BPE

Here, this is a test for you. New line above. Another new line. Two new lines.

Recently when I make a reply or post that includes a blank line, the HTML code is shown in the post. If I choose to edit the post and just press save without changing anything the <br/> tags are removed and blank lines remain as expected. Any ideas?

Dolomite: I picked up a nice IWB from D&T Arms this weekend for my PF9. I understand you specifically asked for OWB but what they had on hand fit the gun very well. vaiger: Do you recall where you picked up that grip? Link?

Man, that sucks that happened to you. It's also unfortunate as Guns and Leather is my favorite shop in all of the Middle TN area. There are really great guys up there, good 'ole boys as you call them. I've never seen them discriminate against anyone I've gone there with and we aren't walking around with bills hanging from our necks either. I've only ever purchaser one very cheap handgun from them so I'm not what you could call a regular and receiving special treatment. The service they've provided has always been top notch and they've been extremely helpful with my questions and inquiries. Again, your experience sucked and I'm not trying to say your reaction or perspective of quality of service during your visit is wrong, just not the norm from my own visits. I wanted to reply so the shop would take the hit necessary for the lack of service it provided you while not being eternally, completely da**ed for life due to a single encounter by the rest of the readers of this forum.

That should have been http://free-av.com - sorry.

More than likely a virus. Press the Windows key and R. Type 'msconfig' and disable all Startup items on the Startup tab. Backup data. Either take to a repair shop, friend in the know or reload OS yourself. Or maybe time for a new PC. You said in your post you switched ports for your master drive. This terminology typically refers to IDE technology. If you have a system with an IDE drive it is time to upgrade and worth your money and saved time to do so. Best of luck. Though, you shouldn't need luck, just a little work to get it all sorted out. And hang up Avast and AVG. Find AntiVir at http://free-wc.com. It may not correct your current issue but will most definitely prevent it from happening again.

Jonin, I recently reloaded .380, 9mm, .40 and .44 Mag with TiteGroup. Results at the range were perfect. You are correct about not filling up the brass but it still goes bang. Watch the Lee Powder messure though. I found that I have to tap on mine to ensure proper and even pours. The first time using this powder you may heed Lee's suggestion to fill the Powder Messure full and run it through to prime the measure. After doing this and allowing the in internal components to get "lubricated" in the dust the accuracy and consistency tightened up considerably on my loads. Best of luck. If you use #2 let me know how it works out. I'm looking for an alternate powder to test out differences for giggles. But it will take time to make it through my initial 4 lb. purchase at ~5 gr. a pop.

Well... Thank you all for the information and resounding agreement that weight is the only way to go. I picked up a digital scale today at A-H Reloading on 4th Ave South in Nashville, near my office. Good guys there and it seems they just opened their doors. Turns out to be a faulty Lee scale that was not calibrated correctly. I still don't have the ability to calibrate it but will do so soon so I can tag team the scales as suggested. Now, for a slight follow-up question I'm almost too embarrassed to ask. As I was loading by weight tonight and it was moving slowly but I took my time to do it right. As I finished up and got ready to prime the next 300 brass for tomorrow night's adventure I got a wild hair and threw a bullet on the scale. Much to my disbelief a reading of 165 grains showed up. The box I have of 500 bullets (.40 S&W) is labeled 155 grains. After picking up my jaw and slapping myself for not checking this as a first step and instead taking for granted proper labeling I rushed to Hodgdon's website for load data (TiteGroup). They list only a 165 grain HP on their page. My bullets are not HP but just regular plinking bullets. That being said, I was using load data for 155 grain bullet at 5.6 Starting and 5.9 Maximum loads. I hit 5.7 every time to stay happily center of safe. Hodgdon's site for 165 grain shows 4.6 Starting to 5.1 Maximum loads. Am I now resigned to go back to the reload shop to get a puller and undo my loading of 150 rounds? I hate to think that I will but that's really the only choice I see at the moment. Any alternates here or "bite the bullet" and just do it right the second time around? I'm not heading to the range until Saturday to enjoy the fruits of my labor and if I leave behind the first 150 rounds I can still have fun with the remaining 300. It really ticks me off I got this far only to have to turn around but I have no one to blame but myself. I won't be making this mistaken again... soon. Again, thank you all for the willingness to share your expertise and experiences with me. Your sound advice is being implemented to the best of my ability to ensure safety and a heck of a good time on the firing range.

