Rob White

Ok, so they saying ATF doesn't make the law, however they will enforce it. Im not sure I totally believe they don't have influence over the law, but when you call the ATF or state police they are usually really nice dudes and pro guns and pro concealed carry and all of that. Probably even more than me:) So where is all the anti-2A and anti-gun push even coming from? Corruption ? Money? Control? And then the media further purposely enflames the situation by trying to drive a wedge between the ATF and whoever has the issue. It gets to be totally ridiculous and very disruptive to our society. Its seems our legal system is really struggling right now and I believe its mostly due to political corruption. The paragraph I quoted from the ATF website was just them answering a question trying to give people their simplified version of the law. The actual law in the book is like 2 pages of (word calculus) for legal scholars so I don't know if you really feel like wasting your time with it. Like I said before "to me its not worth $50"... The really shady part about this is the whole "importation" part. I see some mentions on some website about them not allowing people to use foreign parts kits for things like those uzis and the hks and some others, but Im not sure how true any of that is. I guess its easy enough for you to call them if you are really considering a build. AR-15s have plenty of companies in the US manufacturing parts kits, but Im not so sure about those other guns. I think about it as a hunter and I see bunch of legal traps set up by either federal or state lawmakers and then the ATF is setup as just one of the agencies who just watches the traps , hoping someone steps in one. (Now some states help remove those traps from harming their citizens and some states actually not only encourage the traps but set up even more traps of their own.. Lol that's just how I see man. Im just a guy that says "hey that looks like a trap so I wouldn't step there":)

I used to think so also, but the way things are these days Im no longer comfortable in the belief that the government of my own country wouldn't do some shady #### to imprison me and take away my rights and guns just to Advance a political agenda. There is always the "small writing" that you need to be weary of. Honestly I don't know much about gun build laws and gun classifications these days as I mostly focus on game hunting. Its all just a bunch of confusing non sense to me. Sometimes you better off just paying the bribe, I mean the fee:) Just saying $50 or whatever it cost to get the paperwork may be worth it in the long run unless the whole point is not having paper and then you only good until someone with more power than you says otherwise. JMO. This is from the ATF website: What is this even saying? I have two college degrees and yet I can't read these statements and understand whether or not something is legal. This is confusing to me...IS an ar-15 sporting or non sporting?, is an hk91 sporting or non sporting? Is there an actual official or even un official list somewhere? Im not sure what they consider "non-sporting" and how set in stone that classification is? Is it something where the actual definition is going to keep changing? Also how far down the supply chain are they referring to when they define "import" bc every single gun in America will have more than 10 "imported" parts some point if you go far enough down the supply chain line unless they dig up the iron ore and forge the part and cut and then assemble it all in house...

you have convinced me to dehydrate:) how long do you suggest. Do you think over night should be fine or longer? I have often wondered about my powders ability to absorb moisture in the past and how that could possibly affect charge weights and ignition but then I just figured I was "overthinking" as I often do... Step 9 may/may not be needed. Just something that was adopted from pistol loads to prevent double charges but im not sure that's even possible with 308 loads due to case volume restrictions. Honestly I haven't gotten that far yet. I have toyed with the idea of eventually trying to work up a ball powder load that meters "correctly" with the charge bar just too produce some bulk target ammo but im still not convinced that will be worth the time invested and start overthinking and questioning my need for bulk target ammo. I guess if I ever feel that me or my friends and family need that much practice then I will pump some out:)

