TGO David

I can take a few pics of my 19 with the Vickers mag release and post them a little later this evening if you'd like. Here's a stock photo of them:

Now I know what a douchebag looks like.

No rain here today, but plenty of time spent mowing the yard in the heat of the day... dealing with a broken central A/C unit in our upstairs floor, and painting another bedroom in our house. But I did have a few Black & Tan myself just a while ago.

Yeowch... $38 is steep. My Vickers release was about $19 with shipping and even that can be called "high" unless you factor in the cost of offsetting the design, engineering and production cost of something that probably is only being run in the thousands of pieces rather than tens or hundreds of thousands. Anyway, glad you got your gun set up the way you like it! Shoot safe!

Regarding gas blocks per the earlier conversations... I have removed two in my life, both from Bushmasters. Both rifles had 500-1000 rounds through them at the time the blocks were removed. I used a hammer and appropriate sized punch to drift the pins out of the front sight base. A few gentle taps with the hammer were all that was required to loosen the FSB from the barrel and start it sliding forward. I suspect rifles with more rounds through them may be more difficult due to carbon build-up. That being said, a retired Marine I used to go to church with advised that briefly heating the FSB with a propane torch without applying flame directly to the FSB would loosen it more often than not. I never had to use that method but I can see where it would work and why it would work. I can also see why you wouldn't want to apply the flame directly to the FSB as you would likely mar the finish of the weapon. Your mileage may vary, but it wasn't hard for me to do at all.

1. It depends. If it is pinned or welded on, it can be removed but will require effort and possibly the work of a gunsmith. If it's just screwed onto the end of the bbl, then you just need a wrench and may need to give it a little persuasion. 2. Yes there is. Muzzle brake harnesses and redirects a portion of the escaping gasses to help control muzzle flip and tame recoil. A flash hider just controls the way the escaping gasses disperse and burn, reducing the muzzle flash. On a fighting rifle, I'd prefer a flash hider especially if you may ever have to use it at night or indoors. On a target rifle, I'd probably go with the brake. You can find muzzle accessories that do both to a degree.

Oh, there's still time for that to happen. Glad to hear you got it sorted out. There's nothing worse than having the wrong parts (or be missing a part) when you start putting things together.

OnTarget is just off of I-24 in Murfreesboro. It's about 30-40 minutes out of Nashville.

My wife and I both jumped.

Welcome, Mark. Hope you enjoy your visits with us.

McCain: He's not Obama Obama: Sooner or later, everyone dies.

Nice!

I took the 9L out to the local indoor shooting range last night and ran about 100 rounds through it again. Had one failure to eject (stovepipe) and discovered that the front sight is off to the left by about 1/16" to 1/8". This is causing hits to strike to the right of POA. How far to the right of course depends on how far away the target is from the shooting position. I'll drift the front sight closer to the center position this weekend with a nylon punch. Sights will eventually be replaced with Ameriglo / Bowie Tactical Concepts night sights. Also decided to run with the LARGE grip back strap as it more closely mimics the handfull of firearm that I get from my Glock 19. Some may think that's a step backward but it actually helps me so go piss up a burning rope. I need to take and post some new photos as I've made a rather subtle but cool change to the appearance of the firearm by using OEM Smith & Wesson grip inserts in Flat Dark Earth color.

Upon further reflection, I'd just make sure that I took my legally armed wife with me everywhere we went.

It's so hard to type while walking... *** Posted Wireless via my Blackberry *** ;)

As I said earlier, that's how I'd do it. If you choose to do it differently that's between you and the other party and is totally your prerogative. For what it's worth, I think society's values have plummeted significantly since "before there was an Internet". I don't trust people near as much now as I did back then.

Guys, if I slip out of work today unattended... I'll be at Hooters coloring with the waitresses also.

Thanks, JWP. I have edited the sticky in this forum to reflect more accurate information. Everyone... make sure you're doing private transactions the right way! As I have stated countless times, the burden of doing so rests squarely on you as the buyer or seller. If you do it wrong, you are looking at harsh penalties up to and including prison time.

Wow... that's a good read. Thanks for posting it!

PS: I wouldn't be doing my job as a moderator if I didn't remind everyone that Rule #3 in our Code of Conduct states that we need to avoid discussing illegal activities including the act of circumventing laws. Gun owners are much maligned by the media as is. The last thing we need to do is discuss how we would thumb our nose at the law and carry despite having that right removed from us by the State. As silly as it may sound that rights can be revoked.

I hope I'm never forced to make a decision like that. I guess ultimately I'd petition relentlessly for restoration of my rights and/or move to a more gun-owner friendly state with laws similar to those of Kentucky.

If that's correct and the transaction would carry a $400 tax tag as a result, the obvious choice is to handle it privately as long as it's being done in-state and in full accordance with the law. Honestly... as long as people realize that TGO isn't in the business of selling guns, accessories or dispensing legal advice and that the burden of consequences rests squarely on the people involved in any and all transactions, I really don't care how they choose to transfer a firearm privately. I know how I'd do it, but that's just me. I like to be safe. Some people -- and I do not mean to imply that it's any of us in this thread, just stating a fact in general -- apparently find it's more important to them to thumb their nose at "The Man" and get by with as little paperwork and paper trail as possible. That's their prerogative and I might send them a postcard if it lands them in jail. Again, this is a whole different ball game with the BATFE than just me selling Jim-Bob a Glock that I don't want anymore. If Jim-Bob doesn't get the tax stamp, then Jim-Bob technically cannot even possess the item in question. And what risk does that put me in with the police and BATFE if I sell a Class III item to Jim-Bob without confirming that he has met the legal requirements to own it? BIG gray area. And gray areas involving the BATFE are areas I'd prefer to avoid from a personal standpoint.

My understanding of the requirement may be incorrect. If I am, I will amend the stickied post in this forum. That being said, and if it's not a requirement... the only way that I personally would be willing to sell a Class III item to another person privately would be for that person to pay me 100% of the sale price up front, apply for their tax stamp, then show me their tax stamp assigned to the serial number of that item and then I would let them take possession of said item. I'm sure everyone will have their own opinion of what they would require as a seller, so this could end up being another discussion similar to the ones we've had here about the suggested form to use when privately transferring ownership of non-regulated firearms. Everyone just needs to be warned that the Fed doesn't mess around with Class III stuff. This isn't like selling grandpa's old 12 gauge shotgun to the nice guy you just met in the parking lot of Wal-Mart. There are serious penalties for doing it the wrong way.

You must like all of your sports competitions ending in ties. That way no one team goes home feeling like they lost, right? Leftism at it's finest right there.

Looks like mine.