Doubs43

  Now that's great advice IMO. Remington hasn't made a decent .22LR cartridge in many years and that's pitiful for one of America's premier arms makers. Their Golden Bullets are pathetic as well. It's what happens when the bean counters have control and quality takes a back seat to profit.   OTOH, .22's are notorious for being ammo sensitive. Each .22 rifle or pistol is a law unto itself so it's often necessary to experiment with different cartridges to find what works best.   The OP's Ruger may well need to be broken in and after a few bricks it may smooth out and be completely reliable. I'd start by making certain that the chamber is spotlessly clean before each use as residue can cause problems. While it may be painful to your bank account, the pistol may prefer a more expensive cartridge. I paid $135 yesterday for two bricks of RWS Target Rifle cartridges. It hurt - a lot - but the rifle I use to shoot IBS bench rest matches loves the stuff... and it's actually pretty cheap compared to the upper tier ammo.   One final though; ALL semi-auto pistols require resistance to recoil in order to function properly. If the grip is relaxed, the shooter can cause the pistol to jam.

I have the Shooting Chrony Beta Master that can be found for under $150. It stores shot strings of 10 with min., max, average and std deviation readouts as well as each individual shot. The screen is attached by a cable that allows it to be set on the bench for easy viewing and no danger of being accidentally shot. The screens are high with wide opening support posts to allow bullets to pass through with no chance of hitting them. Everything operates on a long lasting 9v battery.   Decide what features you really need and what you can do without. Then look at all the various models that satisfy your requirements. Once you've decided on a make & model, look for rebates, sales etc.   Good luck finding what you need.

This is my Wilson Combat build on an Aero Precision lower and three targets shot at 100 meters (109 yards). The first one, top left, was for sight adjustment. SPP-210 powder is a Swiss powder that's like H-4198. The AR-15 can be remarkably accurate. [URL=http://s70.photobucket.com/user/doubs43/media/AR%20Wilson%20Combat%20BBL/Aero_Precision_AR-15-1_zpso6w1lzpa.jpg.html][/URL] [URL=http://s70.photobucket.com/user/doubs43/media/AR%20Wilson%20Combat%20BBL/53Gr_SMK_21.5_Gr_SPP-210_100_Mtrs_zpsbmu8jydk.jpg.html][/URL]

There are many books that tell you how to put together an AR-15 in great detail. If you're close to a Barnes & Noble book store, they may have what you need in stock or get it for you quickly.   Having built a few myself, I suggest that you first acquire the necessary tools you'll need.  A good armorer's wrench that includes a spanner for the buffer tube castle nut, torque wrench, block set to protect the upper and lower receivers during assembly and a few other items.   I've built on Stag Arms, PSA, Anderson and Aero-Precision uppers and lowers. I've used blems when I could get them and honestly don't know what the blem is. ALL of them have performed well and without problems. I've used lower parts kits from PSA and CMMG. My BCG's are from various suppliers.   Calibers I own include .223/5.56, .25-45 and 7.62x39. (The 7.62x39 I bought as a complete upper sans BCG & charging handle from Anderson Rifles. Everything else I put together on it.)   My worst rifle? I used a cheap 16" M-4 profile 1:7 .223 barrel made by Mossberg and sold by JoeBob Outfitters. It was Melonited and I think that included the bore. Initially, it shot large "groups" so I cleaned the bore with JB Bore Brite really, really well. The groups magically shrunk to sub-MOA from the bench. Every AR I own will keep 5 shots under an inch at 100 yards from the bench but the jewel is one I built using a Wilson Combat 20" SS "Super Sniper" barrel with a Wylde chamber in .223.   Good luck building your rifle(s) and I'd like to know how they shoot once you're finished.

No one has mentioned the Bulgarian SLR-93 or SLR-95. They'll be used but have milled receivers and are top quality. My SLR-95 was purchased during the ban and had a thumbhole stock. To legally convert it, I had to use at least five parts made in the USA. The fire control parts number three while the pistol grip and stock make up the other two. Not sure what they sell for at the moment but they are worth looking for IMO. [URL=http://s70.photobucket.com/user/doubs43/media/SLR-95/SLR-95_Composite_zpsdr33mukr.jpg.html][/URL]

Thank you for an actual reply. I know this is an ancient thread but I had no idea it rankled some people so much. It was my first post here so I have a learning curve to travel before I know the personalities who post on this forum. I'll learn.  :pleased:   I have a series 70 (A1) and a series 80 (A2) Tisas. Neither rattle and both are tight and smooth. The A2 had a bit of creep in the trigger which required stoning the sear & hammer. It's now as nice as the A1. After shooting my A1, a friend purchased one of the "enhanced" A2 models and is also quite pleased with it. It had the same creep in the trigger as my A2 and it's been touched up to be crisp.   I've owned three RIA 1911's, a Colt Commander and a Thompson. Presently I own several 1927 Argentines, the two Tisas 1911's and a Military Spec Springfield. All are excellent shooters; accurate and reliable. I like my 1911's and my Tisas models suit me fine. My experience - so far - has been 100% positive and I don't see them as "cheap" but rather "inexpensive". Their quality is well above "cheap"... IMO, of course.

I know that this is a very old thread but owning a pair of Tisas 1911's and six Turkish handguns total, I simply want to recount my experience which is totally at odds with the OP's. While I haven't counted the rounds that I've put through my 1911-A1 (Series 70 type) Tisas, I'm confident that it's between 800 and 1,000. 100% of my cartridges are reloads using cases that have been reloaded many times. At first I had a couple of rounds fail to chamber but I quickly found that they weren't quite sized correctly. After adjusting my taper crimp die, I now drop each cartridge into a barrel chamber to make sure they are OK. Since then, NOT ONE SINGLE FAILURE of any kind after many hundreds of rounds. Accuracy is more than adequate. Sights are typical GI but I have no problem with them. All controls are positive and GI surplus mags work great. The trigger is creep free, breaking at about 4 1/2 pounds as it came from the box. The black finish is TOUGH and has almost no wear on it. My holster is a Tom Threepersons model from El Paso Saddlery. It fits like a glove. This is a pistol I would bet my life on and I've been so impressed that I bought a Tisas 1911-A2 (Series 80 type) to go with it. The trigger had a bit of creep so I stoned the hammer and sear to get a trigger as nice as the 1911-A1 Tisas. It has about half the cartridges through it that the 1911-A1 has but both accuracy and reliability are just as good so far. The only improvement I would suggest is for Tisas to replace the smooth grips with double diamond checkered grips. I've replaced both of mine. My other four Turkish pistols are all based on the CZ-75 or CZ-97; two by Canik55 (40 S&W and 9mm) and two by SAR (45ACP and 9mm). Only one of them has given even a hint of trouble. The SAR B6PC in 9mm had an ejection problem that was easily solved by bending the ejector tip upward a few thousands of an inch and the trigger axle pin wanted to drift to the right during recoil. The frame is polymer and a small dab of epoxy on the pin hole took care of that. Reliability since has been 100%. A few years back, an RIA 1911 could be had for about $350. Many avoided them as "cheap" but we now know that they are well made and reliable. The 1911-A1 and A2 Tisas pistols are about $350 now and IMO worth much more. I'm sold on them. Below is a target I shot with 15 rounds of 185 grain and 15 rounds of 230 grain bullets at 18 yards using two hands. I'm nearly 73 and could have done better a few years ago. :) [url=http://s70.photobucket.com/user/doubs43/media/Tisas%201911A1/Tisas_1911A1_30_shots_18_Yds_zpsuc7ktqey.jpg.html][/URL]