res308

You, sir, are a-killin me. That .44 is a beauty! Lord willing, I'll get another .44 one day too. My one pre-lock Smith, the 686-1, is as smooth as I could ask for. But I haven't ruled out the Rugers. I really like the Wiley Clapp models especially, and I figure a 3" Wiley Clapp GP-100 and a Wiley Clapp SP-101 would make a nice brace. One gun on my "list" (you know, THAT list) happens to be a Ruger Security Six in 4" stainless. That would be nice paired with a Speed Six in 3". Not exactly the lightest of carry setups, but they'd sure be enjoyable. If you haven't noticed, I fully intend to obtain a pair of them. Another one I'm thinking about is the TALO edition 686 3-5-7 in 3 inch. Of course, one that's been on my dream gun list for a long time is the Smith 586 L-Comp. That one's getting pretty 'spensive for one wheel gun. One thing I like about the 640 Pro, aside from the looks, is the fact that it's cut for moon clips. Wouldn't mind having the big brother done that way too.

I know this same question in various forms has been asked many times. But, I'll ask it anyway. I carry the Glock 23 on duty, yes I'm stuck with .40 at work. I love my little FDE Glock 19. The 19 is my favorite model Glock and I can't picture myself ever being without one. Here lately I've been packing my Kimber TLE when I'm off duty. It's been a refreshing change. BUT, sometimes (well, all the time) I get the itch to carry a good old wheel gun. I haven't gone back to doing that (yet) since my only revolver nowadays is my Smith 686-1. Nothing will change the fact that, FOR ME, nothing will replace the .357 Magnum as my all-around favorite handgun caliber. I also just thoroughly enjoy shooting a wheel gun more than most anything else. I had seriously thought about getting a Dan Wesson Valor this coming year, but the more I thought about it, I got to looking at the fact that I could buy TWO very nice revolvers that I've always wanted and still have money left over. I find myself wanting to treat myself this coming year to a 686 with a 3" barrel, AND either an airweight in .357, or the 640 Pro. And I'd carry them both. I'll have to see how finances go. I'm not sure at this point if I'll have to sell the Kimber to make that happen. Don't really want to, but if I have to, so be it. Anybody else ever have this strong of an urge floating around that just WILL NOT go away?

Oh geez, I try to stay away from that place.

HzNot I have before. Appears I shall again. And I manage it concealed. This'll be of course after I make a sheath for it.

Friend of mine drove up, handed me this, said Merry Christmas, and drove off. All before I could even get a shot off. KA-BAR Dog's Head. Feels good and balances well. Might become my EDC.

It is. I can hang it upside down and shake it a little and it's still secure. I like it better than the ones I've really wet molded. It's snug and secure, yet the knife glides smoothly.

Here's the old skool sheath I made fer it.

I have redone the sheath a little and added a more proportional belt loop, and redid the strap. He said he would take $75 for the knife. I'll throw the sheath in for TGO members only for a grand total of jack diddly nuttin.

Shorter blade, handle is deer antler, cherry, and red oak, brass guard. Balances surprisingly well.

Here's one my buddy just finished up today. The scales are walnut, honey locust, and red oak. Somebody's already seen it and it's gone the way of a Christmas gift.

This is not a "for sale ad" but I've had a few questions from people about the axe/hawk. Just talked to my buddy who made this. This one here is one he made to his own specs and is for himself. He said that if someone wants one just like this with all the angles and detail it would cost $100 plus the cost of the hammer he made it from. And that is with the standard plain handle like in the first picture. If someone wants one without all this detail and a smooth sided head (same blade edge profile though)(in other words, without all the angles and file work) it will cost $80 plus the cost of the hammer. I'm going to do a leather hanger for this one when I can get to it, using the D-ring he's forged for it. I'll post pictures of that when I get it done, but I don't yet know how much cost that would add to the hawk if someone wanted that with it. I'll post some updates as soon as I can. Just let me know it you have any questions. Thanks. Rick

Yep. I've talked about that with him a little bit. I reckon you could have the blade or handle configured differently than what's here, or similar to what's here. Just call me Jim whenever you have any questions about it and I'll get you some answers. How'd the hog huntin' go?