Ok I should mention the reason I have the wet tumbling process at all is bc Im trying to clean some fairly dirty once fired NATO brass I got for around $300 for 1000 cases and the cases seem better machined than commercial brass. The primer holes are all centered perfectly and a lot cleaner cut on the inside which is why I am interested in converting these into hunting ammo. I got the brass from some online site called (armorally), they were pretty dang dirty (not comparable to loading commercial brass) and I had great results with my wet tumbling with "quality" stainless pins that don't rust from Frankford arsenal a tiny bit of (dawn and lemishine method). And I dried the cases in the 200 degree Louisiana sun that was beaming down this summer for several hours and then stored them in a hot shed for several days before going to the next step. I like the idea of depriming before wet tumbling and drying in a dehydrator . I need to try a batch to see how that affects the overall timing of the process. I don't have the money yet to add a good case annealer that I would be happy with and that is why I don't anneal yet. I see many don't like the idea of tumbling live rounds, and neither do I, for all the stated reasons and that is why Im fishing for alternatives. I worry about denting or altering the necks or chamfer if I tumble after resizing and trimming..., but I feel so far the consensus here (and in my mind) is saying its better to tumble for 30 minutes in corncob after full length resizing to remove lube vs tumbling a live round vs leaving the lube on the bullet. I wouldn't suggest this for benchrest shooters or anybody shooting out to 1000 but I think it will work just fine and may be superior to factory for hunting ammo for deer and pig. So changes are: UPDATED VERSION FOR DIRTY BRASS: 1. Clean Brass with stainless media in wet tumbler. (Deprime first if decapping die is available) 2. Dry brass in sun or dehydrator. 3. Lube Brass (rcbs case slick) and run through full length resizing die and then cleaned off with towel to remove some of the lube. [Station 1] 4. Tumble wiped cases in corn cob media in vibrating tumbler for 30 minutes. 5. Primer pockets cleaned using rcbs primer brush mounted in a Lyman case prep station. (Checked with go/no gauge and swage if needed) 6. Trim entire batch on giraud power trimmer. 7. Prime brass (Im undecided on whether to prime using Dillon 550 or Rcbs Hand Priming tool) 8. Drop powder charge, (weighed manually) using funnel setup on Dillon or hornady powder die [Station 2] 9. Check charge using hornady powder cop die [station 3] 10. Seat bullets to final depth [station 4] 11. Check bullet with case gauge and overall length with micrometer.

In todays climate you need to make sure you know how and when to register certain parts of a "flat" or "kit" if you are attempting a build. Certain parts have to be registered with an ffl once they reach a certain level of completion. Im not sure what you are trying to build nor what kind of functionality you are attempting but even as a hobby or for personal use you definitely need to have #### done correctly especially if you posting it all up in online forums. Im not a legal expert on this but certain receiver parts need to be registered with an ffl at a certain point of their completion so just a fyi in case you didn't already know. Besides that disclaimer if you are just trying to learn how to weld thin metal then just try to stick with one process such as tig for mild steel and get good at it. Yes it will cost you some money but all hobbies do and it shouldn't be that bad if you just stick to basics and don't get to extravagant. I think a lot people would wonder why someone would rather go through all that trouble to weld a few little pieces of thin metal and start to get all in their feelings and making assumptions about intentions and such. Like why just not let a welding shop weld it rather than try to tig yourself. I understand its a hobby but do you really take a chance at ruining good parts in the name of welding practice? IDK... So if you want to learn how to tig weld thin metal together (without fancy equipment) maybe start off researching (how to tig weld on DC- ) or (how to tig weld using old 250amp Lincoln ideal arc AC/DC) or something similar . Anyone wanting to learn to "really weld" can do so with an old welding machine like a 250 amp Lincoln AC/DC Ideal Arc ~($300), Bottle of argon gas ~($200), a good argon regulator ~($80), scratch start tig torch setup with valve in handle ~($200), welding helmet and welding gloves. So about $800 total to start the hobby. Its really not bad considering that's all good quality items and can be used for many many other uses and can weld just about anything except aluminum unless you add a (hifreq) box... Compare that to prices of a Lincoln square wave $2400 or a miller multimatic 250amp $5000-$6000 and you realize why someone would take the $800 route. Welding supplies are bought from real welding companies such as airgas, Lincoln, miller, local welding supply house , cyberweld.... Not harbor freight! Start with some research as I am not a welder...Im just a dude that works on boats but I hope this points you in the right direction...

