Sidewinder

Apparently this is a pretty common problem...as evidenced by the posts on the Internet. Had the stocks been made from walnut, I doubt there would be any problem. I'm a procastenator, so I haven't dilligently sought out a person to work with me at Taurus. I'd just like to remove my cracked stock and send it to them as an exchange for a new one. The shell holder feature is probably limited to the Tuffy configuration. I just wish Taurus would send me a new buttstock, with a mailer that I could tape onto the box, to send the cracked stock back to them in.

Gomer, I'm in Murfreesboro and have a couple of throwers and a few cases of clay pigeons. Would like to bust a few birds. Do you have some place we can shoot? I'm inside the city limits.

Jus heard Phil Valentine say that gun sales have gone up, after the Muslim terrorist murdered our unarmed military men in Chattanooga. I think he specifically mentioned the AR-15s. I wonder if the prices will go up also?

That is some very sage advice, Gotthegoods! However, sometimes, gun fever can be like "new car fever"...and we pay too much because we feel we've just got to have it...for a passle of reasons. I have walked away at times...then there's been times I wished I had walked away later... buyer's remorse.

Dolomite, people have some strange justifications for their asking price sometime. It seems that one of the hardest to negotiate on is one with "sentimental" attachments. It can be awkward when making offers... especially if the other person takes offense because it was granddad's gun, and now he's passed...or he bought it for me when I was a kid. I have a gun like that... and I'd never sell it. I think that's what the seller should do also... keep it, or sell it to a close relative.

Would you happen to have a bird house attached to that fence? If so, he's looking for a meal. He will swallow small birds ( baby Blue Birds) whole and can wipe out a complete hatching in one visit!

The case hardning condition on used guns with case hardened receivers, plays heavily into the value of that type firearm. There's case hardning that looks like it's faded (lightened), and there's case hardning that looks like it was done yesterday. There are dominant colors contrasted deeply in a new case hardened receiver/frame. Like faded paint on a car doesn't affect it's functionality, neither does faded case colors on the receiver/frame of a gun... but, both reduce the sale value and astetic appeal. Faded case colors takes a gun out of the "mint/excellent" overall condition, just as faded paint on a used car. I don't have any example pics to post here, and pics may not show the color hews properly, but the next time you see a brand new gun, with a case hardened receiver/frame, check it out. It's beautiful.

Singlestack, did you use your 22 Hornet for hunting or target shooting. If hunting,what did you mostly hunt with it? Any particular hunting tales that you'd like to tell us about... and how the Ruger in 22 Hornet performed? Do you handload or shoot off the shelf ammo through it? If you reload, is there a certain load that hits the "sweet spot" for your gun?

I have encountered this on an occasion myself, Spurge. Another that I have ran into, on a gun that I was seriously interested in that was listed on a local site, when I asked the seller about some specifics about the gun they would drop all communications. I've encountered this when asking questions about the condition of the gun. At this point, the seller holds all of the cards... has the gun in his hands. The seller can look at the gun and tell if the blueing is worn away in certain areas, if there is rust fretting, rust, pitting, or scratches on the metal parts of the gun. It is the seller that knows about the condition of any wood furniture... is the finish original and what condition it's in... does it have cracks, splits, gouges or is it unblemished. It is the seller that knows if there is anything wrong with the gun... is the rifling shot out and the bullets key-holing, is one of the ejectors broken, does the gun not cycle properly. Another thing that concerns me, when buying from a total stranger, is the history of the gun. Does the seller have a reasonable idea that the gun is not stolen? The seller should be willing to tell the buyer if he inherited the gun from his grandad, that bought it in a hardware store in the 50s, or if he recently bought it from someone he's never seen before in his life. There is a phone number...a hot list number...that any police station can check the serial number and tell if the gun is a stolen gun. I've heard some guns go through four or five buyers and sometimes years, before they are found through someone checking this list. This number is the first number a pawn shop, LGS, or gun show dealer will call, before they will buy a firearm. So... bottom line... if a seller is evasive or reluctant to answer your questions, walk away. If they shut down any communications when you ask questions, they are probably doing you a favor. They could be hiding something about the gun, or they're generally a jerk, and you'd be better off not trying to negotiate/deal with this kind of individual. In the final analysis, you... the buyer, have the option of walking away and keeping your money in your pocket. You're better off not to deal with a dishonest person, or a jerk.

