Handsome Rob

To be honest, I really don't think there are any bad uppers.

I want to give you my children. That's an insane job!!!

I'll be honest, it wasn't sure where to post this. I have a really good mate, just got back to TN from his deployment to El paso. He's looking to buy a few guns & he doesn't know of any reputable FFLs in his area. He doesn't want to travel far, so can anyone recommend a good, cheap license holder around Clarksville for transfers?

FAT wrench is the best game in town, price wise. It's not the most precise, but it's better than 'crank it until the Allen wrench flexes' I'm intrigued by the new digital job....

What's a step down from 'underwhelmed'?

The only new Glock I'm ever going to get giddy over would be a single stack 10mm, the same length & hight as a 19, with the width of a 43/48.

I've been wanting to do the self same thing & I haven't found anyone in middle TN that will do it for a reasonable cost. I've been in touch with these guys....http://www.colonialchokeandtool.com/sitemap.php?view=pages & they're prices and turnaround time are pretty tough to beat. I found one other place in California that's got a way faster turnaround (mail it Monday, guaranteed return delivery by Friday) but they're a little more spendy. Colonial have excellent reviews & from everything I can find, a great reputation.

Have you thought about a .17 hornet, or .17 Fireball?

Terrible! I've got no more freezer room for local venison!

You really, really need to stop that. You understand marriage, right?!

Yeah......I need to quit selling ####. Maybe buy a bigger safe.

This is one time I can utterly agree with a Chuck Hawks review. I had a wonderful little .223Axis I chopped down to 16" & it was consistently sub ½moa. I really, really regret parting with that one.

Lots. My 6.5 Swede is built around an Axis action. I'm a massive fan of the platform. But...... The action is great. Literally every other part of the firearm is cheaply built & it feels like it. Nothing (other than barrels) ate interchangeable with the 110 series, aftermarket support is almost non existent (besides Boyd's stocks) & although they're typically 'Savage accurate' they're really, really cheap feeling. I doubt you'd like it at all, to be honest. Nothing like a higher end Savage. I've dumped enough money into mine to have bought 2 Remington 700s now, but I had an idea in mind & well, we all know how that goes! Literally the only stock part is the action body itself.

I wish I'd never read this thread. It got me to thinking about a big folder I sold a few years ago. Sold it for what I thought was an exorbitant price back in '08, £200. I get to thinking I'd like to have another so I checked eBay. Yeah.....Mick Strider XL Custom Monkey Edge. They're between $1300 & $2000 now *sickening facepalm*

To answer a couple of questions..... Anything starting with a '2' or better will kill TN deer at all ranges you'll ever be shooting. Caliber is totally subjective, to be honest. My go-to deer rifle is a 6.5 Swede, among a stable of .308s, '-06s, .358s etc..... It's soft recoil, flat trajectory & wind-bucking ability at longer ranges find me picking it up more often than not. I've shot deer with bullets from 95gn, right up to 160s & they've all universally killed the deer, dead as a wedge. It's far from being my lightest or prettiest gun, but I know exactly how it shoots from the muzzle out to 500yds (if need be) I'm an unabashed fan of Vortex optics. Scopes, binos, the works. My 6.5 is topped with a bottom of the range, $150 Crossfire 4-12x42 (I think) with the bdc reticle & I don't think I've ever cranked it above 8 power (I actually prefer 2-7 power scopes for hunting) If I HAD to only keep one hunting gun for the rest of my life, it'd be my Tikka T3x in .30-06 It'll happily kill anything I'm ever going to shoot with it (including a 450lb cow elk, a couple of weeks back)

If you don't like the scope, sell it on for $100 or slap it on a .22 & you'll still have a chunk of change to invest in some higher end glass.

Were I in your position, I'd scroll down to the classifieds & not hesitate to buy @bluemailman53 Savage .260 It's ballistically identical to the 6.5 manbun & quite frankly, an astonishingly good deal!

A friend just sent me this....

What in the 'Cali-compliment, parts bin, 6 beer, lost youth' hell am I seeing here?? There are VERY few firearms that are aesthetically unpleasant, but this one takes the cake, flips off the baker, slams the door & flicks a match into the damn bakery! Jesus!

I don't honestly remember who I sold it to. I would assume it was on here though.

I had a 16" stainless Rossi in .357 & I regularly kick myself for letting go of her. I did the full action slick-up & trigger job too. What an idiot.....

Yessir, it should.

Wow. I did my apprenticeship on VW aircooled flat fours when I was a kid (sonofa.......30 years ago) Sooooper simple to work on. The only mechanical thing that you absolutely HAVE to check, literally every time you drive it, is the oil level. The oil pan is very wide, very long & very, very shallow. The gap between 'full' & 'top up' is tiny. If it's a hair below 'minimum' on the stick, it WILL seize & throw a rod. I couldn't get The Wife to understand that & replaced 2 1300s & a 1600 Super motor before I sold her '75 out from under her. She honest to God killed 2 in 6 months. Heater exchange elements tend to crap out before anything else (assuming U.S. Spec vee-dubs are the same as UK spec) but they're a simple job to replace. Which engine's in the ragtop you're looking at? I ask, because the cases ate slightly stronger on the 1200 than the 13 or 16s. They're slower by quite a bit than the 1600, but there's not a chance in hell I'd buy a 13 over a 12. If you ever need to work on it, it's much easier to drop the motor out than work around the body. 8 bolts to the bell housing, fuel line, alternator/generator (I don't recall the changeover year, sorry) wiring & throttle cables & you're basically good to go. Jack the motor off the mounts, pull it back, drop it down then pick the chassis up & walk it forward. I reckon it'd take me a couple of hours these days, but when I was doing it for a living, me & Vince (Jesus... I just remembered his name!) had it down to about a half hour to do a complete motor swap!

That's all I paid last time