MacGyver

Per my Avatar, I appreciate anything that can be improvised when things head south. That said, I stand by my earlier caution. Pressing pressure sensitive explosives into a case in close proximity to other explosive media is a bad idea. Sooner or later, you are going to reach down into your bag of luck, and there isn't going to be anything there. Should we ever meet, ask to see the scar on my hand from the unexpected ignition of a matchhead powered rocket when I was 10 or 11. Walking to the 'launchpad' - no dropping it or jarring it - it just lit up.

There has been some history in it, but in general, I would think it to be a phenomenally bad idea - for a couple of reasons. 1. Lead Styphnate, the primary explosive used in most primers is both impact (obviously) and shock sensitive. This includes electostatic discharge from the human body. One spark on a dry winter night, and there goes the neighborhood. Without some heavy duty safety equipment and an expensive press, you very well could blow yourself up. 2. Sourcing reloading mixture (whatever the composition) - this is a primary explosive, and as such I would guess that the BATFE is really going to take exception to people having it in their possession. If you look at what has happened with model rocket enthusiasts, sites like unitednuclear.com and others over the last few years under the misguided focus of DHS, I just can't see it happening. There were guys back in the depression who shaved the heads of strike anywhere matches to reload .22 shells, but it was unreliable then, and the mixture has changed since. Try striking a modern "strike anywhere" match anywhere but on the box and you'll see what I mean.

I am amazed I made it past a certain point in my life without safety glasses. It seems like I put them on religiously now if I am out in the shop or in the garage. Maybe I growing more cautious with age, but I've been struck recently at how many things have flown up and hit my glasses. That said, I'm not sure I would have been wearing them either when changing a baseplate. I've been wondering when you were going to redact that list. The collection seems to have been growing lately?

I find it interesting that opponents of the bill invoke the same states rights arguments that they argue against when it comes to the firearms freedom bills in various states.

What an amazing piece of history - both from your family and our country! Very cool.

I love a good Tomahawk, and really appreciate the fact that there are some great ones on the market today - I really like the ATC ones. That said, they are really only good at one thing - quiet CQB. For any other task there is simply a better more efficient tool - either a machete, saw, axe or in some cases a hammer. Your grandfather taught you to use the right tool for the job, and for better or worse, a modern tomahawk's intended purpose is to punch through helmets and skulls. For survival situations, there is something else to consider, and that is that you are going to spend a whole lot of precious energy using a hawk to perform a task that could be handled better with another tool - and with less chance of injury to yourself while in a compromised position. Do consider one with a nylon handle. The reason is that as an ambulatory member of the male gender, when you get a tomahawk, you are going to proceed directly to the backyard and attempt to throw it at the nearest wooden object of any size. It's going to bounce off that object many times before you get it down, and eventually your handle (even the good hickory ones) is going to break. It doesn't really matter how good you become, there seems to be an effective service life on the handle of a throwing tomahawk. I'm guessing that this is eventually a problem with the nylon ones, too, but maybe to a lesser extent. There's a guy down in Chattanooga that makes some really nice tactical tomahawks. I know at one time he was shipping them over to the sandbox about as fast as he could make them - I expect that has eased a bit by now. Tactical Tomahawks

Casino security is very tight, but focused on a different objective - that is how much a given customer is spending and whether or not they or anyone around them is cheating. Your entire experience in the casino is based on your spending level. Most have thousands of cameras in place, and can track your every move in the public areas and gaming areas. Most casinos are not formally posted, but any of them can ask a customer to leave at any time. As long as you go to Vegas knowing that the house is always going to win if you play long enough, and yet you go because you enjoy the experience, go and have a great time. I can never seem to get past that. For me, the only thing worth seeing in Vegas is 35 miles away at Hoover Dam, and that is a sight well worth seeing.

That's a really great bag. Did you see it in person before you bought it? I was looking at it on their site and in no way thought that the pictures they showed of the bag represented a bag with over 2000 cubic inches of space. I think that's about perfect for a go bag minus a primary weapon.

Sorry for the confusion Hatmaker, I wasn't criticizing your post. Since David asked about shooting 7.62 in a .308 - that is the reverse of the .223/5.56 argument. You can shoot either in a rifle marked 5.56, but not shoot 5.56 in a .223. Unlike the 7.62 where depending on the vintage/headspace you can get in trouble shooting commerical .308. I should have been more clear in my post.

It's actually the reverse of the .223/5/56 argument. It's okay to fire 7.62 in a rifle chambered for .308, but may not be okay to fire .308 in a rifle chambered for 7.62. While they are approximately the same size dimensionally, 7.62 is spec'd to have a thicker wall thickness. There probably wouldn't be a problem with a newer rifle, but in an old Mauser or something similar there could be. Here's a link if you are interested: 7.62x51mm NATO or 308 Winchester? What's the Difference?

