easy way to do it would be to cut the caulk seal where the door jamb trim meets the painted wall and then remove the trim. you can then easily cut the thickness of the flooring amterial off the bottom with any decent saw and replace it. that will require a bit of caulk replacement and touch up paint if you get sloppy but looks better imho. as far as the labor costs go, you can look on craigslist and find people pretty willing to do them as cheap as $0.75/square foot as a side job. i still prefer the DIY methods for most people though. also, dont go as cheap as possible and the thicker the better. i buy most of my materials from Lumber Liquidators if i can and use their Quiet Walk underlayment. also a couple off options for the joining of different woods or flooring materials between rooms. first, if you do a subfloor to raise it, you need to do that for the whole room and dont try to float it as it will shuffle and seams will split over time. second option would be to get a transition strip and adhere it to the existing fixed floor and let the floating floor float under the edge of the transition strip. if its a big difference, you can get a bull nose and shave the underside to the thickness you need. lastly, i think the placement of the transitions is often overlooked, or im picky. i like the transition strip to rest under a door when its closed so that you can not see it from ither side of the door when its closed. most people hedge to one side or the other. this may require shaving down the bottom of the door to clear the difference but the devil is in the details, as always. if going to tile and grouting to other flooring instead of a transition strip, i will center the line under the door in the same manner.

is there a place to call and check the status? im doing on 60 days with no word either way.

i waa with a buddy out there last year and he got a couple nice ones as well.

.22mag from a KTp30?

I vote for a LRB M25 supermatch rifle with a 1:10 twist heavy barrel cut to 18" like the bush rifles with a vortex razor HD 5-25x in a custom Manners stock. their prototype stock was pretty sweet but they havent done much with it lately. second choice would be a GAP Gladius, same scope. maybe an 18" LWRC REPR? can you tell i like an 18" .308? any of them would be wearing an AAC SDN-6 can as well.

ive never used a scoped handgun but i have and do shoot out to 100 yards on occasion with my glock 17. will be trying it soon with my new glock 35 as well. sights make all the difference usually. im sure your 454 will be much more accurate at distance than my glock 17 but it still gets there. personally, i wouldnt overthink things. maybe a 2-7 hangun hunting type scope or something? might want to look into shooting gloves as well to help make the experience more pleasurable with the heavy hitters.

unfortunately i dont care for apple as much as google over this. that leaves windows phones which i have had no luck with. maybe blackberry? i too will start using Bing more often. i signed the petition. not sure if it will help at all but same goes for most anything else i have gotten away from for political affiliations.

my wife and i have a couple different code words or phrases as well as a couple different meeting spots if we have to leave the house.

they dont expire in a month like usual points do they?

i totally agree on the remington 5R milspec. best gun out of te box that ive shot so far. it will however, cost your buget wthout the scope. my last build was a remington 700 AAC-SD with a Millett TRS-1 scope and it did geat out to 770 yards. it would be right at $1k depending on base and rings. ive used Weaver tactical bases andrings and for cheap ones, they work well enough. my first build would be more inline with your budget as it was a remington 700 SPS-Varmint and i put a 5R take-off stock on it with a Super Sniper 10x scope. it has a 1:12 twist in it so shooting heavy enough bullets toget to 1k reliably is hit or miss. i hadto load for mine to even do decent with 175gr bullets. did best with 168gr but those get shaky past 800 yards.