SavageSig

The broiler is nothing to be scared of. Get your steaks down to room temp and sprinkle generously (if they're 2" thick, VERY generously) with Kosher Salt and fresh cracked black pepper. I also rub a little extra virgin olive oil on my steaks: you get a nicer crust that way. If you have a cast iron skillet, do what was mentioned. Heat that sucker up to HOT and sear those steaks and finish in the oven. If it's not HOT, you run the risk of the dreaded gray steak. If you do not have a cast iron skilled, you can cook under the broiler exclusively. This is the way I do it. I have a rack with a pan underneath. I stick the rack under the broiler to pre-heat. I adjust the oven so the rack is as close to the broiler as I can get. I prep my steaks, and when the broiler/rack are hot, I slap the steaks on and broil. Depends on the thickness and what temperature the steaks are at when you start cooking, but generally about 3-5 minutes a side will do it. The rack/pan are important because I've had the grease catch on fire before. It was too close to the broiler. With a little experience, you can easily tell whether the steaks are done by just touching them. They firm up as they get more done. If you're new, I really suggest a thermometer, especially with such thick steaks. Nothing worse than slicing open a steak, letting the juices run out, and find out it's over or undercooked. Nobody mentioned this, but you really MUST let the meat rest before you serve. Take the cooked steaks, put them in a pile, and take a piece of foil and tent them loosely with it. At least 5 minutes, but 10 minutes is better. Please keep in mind that this cooks the steak more, so when you're checking the meat, make sure it's slightly rarer than you like. Enjoy! Ribeye is the BEST steak cut this side of a porterhouse.

60's are cheaper and more accurate than 10/22's out of the box. The barrel is better and the trigger is better (IMHO). 60's don't have cycling issues with cheap ammo. My buddy's 60 shoots BEST with the bulk Federal 550 crap they sell at Wally World. 60's don't have magazines to fiddle with, just a rock solid tube feed. Finally, if you want to mount a scope, you can. If you want to get some kick-butt aperture iron sights, Tech Sights makes a really great set. If you think 164 is a deal for a Savage 64, then I really suggest shopping around for a Marlin. Used, I've seen them as low as 70 bucks. New, I've seen the base model for around 150.

Looks like you're dead set on a semi-auto. Marlin 60 and don't look back.

Right now, about 99 cents from Wal-Mart. Do yours 7S's get in the way of shooting long guns, HexHead?

I've been using ear plugs and cheap muffs, but I was wondering if it would be worth my while to pick up some more expensive hearing protection? Specifically, I was looking at some lower end Peltor noise cancelling muffs. Anybody want to recommend something else? I'm all ears

Seems like a nice enough guy, but I think he's probably in over his head. He listed an item, I emailed him saying I wanted it,and he said the next morning he'd check to see if he's got any spare mags for sale to go along with it. Next day, I emailed him, and he said, "Sorry, sold it this morning." So that's nice, especially coming from somebody who prefers MO or cashier's check. Seems like he should set something aside if he wants to be paid in a way that takes 2-3 days to get to him.

Just curious, why would a dying battery affect your laptop if it's plugged in? I can run my nice PC laptops with their batteries removed without any issue.

Yeah, I just read that they're actually partially cocked, similar to a Glock. I always thought Glock's had very light triggers, so I think I'm going to snag one. It can't be any worse than my GP100 in DA mode.

Is the 3953 also safety-less, like the 4053? Are you comfortable carrying with a round in the chamber? I assume it has all the drop safeties and the like?

I'm considering a 4053 purchase, which a DAO .40 single stack third generation S&W auto. I have not, however, felt a Smith Auto DAO trigger. I have a 645 and I've shot a 5906 before. Is a DAO trigger just like the DA pull on these DA/SAs? Or is it smoother/shorter/lighter? Perhaps comparable to a Smith Reolver? Any info would be appreciated!

I think the RAMI wins in terms of weight and pure tinyness. I think the 3913 or P239 might be slightly slimmer, but only slightly. If you're looking for a kick butt, concealable, tack driving, DA/SA, and hi-capacity 9mm pistol, the RAMI really can't be beat.

It seems like I see more posts about broken Sigs than broken Taurii. My brand new 238 had issues right out of the box and the factory gave me quite the run around. Good luck with your 250.

Oh, don't listen to the lone whiner. Do it Feb 7 and I'll be there for sure!

Sounds like they're trying to put the screws to you. I'd say the chances of them giving you some help is almost nil. If you take it to court, you might get some traction if you spend a fortune on specialists who can say that the shop must have cracked the wheel. I wish you luck. I'm starting to think that taking photographs of every inch of your car before handing it over to anybody for anything is a good idea. That's the only bullet proof way to prove that you're right in situations like this, and any car repair is an expensive repair.

I'm drooling right now thinking of the rumaki.

+1000

What about the Elk River Arms? Any feedback on that?

You might have to look a little hard to find one under 300, but a Smith and Wesson 3rd gen double stack 9mm auto like the 5906 would be hard to beat. Most I've seen are in the 290-350 range. Might be able to find a EAA Witness in 9mm for 300 or less as well. Not a bad choice at all.

I had one. Used to be called the Cadet, then they got sued and so they called it the Colt 22. It's the same design as the Neos and the High Standard Duramatic. There is a Target model, but it looks like you have the standard. Mags are interchangeable with the Neos, which is great because they're super cheap. Mine was a tank and really accurate. Yours is probably the same. The biggest complaint against this gun is the position of the mag release. Easy to pop it loose by accident if it's riding in the holster.

I wouldn't drive that far for a gun that might be crap. However, I have noticed that on GOC a lot of people aren't very computer literate. Many don't list prices or even a decent picture. I get the feeling that for the most part they're grown ups with bigger fish to fry.

Definitely Guns and Leather. You guys can make a day of it, and they have a case full of guns that you can check out. They're also hosting a shoot on Sunday night, and I'm sure you can rent guns then too.

Their ammo is a bit pricey. I hear if you buy by the case, they give you a slightly better deal. They also have frequent sales, and the last time I saw .380, I saw it at Dick's for 18.99 a box/50. Winchest hollow points.

How's the trigger?

I've got my eye on a Remington break open .308. Anyone know if it's just an import they slapped their name on?

I'm really intrigued by the very cheap single shot centerfire rifles being produced by Rossi and Remington and others. I assume they're cheap because of the action and not from cutting corners on accuracy or reliability? Would these be fun guns to punch paper with? I always ignored single shots but time spent with my single shot .22 has proven to be both cheap and fun. I was looking for something to shoot out to 200 yards. Anyone have any personal experience?