I40Bandit

Fox or 'yote....I would guess 'yote. Mostly I only catch a single distant shot or two in a 5 shot burst. They don't hang around the cams for long. In the last year I have personally seen trail cam of a big cougar in Perry County, NW of Lobelville, and heard 2 other sighting reports through associates. Another in Perry and one in Humphreys.

Probably. I'm not going to sweat it and just touch them with a paint pen.

Stealership is probably your best bet. They may be able to cut & code a key based on the VIN. Otherwise I think a locksmith will have to key it to the lock(s), which could be quite a bit of work.

Agreed. Seems like a lot of questionable/poor decisions happening in the corrections departments lately.

Installed the rest of the fascia boards and secured the top to the under laying OSB top today. Also drilled the first set of mount holes. Boy, it is exceedingly difficult, if not impossible to drill taper holes in Melamine and not chip it. I tried the tricks I knew, ultimately resigning to the fact that I would just white paint the chips to blend them out. Love these cast tee nuts that mount with 3 screws... I have to work on the 'bridging' of PETG material on my printer. PLA bridges much better. For those not understanding, the top side of the knob cap printed down against the print bed. It built up a few layers making the outline of the helmet and rest of the knob, then bridged across it (across open air, no support). Marginal bridging is why there are a wavy lines that are not fused well. Still a usable knob though. ~Bandit

Captured https://www.foxnews.com/us/tennessee-inmate-curtis-watson-captured-after-5-days-on-run-officials-say

Even if he shaves his beard, wears sleeves and a ball cap, he still can't do much about the nostril asymmetry and ears close pinned to his head. LEO's were searching south of me on Hwy 412 between Parsons and Hohenwald last night.

A little progress has been made on this project. I've been side tracked in the shop doing other things. The melamine top has been cut. Not yet secured... Also, I'm sure you can't miss the Dillon mount has been built. Doweled, glued and screwed. Quite strong. I still need to clear lacquer it. Also still need to finish the rock chucker mount. I have all the pieces cut already. I had some tongue and groove hardwood boards left over from previous owners (no idea where they used them, but not in the house). So I cut the tongue off, leaving the bevel, then stained and lacquer cleared one. Came out better than I need or deserve, so I am proceeding with making the rest of the fascia cap boards. They are not the finest specimen boards, and I could have sanded the first one better, but oh well. Good enough. I might remove the first one and put it on the back side of the bench...I think the second one will be a bit nicer. The one sitting on top just got stained today and is drying before the lacquer clear coats are applied. I also procured the hardware to mount the press mounts to the table top. I 3D printed some hand wheel knobs for the 3/8" bolts... ~Bandit

True, there are options/incompatibility you have to be careful about. Gen 1/2 DPMS, thin/thick tang (low/high rail) and even extra high rail, true AR Armalite vs. DPMS pattern. Majority of the build your own stuff is DPMS Gen 1 LR-308....then I would say Armalite AR-10 (try not to conflate the LR's and AR's...though even sellers will mislabel)...then if you search hard you'll find DPMS Gen2 stuff. Fully understandable that it can be daunting. It was at first for me too. The parts I posted above will all work together.

Might not be your thing to build your own, but I'll just throw this out there. A 308 upper is comparable in cost. The spare $520 would get you a good optic and even a drop in trigger. Of course the lower needs to be finish milled, but you could sell it (unfinished of course, value is about $75 retail) and buy a finished one. My 'cheap' 308 build groups better than my factory DPMS, though the DPMS has a more milspec like FCG while the other has a 3lbs single stage drop in. My build has a pretty cheap bear creek stainless 18". If brand names make you feel comfortable, I understand. Just an option. Discount via save5now code. Shipping free.

You're thinking of their hearts.

Have to back E4 No More here. What we perceive as color is reflected light from the object, visible wavelengths that the object does not absorb. Otherwise the surface would show no texture, no features what so ever. The only true black to my knowledge is a Black Hole, so science got the 'black' part right. https://education.seattlepi.com/not-list-black-white-colors-physics-3426.html I think the finishing/coating problem will become a thing of the past as polymer, carbon fiber and other materials make advances. Metals will be used less and less as these technologies continue to take over. Not saying I enjoy the idea, but that's the direction we are already heading.

Sure thing @TomInMN . I don't do importing or exporting of other file types, so I cannot speak to how well it handles/translates any of these file types, except .STL and .SVG....sometimes .OBJ. @DaveTN There's your answer for exporting .STP, yes it will. I should have just looked. Like I just said above, I never import/export. Interesting note it will import a .STE STEP file, but will not export as such.

Yes, free for hobbyists. It will not export an .STP (EDIT: I was wrong, yes it will), but will import one. Screen grab below of the currently compatible files for import. In addition you can import an .SVG and use it in a design, like the spartan molon labe on my 3D printable AR mag speed loader available on Thingiverse.... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3551655 I really can't think of any limitations, at least not for the average hobbyist. My biggest gripe is it's partially cloud based, so you are forced every 10 days to let it connect. They tend to update A LOT, so managing data usage is part of using for me. I can export .STL files directly to my 3D printer host for slicing, or can use Autodesks Meshmixer software to do any mesh fixing and custom support making and also slice from it. It will create drawings from selected components. You can create tool paths and finished code for CNC/CAM. It will simulate motions based on joints you create/designate. It will simulate stress loads on parts and help you design a part that survives the intended use. If you are working with sheet metal there is a special sheet metal module that caters to the geometry involved. There's a T-spline module for some (somewhat) free form modelling....not anything like Blender, but still useful. You can model parametric, or turn it off. It's quite versatile. And free for hobbists. I don't use much else ATM.

Created in Autodesk Fusion 360 software. My go to anymore for mock ups like above and modelling 3D printable parts.