I'm using Lee Carbine dies for all calibers on my Lee press. I hear that other manufacturers are preferred by those who reload often but this was a nice starter set for me and the one stage process is perfect, I feel, for keeping me under control and not prone to rush. Thanks for the additional tip. May try it out once to say I did it but I already have the tumbler. I did notice tonight that some brass that was not sized prior to cleaning was more prone to having media lodged inside. A quick shot from the air compressor fixed that though. Using crushed walnuts.

So I'm off and to the races reloading... Finally. However in my quest to over complicate my life I ran into another stumbling block I need expert advice with. What should I trust when measuring the powder per load? CC or weight? For my needs and according to my Modern Reloading book my .40 S&W cartridge should take 5.6 grains or .46CC staring load not to exceed 5.9 grains. When I check the printed material for the volume of my powder (Hodgen TiteGroup) I find a volume measure of 0.0847. Doing the math of 5.6 x 0.0847 results in 0.0457 or 0.46CC as stated in my load information. I've been extremely careful in setting up my Lee Perfect Measure tool to .46CC but when I put it on my Lee scale it only reads about 4.7 grains and not the expected 5.6 grains. This may explain why my first 10-20 rounds I did oh so long ago seemed so weak. But I'm not sure which measurement to trust. The scale is affected by weather and humidity albeit a very slight amount. But it should be more accurate than this. So do I trust the scale and increase the CC? Or do I trust the CC and just agree my scale is off right now. There should be no damage to the scale as this is only the second use it has ever seen. Or do I do one additional step of measuring out 5CC of powder, put it on the scale and adjust the volume per grain accordingly which would be greater than 0.0847. Or am I way over thinking and analyzing this process? My key focus here is safety while enjoying the lessons learned. I apologize if these are bothersome, amateur questions but I'd rather ask then see you at a gun show next time and only wave with 3 fingers and a half a thumb. Additionally I hope this post looks ok. Typing it up on the iPad since the wife has gone to bed in disgust of me staying up late and shut off our laptop. Didn't want to wait to post the question. Thanks for any guidance you can provide someone starting out in this endeavor.

I understand what you're saying. I've just read numerous times in books and the manual that setting the sizing die too low can cause damage to the pin should it come in contact with anything. Of course it is pushing right through the brass as expected. I'm just being overly (maybe too overly) cautious with the press and the reload process and therefore may be using terminology or turn of phrases incorrectly. I'll loosen up once I understand every facet and detail of what it is I am doing and why I am doing it. For now I'm taking it step by step per the instructions as to not cause undue harm to myself or others around me when firing this ammunition. Thanks for your feedback. It has proven helpful in my search for knowledge and understanding.

Thanks a ton for the feedback Jonnin and Dolomite. I now feel better about moving forward in reloading with the variances I'm seeing. I'm not shooting necessarily for perfection of the cartridge but for safety overall as I go throughout the process. It has been impressed on me numerous times by individuals that if you choose to reload then great - just be mindful and careful and don't get in a rush. @Dolomite - I was referring to setting my die for depriming and sizing to a deeper depth thinking that may extend the length of the case. Of course, it now seems that this theory was well misplaced. I have reset the depth of the sizing die back to specifications as to not damage the deprime pin. And thanks for the tip on the tumble process. I have not been tumbling prior to sizing but will be reinspecting my last set of brass I did and will be following your suggestion going forward. It will take a bit more time but is sound logic and makes good sense.

I'm new to reloading. I did some about 1 1/2 years ago but only pressed out about 10-20 rounds. Now I've cleaned out my collection of brass and have about 650 rounds ready to reload. Right now I'm working on reloading some .40 S&W brass. This is all one-shot brass from varying manufactures but the largest bulk of it coming from Remington. In my Modern Reloading (Second Edition) book by Richard Lee it shows a proper length from head to neck being .850". After running the cases through a full size die and putting my micrometer on the brass I'm coming up short at .844"-.846", so I'm about .004"-.006". Is this an acceptable variance in the length of the brass? I understand it will increase the pressure on the brass so I'm being cautious as I enjoy the use of all my digits. I've tried adjusting the full size primer to allow for a deeper set against the brass but there seems to be no change. Any assistance or words or wisdom would be appreciated. Additionally, right now I'm moving forward with depriming/resizing prior to putting this brass into a tumbler with my walnut. Am I doing these steps backwards? I had imagined that depriming and then cleaning would allow me to keep from having to clean out the primer pocket afterwards if a case wasn't too dirty. Am I incorrect in this assumption? Sorry to put two questions so unrelated together but I didn't want to create a bunch of new threads.