Hozzie, I'm sort of a Savage man and was wondering what you thought of the Savage? I have a few Savages in various models and calibers/gauges. I don't have anything in the 204 though. I'll have to give it a clooser look. That 22-250 should give you plenty of range to not have to worry about too much stalking, here in TN. What kind of ft/sec are you getting with that round?

Gregintenn, I kinda like the Savage for the out of box accuracy. I've been looking at the Walking Varminter, but the prices are all over the board. What do you think of it in a wood stock?

Luke, his name is Grady Jones and his business name is the Collection Connection. His store hours are 2 P.M. to 6 P.M. Mon, Wed, and Friday. His past reputation as a gunsmith, has been one of the best in the country. However, he has scaled back his gunsmithing in recent years, so a phone call might be in order, concerning any gunsmithing needs. He sells guns, ammo, and reloading supplies...and shares his knowledge about guns freely. He can also order parts. I've known him for over 30 years and think very highly of him. Drop in and check out what he has to offer. The prices marked, are his out the door price.

DaveTN, excellent observation, one which brings up the question... is there a number of transactions per year that would require a "hobby business" to get an FFL? Just asking. And, if there is, does anyone know the number?

Jonnin, thanks for the extra items. My reason for starting this thread was for each of us to pass on to others things that we have learned in buying and selling...or trading. Hopefully, many more will add things from their experiences.

Spiffy, I know what you are saying. I've heard sellers say, "I have $xxx in it" or "I gave $xxx for it", with the implication that they have to get $xxx for it. What a person " paid" for a gun does not automatically establish the fair market value of the gun. It's easy to pay too much, not only with an individual, but with the LGS as well. We've all seen the price on a particular gun vary as much as $100, or more, for the same make and model at retail gun stores.

Just because a gun is the same make and model as one listed on the gun auctions, doesn't mean it's value is the same. There are 55 Chevy's worth $5,000 and 55 Chevy's worth $50,000 and the same principle applies to firearms. Then, a two door hardtop 55 Chevy model would probably bring more than one of a lower grade model in the same condition. Obviously, there are a number of considerations when assesing the value of a firearm of the same make and model. Here are a few, and possibly some of you can think of others. 1. Condition...this is pretty simple, normally a truck gun of the same make and model as a mint condition safe queen, is not worth as much. A gun with a defect, such as rust, pitting, worn blueing, cracks and splits in the wood furniture, broken firing pins, reblued and refinished wood hardware and missing sights, will be worth less. 2. Grade... same make and model... a field grade is not worth as much as an intermediate grade or a deluxe grade. Usually, it is wise to take a close look at the capital letters at the end of the basic model number. There can be a significant difference in values between the bottom and top grades. 3. Age...can up the price or lower the price, depends on how much age we're talking about and if it has collectable status. Going back to the Chevy... a 2013 Chevy is probably worth less than a 2015 Chevy... but an original condition 1955 Chevy, with 28,000 actual miles, in a two door hardtop may be worth more than the two combined. Likewise, firearms from the 1800s usually fetch more than the same make and caliber of a modern example. 4. Location... certain guns fill their nich better in some locations than others. As an example, some states ban center fire rifles for deer hunting. Shotguns with slug barrels would probably bring more there than states without that restriction. At least one state bans semi-auto rifles for deer hunting. Naturally, a pump rifle in a deer harvesting caliber, would bring more there than it would in states without that restriction. A super big bore rifle would probably be worth more in Alaska than it would be in Alabama. 5. Season... just as a kayak is worth much less in December, than it is in July, guns can bring less when all of the hunting seasons are closed than they do in the open season. With the popularity of target shooting at an all time high, this may or may not hold true...probably depending on the make, model and caliber. 6. Brand (make)... not much to say here. A Rolls Royce usually is worth more than a Chevy. You know the RR of guns... we affectionally call them snob guns, as many of us can't afford them. Personally, I can only afford to window shop. 7. Scarcity.... usually, these guns have been out of production for a number of years... and often they had a short production run. Back to the automibile example... there was a time when you could hardly give away a Ford Edsel...check out the prices of them these days. 8. Motivation... this can be the motivation of the seller or buyer. Usually, we think of it as the motivation of the seller, as the seller is the one that establishes the asking price. Someone out of work and needing to feed their family may be a motivated seller, while someone with plenty of money may be a motivated buyer. Usually, this is where the tactic of negotiation (dickering) comes into play. Many of you may think of areas I have missed, but these come to mind as I read the listings on the sites that offer these treasures for us to consider. Good buying and good selling to all my gun connoisseur brotheren. As a seller, we don't want to sell too low...and, as a buyer, we don't want to pay too much. A fair price, for buyer or seller, is the ideal situation. Good luck to both buyers and sellers.

