SavageSig

Simply gorgeous. That 52-2 is amazing, especially with those grips. I'm really digging those multi-colored magazine bumper pads. Where'd you pick those up?

Thank you, will do. I should also note that I have a Base, and from what I understand the Type-S actually has a different CMC that is sturdier.

So, who's your favorite? I like Arnie, Robert De Niro and The Duke just fine, but my personal favorite is: Kurt Russell I dunno what it is about this guy, but I consistently enjoy his films. Tombstone, Backdraft, the Escape movies, Big Trouble in Little China...all great. He has that aura of a true action star, but he often shows his comedic side. Like in "Overboard". I especially enjoyed his performance in "Soldier", which often flies below the radar. So who do you like and why?

Thank you for the info, been a member since '03. I posted over there, and general opinion is that it might be the CMC. I'm going to get it diagnosed on Monday and see what's up. Pretty good car, right? I've been really happy with mine.

Fluid isn't low. I checked, and it's below the max and above the min line.

What's a good price for that Ishapore? I've always wanted an enfield, and 7.62 Nato is readily available, albeit a bit pricey.

Very interesting. Soft and spongy describe my clutch pedal very well. The first half of the down stroke is effortless, then I start getting slight resistance, which builds progressively to the engagement point on the floor board. All of that resistance is spongier and softer than I'm used to feeling. Then the same in reverse when I let the clutch pedal go. Thanks for all the help fellas. Nobody can look at my car until Monday, so I'll just have to brave it out for the weekend. I think I'm going to use a local garage now: he just called me with a quote for 246 to replace the master cylinder, versus 324 at the dealership. He charges 45/30 min to diagnose, but I trust him to not run over on the bill. I've used him before, and he does pretty good work. Hopefully I don't wreck my gears (quite possible, right?) or get stuck in a gear or something similarly horrible.

Very nice. That color makes the black accessories really pop.

So what symptoms would tell you that it's the master vs the slave cylinder?

Well, after doing some calling around, it seems like the dealer will actually be the cheapest route. 95 to diagnose, then if I get my work done there, they'll put that towards the labor costs. 199.95 in labor + 124.10 for the clutch master cylinder, 199.95 in labor + 68.00 for the slave cylinder. ~600 for the whole thing. If anyone knows of a cheaper but just as reliable place, let me know. I'm all ears. It could be the clutch, but at this point, I'm betting it's the cylinders. Hoping, more like.

Also, my clutch is rather soft now...I had that down to the clutch wearing, but maybe it's the slave too.

That is not something I do regularly. I have heard that it is a quick and dirty test to see if your clutch is slipping.

It's a '03 RSX 5-speed. I checked the fluid levels, and it's above the min but below the max line. I don't think any has leaked out, but I'll keep my eye on it. Doing some research, the clutch master cylinders on these cars are notoriously weak. How do I tell if it's slave vs. master cylinder? Would a flush help, or is that just a waste of money? Looks like I'll have to put that rifle on hold until I get this cleared up. Would you guys not drive the car until it's fixed? I haven't heard any grinding, and I haven't noticed smoke or burning clutch or anything like that.

Sometime during my drive home, my shifts became really hard. I think it's because my clutch isn't fully disengaging. I'm pressing the pedal all the way down to the floorboard, and the revs drop like they're supposed to, but when I try to actually move the shifter into another gear, the synchros or whatever don't want to let it. When the engine is off, the shifter is smooth as butter. My engagement point has been drifting lower for a while now, but it's reached the point where it feels like I'm not fully disengaging, even with the pedal all the way down. I'm pretty sure my clutch isn't worn, as it still grabs nicely and it's never slipped on me once, not even when flooring it in 4th gear at 15 mph. Is there anything specific I can do, or get a shop to do for me? Maybe flush some hydraulic system? Is it easy to adjust the clutch pedal to make the engagement point higher?

