Snaveba

So, the slide moves back about 1/16 inch (1.5mm) before it contacts the disconnector. The disconnector needs to depress about 1/16 inch (1.5mm) before the trigger disconnects from actuating the sear. Finally, the distance along the slide (the ~45 deg. sloped portion of the notch) from where the slide contacts the disconnector and the disconnector is depressed the maximum (3/32 inch) it will be depressed is 3/32 inch.

About a mm of travel back before the slide contacts the disconnector.

I was wondering about re-shaping the leading edge of the disconnector, specifically the right side (as you look at it) since this is the edge that the slide contacts when racking. Making the angle more shallow may make it easier. The biggest issue here may be that changing the dimensions of disconnector may effect when it engages or disengaged the trigger. The spring that controls the up/down tension on the disconnector is also part of the trigger return.

Re-reading my original post, it might come across that I wanted to remove the disconnector. I probably should not post at 0130 when I’m tired.

Makes sense. I was not advocating removing the disconnector, just more of a question I was pondering. Safety features are there for a reason. . I just want the disconnector on the my Sig to interfere less with the action of racking the pistol.

Well, it is my understanding that the reason for the disconnector is to prevent the trigger from releasing the firing pin before the slide is fully seated. If you push the side back far enough (putting it in an out of battery condition) the trigger will not engage the sear. My question is how often does this really happen such that you might try to fire the pistol with the slide not seated. And secondly, if the slide was not seated, would the pin still be able to strike the primer correctly. I am basically questioning the real life need for the disconnector.

If I have to I will. Unfortunately I am the second owner so I don’t have the warranty.

I think, but am not certain, that the disconnector in an striker fired pistol works differently than in a hammer fired pistol.

I did find a post on a Sig site where they were told to let the disconnector “break in”. I have asked Sig as well and described my observations (including the ease of racking with the disconnector removed) to them. I will post their response.

I love my P365XL. The only issue I have, and I have seen this discussed other places, is the difficulty there can be when racking the slide. Specifically getting the slide to start moving back. It is not terrible, but not as easy as my M&Ps. Any other P365XL (or P365) owners have this issue? I have watched a couple YouTube vids where they have complained about this then shot several hundred rounds to try and “loosen it up”. (An example) After trouble shooting mine, I have determined the “why”. It is the disconnector making the slide hard to rack. This is spring loaded and when depressed by the slide, disconnects the trigger from the sear. When the slide is at battery, the disconnector sits in this notch on the slide allowing the trigger to connect with the seat. When the slide moves back, the disconnector is depressed as it exits the notch, disconnecting the trigger from the sear. I have determined that between the poor angles either side of the notch, the angles of either side of the disconnector, and well and some possible binding in the mechanism, this makes racking the slide difficult as it tries to depress the disconnector. I tested my theory by removing the disconnector. Without it in place, the pistol racks like butter. My two questions for the wisdom of the TGO are: 1- is the disconnector really that important? I don’t see many situations where I might pull the trigger when the slide is not at battery, but is close enough that the firing pin could strike the primer with enough force to ignite. 2- Apart from removing the disconnector, what do you think I could do to make the parts work together more smoothly?

I’m trying to rebuild the engine in my truck. How do you guys recommend. I use for my block machining. Also, while I am thinking about it, can you recommend a good lawn care service? Thanks

Safe and a sound. Prayers to those affected.

Probably Nashville. Everyone seems to be moving here.

Picked this up in the beginning of February. M&P 9 2.0 Compact with 4 15-round Mags. Very nice to shoot. Now I’m waiting for my tritium sights to arrive.

Welcome to The Great State of Tennessee,and welcome to the TGO

I don’t have nearly the knowledge base of some of the members here, but the firearms you listed are all legal to own in TN. TN does not have a firearm registration requirement. As long as you legally own the firearms, there should not be any issue moving to TN with them. Fellow TGO members, please correct me if I am wrong.

Appaloosa

Back when you could have a toy gun w/o a red plastic piece on the end of the barrel.

I think I might have had one of these as a kid. You pulled the trigger and it spun something inside the toy which made the sound of rapid automatic fire. The faster you pulled the trigger the more it “fired”

I was looking at those as well. Unfortunately they are about $430. A little out of my budget at the moment

Now if anyone would just get the Romeo Zero in stock. Optics Planet keeps pushing my ship date one day, every day. Grrrrrr.

Please don’t post pictures of that.

“69” Dude

“The greatest teacher, failure is”, Yoda Don’t be afraid to fail.

Ditto