gregintenn

Anything aluminum or steel should be tossed. I doubt you'll see it if you're shooting current production ammo, but if you ever read A-MERC on a piece of brass, dig a hole and bury it! All else is good to go as far as I know; unless you may have some Berdan primed foreign military stuff.   I buy once fired 9mm brass. It is usually a mix of brands, and so far, all works great. You should really get set up to reload.

No hazmat endorsement required. I think the cost is 40 something dollars. I'll only need to renew it once most likely. Mainly, it sounds like a pretty good PITA for something I'm almost sure I'll never use, need, or want. Such is life I supose.     There's the kind of stuff I'm looking for. Thanks.

If it doesn't pass your smell test, leave it alone. Something about it doesn't seem quite right to me either.

You're ****in' me!!??!!?? :cool:

I believe they will make provisions for the driving portion of the test, but I will pay for the written test. Training, however, has yet to be explained.   I was mainly concerned about the health card.   Sounds like this is going to be one big pain in the rear. Anytime you deal with the DMV it usually is.   I'm not really upset about having to do it, I just wanted to know if there were any pitfalls someone could help me avoid. Sounds like it'll be pretty straightforward.

It means "except tractor trailer". Pulling a backhoe with a dumptruck is what they're after if I'm not mistaken.

I believe the 57 restriction is pretty much pulling a backhoe behind a dump truck.

They just said "Get a class A CDL with an N endorsement. 57 restriction permitted."            

Yeah. I work for TDOT. They told us they wanted a better qualified workforce, so everyone in the engineering dept. has to get a CDL, and everyone in the maintenance dept. has to get a GED. :shrug: I suppose it might be in case of a severe emergency, I could help out with maintenance issues. I really don't know.

Thanks.

Here's the thing, TDR.   I've never driven a truck. I do not have access to a truck. I'm not sure how they expect me to learn to drive one.   They just said "Get a class A CDL with an N endorsement. 57 restriction permitted."

What does the physical involve? I'm not a fan of doctors. On the odd occasion I need to go, I usually go to my friend's wife. I'm not comfortable with her checking a prostate, hernia, etc. You know what I mean?

When we were teenagers, I remember a guy throwing up in a buddy's truck......right down the defrost vent in the dash!!! :puke: There just ain't no cleaning that up.   My rule is to "Leave it like you found it".

:rofl: I work in an engineering office. We don't even have drivers.   Oh yeah, this is for a dump truck/trailer/tanker. I guess I'm gonna be volunteered for snow plow duty this winter?

Not wise, no matter what the offer, and no matter who made the offer.

I'm told that I need to get a CDL for work. I do not know why, but whatever. I know there is a written test, a safety check test, and a driving test. I am also aware that I need a "health card".   What all is involved in getting the health card? Is there any other possible stumbling blocks I should be aware of?   I've worked at the same place for more than 20 years, and have never seen the inside of a big truck cab. :shrug:

I don't know if you're ever in Lafayette, but this guy has the best price I've seen. $310-$20=$290 If I read his ad correctly.

Never had a dehumidifier, and never had any problem with my reloading supplies.

I just can't remember......neither can I remember where my instructions and box are. It did seem like a fairly stiff load, but it was scary accurate.

I have plenty I've picked up along the way at decent prices. I just can't fathom the current prices. They don't appear any more labor intensive to produce than say an AR or AK magazine, which sell for a fraction of the cost.

Can anyone tell me why they are $50 a piece??!!!?? :stunned:   And why no one can make a reliable aftermarket mag for them?

I use pyrodex.   Been a while, but to the best of my recollection, the load called for in my instructions was level with the top of the cylinder. Mine is a steel frame however, so take it for what it is worth.

They ain't making any more, and therefore, you shouldn't expect them to get cheaper.

Why it should make a fine deer rifle. What exactly are you asking?

Once normal prices and inventories return, you'll find a pretty good savings in reloading 223 over buying it. What else you'll find is you end up with a higher quality ammunition if you do it right.   You won't recognize a lot of savings on your first run, but the real savings is when you reload the brass you've picked up for free. 8-12 cents a bullet, 4 cents a primer, and  10 cents a powder charge. I doubt you'll see 223 for 26 cents a round again. If you do, it'll be the Russian, steel cased junk.