Snaveba

I need to go to an LA meeting. I just threw a bid out on a live auction and won a Marlin 375 Win for a great price including the buyers premium. Not sure if I need two in 375 Win.

Of course I need to post this one. 1972 Marlin 1895, B0-00003XX serial number. 45-70 (of course)

So here is this rifle now. I did cold blue the steel, refinished the stock, found a forend to refinish, cut the barrel down to 16.5”, hand cut the dovetail for the mag tube pin. The stripped receiver and barrel went to Class3Machining in Texas for threading. Only took 2weeks. (The can is still in jail)

Until I get obsessed with something else. Maybe that is my consistency, I’m always obsessed with something.

If I had 3k to spend on a 1911, I would get a Tisas and 2-3 lever guns

We officially have 7 3/4” at my house in Nashville.

Same in the Lipscomb area

Much less finding a working VCR

had to do it

Man, I do like me some old berettas. PM sent

I have two more to submit here in the next week or or so.

Certified my new suppressor today and my Form 4 is officially submitted. Let’s see how long this takes.

Wow. Beautiful. GLWS

I’m looking specifically for a Marlin 336 (RC, C, T, or A) chambered in .30-30 manufactured in 1979. It a project for a buddy(his birth year). Condition doesn’t need to be perfect (especially the wood) as I will be refurbishing it.

I was using the synonym

Wasn’t this the weapon of choice by Mr. Lee Harvey Oswald?

Welcome to the group

SPF

So I have more to add (the 45-70, but I’m doing a little work on it) but here is my newest project. Marlin 1893 chambered in 38-55 circa 1900. It’s only a barreled action. So she will need a bit of work. I have a stock and forend on the way (although they are for a carbine) which need finishing as well.

(and 7th).

I bought two on the last day of 2023, hoping it would last me a bit. I made it to Jan 6. LOL.

PM sent

Saturday bump - make an offer

The “Winchester Stock Oil” I use is a product a restorer sells on eBay. It is boiled linseed oil and some tint. Supposedly very close ti what Winchester originally used. I cut it 2-1 with mineral spirits. The Watco Danish Oil I use straight from the can. It has worked really well on a lot of stocks. I use the natural color but they have tinted.

It really depends upon the situation. I have developed a process the last couple years. I always start with rubbing the wood down with denatured alcohol. This will get off any grime and kind of let me know what I’m dealing with. Often, someone has added a poly type finish at some point in the life of the rifle. This comes off best with denatured alcohol either scrubbing it with 0000 steel wool, or a combination of steel wool and scraping with a thin plastic scraper (if the finish is really thick). I will also use a wipe/scrub with acetone if there is from water or oils, or if I want to get the wood back to a more neutral color. I avoid using sand paper if I can. I don’t like to remove wood. However, I have on a couple rifles (this one included) sanded a fair bit. The Model 12 stock was really wavy and coarse feeling so it got more sanding. 220-400-800-1000 grit. When sanding, you really have to be careful not to sand the edges where the tang and the butt plate interface with the stock. It can be really easy to take off wood and then the metal is proud to the wood and it is pretty obvious the wood has been sanded too much. I then go back usually with several applications of Danish oil applied by hand and rubbed in. Sometimes I will start with an application or two of Winchester stock oil if I want a a reddish tone.