USMCJG

I have Lyman, Hornady, Sierra, and Nosler books and use them all, as well as powder manufacturers data that can be found on the manufacturers websites. I think the Lyman manual is the best for a beginner, it has plenty of helpful information beyond just load data and is geared more toward beginning reloaders than the others I have. The Lyman manual doesn't have as many different loads and bullet types as the Hornady and Sierra manuals, but it is not brand specific like the others. I shoot a lot of Hornady and Sierra bullets, so their manuals are handy to have. The Nosler manual isn't too bad, but it's the weakest of the bunch, most notably the lack of OAL info. My recommendation would be to start with the Lyman manual and go from there. Anything you can't find in it can be found online easily enough. And honestly, as someone mentioned earlier, with all of the information available online you could really get by with no manual at all. I do like having all of my reloading books right in front of me on my bench though.

The Weaver holds zero just fine so far. Overall, I really like this scope. As for rings, regardless of whether the scope is fixed or variable, you can't have a consistent shooting scoped rifle without solid optics mounts. These particular rings are very beefy. For the money, you'd be hard pressed to find more solid rings than these.

I can't speak for BigK, but I mark mine when I form cases from one caliber to another. For instance, I load for .260 and sometimes I form .260 cases from .243, 7mm-08, or .308 cases. Marking them keeps confusion to a minimum, especially since I also load for .308. I have always used Sharpies but I am curious to see how the Dykem works out.

Tip- Keep cordless phones, flourescent lights, cell phones, most any electronic device away from your digital scale. Most electronic devices emit RFs that can interfere with your scale. 10ft. clear is a good rule of thumb. Phones and flourescent lights are typically the two things that many people may have near their scales that can cause problems. Incandescent lighting is the way to go to light your bench. Tip- Redding Primer Pocket Uniformers not only do a great, foolproof job of uniforming primer pockets, they also make excellent primer pocket cleaners once the pockets have been uniformed. Tip- If you use an RCBS Chargemaster Combo, don't forget to close the dang drain spout after you empty the reservoir. I learned that the hard way, forgot I learned it, then learned it the hard way again. This probably applies to other digital powder dispensers as well.

I've had good results in every caliber I've ever loaded SMKs for. I've never found anything else that could consistently equal them for the same money. As for the PRS, the thing I like most about it is that it allows me to get proper eye relief with a natural setup, without using an extended rail. And the LOP is right on. The downside to my accessory choices is that this rifle currently weighs in at ~16 lbs.. It's a heavy sucker. But I didn't set it up to be a field rifle. I wanted it to be a benchrest/prone gun for paper punching fun. All indications are that it will be excellent in that role.

I shoot at the same place myself sometimes and see the occassional old-timer come through picking up spent brass, but not like that. Considering he was an old-timer, I would have probably let it slide too. But I agree with others, I NEVER pick up anyone else's brass unless I ask first or I wait and pick it up after they leave. I've been to the same range several times and had other shooters not only help me police my own brass, but even police their brass and give it to me. And I have done the same for others. Some people are beyond help, but with most folks you get what you give.

I recently purchased an ArmaLite AR-10(T) in .260 Rem. and thought I would post a before and after pic. Before- After with Magpul PRS stock, Ergo Tactical Grip w/Palm Shelf, Burris Extreme Tactical Medium Rings, and Weaver Tactical 3-15x50 EMDR mil./mil. scope- I haven't had a chance to shoot it since I added the stock and grip. But early testing indicates that it will be a good performer. I tried several different loads when I first took it to the range. In all of the loads I used the same powder/case/primer- 41.0gr. H4350/New Nosler Custom Brass/Fed. 210M Primers. I tried 142gr. SMK, 140gr. Nosler Cust. Comp., 140gr. AMax, and 140gr. Hornady Match. All of those bullets shot near 3/4 MOA or better, with the 142SMK shooting a .323 3-shot group(all groups shot at 100 yards). I only loaded five of each, so I had two foulers and 1 three shot group. I was extremely happy to see one of these do sub .5" with standard OALs and no load development. Is anyone else reloading for an AR in .260 Rem. that has any loads that they have had success with? The .260 seems to be tailor made for the AR-10 platform with its low recoil and excellent ballistic performance. But there isn't a lot of specific loading information out there for the .260 in the AR platform, at least that I can find.

+1. I read a LOT of reviews on dispenser combos before I bought one. I wound up paying the extra money and getting the RCBS too. When it comes to pretty much any other reloading tool, I would take Hornady or Lyman over RCBS. But when it came time to buy a dispenser, the reviews on the Hornady and Lyman were just too spotty for me.

It's hard to believe how much money the government sends to foreign countries when there are so many quality handguns made in the USA.

Maybe check out STI too, if you can find one. The Trojan would probably be around the same price range you are looking at. All STIs are US made(Texas), except for the Spartan which is their entry level 1911. I have handled a few Sigs, and I own a Springfield and two STIs as well as a couple other 1911s, and I would take an STI every time for the money. I am not at all impressed by the fit and finish of my Springer, it is the most ill-fitted of all my 1911s, although it has been very reliable so far. But my STIs are both top shelf in fit, finish, and function.

I'm a 1911 guy, but out of all the others it would either be a Sig P220 or M&P.

I would take whatever I could get my hands on, but given a choice it would be a 1911. The simple reason is parts and magazine availability and known ultra long term reliability. As someone said earlier, you won't be able to order anything so you would have to pick up whatever parts/magazines you can find. There are, without question, many, many times more 1911s out there than there are Glocks. And I know for a fact that there are plenty of 100 year old 1911s out there that will still shoot to this day. Annecdotely, I ran into a guy at the range a while back that was shooting a pre-WWII 1911, with pre-WWII magazines with the ORIGINAL springs, and the only problem he had was that the slide wouldn't lock open after the last shot(no surprise there). I KNOW a 1911 will run even when it's been neglected for 6+ decades. I don't know that about Glocks.

I have one of these and it is a good scope, especially for the money.

My 2nd EBR I just got. It's an ArmaLite AR-10T in .260 Rem. and I can't wait to shoot it. My scope, rings, dies, brass, and bullets are on the way and I should have it up and running by next Sunday-

I have had good results from Accurate #5 as well.