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Everything posted by TGO David
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Shadow Systems Corp just posted a video on social media that gave us all a few glances at what appear to be some new products heading our way. First was a trio of what appeared to be Glock 26/27 sized Sub-Compact models at the left end of the table. Nothing about the Glock 26/27 moves my needle, but what they showed next sure did. Unless my eyes deceive me, they pulled a play from the Parker Mountain Machine playbook (a-la their work with the Sig P320 Sub-Compact) and tossed those new subbie slides onto a full-size frame, paired with a custom length barrel and compensator which all results in a Glock 17 sized package. If that's the case... hold my wallet!
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My eyesight isn't what it used to be, but my concealment is better than ever.
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FOR SALE! This is a Tenicor MALUS AIWB holster made for a 1911 or 2011 with SureFire X300UA or x300UB weapon light. These are widely regarded as one of the best, most concealable AIWB holsters for the Staccato 2011 (and similar) and work with both the 1911 and 2011 platform from pretty much any manufacturer. Retention is achieved by the holster gripping the weapon light itself, rather than the firearm. The muzzle end is open to allow for a variety of slide lengths, compensators, threaded barrels, etc. Tenicor sells this for $119 plus S&H. You can read more about it here: MALUS SOL AIWB Holster for 2011/1911 - Tenicor This is set up for a right-handed shooter. (Manufacturer provided photo, above. Shown with Staccato 2011. Firearm not included.) (Manufacturer provided photo, above. Shown with Dan Wessson Specialist 1911. Firearm not included.) Terms of Sale: These sell for $119 new. I will sell this for $75 mailed to you via USPS in the Lower 48 states. $60 mailed to you in the CONUS If you're in AK or HI, you'll need to talk with me about postage. Payment needs to be PayPal.
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I'm in rural, southern Williamson County near Thompsons Station and Spring Hill. We got about 5-6" of the stuff again yesterday. I enjoy it, the kids love it, but I am ready for it to be gone. I just don't have the kind of outdoors gear anymore that enjoying this kind of weather really requires. Here are some pics in case you haven't seen enough of it yet. We have a Japanese Maple tree in front of our house. Last night after the temperatures began to plummet again and the snow began to turn to ice, I caught a few photos of the tree lit by some of the lights nearby. These pictures really don't do it justice. It was beautiful.
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I added a How-To that might help mobile device users. It is in the Trading Post FAQ area.
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IMPORTANT NOTE: The following screenshots were taken on January 16, 2022 using the Microsoft Edge browser on an iPhone. As time passes and the look and feel of both TGO and mobile web browsers change, these screenshots may not look exactly the same as what you see on your device, but the basics should remain the same. Please let me know if something is grossly out of date and I will update it. HOW TO USE THIS TUTORIAL: Just follow along by the numbers. I will add commentary before each photo, as needed. STEP BY STEP: 1. At the top right corner of a TGO forum page on a mobile device, you will see what IT folks call the "hamburger" icon. It is three horizontal lines stacked on top of each other and is commonly used to represent a Menu. Tap it. 2. Tapping the Menu icon will cause the main mobile menu to unfurl or display. There are a lot of other functions on the menu, but for the sake of this tutorial you want to click the option for "Classifieds" as shown in this next photo. 3, Once you tap the Classifeds option, the menu will change again to show you the options within the Classifieds context. There are several options here, but the arrow is pointing to the option to view New Classified Ads. Other options on this menu are: Classified Forums - This takes you straight to the list of all forums in the Trading Post area. New Classified Ads - This lists the new posts that you haven't read yet. My Classified Ads - This lists the threads that you started in the Trading Post forums. Buyer/Seller Feedback - This takes you to the main list of Buyer and Seller feedback. 4. Once you are at the listing of New Classified Ads, you can do a few more things to filter and sort the way the ads are shown to you. Near the top of the page, you will see a link for "Show Filters". 5. Once you click the Show Filters link, the menu will unfurl or display and you can modify various things. I recommend that you do not modify the "Show Me" option. It is set to show threads that were automatically tagged by the forum software as being Trading Post items. This is one way that we are able to hone the search to only show threads from the classifieds area. Once you have made your changes to the filter, click the "Hide Filters" link and the menu will roll-up again. Conclusion: Hopefully this helps you navigate the TGO Trading Post a little more easily and get the most out of it from a mobile device. Please let us know in the comments beliow if you have suggestions for improving this How-To.
