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Everything posted by StPatrick
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I've been playing as a straight opportunist...I'm at 38 right now, and all the skills are at or near minimum except for lockpick, sneak, archery, heavy armor, smithing, block, and one-handed. Basically, if I can't shoot and scoot, then hide for another shot, I get right up close and try to finish fast. It's working well. I'm starting to wish I had spent some time enchanting, but I assumed that soul gems would be available at an Oblivion level, so have ignored it till now. I need to go collect crap gear and start enchanting with all the soul gems I've collected, now that I see how many there are. I should have been enchanting all the gear I made at smithies from day 1.
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I'm not really a survival enthusiast, but I found it interesting that this article was linked at www.ace.mu.nu as part of their normal overnight open thread (it's my favorirte right-leaning site for world events, culture, and politics, with a heavy dose of humor - I'm not involved with it other than that it's on my daily "must reads"). I figured the article might give you fellows something to discuss, as it seems to come from a legit source on SHTF-type events and how to deal with them, not that I could really tell either way. Hope y'all enjoy it.
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I need to remove surface rust from the exterior of a blued 870 barrel (grandfather's shotgun, been in storage for 20 years, cleaning it up for dad). The blue is still in great shape, so I want to be as gentle as possible. What are the best methods / got any good tips?
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Get out of my head! That's how I am when shooting hi-cap pistol mags. I'd love to say it's so I pay attention to every shot, but it's really about the symmetry of it all.
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Everybody has that one handgun they'll pick up if it comes along at the right price someday. Mine is a Smith 617 .22lr revolver with a 6" barrel. Too bad nobody ever sells one once they acquire it...what are you all holding personal vigils for?
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They're only a potential investment of you're willing to sell them, so...
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Those are some of the questions I asked myself...anybody can own an inert grenade. Was the prosecution not pursued because intent wasn't provable? Was he in possession of parts to make a functional grenade, or were those procured in Mexico? Why wasn't he tipped to Mexican authorities at the border? Seeing as how it's illegal to own a handgun in military caliber, there's probably restrictions against other surplus parts as well, such as grenade bodies. The article begs several questions, none of which are answered. Maybe in time we'll be able to see where this fits or doesn't into the greater narrative.
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Don't forget the nation's syphilis.
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Here's the article from CBS, of all places. Three quick takeaways I had after a brief scan of the piece: Maybe it wasn't entirely about guns after all...it sure looks like State / BATFE / FBI were trying to foment serious violence. To what end? I sure don't know. Anybody else notice that the "prosecutors in Arizona" are not identified as US Attorneys? While scanning the article, my assumption (dumb) was state-level attorneys, until my brain kicked in and recognized the omission. It's really fun that in this day and age you have to wonder whether a key piece of information like that ("Who did the screwups work for?") has to be questioned as a deliberate omission and not just poor writing. I don't know what to make of this, other than that it appears DOJ has lost its damned mind.
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What do YOU use to clean and oil your gun?
StPatrick replied to pattywak's topic in Firearms Gear and Accessories
For cleaning out the crud, I use plain old Hoppe's #9. On my Mark III, if I don't feel like stripping it, GunScrubber is used. For lube, I use grease as much as I can, since, as Mike mentioned, it stays put. I have had good results with SlideGlide lite, but for the most part, grease is grease, and you can use it how you want. If you are shooting in moderate to cold weather, choose your grease based on the weapon and intended application. Brian Enos' site pimps SlideGlide, since he is the mfg. or at least licensee, but there is a decent explanation of the different varieties of his grease, and what they're for, here. The principles extend to any other grease you may want to use. For areas I can't reach with a brush / grease, I use a drop of plain old RemOil. Hammer pins, etc. Also, a friendly reminder from your neighborhood chemistry guy: if it's got Teflon (PTFE) in it, keep it out of your chamber and barrel. Nothing good happens when PTFE is set on fire. There's no proof that it's harmful, but there's none that it isn't, and you don't want to be the 1st case study. -
Not yet. I went to shoot last weekend and got 5 light strikes in a row...so there was no opportunity for testing the reset. I need to strip it down and troubleshoot all the ignition parts at this point.
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Love my 452. It makes me look like I know what I'm doing.
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I wish I had something similar, but since I don't: you should use the hollow in the stock as a personal time capsule. Who knows, someday a couple generations from now, some distant GunTroll progeny could be posting the same question on whatever passes for message boards in the future. It's a very cool idea, and I think I'm going to steal it with my granddad's 870.
