StPatrick

What Tres said.    Additionally, the kind of specialized craftsmen a Wilson or Ed Brown require to churn out their guns are highly prized and very expensive.  Those are skilled tradesmen and don't come cheap.  As the intricacy of any manufactured object increases and tolerances tighten, cost increases exponentially, not linearly, as the men and machines required to produce that widget get more and more specialized, which adds cost, but the main drivers are time and waste - as a manufacturer pursues ever greater precision, the time required to build, measure, and rework all increase greatly, as does scrap.  This is also a self-reinforcing cycle.  As you cut time out of build / measure, you increase rework / scrap; in order to reduce waste, you must spend time on the front end.  Congratulations!  Your waste has been reduced, unfortunately your cycle time has increased and you are now producing 85% fewer widgets than you were.  Time is the driver of cost in a precision manufacturing environment.   A great way to illustrate this is the market for (mostly) US-built rifles.  Rem 700s, Savage 10s, etc. are available in the $300 range brand new, and will do everything a casual shooter or hunter would ever want.  Taking an off the rack rifle from 1-3 MOA to 0.5 MOA (yes, I know YOU get 0.4 MOA with your handloads, but this is an example of how cost v. manufacturing precision doesn't increase linearly and not an indictment of your rifle or your rounds) requires you to either spend the time doing multiple operations to various parts, if you don't replace them outright, or buying the time of someone with the years of expertise and knowledge required to get you there.  You can very easily take a Wally Rem 700 and end up left with nothing but the receiver and down a couple grand to get that 800-yard shooter.  After all that, consider that there is a good chance you've owned multiple cars or trucks that cost less than champion-level benchrest guns.   The same holds with most anything - buy a sports car, and you'll find the next 50 hp cost more than the last.  The law of diminishing returns has yet to be repealed.   RIA pistols are nice, based on the one I got to shoot.  I'm no pistolero and neither am I a 1911 guy, so it was good enough.  I liked it.  They do 90% of what a $3k gun can do, but (some percentage of) the people buying the Browns, Wilsons, and Nighthawks are doing so because they can tell a difference between 90% and 99% and are willing to pay a premium to get the widget that fits their desires.   Like I said, I'm not a 1911 guy, I have no MBA, I just work in a factory where we make things, so I've shared what I know.   When the 1911 was originally made back in the early 1900's Technology was expensive and labor was cheap. Today it is just the opposite in the US, your getting your RI's cheap due to cheap Chinese steel and cheap Philipino labor.

If this is a normal 14 year-old boy, tin cans will be more than enough to keep his attention.

*Note - slightly off color. Mods delete or I will if over the line*   A man walks into a bar and orders a drink from the pretty barmaid.  He says nothing else for hours, just ordering and then downing beverages.  Finally, after several hours, the now-drunken man beckons the girl over.  Since she hasn't heard a peep out of the man other than refill requests for hours, she's curious what he has to say.   "You remind me of my wee pinky toe" says the man.   "Is that because I'm so little and cute?" she replies.   "While that may be true," he says, "that's not it at all.  Nope, not it.  Rather I wanted to let you know that I'm going to finish my drink, after which I'll probably bang you on the coffee table."

First thing to check is the recoil spring - it may have a kink.  Tell your buddy YouTube is his friend.  If it's not the spring, then he has likely got binding between bolt and receiver, which means it's time for a gunsmith since I doubt warranty repair is an option anymore.

Multiple US Military units are running 4x ACOGs with a both eyes open technique at close range with pretty good success.  Ask your local infantryman.  I have a Leupold 1.5-5x that can be shot easily at the 1.5x setting with both eyes open.  Unless you're cross-eye dominant (left eye / right handed or vice versa) you should have no issues with any low powered optic.  Try somebody else's if you get a chance before buying if you have the chance.  The magnification difference between eyes doesn't mess you up nearly as much as you'd think it would.

Were I you, I'd look for dedicated long-range shooting forums and see what responses you get.  You will get hits from TGO eventually, but you're asking for detailed info on a type of shooting most TN residents don't have access to.   Guys - any recommendations for good sources of information on long-range rifle shooting?

Well done, Spots.  I always love to read these stories about would-be criminals who are foiled when their proposed victim discards the soon-to-be assailaint's preferred ROE in favor of their own.