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There is also a quicker way to see just the new classifieds posted in the Trading post. This is what it looks like from a computer/laptop and traditional web browser. Just click in the order shown. Yeah. You must have visited before I got that cleaned up. Sorry about that.
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No one else should have to do that the way it's running silently now. It's just locking all of the old threads and we'll let it catch up.
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Alright... I am letting the Auto-Lock feature run silently to catch up on the huge backlog of old posts. I've also deleted every post made by the @TGO Staff account today. That gets rid of a lot of the noise. Once the Auto-Lock gets the backlog processed, I'll turn back on the feature that makes it reply to the thread saying when and why it was locked. Progress is hard.
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Yeah this is turning into a bit of a nightmare for anyone wanting to just catch up on new threads. I'm trying to fix it.
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Thanks! I appreciate it.
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Trying something new this morning with some automation to automatically lock threads. I am changing the configuration slightly, so what you see posted by the automation in a few threads isn't entirely accurate. It looks like the rules for this script are cumulative, meaning all conditions have to be true. The more conditions I add to the filter, the less likely it is to work properly. Right now, I have it set to auto-lock threads in the Trading Post forums if the author of the thread edits the first post in the thread and adds the tag "Ad Closed".
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Welcome! I don't use the mobile mode that often but I'll do so today and see what I can sort out on this. Most folks use the Prefixes feature to indicate whether their items are for sale, for trade, if they are wanting to buy something, etc. Prefixes are also automatically turned into "tags" by the software. So long as they do that, you can search by the prefix or tag and see what's available. We do ask people to edit their threads and mark the prefix as SOLD whenever they sell their items. Some folks do this. Others don't. It's kind of annoying when they don't. So long as people use the prefixes like they are supposed to, you can filter out the items that are sold. I've hesitated to implement a feature where threads get auto-deleted after a certain number of days, but maybe I need to take another look at it. Does 30-Days without a reply seem like a good number? Of course, that means that people will need to come back and re-post their items for sale after the 30-day period, if they want to keep the listing alive. But it would help keep the forum clean. I'm open to suggestions from all of the members on this subject.
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Update for January 12, 2022 FedEx delivered my M&P to Smith & Wesson this afternoon. For the sake of generosity, we should consider tomorrow, January 13th, as the first actual day of them having it in their possession. I am sure that the most that will happen within the next 24-hours is that it will be logged into their FFL books and entered into whatever computer systems they use for trouble-tickets. And then the wait will have officially begun.
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What is your criteria? How do you know that these reports aren't accurate?
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I heard some things about the 10mm having problems but didn't think to check on how the customers were being handled by Smith & Wesson as a result of it. I guess I should have thought further ahead than I did. In my meager defense, however, the last time I was a hardcore S&W fanboy was circa 2006-2010 or so and the few times that I had any need for help from their customer service department, they were insanely fast and good at it. I had those experiences in mind when I pulled the proverbial trigger again. I feel a bit silly for just assuming that things were the same now as they were then.
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Update... The M&P is on the way back to Smith & Wesson. They should receive it Wednesday. It will be interesting to see how long this process really takes and what the ultimate outcome with be. Until I have some other news to share, let the be a warning to anyone who is considering a new S&W of any sort. Maybe buy a Glock instead.
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I wonder if I ran the correct size tap (6-32) up through the hole from the bottom, would it turn the broken piece out of the channel, or would I butcher the threads? Twisting the tap clockwise from the bottom of the slide would rotate the piece counterclockwise if viewed from the top. In essence, unscrewing it. But that assumes that once the tap made contact with the piece lodged in the channel, it would bite into it and begin twisting it rather than just butting up against it like a jam-nut. Hmm.
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Nope. FFL transfer from the Internet. This is a through-hole but the portion of the screw that got lodged in there is significantly closer to the top of the slide than the bottom of the slide. There is no easy access to the screw from beneath, I guess is what I am trying to say. I wondered if freezing the slide might actually make it easier for that screw to come out. Heating it would seem to make the screw and the slide both expand slightly. Heat would be good if the screw was coated in threadlocker. I'm specifically asking Smith & Wesson NOT to drlll it out and tap it for a larger screw. That would make it incompatible with the commonly available optics mounting hardware. And yeah, lots of suckage.