I just recently noticed a store on 4th Ave on my way to work every morning called A-H Reloading and Ammo. Home Page I have yet to stop in and take a look around but plan to soon enough.

Yee-haw.

Give 'em hell Jackson. Well chosen words for his speech.

Thanks for the info folks! A friend just spoke with Charlie. We'll try to get down there sometime soon.

I heard that the Club was looking for a new range. I filled out the app once to become a member but didn't send off because they didn't have a range listed on their documentation. Do you know if this range is actually still operational and if so who I would/could contact to inquire about membering up and going out there tonight?

Hey guys, do you know where a man can shoot a rifle - Russian SKS 7.62x39 - for fun? Oh - and trying to go shooting tonight - Thursday. Thought all along I 'd go off to Stones River but didn't realize until about 90 seconds ago that facility is only open on Friday-Sunday. That's what I get for not checking into things appropriate. It would probably also explain why I've gone to Guns and Leather at 8pm twice on Wednesday now even though I know they close at 7pm. AGH! Just looking to shoot off some rounds and get rid of the shooting fever. Thanks for any help in advance!

I especially like that idea... <<<< See avatar

Thanks for the information Leroy! Much appreciated. Now that you mention it I did destroy the first case I tried to seat a bullet into. It was completely demolished and I wasn't quite sure exactly what took place. I thought maybe I didn't have the brass positioned correctly in the holder when I drove the ram home. Other than that one the other bullets seated smoothly and are nice and snug. I did seat the first one a bit low in my attempt to get it right the first time until a friend who was reloading with me pointed out that we should seat real loose and then continue to adjust the press as needed to get the correct seating. "Eugene you genius," I exclaimed quietly in my mind. Thanks again for the response, though. I don't quite have the inclination to go out and buy brass at the moment until I get through using up all of my factory loads and reloading those.

Ok guys - I'm totally new to the reloading scene. I just picked up a Lee 50th Anniversary kit last week at the fairgrounds. I've been reading books on reloading now for almost a month or so and I still have questions. In my first round of reloading I used ~20 rounds of spent .40 S&W Remmington brass. The entire process took me about 3 hours since it was my first time and I had to setup everything up on my work bench. Also just pointing out the fact that I was reading the instructions 2-3 times for each step before I tried anything. Everything sized perfectly and I was sure to use a digital micrometer I had lying around, don't ask - it's for another project, and made sure that everything was to specifications with my reloading information on this size cartridge. I haven't shot the rounds I made yet but I'm sure they'll all go bang. The question is when should I concern myself with the included chamfer tool included in the kit as well as the lock stud for tirmming the case? I guess in all my reading I really am not clear on the purpose of the tool. Sorry if this is a question that's been answered before or in great length. I just want to know with 100% certainity that what I'm doing is correct and safe. It's not worth saving a few pennies a round if I don't have full sight, hearing and both hands still intact at the end of the day.

Hey everyone. The family and I will be making a long road trip from Nashville to New Hampshire with a stop off in PA along the way to rest. So far I've checked that both states have a reciprocity agreement with TN in regards to HCPs. What I can't figure out is the details of the reciprocity agreement with NH. I'm no lawyer and the agreement as written is somewhat confusing. This being my first large road trip with my HCP I want to ensure that I keep my nose EXTREMELY clean and fun while ensuring safety of the wife and little one. Does anyone have any details or recently visited NH to know the ins and outs there? Best I can determine you cannot carry concealed there unless you have a NH state issued HCP. Thanks for any help or suggestions you may have. Pistol and Revolver Licensing, Permits and Licensing, Support Services - Division of State Police, NH DOS

Awesome questions Parrothead. I've had the same question on my mind for some time now and have wondered along those same lines you have. For now I carry. The owners of the company know but don't really seem bothered by the thought at all as our company, employees that is, have recently taken a strong pro-gun stance with one exception. And as long as we are careful not to "offend" that one exception then all is well. Political correctness sucks it but I'll do what I have to do to ensure that as I drive through the band lands of Nashville I'm protected.

Well - I may try to wait on receiving my HCP before I get it completely revoked.