Get yourself a used cracker box on market place or ebay like a 225amp or 250amp Lincoln . Then practice running rods on a flat piece of metal. Then when you get the hang of that you can learn to get two pieces of metal to stick together . Once you get the hang of welding things together you can then learn more about your machine and how to run different processes on it such as tig or mig and what equipment you may need to do so. Welding stick can be a fun and not so expensive hobby but once you get into lots of different processes and more and more fancy equipment to do a better job and make things easier it gets very expensive very quickly. If your goal is to weld machine parts together very precisely you are better off getting a welding shop with good equipment and experienced welders do the job for you. if you just wanting to learn welding as a hobby just start with a cracker machine until you outgrow it.

Ok Im trying to figure out a "decent" reloading method for 308 win using a Dillon 550 and giraud model trimmer. The goal is to make high quality hunting ammo for a bolt action that shoots good out to around 500 yards. I want to be able to load around 100 rds per run. I like to drop each powder charge manually so will not be using charge bar. I been using lake city brass so not sure exactly how that will change things. I would like to develop a method in which I can load 100 rds of ammo in under 2 hrs. I didn't make a run yet but these are my plans so far...I look forward to hearing any input advise or pointing out of mistakes from individuals who are more experienced reloaders. I am new to semi-progressive/progressive reloading but have done some simple loads on single stage setup and workups in the past for my socom. So far I have : 1. Clean Brass with stainless media in wet tumbler. 2. Dry brass in sun. 3. Lube Brass (rcbs case slick) and run through full length resizing die and then cleaned off with towel to remove some of the lube. (Im not sure how much effort I should put into trying to remove all of the lube completely)[Station 1] 4. Primer pockets cleaned using rcbs primer brush mounted in a Lyman case prep station. 5. (Now im not sure if tumbling in corn cob at this point would affect the sizing on my brass so I will go straight to trimming) 6. Trim entire batch on giraud power trimmer. 7. Prime brass (Im undecided on whether to prime using Dillon 550 or Rcbs Hand Priming tool) 8. Drop powder charge, (weighed manually) using funnel setup on Dillon or hornady powder die [Station 2] 9. Check charge using hornady powder cop die [station 3] 10. Seat bullets to final depth [station 4] 11. Tumble final bullet in corn cob to remove wax [still undecided on whether tumbling in step 5 would be better] Notes: -I have considered moving full length resizing to the single stage press but I don't see any benefit of freeing up Station 1. -I realize I may have to test and play with primer pockets of the Lake city cases to make sure they have no crimp and primers are seating correctly. -In the future I may consider trying to move or swap station to incorporate an instant dial indicator to measure final length.

Does the right side chamber have a crack in the barrel or is that just a reflection?

Boatman Ive suffered plenty with my knees over the years and considered knee replacements and many other treatments suggested by the surgeons over the years. I ended up with a doctor suggesting an osteotomy rather than a replacement and it has become one of the single most biggest mistakes in my life. I won't bore you with an extremely long story but I ended up with a DVT blood clot in my leg and I will suffer the rest of my life with it so best advise I can give you from my experience is summarized as such: 1. Never let a surgeon convince you that a surgery is your best option bc they get paid a lot of money no matter what the outcome . They are experts at being super confident and making you feel ok with your decision. You have to live it. 2. If you do get a surgery get the most common surgery that is performed daily on old ladies and stuff, never ever ever. Never!! get an osteotomy. I woke up from the surgery after the morphine wore off litterally screaming in pain and have been in pain ever since. much more pain than before the operation. 3. Be weary of dvt blood clots bc they are killers and are one of the worse things that can happen to you in your life. They are more common in knee surgeries than the doctors and hospitals let on and can easily ruin your life. So basically if you can take the pain I wouldn't risk the surgery until it is so unbearable you feel you can no longer survive without it bc much can go wrong and you can easily be left in more pain than before the surgery. 4. If you do decide to have the surgery several things can be done to try and aid recovery and prevent negative outcomes such as the ice water machine many have already mentioned , losing weight before the surgery can greatly reduce the chance of dvts, also avoiding any medication that alters hormone levels, and they are continuing motion devices and leg air circulation pumps that can keep you blood moving while you are laid up. Sorry if that was too long and good luck with your decisions man. Hope this helps...

