USMCJG

I prefer jacketed but I load and shoot both. I can get lead bullets for about half the price of jacketed. Plated bullets are another option. A little cheaper than jacketed, more expensive than lead, and safe for indoor ranges.

I would recommend the Lee Breech Lock Challenger Press Kit( Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit - MidwayUSA ), instead of the Anniversary kit for this reason. I much prefer a hand primer versus priming on the press. The non- anniversary kit is what I started with and it is a good buy to get you started. I have since replaced much of what came with it, but I still use some of the items and would make the same purchase again If I were starting over.As for other things you will need- Required: Reloading manual- I like the Lyman manual. Especially for a beginning reloader. Dies and shellholders- Lee die sets come with the appropriate shellholder, others don't. Carbide or titanium nitride sizing dies do away with the need for lube on straight walled pistol cartridges. Loading blocks(2)- I like the Hornady universal loading blocks, but pretty much any of them are fine. Calipers- You'll need these to measure case and cartridge overall lengths Extra bushings- Extra Breech Lock bushings for every die you will be using. Brass, bullets, powder, primers Optional: Case tumbler to clean up your brass before reloading. Bullet puller Case trimmer if you will be loading bottleneck cartridges. You can buy case length gauges and shellholders from Lee that work with the cutter and lock stud that come in the kit. Scale. The Lee kit comes with a scale that works fine for weighing powder charges and light bullets, but it only weighs up to 101gr.. If you want to be able to weigh heavier bullets or cases you will need a scale with more capacity. Case lube pad Chamfer/deburring tool. The Lee kit comes with a deburring tool that works but it is a little awkward to use. That's about all that I can think of at the moment. Once you get started with the basics, you'll start to get a clearer idea of what you'll want to add in the future.

I tend to agree with that sentiment. But I think that Obama and the current rulers, combined with the Bush administration, have done a great deal to educate the American people. Bush was unpopular and most people wanted a change of direction. They got exactly that. They finally had a chance to see that "change" is not necessarily a good thing. Even more bailouts, even more rampant government spending, even more backroom dealing, even more cronyism, and even more government control over peoples everyday lives. I have begun to be happy that Obama was elected. McCain would have been more of the same, a center-left moderate pretending to be a conservative. It seems that Obama has awakened the sleeping giant that is the American populace. People got a taste of "change". People got a taste of an increasingly intrusive socialist/communist leaning government. People got an even bigger taste of an overspending, overreaching federal government. If we can limit the damage that Pelosi, Reid, Obama, etc. do to the country over the next eleven months I believe we have a real chance of seeing a shift back toward the conservative, libertarian principles on which this country was founded.

How about this idea- We create a federal election account by adding a tax of $5 per taxpayer for a political campaign fund. US citizens would be allowed to donate to this fund if they wish, but have no say in who receives the funds. This money will be distributed equally three ways: one part to Democrats, one part to Republicans, and one part to all third parties that demonstrate they can get a certain percentage(maybe 10%) of the vote in any single election for a national office. If a third party manages to hold 10% of national offices(House, Senate, President) then they would get an equal share of the fund and the pot would be split four ways. There would be a limit set on how much could be spent on the campaign of any single individual. Any money that is not spent for a campaign would have to be returned to the campaign fund. Individuals and corporations would not be allowed to contribute to any candidate directly, but they would be allowed to advertise for the candidate of their choice. But for every dollar that an individual or corporation spent on advertising for a candidate, they would have to pay one dollar to the political campaign fund. Also, corporations would have to have the written consent of every US citizen who had any ownership interest in the company. Television networks, radio stations, newspapers, etc. cannot donate advertising time/space to individuals, corporations, or political parties, they must charge the normal advertising rates. Any taxpaying individual can volunteer to work on any campaign, but cannot contribute financially. An person who does not pay taxes(some exemptions could apply), or is not an immediate relative of someone who does(spouse, son/daughter who is still a dependent) cannot donate their time since they are not contributing to the campaign fund. The cap for the national political campaign fund would be $500 million. This amount could be adjusted upward with inflation or with a third party gaining an equal split in the "pot", and the $5 tax would be repealed, if it was demonstrated that donations and advertisement dollar matching could sustain the fund. Any money over that amount would go to paying the national debt and could be not be used for any other purpose. What do you all think? I am sure there are a million holes in this thing. It's just a sort of stream of consciousness idea I just had.

Here's what it costs me at today's prices: .45 Auto lead(purchased, not home cast) plinking ammo using saved(free) brass- ~$7/100 .45 Auto Premium ammo using saved brass- ~$29/100 .223 Rem. jacketed plinking ammo using saved brass- ~$22/100 .223 Rem. premium target ammo using saved brass- ~$28/100 .308 Win. premium match ammo with new brass on every loading- ~$112/100 All of these prices exclude sales tax/shipping. That .308 price sounds high, but that's using brand new Lapua brass for every round. When you consider that good factory loaded match ammo is $150+/100 it's actually considerably cheaper. And I can load good .308 brass at least 5 times which cuts the total handloading cost to ~$56/100.