They typical rule of thumb is that you need to be in th $0.07-0.10/kWh range to make this break even over the long term(8-10years). As it sits right now, TVA is paying consumers $0.15/kWh for up to 50kWh of production as a part of their 'Green Power Switch'. If you sell it as a corporation, they are paying $0.20/kWh. You sell everything you produce to them, and since you are consuming at the same time, if it works out that there is a surplus at the end of the month you get a credit. Currently Nashville Electric Service is around $0.085/kWh, so if you consume less than you make, you get a credit of approximately $0.065/kWh. I expect other electric services consuming from the TVA are similar. Things to consider - we aren't in what is typically considered a great solar generating zone, so you can expect some factor less than the rated capacity of the panel. Also, since you are only really generating anything of use about 6-8 hours a day, make sure you include this in your math when you are calculating payback. You aren't generating for the entire 744 hours in a 31 day month. Last, take a look at your electric bill to see your average use of electricity. They typical home in middle Tennessee uses about 1250-1350kWh/month - obviously your home may be significantly different. If you are considering solar, your home and usage may already be much more efficient than the average home. If it's not, assuming you don't have other 'survival' reasons for adding the gear, the money may be better spent, and you may get faster payback performing other efficiency upgrades and getting a generator. All that said, solar panels are pretty dang cool. Especially some of the new ones that can superheat water at the same time.

+1 on the Fox40 or the mini40. Hands down the absolute loudest whistles out there in a form factor that lends itself to you actually having it on you when you need it. Amazon.com: Fox 40 Mini: Sports & Outdoors

Looks like I'll finally get the chance to see how some of those non-Lake City bulk packs I'm always so squirrelly about buying function. I'd definitely be interested.

Nice. Congratulations.

Upgraded from the gen1 today. Despite having to go to green hills mall to pick it up before leaving on a case, pretty painless upgrade. New hardware is pretty good. Not a major difference from the 3g, but a lot faster than gen1. I'm happy with the switch.

I have come full circle this week. For years I carried a Spyderco rescue. It was the knife that set the standard of what a knife should be for me. Fast, sharp, good size. Then 9/11 came along and we couldn't fly with our blades anymore. I spent a lot of time in the field, and during a particular case that I was on for about 2 years, picked up a CRKT M16 and started carrying that. Another great knife, but it had some shortcomings. It was very durable, but it was a combo edge which I really don't like, and the combination of the pocket clip and the thumb stud absolutely wore out whatever pants I was wearing. I would have a pair of pants that could have lasted another couple of years had the right pocket not been so frayed by the knife. Last winter I picked up a Benchmade Pika II. I know that it was in their red 'value' series, but I expected better of Benchmade. Every knife I have ever had of theirs was outstanding, but this one was a piece of trash. Tough to put an edge on and wouldn't hold one for anything. Not to mention the pocket clip was not designed with enough tension to stay on a pair of jeans, much less a pair of suit pants. So, all that to say a couple of weeks ago, I purchased a Spyderco Military. It is in a word everything that a knife should be in my opinion. Wickedly sharp out of the box. Fast to open and easy to close with one hand. Good pocket clip and the G10 scales are outstanding. It's big - a little bigger than the Endura - closer to the old Police model, but perfect in my hands. You can do a little knife job with a big knife, but not vice versa. I got it for right at $100.

Spyderco Tri-angle sharpener. Got the ultra-fine rods along with the medium and fine that came with it. Gets my knives wickedly sharp in about a minute. I can put a finer edge on with a set of stones or my Lanskys, but the Spyderco rods beveled at 20 degrees make a more durable edge - especially if you grind a back bevel first. I've gone back to a plain edge after using fully serrated and combo edges. Serrated edges have their place. I think the combo edges are a fad that we are likely to see fade a bit. The tri-angle sharpener does a good job on serrations if you have them.

Dick's at cool springs had a full stock of everything but 380 tonight. Hundreds of boxes of 9mm, .40, 5.56, and 45. First selection of more than one brand of 45 I've seen in a while. I left every bit of it for you guys, too. Didn't buy a thing.

I've got a couple of the 30rds. They have always worked well for me.

We've been seeing several woodchucks around Nippers Corner

Carbine. If your going short, go short.

Crosman 760 Pumpmaster - a pellet gun, but it changed my world Charter Arms AR-7 - A whole lot of fun that fits in backpack - and it really does float Ruger 10/22 - The gold standard of a youth well spent.

I do like those flip up caps.

If you don't mind non-factory here's a source: Walther P99 9mm 15 Rd Promag Gun Magazine - $24.95 Walther P99 9mm 15 Rd Promag Gun Magazine I ended up ordering factory stamped magazines from Amazon. Paid $41 each. There are probably local sources that stock them today. No one seemed to have them when I was looking.

I ordered several a while back. Let me check and see if I can find the reciept.