TGO David

Brian, you will find a better signal to noise ratio in the posts over on M4Carbine.net in their "Other Rifles" forum. http://m4carbine.net/forumdisplay.php?f=7 Arfcom used to be good back in the day but it's grown past the point that the moderators are able to effectively police. If you want to read a dozen threads about what baclava looks most tactical with your Wiley-X tactical sunglasses, Arfcom's the place. If you want to read stuff with more professional content, try M4C.

They are some of the best. Installing them requires either the use of a DPMS Panther Claw delrin action block or modifications to the generic clamshell style upper receiver blocks used to clamp the upper in your vise. I have both, but the DPMS block is a better option. Most specialty shops will install the rail for free onto your upper as long as you buy the rail from them and ship your upper to them.

I helped a friend use some stuff that he ordered off of the Internet a few years ago. It was similar to the poly-resin that they sell at the home improvement warehouses but probably a little better. I'll see if I can get him to email me the details. We had to acid wash the concrete several times since his garage had already seen traffic, but I do remember that the instructions recommended doing the same at least once to new construction even. The prep work was essential for getting a good bond to the concrete. I'd avoid using the stuff with grit in it for traction unless you just put it in a few places where foot traffic is likely. It's not near as easy to mop up oil and other spills when you have the grit additive in the resin.

Flowers, cinnamon and puppies.

Smith and Wesson will sell you any part on their firearms as long as it's not a serial numbered part (i.e. receiver). If you want exactly what comes on the M&P 15T, call them up and order directly from them.

To answer your question, yes you can easily make your AR look like the S&W MP15T. All you will need are: Low profile gas block 11" quad rail forearm Flip front iron sight You can pretty much take your pick on the gas block. For the quad rail I would look at the Daniel Defense 11.0 "Omega Rail" as it's a super secure two-piece, free floating rail that requires no additional modification to the rifle and is extremely easy to install. I think S&W uses MI front sights but I may be mistaken. Again you can take your pick there. MI, Troy, ARMS, Yankee Hill, etc. Just whatever fits your budget and style.

Thanks for the kind words. I must admit that the growth of this site is due entirely to the hard work of our moderators and the wonderful folks who keep visiting and telling others about it. My part here is small in comparison.

Nice! How long did it take you to get your tax stamps back?

My wife called about hers yesterday and was told that the backlog right now is them waiting on people's HCP class certificates to be scanned and sent back to them. She was told to fax a copy of her certificate and they would go ahead and issue it. Did that yesterday; told today that they would issue it and be sending it to her in 7-10 days.

Mike, glad to hear you bought a SERPA. I recently picked up one for my G19 to use on the rare occasion that I'll open carry it (or at least OWB carry it) and for use at the range. They are great little holsters. And I haven't even shot myself in the leg once with my Glock.

I'm sure Joe could sell you a DMS-1 if you wanted to go that route. If I were running a 16" bbl on my rifle, I'd have a DMS-1 for it instead of an only 1x reflex sight. Hell, I may order one for my wife's (aka "our other") AR later. It'll have at least a 16" bbl and this would be perfect.

Yep. It should be their campaign poster.

Actually when it's dialed back to 1X it is the same as shooting with an Eotech or an Aimpoint.

Did you forget about the Millet DMS-1 or was it just not to your liking? If I was going to put a magnified optic on my rifle, that's exactly the one I'd be going for. And it's cheaper than the Eotech. http://www.millettsights.com/controller.php/catalog/tactical_dms 1x - 4x magnifaction by 40mm objective lens.

I had that forearm on my Bushmaster. It's a nice solid piece of hardware. I'm confused by your choice of the Eotech, however, since you originally stated that you were wanting more of a precision plinker. Reflex sights like the Eotech are better for closer range, faster shooting. Have you decided to go a different route with the rifle entirely?

I can take a few pics of my 19 with the Vickers mag release and post them a little later this evening if you'd like. Here's a stock photo of them:

Now I know what a douchebag looks like.

No rain here today, but plenty of time spent mowing the yard in the heat of the day... dealing with a broken central A/C unit in our upstairs floor, and painting another bedroom in our house. But I did have a few Black & Tan myself just a while ago.

Yeowch... $38 is steep. My Vickers release was about $19 with shipping and even that can be called "high" unless you factor in the cost of offsetting the design, engineering and production cost of something that probably is only being run in the thousands of pieces rather than tens or hundreds of thousands. Anyway, glad you got your gun set up the way you like it! Shoot safe!

Regarding gas blocks per the earlier conversations... I have removed two in my life, both from Bushmasters. Both rifles had 500-1000 rounds through them at the time the blocks were removed. I used a hammer and appropriate sized punch to drift the pins out of the front sight base. A few gentle taps with the hammer were all that was required to loosen the FSB from the barrel and start it sliding forward. I suspect rifles with more rounds through them may be more difficult due to carbon build-up. That being said, a retired Marine I used to go to church with advised that briefly heating the FSB with a propane torch without applying flame directly to the FSB would loosen it more often than not. I never had to use that method but I can see where it would work and why it would work. I can also see why you wouldn't want to apply the flame directly to the FSB as you would likely mar the finish of the weapon. Your mileage may vary, but it wasn't hard for me to do at all.

1. It depends. If it is pinned or welded on, it can be removed but will require effort and possibly the work of a gunsmith. If it's just screwed onto the end of the bbl, then you just need a wrench and may need to give it a little persuasion. 2. Yes there is. Muzzle brake harnesses and redirects a portion of the escaping gasses to help control muzzle flip and tame recoil. A flash hider just controls the way the escaping gasses disperse and burn, reducing the muzzle flash. On a fighting rifle, I'd prefer a flash hider especially if you may ever have to use it at night or indoors. On a target rifle, I'd probably go with the brake. You can find muzzle accessories that do both to a degree.

Oh, there's still time for that to happen. Glad to hear you got it sorted out. There's nothing worse than having the wrong parts (or be missing a part) when you start putting things together.

OnTarget is just off of I-24 in Murfreesboro. It's about 30-40 minutes out of Nashville.

My wife and I both jumped.

Welcome, Mark. Hope you enjoy your visits with us.