I think we need to give Scott Brown a chance. The fact that the progressive/socialist far left persistently attacked him gives me some hope that he may be a decent person, and I like that he associated himself with the Tea Party movement.

Nice. Personally, I like this idea- http://renovomedia.com/news/lane-kiffin-sewage-center-vol-fan-files-to-rename-water-treatment-facility/

Me too. I watch the games, but I won't watch one minute of the pregame, postgame, or halftime. I cannot stand that guy. And based on his ratings, it seems that few people can.

That was one of the funniest things I've ever read! I actually have tears in the corners of my eyes!

Good video. I'm pulling for him.

The PACT scales, and the RCBS models that are made by PACT(not all RCBS digitals are made by them), are made in the USA.

That I know of: Irish, Scottish, English, Cherokee, Lenape(Delaware), Norman, and German. One of my great-great-etc. Uncles was a Brig. Gen. who was killed during the War of Northern Aggression. The European part of my family has been here since at least the 1650s. The native part was here much earlier.

He needs to learn to count to 8.

Phil Fulmer with David Cutcliffe, 8.3 years- 86-19, .819Phil Fulmer without David Cutcliffe, 8 years- 66-33, .667

Phil? Is that you?

Welcome!

I like Cutcliffe too, but I'd rather see a bigger name/younger guy as Tennessee's new head coach. Chavis lost his job when Fulmer was forced to step down, but I don't think he was fired directly. I think he would probably come back to Tennessee if asked. He coached here for nearly 20 years and played here before that. I'm sure he would come back if Hamilton were sent packing as Luckyforward has recommended.

I don't. They deserve themselves. I do wish the NCAA would pull an SMU("death penalty") with the USC football program though. That would be priceless.

How about Gary Patterson from TCU, Chris Peterson from Boise State, or Skip Holtz from ECU? All proven winners in the non-BCS conferences. Personally, I'd love to see Gruden come to Tennessee but I don't see it happening. I wouldn't even be against Mike Leach, but right now he'd be recruiting poison. I'm guessing maybe David Cutcliffe or John Chavis? They both have a lot of history at UT, assuming they left on decent terms. Oh and I agree with whoever said that Kiffin could go fornicate himself and the equine conveyance he rode in on.

A very heavy crimp is not necessary, and is actually unwanted, on cartridges that index on the case mouth. When I'm loading jacketed bullets for .45 Auto, I bell the case mouth just enough to seat the bullet and I only use just enough crimp to remove the belling. I use just a little more crimp with lead bullets. Testing has shown that too much crimp, particularly on hard jacketed bullets, can actually reduce neck tension and increase the likelihood of setback. As long as the expander in your die isn't too large, you should be fine with minimal crimp. A heavy crimp is a poor replacement for proper case neck tension. You should always load a dummy round and cycle it through your firearm several times measuring for setback when setting up a die.

+1. Even LEOs are criminals if they are breaking the law.

Done.

That editorial is right on the money. It's a pity most people are too stupid to realize it.

I'm not a professional refinisher but I am a professional carpenter. If the wood doesn't have any varnish, polyurethane, or other top coat on it, and is a lighter color stain than what you want to match, you might be able to lightly sand it and stain directly over it, but it will be hard to match the color. To really do the job right you will need to get ALL of the old stain off. That means lots of sanding. You can use stripper if the finish is built up heavily on the wood, but stripper won't take the finish out of the wood grain. You have to do that with sandpaper. This is the way that I do it: Start with 80 or 100 grit paper and sand everything down good, getting all of the old stain off. Then switch to 150 grit and sand it all again to make it smoother. Then switch to 220 grit to get it smooth enough to refinish. You can skip the 150, but that means you'll have to work twice as hard with the 220. After you sand everything down smooth with the 220, wipe everything down with a tack cloth to get all of the dust off. Then you can put your first finish coat on. After the first coat, lightly sand it again with 320 grit paper(the stain will raise the grain which needs to be sanded back down) and wipe it down with a tack cloth. Keep adding finish coats, sanding with 320 grit between each coat and wiping it down with a tack cloth until you get the finish you want. Then add several protective coats of polyurethane(whatever sheen matches your other furniture) to make the finish more durable. Again, lightly sand with 400 grit and wipe down with a tack cloth between each coat. ETA: I am assuming that this chest of drawers is made of solid wood, right? If it is made of plywood, be very careful not to sand too deeply. Plywood only has a thin veneer on top and if you get through that, it's ruined. The veneer on most of the plywood I see nowadays is getting thinner and thinner. The birch plywood we are getting anymore has a veneer that is maybe 1/64" thick, if that. It doesn't take much sanding at all to cut right through it.

That's the green version of my scale.