gregintenn

Damn sure is!!!

I love guns as much as anyone, but this looks completely useless to me. How can you achieve any accuracy from such a thing? Do yourself a favor and buy a 92 carbine instead.

Looks good! There's no reason to take that load now and adjust the OAL and see what effect that has. Another cheap trick you can try is to insert a piece of plastic, such as a credit card under the foreend, between it and the barrel. Shoot a group. Add another thickness and shoot another group. Sometimes a bit of pressure helps, somtimes it hurts. If you don't want the added trouble, you have a great deer rig just as it sits. TO prevent boredom, I like to see exactly how much accuracy I can get from one.

As for the CZ 52, I bought two for $70 at an auction some time back. They appeared to be unfired. I don't feel like I got too good of a deal. I've seen smoother toy pistols. The entire gun is covered in machine marks, the firing pins aren't good for a box of shells, the grips are held in place by a gaudy metal clip, and the decocker will fire a round about every fourth try. I have no experience with the commercial CZ pistols, but theey sure look a lot better than the 52s.

You were a bit rough on that poster. If I buy a new in the box pistol, I would expect it to work without someone needing to file anything. If that's too much to ask, I must take my place as a snob. As for the most underrated pistol, I nominate the lowly model 10 Smith and Wesson. Although the old police turn ins are getting harder to come by, a smoother, more accurate handgun can't be had for several times the price.

If it all went perfectly, it would soon become pretty boring.

That would be quite handy to have lying around. Perhaps keep one in the truck. As it comes with a free bore light, it sounds like quite a deal to me. You've got me thinking about picking up a few for Christmas gifts.

It would cost thousands of dollars to shoot the barrel out on a 300 Mag. Even if you handload.

This morning, I no more than got situated in my stand, when a nice buck shows up right beneath me from outta nowhere. I raise my rifle when it hits me....I didn't put a shell in the chamber yet!. I load the gun, and the deer runs back through the woods, and stops in a clear spot. I put the rifle on him and shoot. He runs off. I went to see if I hit him, and didn't find any sign of it. On my way back to the stand, about head high, I see a large bright spot on a dogwood tree. Upon closer inspection, i find a bullet hole, directly through the center of it. I think this is the same deer I missed last Saturday. He must have nine lives.

I'd think that if the bore looks good, you see no visible damage, and all the mechanical parts work correctly, you've found a good buy on a rifle. Perhaps it's one that has sat in the rack a while and he's just ready to get rid of it. Ask him. If you get it and don't like it, I think you could sell it again and not lose a lot of cash. You hear a lot of talk about barrels being "shot out", but the fact is that almost no one shoots a centerfire rifle enough to hurt the bore.

I find the maximum charge in modern reloading manuals to be somewhat conservative. I've yet to find any problems with excessive pressures with any I've tried. However, there's always a first time. I assume the difference in the max loads between manufacturers is a result of the variations of equipment used to obtain the results.

Yeah. That's definitely a bargain. I don't know what to tell you, but I'd be leery as well.

That is a nice piece indeed. Looks like you live in a pretty good community as well.

SO, what can you get it for?

...and if ya thought regular 16 guage shells were in short supply.....

Answers.com - What is the value of a Browning Sweet Sixteen There's a bunch of info about Browning Auto 5s on the web.

It appears shorter than factory, ans should have a buttplate made from horn instead of a rubber recoil pad. Don't think so. The "Sweet Sixteen" shotguns had that inscription engraved in the side of the receiver.

Looks like a Browning A5. There are scads of them out there, and the nice ones are bringing some pretty good money. They seem to have a cult like following. The one you pictured is a pretty early specimen. Looks like it has been abused. The stock has been cut. If it is mechanically sound, it would make a good shooter, but in it's shape, it wouldn't command a high price as a collector. It was manufactured prior to 1939. What else were you wanting to know about it?

Looking good! I really like that set of white mikarta? grips.

Peruse the web for articles by Massad Ayoob. I think he's covered similar topics in the past, and his writing is concise and easy to follow.

Right. Reloading for handguns requires several considerations. You'll need a load that functions correctly in your pistol, works the recoil spring reliably, and hits the point of aim at your preferred distance. Sometimes a max load will do this, often times not.

I've never given much thought to barrel length. You do, of course, lose velocity as you shorten the barrel. I'm not sure what effect this has on pressures. I've never been a fan of pushing the envelope on velocities of a given cartridge anyway. I'd prefer opting for a larger cartridge instead, if I feel that what I have isn't adequate. I have an old Sierra Manual that I use for nearly all of my data, and it hasn't steered me wrong yet. I shoot several different brands of bullets, but all of which are pretty traditional in their composition.

For the most part, a bullet of the same weight and shape can be loaded using load data from most any load manual. Some will list slightly different data than others, and you'll find the old manuals will often list hotter loads than newer manuals. There are differences in some bullets. For example, with rifle bullets, one of the solid copper bullets of the same weight will be longer than a traditional lead core bullet. This increases surface area, and therefore friction in the barrel, which changes chamber pressures. This will result in different loads for the same weight and caliber bullet. As for 45 cal 230 gr FMJ bullets, as far as I know they's all be pretty much the same. Conventional wisdom states that one should begin with the published minimum load and work his way up toward the maximum load cautiously, and in small increments, watching for signs of excessive pressure. Different guns will vary slightly in chamber pressures firing the same load.

So far, so good. It is pretty accurate, has a great trigger, three dot adjustable sights, ambi safety, feeds and ejects reliably, and feels and works just like any 1911. I think it's a lot of gun for $300.

Model SPR94 Shotgun/Rifle Combonation THis one looks to be discontinued, but you might find someone who still has one in stock. http://www.predatormastersforums.com/baikal.html Here it is without the Remington stamp.