Nice guns Hozzie. What is the Savage chambered in...22-250? I also have a Bushmaster AR .223, which I've taken on a couple of coyote hunts, but didn't have any come in so I could try it out...with factory varmint rounds. I reload .223, so as a couple of the guys have mentioned previously, I can probably "load down" to load that will get the job done without tearing up the pelt. I still want the satisfaction of bagging a yote with the .22 Hornet.

Appreciate the information 79. I believe all of the .22 Hornet ammo that I've been able to gather is 45 grain. I'll reload all of this brass as I shoot up the factory loads. I bought a Lee Hand Press to reload this thin brass, as I am concerned about crunching it with my Rock Chucker. I'm not sure of the twist on my TC Contender barrels, so I think I'll just stick with 45 grain bullets. I can see where your 22-250 BVSS, at 15 lb., could be a challenge during a day in the woods, especially when climbing up and down hills. I'll bet it will reach out there and touch Mr. Coyote a far piece! Do you get the chance to stretch it's legs on game in your area? Around here, it's usually 100 - 150 yards. That's why I'm interested in the .22 Hornet as a walking around woods gun.

I do not use PayPal at all. In the early years, there was a scammer with a website that looked like PP. I almost got scammed, until I got in touch with the legitimate PP and shut down my account. The scammer... or a scammer, is still out there, and contacts me from time to time, either pretending I have money coming to me... only if I enter my data, or that I owe money... again needing verification of my financial data. I only do business with sellers that will accept a U.S. Postal Service Money Order. Any fraud with a USPSMO is a "federal" offense and I will not do business to a P.O.Box number.I've had good transactions, so far. Just my 2 cents worth. We can't be too careful.

Hozzie, I appreciate your candor on the 204 Ruger round on coyotes. I don't mean to sound like a fur trader, because I'm not. And... getting a nice coyote pelt here in the sweltering climate of middle Tennessee, might be quite a challenge. But, my thinking is that if we had a hard winter, I might be able to get a nice one. If that were to happen, I'd like to get it tanned to keep for myself. I might still look for a 204 barrel for my TC Contender. What kind of gun were you shooting in 204?

Thanks for the information. I have a break barrel Thompson Center Contender, similar to the H&R, with two 22 Hornet barrels... among other barrels. My 22 Hornet barrels are a 10" octogan pistol barrel and a 23" stainless rifle barrel. I'm planning on using the rifle barrel on the yotes. Your uncle saw some beautiful country in Alaska back in the 50s. I spent a year on Kodiak Island, back in the 60s and flew all over Alaska...beautiful country...very frontierish. I hate I never got to do any hunting while there. Back to the Hornet and the Contender. I have three Contender frames, so I may take both a .22 Hornet pistol and .22 Hornet rifle with me on the coyote hunt. Both have scopes, but I'd only try a close shot with the pistol and use the rifle on the longer (150 yd. Max) shots. You wouldn't happen to remember the barrel length and twist on that H&R barrel, would you?

Danger Rane, I'm curious as to what stock set you have and how many rounds you've put through it. I'm not totally sure, but I kinda think that possibly shooting the 3" high power heavy loads may have cracked mine. I've shot both them and some 45 Colt (Long Colt) through it. Not sure what kind of wood these stocks are made of...but it's not very strong. They have a stock set called Tuffy, I believe, that's composite...plastic. Never saw one in real life, but pics don't look too bad.

Smith, you have a name of someone to work with at Taurus? It just seems foolish to have to send the whole gun, especially a long gun, in just to get a stock replacement. A few years back, they sent me some safety parts for a PT22, but I've forgotten who I delt with. I was pleased with the service then. Sure hope this one works out ok too.

I'm right there with you on lusting for a particular model or caliber. I have a Savage 24 fettish myself! Lightning just popped overhead....talk later!