Anyone know of a local gun shop where I can look over VZ-24 or other mausers firsthand? Thanks for the link for classicarms, I was checking out their C&R page when I wrote that post. I did play with a mosin at G&L. I wasn't very impressed. Then again, most of my knowledge of WWII firearms has been gleaned from movies and computer games, and the Mosin was never a very sexy weapon.

Beretta Neos. Cheap, accurate, and reliable. Hold one before you buy it because the grip angle is funky, but that design is rock solid. It's been manufactured before as the High Standard Duramatic and Colt .22/Cadet. I had a Cadet, and it would not jam, ever. I never cleaned it either. Same exact gun, even uses the same magazines. Well, I take that back: the Neos has a built in rail so you can mount optics, while the Cadet did not. Buckmark and Ruger Mark I/II/III are also very standard and reliable options. I like the Neos because it's cheaper and, in my experience, just as reliable.

I'm looking at both of these rifles because they're chambered, interestingly enough, in 7.62x39. Anyone have any opinions? CZ 527 -Carbine Length -Express sights -Set trigger -$650 or so Remington 799 -Scope mounts only -"mini-mauser" action -$389 The 527 is calling my name, but it is quite expensive. I could also just give up on 7.62 and get a bolt in .223, which opens up a myriad of options. It just seems like plinking ammo is cheaper in 7.62 than .223 right now, and a 7.62 bolt gun is somewhat unique. What say ye?

So I spent some time plinking with my new-to-me Anschutz Mod 54 Military Trainer, and I really, really, really like it. Enough to want the rifle that this one was trying to emulate. I'm mostly interested in a shooter, rather than a collectible. Some questions: -Is there a certain clone that is superior to the others? I've seen Brazilian, Yugo, etc? Or what exactly is a M48 Mauser? VZ-24? -Should I look for a genuine German produced 98k, or are the higher prices commanded by these due to their history? -Is a Mosin Nagant actually a superior choice? What about an Enfield or that straight pull Swiss rifle I see sometimes? I'm looking for accuracy and available cheap surplus ammo.

Lead is a heavy metal, and there are no biological mechanisms for removing lead from your body. That means the lead that you inhaled shooting as a child is still in your body, and the miniscule amounts of lead that you inhale while shooting for a couple of hours will over time cumulatively affect your body. Lead poisoning can lead to mental instability and sterility, among other things. Not that shooting is the only source of lead in your body: the average American alive today has 200x more lead in their bones than a Native American who lived 2 centuries ago, simply from the lead now present in the environment. You can blame a lot of that on the wonderful leaded gasolines that dominated fuel pumps for decades and leaded paint. You can dig up vintage advertisements trying to convince people that lead is good for you, just like the advertisements that tried to tell you that cigarettes are good for you.

What's the rep of RK shows? Will this be larger or smaller than the one last weekend at the Fairgrounds in Nashville?

Oh wow, I was just there an hour ago. Hope it's nothing serious

Nice man. If this is the full size 1911 that you were miraculously concealing, then it will look awesome once you're done. Definitely post pics when it's finished.

Pretty good pick ups. I like visiting Guns and Leather to see the used items they have for sale. I've gotten a bunch of very good deals from the kinds folks over there.

I'm not sure that's correct. If it's a handgun, yes. Long guns are different, though. Not a lawyer, so don't take my advice.

An update, which verifies my last sentence: My appointment time was 8-11 AM. I get a call just a few minutes ago from the service tech saying since he was out here last week, he knows nothing is wrong with my stuff. He also said that there were three other houses in that neighborhood experiencing the same thing that I was, and we were all supposed to be on "intermittent standby", which means that when I called yesterday, somebody should have been dispatched immediately to my place to look at the neighborhood connection. And when I detached the splitter and suddenly made my modem function, that was all a coincidence. Too bad so sad, we're not coming out to your place and as far as we're concerned, we can't really do crap for you. Like I said, nobody knows what anybody else is doing over there. They're all spouting off individual opinions and calling everybody else that works there liars. It's so stupid. If I didn't already hate AT&T because of their lousy wireless service, I would call them up and start inquiring about their services.