I was speaking mostly about (Louisiana) dealings on both the commercial and residential sides. Commercial is much worse being that peoples entire livelihoods are affected by such actions. Old men in their 70s still trying to work as best they can being bullied and pushed around by some crooked peckerheads all trying to dip their weaseling fingers in the cookie jar. Their objective isn't managing a fishing and hunting industry so everyone can hunt and fish happily ever after. They try to block as many people as possible from fishing and hunting anything that both is and isn't privately owned or leased. They try to pass so many laws and licenses and fees that you can't fish your own property much less public. They pass laws that take private leases away from the original people who had them only to award drilling permits to oil companies so they can make more money rather than the lease holders. They award those same leases to their friends and family members on the board. They pass laws and close seasons early and move pollution lines around to their liking just to block certain individuals from making a living while allowing their people to do whatever they like by not enforcing the same laws on them. I have seen with my own eyes ten boats dredging only a half of mile in "closed waters" and 8 of those boats got very expensive tickets and their catch and equipment confiscated while the other two boats got to stay there working and not bothered by those same agents!! I don't think just reading these words anyone can really feel how messed up and unfair that actually is but its tough to get along with these actions going on. Then they use state resources to enforce such laws on you even if you don't try to color outside their unfair lines. They fly and monitor everyone with airplanes and satellites . They use thermal goggles and flir to watch people and follow them around making sure they don't break any of the 1000s of laws they have created. They make a lot of the private lease holders that aren't on the board attach gps beacons to their vessels to make it easier for them to monitor with the satellites . Yeah I would they have gone way too far on their "overreach", but the truth is its way too late for most old men who already lost their way of living. Im sure they are some good agents that just enjoy their job in the woods and want to make life better for everyone but those same good people are ignoring the actions of their bosses and boards and not saying anything about the bad peckerheads that are going around doing the bidding of the thieves. But at the end of the day this is just my opinion and people can do whatever the heck they want to do and believe what they want to believe but this is what I see!!

I agree with most of the replies left by everyone so far. I still feel that state wildlife agents should have a warrant before they enter private property if they "suspect" or "assume" that a law is being broken. Also definitely as someone has pointed out that no tickets should be written if no crime has been committed I have seen so many people have to go to court to plead their case and get their guns back just because of overzealous agents making "assumptions" about their intentions. I also get angry when I have to chase off poachers from my own land so yes I do understand and appreciate very much the importance of the job they are doing not only protecting my property but the game also. However, I don't buy into the idea that they can manage game population better than I can do on my own property!! I have seen over and over how my state lies about how much seafood and game is available and try to alter the seasons and control different areas to appeal to people with certain interest and have members on their boards. I been to the meetings and I understand what is going on. I don't think most people realize such things so I try to highlight it and point it out just to raise awareness of such actions sometimes. Lots of time state wildlife biologist do little mini experiment that have very limited scientific validity and they pass it off as hard science to get laws passed and seasons and gps lines moved to their liking to appease the board members and controlling interest. Private Property should be private and both state wildlife agents and poachers should stay off it in a "perfect world". There is plenty of punishments for people who are poachers ,as most of us can think of:) I guess I feel like there should be more stringent punishments for overzealous agents, especially when citations have been given and no crime has been committed. "Sorry about wasting your time" or , "here you can have you gun back", doesn't quite set things right with the world...

Ok so silly question but I really don't understand why state game laws apply to private property? It seems to me that one should be able to control the animal activity and population control of their own private property. Why can a wildlife agent give you a ticket for patrolling your own property with a weapon even though you haven't killed any game just bc it is hunting season. Im not a lawyer but I do question the legality of such actions???

Ok I have an old side by side shotgun that had the barrel shortened due to a mishap with some mud in the barrel while crawling in the marsh on some ducks as child and was wondering if that is something that can be fixed by a gunsmith by finding a gunsmith to instal choke tubes in the shortened barrel or would it still not hold a pattern past 20-30 yards? The gun isn't worth much money but I would still love to hunt with it again if possible.

Just saying hi to get 1 of my 10 post out of the way. So far I see there is lots of rules so hopefully I don't accidentally break anything before I learn the format:) Ok well hi everyone and I look forward to learning something new and/or sharing any useful information with my fellow hunters out there.