I keep my safe in the garage, bolted directly to the concrete.  I use a rechargeable dehumidifier (not Remington-branded, but same concept and likely the same exact model without big green's logo).  I recharge it once a month by plugging it into a wall socket and have had no issues, even in summer heat and humidity.  The dessicant changes color as it adsorbs ambient water, so you can see when it's time to dry it back out.  As always, YMMV, but it's worked for me.  The recommendation for the dehumidifier came from the people at Nashville Safe House and was purchased from them as well (great folks, and they have a sterling reputation on this site).   edited - spelling.  "u" and "i" are not interchangeable in the word "dehumidifier".

If anybody near me needs to borrow one, I have an aluminum upper receiver block that pins in just like the nylon ones shown previously in the thread.  It rents at very low rates in the Franklin, TN area for beer, brass, or good company.  If you're now asking yourself whether or not you're good company, I prefer Guiness in the 16 oz. pub cans and shoot 9mm, 5.56, and .30-06.

  Anybody have any insight on the PMags?  I saw on the internet where leaving them loaded could deform the feed lips over time, so you know it's true.  /s   Seriously, though - wasn't the rationale behind including the dust covers partly to keep rounds from contacting the lips?  Curious if anyone has real world insight.

Added for those looking to use a two-point hasty sling - for that application, you cannot beat a Montana sling.  It won't be nearly as nice as a 1907 for position shooting, but for a quick brace you can't beat it. $36 at Brownell's, $30 if you have an FFL.

Don't know about the PEPR specifically, but I have a GG&G that is very similar that leaves plenty of room for my backup iron sights. Most mfgs. can tell you if your backups will fit and what height mount to buy based on the scope you're using. From what I've seen, the Magpul flip-up rear sight is most commonly the one that has fit issues as it's a bit larger. The eyepiece on my scope (Leupold 1.5-5 x 30mm) is 1.70 inches if that helps; there is no front bell so the eyepiece is the largest diameter portion of the scope. Here's a photo to give you an idea of what's working for me: ETA: I'm using the Midwest Industries low-profile flip-up rear sight. There's more clearance (4-5mm) than there appears to be in the pic.

The 452 series was discontinued since it has been replaced by the 455 as part of a movement towards receiver standardization; CZ put that info out there last year sometime.

Sort of unrelated, but this is Tennessee, where everybody knows a musician or six.  This is a guy I used to run around with playing fiddle (used to be part of George Jones's band until the possum packed it in for greener pastures), graduated from Father Ryan around 2000-ish:   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYBeSS1k7IE   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCKx15BXZBI

I'm pretty well set on 6.5G for my TGO lower build, but I'm not really thinking about 1000 yard shots.  It's really just a "because I can" build that might be used to take deer at some point or might get taken out for some longer (400m) shots, but nothing extreme.  Question for those of you who have done the serious research: J&T sells 6.5 barrels made on stainless E.R. Shaw blanks for $355 with a headspaced bolt (link).  They're button-rifled with a 1:9 twist.  The link is to their bull-contoured barrels; the std. contoured barrels are apparently available but don't show up on the site.   Based on your guys' research, where would you place these barrels on the cost v. performance curve?

I think I first saw armadillos in Franklin / Williamson county 3 years ago, dead by the side of the road, and that was perhaps 2 or 3 total.  This year, I've stopped counting.  I see way more of them roadkilled than I do possum or raccoon.

  I looked into it, and .300 OSSM looks like an awesome cartridge, but parts and such are even harder to come by than for the 6.5 Grendel / .264 LBC.  At this point, I think I'm going 6.5.  There's a decent probability that I'll never get the chance to shoot any any longer distances, but just in case, the 6.5 performs very well.   For those who aren't committed to an upper already, there's a company making dedicated uppers similar to the 300 OSSM that chamber the various WSSM calibers which look really cool.  The downside is that you must have a dedicated upper, and with the licensing agreements that are currently in place you're committed to buying a complete upper.  I was unable to find options to build from scratch.  Here's the link: http://www.dtechuppers.com/ar-15-wssm-upper-receivers.html