This issue had gotten pushed aside for several days due to everything going on. This felt like what I like to call a "Homer Simpson moment" in that I had forgotten about the hand torsion spring. I could not see it while the trigger was in place, and I didn't think about it until I removed the trigger. Then, well, DOH! It's not broken. I put it back in place. Thing is, I don't see how or where it could have slipped off. I did action work on the last Smith I had, but not this one. I don't recall ever having the guts out of this one. But, who knows, it's been more than 5 minutes ago and I may have had the parts out and forgotten about it, so I'm not ruling out that possibility. That little spring is a royal pain to put back in place. All seems to be working correctly and I'll shoot it this afternoon to make sure. Thank you gentlemen.

Added a couple more pictures.

Good looking blade man! Well done.

Delivered this one Monday. He first wanted a friction sheath, then decided he also wanted a retention strap on it. Thought on it a while and decided to make a normal friction sheath and just bring the top slightly higher. Then I cut the slot almost even with the top. The vertical sides of the slot are cut at about a 45 deg angle from left to right. Now he can use it without the strap and the slot won't be noticed, or he can insert the strap inside the belt loop from the right hand side and up through the slot. This is the first one I've actually gotten paid for. He likes it so far.

This a pretty dog gone nice axe forged out by a friend of mine. Same one who made the bowie for his Dad. Forged out of a ball peen hammer. Hickory handle done with a draw knife. Said he finished it in antique bronze. I does look darker than what that third pic shows. He also burned the rope design into the handle. I thought that was a neat touch, and it adds a little grip. Soon as I can get to it I'm gonna make him a belt hanger and blade cover for it. I think the handle's about 18".

I was told he had a fit over it this past Sunday when he saw it.

Ok. I forgot a thing or two. I did mention that it had functioned well up to that point. But I forgot to mention that I had shot it first yesterday. I ran 6 rounds and handed it to my son, then he ran a couple rounds and it failed. So I think it occurred at that time. I know the hand rides inside the slot on the side plate, so I may have this wrong, but is the hand, when installed, supposed to be under light spring tension? That may be a stupid question, but I just can't remember.

Actually no. It doesn't snap back now that you mention it.

It does have the "M" modification. After trying to do some research, I'm starting to wonder if the "floating hand" on that model might be causing the problem. Seems they had a pretty high failure rate. I read that you drive out the pin on the trigger for the floating hand, and install a fixed hand. Then you'd have to fit it, and I don't remember right now how to do that.

Yessir I believe so.

686-1. It's cleaned and laid up for a pretty good while now. I have never had the first glitch out of this feller until today. My son and I took it out today. While shooting it we discovered that the cylinder it not rotating. My son was shooting when we first noticed. I was looking at the target and heard a couple rounds go off, then a couple of clicks. My first thought was "hard primer," until I turned around and looked at it and noticed that the cylinder was not rotating as it should be, as in not at all. You can try cocking the hammer, or try double action and the result is the same. The lockwork - hammer and trigger - function fine, but roundy thingy no turny. Apparently, it appears, the hand is not reaching out and engaging the cylinder to turn it. I removed the side plate (properly) and worked the action. Of course at this time the hand is not riding in the slot of the side plate, but I held light pressure with my thumb on the hand, and it engaged every time. But it won't engage with the plate on. By the way, the cylinder is not bound up in any way. You can pull the trigger back a little, or the hammer back a little, and it will rotate freely just as it always has. It's been a good while since I did any gunsmithing, and I'm a little rusty. I'm hoping it's something stupid that I'm just missing. What are your thoughts. What should I be looking for? ETA: By the way, the hand does appear to be in the same condition as it's always been, with the same profile. Doesn't appear to have anything broken off.