Gnarlytoes

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First, there is no registration requirement for firearms in TN. The executor may legally transfer any non NFA firearms to the named beneficiary without going through an ffl, as long as all state laws for both states are followed. In TN there is no state law requiring transfer through an ffl. As long as there is no state law in MN requiring it, you can just drive up and bring them back or ship them home to yourself. The fact that they are currently in a trust may or may not complicate matters. It may be best to consult an attorney concerning disposal of trust assets. ETA: Are you inheriting them or just taking possession in order to sell them? Because the latter would pretty much negate my above response. ETA 2: Are you and/or your wife a trustee or named beneficiary of the trust which owns the guns? If so, which?

I did gunbroker searches for recent completed auctions with bids (actually sold, not stupid asking prices). I just averaged prices in my head to get a range. A couple I had to just guess at because of no examples to compare. These are retail prices on a popular nationwide website with collectors looking, so you may or may not be able to get as much locally. There may be details and markings I missed in the pics that could add or detract from values. Also, remove the Finn and Russian Mosin Nagants from stocks and check the date stamped under the receiver tang. An1898 or earlier date stamp, regardless of date stamped on top of barrel, means it is considered an antique and not a modern firearm. It can legally be shipped to individuals without going through an FFL unless state law prohibits it (TN does not). This usually adds 20% or more to value. Polish p64 $300 - 400 Bulgarian Makarov $500 - 700 Czech CZ52 $350 - 500 Finn Sako m39 $600 - 900 Mosin Nagant 91/30 in m39 stock ?? Best guess, $300 or so as it is. I think you would be best off to sell the m39 stock and 91/30 action separateIy. I believe the m39 stock complete with handguard and hardware would bring around $300 and the action should bring $150 - 200, possibly more if you part it out on ebay. Polish m44 $500 - 700 French MAS 36 $700 - 900 Enfield No5 Mk1 missing parts ?? Best guess $100. Take whatever is offered. Swiss K31 with scope $600 - 800 if clamp on mount and no finish or metal damage and no holes drilled. Argentine 1891 carbine $500 - 700 Mosin Nagant 91/59 $400 - 500 Enfield No4 Mk1 $500 - 700 Swiss K31 $600 - 800 Spanish FR8 $600 - 800 FN Belgian 1889 Sporter ?? Best guess $300 - 400 Eddystone 1917 $600 - 1000

I'm sure there some specialty ammo places that have loads intended specifically for bolt guns, but I'm poor so I always just rolled my own. Loading allows you to tailor the round to your specific gun. It is possible to get them "Hollywood" quiet. My loads I shoot in my Savage are quieter than most pellet rifles. You hear the firing pin strike, a small whoosh, and then the bullet impact. When the light is right, I can sometimes actually see the bullet flying down range through the scope.

I have multiples of both Geiselle and LaRue triggers. There is no denying the Geiselle is a slightly better trigger, but most people would not be able to tell the difference. The price difference means I will buy the LaRue triggers from now on.

Usually, sub-sonic ammo that will function a semi-auto will be super-sonic from a bolt gun. Sub-sonic 300 blackout for a bolt gun is generally loaded with smaller charges of faster powders versus loading subs for a semi-auto such as an AR. Usually magnum pistol powder instead of fast burning rifle powder. Just like loading pistol rounds, it would be very easy to get a double charge and not realize it. Also, some powders are much more position sensitive than others at low case volume. If you are sure the previous round was not a squib, then I bet one of these options was the case.

You really need to research what they all are and current values. Some of those old mil-surps that were dirt cheap 15 - 20 years ago are bringing very good money now. Some that are still common and inexpensive can bring premium prices with certain markings. You are only going to get .50/1.00 or less selling as a package deal. Way less if the dealer realizes you don't know much about what they are their values. If I were closer, I wouldn't mind helping you identify and value them. I had a C&R up until about 8 years ago. I realize that my children and their spouses really have no interest in most of my old mil-surps. Recently I've been selling a few. Problem is there is not much of a collector market locally. I've sold most of the lesser value ones. What I have left are going to need to go to gunbroker or some other large market to realize their value.

You will get really tired before you hurt the bluing. It's how the blue was originally polished. Just make sure you get 0000 steel wool.

Use very fine 0000 steel wool and oil on the rust spots.

It's decent ammo. Not match quality, but fine for plinking or practice. I bought a couple of cases of it a while back and have shot about 400 rounds through Glock 17, 43, 48, and a Kimber 1911 with zero issues. The author complains about velocity being less than 100 fps lower than stated, but then admits to using a barrel 1/2 the length of the test barrel. As for the blooper round, that is all on the manufacturer, but I have gotten defective rounds from other manufacturers before. Had a couple squibs with both WWB and UMC. A few years ago I sent back a case of Speer Lawman because nearly every box had 2 to 5 rounds with the primer seated backwards.

Holy crap, dude, that is cheap for a gill gun in functional condition!