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I've seen and handled them, and was not impressed with the fit, nor the quality. If you're into the cosmetics, you'll enjoy it, but I've not seen any additional functionality that was added, unless you want to go full-on mall ninja. Caster's comment above is on the mark. I'd rather slam my hand in a car door than take a good wood stock off a 10/22 to put that stuff on. I can, however skeptically, see the utility if you absolutely positively must change the length of pull on a 10/22, but other manufacturers are putting out much higher quality adjustable stocks for 10/22s aftermarket. To be clear, I need to admit I have a personal bias: I'm a rifle traditionalist - I think .22lr rifles should look like what they are - killers of paper, cans, and the occasional rabbit or sparrow. That said, Archangel is providing the firearms community a chance to see exactly where "better to have it and not need it" breaks down. It's a quote we've all seen, but it has never had defined boundaries. Archangel shows where the line is drawn - the extent to which "better to have it and not need it" continues to be true actually ends just before an Archangel kit (complete with bayonet, if you run out of ammo and the squirrels rush your position) are applied to your previously just fine 10/22.
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If I had to only keep one, it would be a battle between my Sig P229 and my CZ452. The first is practical and has real-world defensive value, the latter is fun fun fun.
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Yes, but that gives me an idea. I think I'll swap back to the factory spring and see if that helps.
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I've been experiencing soft resets on my Ruger Mark III. It has the following aftermarket parts, all others being stock: VQ sear VQ adjustable target trigger VQ firing pin VQ extractor I've tried adding more pre-travel into the trigger, but that hasn't helped (my thinking being that allowing more forward travel after a shot might aid the disconnnector in popping forward). This failure is to the point that a bump to the upper, or a gentle forward press to the trigger is often (~20%) required to get a full reset. Any thoughts from those in the know? All I can think of is a shot of gunscrubber, and maybe some graphite in contact areas, but before I do that with a very clean upper, I'd like to hear from the members on this one. The disconnector is not currently lubed with anything that could cause binding. There is no oil present in the ignition parts, only a light grease on the bolt. FWIW, I doubt this is lubrication related, but all suggestions that can save me some time in fixing the issue are welcome.
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Give Guns and Leather a call - I've bought a couple Sigs from them, and they've usually got a broad selection.
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It's a bit of a haul (probably just under an hour from Smyrna), but Jeff Walle at Guns & Leather in Greenbrier knows his way around the 1911 platform, and then some. Give him a call before you buy parts.
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I've been experiencing light strikes in my MKIII too often to be chalked up to cheap ammo (e.g. approximately a 4% failure rate). Here's the details: Volquartsen ignition parts - trigger, hammer, sear, firing pin, though the disconnector remains stock. The firing pin channel is clean; I cleaned it after experiencing the light strikes, but the problem persisted. Along with, but potentially separate from, the light strike issue, I was experiencing soft resets. Dialing in some more pre-travel fixed this issue, but the light strikes remain. In full-stock configuration, the pistol only misfired when it was an ammo issue, based on my reloading failed rounds and re-striking. Thoughts? I appreciate the input of anyone here who reads the whole post first most especially.
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I had one, and sold it. On the good side, it was completely reliable, but it just wasn't my cup of tea. It had a long and rough trigger, and shot waaaaay low. Even after adjusting the sights to their limit, it was low at 5 yards. If I decide to venture into pocket gun territory again, I'll be going with a Kahr. The few I've shot have been much more pleasant overall. They had better triggers, better accuracy (for me), better precision (for me), and less felt recoil (again, for me), which allowed for faster follow-up shots. The 709 was not for me, but I have no doubt that others will be very pleased with it.
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From 1940:
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The wheel above is for one-handed shooting. It's slightly different for two hands, and if my CPU didn't die a horrible death a couple weeks ago, I would have provided it in .pdf form. It's out there, though. If my poor memory serves correct, two-handed mistakes have quite a bit more to do with the trigger finger due to the more stable platform v. one-handed shooting.
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I recently replaced a worn out old pocketknife with a Kershaw Leek. While it's the sharpest "out of the box" knife I've ever owned, it's made of fairly soft carbon steel, so rust spots show up. I've been lightly buffing them away, and keeping the metal oiled with plain old Hoppe's. Q: Is there something that will provide more lasting surface protection? The oil lasts only so long, and I tend to forgetfulness.