deerslayer

Why not? The shooter should focus on the top edge and sharp corners of the front sight when precision is required. Dots are there to more quickly draw the shooter’s attention to that front sight. Rear dots, outlines, etc are just a distraction. A solid orange front sight may benefit some if it is more visible and thus easier to focus on, but that is a completely different concept from white or fiber optic dots.

Anyone doing true target shooting needs neither dots nor outlines; they are better off with plain black front and rear sights. White dots, squares, etc on the front sight are not the proper aiming point; they merely speed up sight acquisition.

I recently bought a complete upper ($319) and complete lower ($219) from PSA and have been happy with it so far. Complete gun with the same upper/lower was over $600. Mine is the 8” version of Omega’s above.

Yep. I found that thread on brianenos where the guy got new mag springs, so I called Shield. Shield guy said Glock modified the 43X/48 frame twice. They call it 1.0, 1.1, and 2.0. Stouter mag springs are needed for early guns, which mine is. Two are on the way. He said they will start using the new springs in their mags. We’ll see what happens.

Hugh, Did you try them at all with the stock mag release? I got mine and they won’t lock the slide back. Pushing on the base of the mag while pulling the slide back will lock them. The mag catch notch looks a little higher than a stock mag, so the Shield mags are slightly lower when they seat. We’re talking maybe 1/16”. In all fairness, Shield says to use their mag release, but they don’t mention mags riding low. I had the same issue with a Ruger Mark IV and a Volquartsen mag release fixed it. Bonehead design by Ruger. I ordered a Shield mag release (probably should have already done that) and will wait until it comes before I shoot anything. I read somewhere where a guy had the same problem and Shield sent him new mags springs. I don’t want new mag springs—putting 15 in these is hard enough! Keeping my fingers crossed.

Thinning the herd by giving them to grandchildren who will use them has to be satisfying. I hope to be able to do the same thing someday.

Is he well on his way to being 6’4/245? If so, give him the .308. If he is smallish or looks like he’s gonna be, maybe give him the 7. Not that a .308 kicks that much, but there will be some difference between a 120/130/140 grain 7-08 and a 150/165/168 grain .308 (typical hunting bullet weights). I shot a 6.5 CM and a .308 back to back this weekend and was surprised at the difference in recoil ( both ~9 pound rifles). 7-08 ammo will be less common, but Midway stocks 31 different kinds. It’s not too hard to find.

I hear ya on wanting to see in the case. I just trust the powder measure though (at least a Dillon) and have never had issues. Uniquetek and Inline Fabrication make some neat aftermarket gadgets for Dillons. I think one of them makes a mirror that mounts to the press and lets you see right into the case. A friend bought a small mirror at Harbor Freight and made a similar setup. Also, Double Alpha makes a new $20ish click adjustment dial for the powder measure that is super simple and works like a champ. Having a separate powder measure/toolhead for each caliber is definitely more convenient.

Got a ship notification email today. USPS First Class from MT. Hopefully, I can try them this weekend. Hugh, thanks for the heads up on the pre-order!

A four year old 1984 Ranger with only 68k miles, BUT it was a hard 68k miles. It served as my neighbor's first work truck in their newly formed HVAC company and they were the type to change the oil every 10k whether it needed it or not (and this was before synthetic was common). Gave $1000 for it. 2.0 4 cylinder with a one barrel carb and a 4 speed made 71 hp. When I got it that was maybe 51 hp. Had to change the third spark plug every three months due to using oil. I was always nervous around auto inspection smog test time, but it usually passed. Replaced some front end parts and the bias ply tires and it was like a new vehicle. It was a beater, but I was very thankful for it.

A caliber change on a Dillon 550 takes about five minutes if you buy an extra toolhead and powder measure (about $115 in parts). Maybe 40 seconds if the case rim is the same diameter. I can load 100 rounds in eight minutes on mine. I agree on the UN ammo ban joke--one of the three reasons I reload is because ammo is available whenever I want it. If there is a sudden rush on ammo or Academy is out of my favorite load the night before a big match, none of it affects me. The other two reasons are cost (yes, you can save quite a bit even loading 9mm) and the custom-tailoring aspect.

Sweet! Shield says four batches and they are about to ship their fourth batch. I'm thinking I should see something soon. I'll probably get their mag release, too. I think 15 rounds in these guns is a game changer.

This. I’ve witnessed the exact same thing a couple times. If I can’t depend on it to punch a hole in a thin piece of stamped pot metal that I can snap in two with my fingers...

Sounds like a good time to buy SIG stock.

I have a friend who converted one to 9mm. I believe he swapped barrels and magazines and tuned the extractor. He may have replaced the extractor. i think .38 Super initially had a bad reputation for accuracy due to headspacing off its rim instead of the case mouth. The .38 Super loaded to “major” power factor (bullet weight x velocity = at least 165,000) is popular in USPSA/IPSC Open division, but is losing ground to the 9mm. Rules were changed years ago to allow shooting major with 9mm. Yes, it can easily be done, but is a specialized load in a specialized gun (same as loading .38 Super major). Most off-the-shelf .38 Super won’t make major. The 9mm has the advantage of easily obtained brass. You can always identify .38 Super shooters at a match—they are the ones looking at the ground immediately after shooting a stage.

I have no doubt that manufacturing is better than ever, but nothing touches hand-fitted by an expert. I've seen too many big dollar 1911s that had to be fine tuned by a 'smith before they would run.

That's silly. You really believe one can't save $7.25 per hour of loading 9mm?

Now Iran doesn’t want to give up the black box for the Ukrainian plane that went down right after takeoff from Tehran, allegedly in flames. If the plane’s initially reported mechanical failure was SAM-related, I can’t blame them.

A $300 1911 can be as reliable and accurate as a $1000 1911. I personally don't like GI type guns because they usually have itty bitty sights and limited options for replacing them. Some would have you believe sights are a waste of time because you will always freak out and point shoot in a self defense situation. I don't adhere to this idea and want my sights set up a certain way.

Unless they want to own guns.

They can be handy in the range bag for a quick swipe during extended shooting (especially with a rimfire), but I think a rod and bore brush and patches do a much better job. There's nothing like getting clean white patches out the muzzle to know the barrel is clean.

I've had access to a few. If I had $3000 to invest in a 1911, I would look at Ed Brown or (more likely) I would buy a bunch of Caspian and Ed Brown parts and have a smith build it. I've never handled a Nighthawk and don't know much about them. I've seen enough out-of-the-box Wilsons take a dump in the middle of an IDPA match that I wouldn't risk buying one, although I have to admit, the EDC is highly interesting.

Magazines can eliminate some of the issues faced when running 9mm and .40 length cartridges in a .45 length action. Also, manufacturers are making 1911 style guns specifically for 9mm length rounds. The Springfield EMP series and the Wilson EDC are two examples. I have an EMP4 that is a fantastic shooter, is nice and flat, and only weighs 30 oz.

Agreed, but from my experience, the $2500 1911s don't do anything any of my $1000-1200 1911s wouldn't do.

Over the years, I have carried four different 1911s, all with the same Comp-tac CTAC IWB kydex holster. The only one I got tired of carrying was a 38 oz. steel frame gun. None had any significant wear from the kydex. All were $1000-ish guns (Springfield, STI, Colt). I wouldn't worry about wear and tear on a pricey gun as much as I would worry about what would happen to it if I had to use it. I wouldn't want it getting thrown around in a ziplock bag in an evidence room. Also, some police departments/Sheriff's offices may make you jump through hoops to get it back. I've heard of a few rightful owners never getting their guns back after a legitimate shooting or a theft.