I'm asking for input from folks with actual experience on this one to let me know if my head is even in the right place.  Please read the entire post before responding so to keep the S/N down.   Here's the setup: I'm taking part in the TGO / CMT lower buy (and will probably take advantage of the pricing to get an upper and BCG, but that's not relevant to my questions).  My goal is to build a lightweight hunting rifle capable of taking up to deer-sized game in TN.  To that end, what I can say for *almost* certain is that the rifle will be scoped with a fixed stock.  Once I have the parts needed to assemble upper and lower, I'll need to decide on a barrel, which of course means choosing a caliber.  Looking at the tables, the best choices appear to be between 6.5 Grendel / .264 LBC and .300 Blackout / Whisper.  I have no intention to suppress the rifle, nor do I care if the bolt is nonstandard for the 6.5 Grendel / .264 LBC unless there's a definite and documented reliability issue.  I intend to build the rifle simply for the satisfaction of doing it, and may or may not ever take a shot at anything other than paper with it, but if the opportunity comes along, I want to be able to do so.   With the preamble now stated, here are the operational requirements: the rifle must be based on the AR-15 platform, able to feed from standard GI magazines readily available, and capable of humane 1-shot kills of medium-sized game within a range of 200 yards, that distance being the maximum range that the landscape and my capabilities would normally allow.*   *For any hunters getting somewhat agitated, rest easy.  I am only asking about rifle capabilities, not personal.  I'm a pretty good shot, and I will most certainly attend the required hunter safety course, follow all laws and requirements, practice like crazy,  and would be going into the field with a very experienced hunter should I decide to shoot for the table as opposed to paper.  I have no intention to make any creature suffer, nor do I have any desire to spend any more time than necessary tracking.   Now that we've gotten that out of the way, please give me your thoughts on the usefulness, pros / cons, etc., of each cartridge.  I understand the ballistic capabilities of both, but I do not have the real-world experience necessary to decide between the flatter and faster, but smaller, 6.5 Grendel / .264 LBC and the heavier but slower .300 Whisper / Blackout, especially with regards to the requirement of a clean kill based on different shots as they may be presented, with the caveat that we are absolutely not talking about head or high spine shots.  If I thought I was that good under pressure, I'd use 5.56x45 and call it a day.  I don't know if I am or not, so I won't.  For those with any kind of experience, any input you have on what kind of margin for error each cartridge provides for less than perfect shots is what I'd really like to hear (especially as range changes), as both will provide stops with perfectly placed shots and the right ammo.  I understand that what I've asked for is neither easily quantifiable nor explained; my apologies for being a pain in the hindparts.   Thanks for reading, and thanks for your input!   Regards, StPatrick

I had a Kimber Super Carry Pro for a while and enjoyed it, but have never owned or shot a Sig 1911.  Based on the posts thus far, you should be well-served by either make.  The one thing to keep in mind with the Kimbers, if you're looking at their 4" guns (and I can't remember what lengths the TLE II came in) is that their 4" models use solid guide rods and are bushingless, whereas the Sig 4" models, what few they offer, use the traditional two-piece guide rod and bushing design.  The Kimber design uses a captured officer-length spring which will need replacing every 800-1000 rounds or you'll get FTB failures.  Wolff spring sets are cheap and the replacement process is easy, but if this is a consideration, keep it in mind.  I can't say from personal experience whether the traditional guide rod / recoil spring design performs differently.  Because of the different design, the 4" Kimbers' takedown is different, but not difficult enough to be an issue.

  Since somebody else hasn't done this, I guess it's up to me: technically, (Colt Vest Pocket) / (Baby Browning) actually equals (Clt Vest Pocket) / (Baby Brwning) or (Colt Vest Pcket) / (Baby Brwning).   Pedants gonna pedant. :yuck:

  This, or a break-action .410 like used to be given to 6-year olds.  It would be fun if the official long arm of the state is the one 1st graders learn to shoot well - imagine what the grownups can do.  I'll admit I've never had either, but I love the idea.   Option 2: the official gun of the state should be whatever a resident happens to be holding at any given moment.

I will commit to one lower, am interested in the upper as well, but will need to know final terms before commitment on that part.

I am desperately trying not to make a "because nobody in mid-TN puts anything on layaway" joke here...but I guess I've failed in my own small way.  Seriously, though - it sure does seem like the one thing you're looking for is always as geographically far away as possible.

If you watch Sig's promo video, they only demo it with the velcro straps securing the brace to the shooter's arm.  In that configuration, the brace cannot be used as a stock (barrel and forearm are fixed in the same vertical plane), so they could make the argument that it is not a stock and take their chances with the ATF, which is what it appears they've done.

  I don't claim to speak for everybody on here, but I think that's the opposite of sad.  Status = Sad would have to be no mags for the Uzi, or worse yet, no mags and no Uzi.