56FordGuy

No one is guaranteed a job, or a career. Period, in any industry. There is no such thing as 'job security'. The company a person works for could get sued and close, the self employed landscaper could lose his equipment in a flood and not have the money to replace it. Crap happens. Is it fair, or right? Maybe not, but it's life. If someone said the effects of the spill will be gone in a year, they're wrong. I don't feel like reading back 11 or so pages to find it, though. You keep saying BP has shown negligence for years. What proof of that do you have? I've never worked for them, don't know anyone who has. I can't say either way. If they have though, I'd like to see some proof of it. Once things settle down, and they solve the leak, and they get into the investigation of the incident, any violations will undoubtedly come out. Until then, all I'm saying is lets keep the torches and pitchforks at bay.

Whassat mean? Err, I meant "WSSTMN?" As for the landlord, I'd try TDR's suggestion. If you can't work out some sort of deal, then see if you can just get out of the lease. I'd talk to the landlord, too, not just the maintenance guy. "He won't fix it" from the maintenance man might be code for "I don't want to put in a dishwasher." Good luck!

Between those two, I'd buy whichever I found a better deal on. Same with a Marlin Model 60. Given the choice for a semi auto, I'd go find a Remington Speedmaster. I found one a few months ago, and I'm a big fan. Tube magazine, shoots shorts, longs, or long rifle ammunition, and seems to be much more accurate than my Marlin or my Ruger.

I never knew there was a law concerning possession of lock picks. I always figured that it was okay to have, but you could be charged with possession of burglary tools if you were found with them while committing a crime. I could be wrong, though. I took a course and did a little bit of locksmith work a few years ago, have kept a generic lockout tool since then to help out stranded folks. Never thought about getting into trouble for having it, but I have a card somewhere that says I'm 'certified'. Ain't I special. Lots of local PDs are (or were) getting away from doing free lockout services. Modern vehicles are much harder to access with a 'slim jim' than they used to be, and the risk of damage (side impact air bags, power option wiring damage) is much greater than it used to be.

Cool! As you buy more dies for more calibers, take a look at Hornday. I don't have any of their dies, but I believe they're still running a special where you get 100 free bullets with the purchase of a set of dies.

I don't think anyone said that the effects from this spill would be gone anytime soon. It's going to change things for a lot of people, for a long time. As for your analogy, I don't think it's an even comparison. If you were driving the car you bought, and a mechanical component of the car (like the brakes) failed, and you caused a wreck, is that your fault? By the logic you've used here, then yes, it would be. So what if you just bought the car, you owned it. Your name was on the title. Why would it matter if a mechanical component of your property failed, it was still your property.

Why do we have to be mad at anybody? I don't want to 'minimize' the effects of the spill, but accidents happen. As for the fishermen, I was under the impression that there are cleanup crews currently working. They've tried to stop the leak. That seems to be occupying a lot of their effort. No, they haven't done it yet, but, they have tried a bunch of different things. They've had some of the best people in the field working to stop the leak, it's not just Jimbo and Billy Bob trying to stick a plunger on top of it. BP did not make the oil rig, nor the pipe that broke, nor the blowout preventer that failed. What do you want them to do? Put on some gloves and go feed pipe into a relief well drill rig? Try and operate one of the ROVs that have been working at the ocean floor? I doubt that the company executives are experts in that stuff. The people that they have doing it, though, are professionals. It's what they do. What can the executives do, that they aren't?

The .38 and .357 use the same dies. The .357 case is slightly longer, so you will have to re-adjust them when you change calibers. No big deal. Carbide dies are what you want for straight walled handgun loads (where the brass doesn't bottleneck at the top) because you don't have to lubricate the brass before loading, and they last longer. The single stage vs turret press is a personal choice. The turret will be a little faster, but not by much. I started with the Lee Turret Press, I would not do it again. I would get the single stage. The single stage will always be useful. The turret press won't load as many rounds per hour as a real progressive, so if you're buying the turret for speed you may find yourself disappointed, and upgrading to a progressive press down the road. The turret will load more than the single stage, but with less precision. I would go single stage. Even if you find yourself buying a progressive later, the single stage is great when you don't want to readjust the progressive just for 10 or 20 rounds to try a new load. I'd recommend you pick up at least two load books, and buy/ borrow The ABCs of Reloading.

I have to ask. Maybe I missed it somewhere. Why are you mad at BP? Do you think they're enjoying the oil spill? Really? 11 people died, a platform sank, the oil that they had planned to refine and sell is pouring out into the sea, and to top it off they have to stop the leak, pay for the cleanup, and then deal with all the bad press/ lawsuits/ etc that are sure to result from this. Why wouldn't they be doing everything in their power to stop it?

The kicker is, this too goes back to the greenies. If they would allow more drilling on land, or drilling in shallow water, a situation like this would probably be far more easily repaired. But, we can't do that. Might hurt the environment.

Never seen one in person, but from the photos it appears that the door only has locking bolts on one side, and none on the top or bottom. That concerns me a little. The latches to assemble it seem a bit unreliable, too. Something about that type latch makes me uneasy. Zannotti Armor makes a multi- piece safe also. I looked into them a couple of years ago. If I recall correctly, their design has pins to hold it together.

That's what I've found. I believe the tower is a 416A model. The others I haven't found model numbers for yet.

It is the Champion Safe Outlet Store. If you're headed down John Sevier from the Wendys, the sign is on the right side of the road. You'll turn right on a smaller road, and their building is toward the end on the left. Seem like good people, they were at a gun show in Smyrna a long time ago. I stopped at their facility a couple of weeks back, and they had a good selection of safes. I don't know if they're considered 'wholesale' or not, though. I checked with them and The Safe House here in Nashville on a particular model, and found The Safe House was very competitive on the price. The Outlet was slightly less expensive, but not enough to make up for the drive over to Knoxville.

$118.00 sounds like a pretty fair price, too. Was the vendor set up with coffins as a display? There was a company at the Murfreesboro show that sold a bunch of AR stuff, and had coffins as their display tables. Might be the same guys.

Everything is all metal. I did a Google search and found a train site that seems helpful. I mostly just want to know when it was made, then I'll put it up on the wall somewhere with some of my other old stuff.

That's not that awful. Last time I renewed my CDL, it was either $40.00 or $50.00, and had to be done in person. At least you could do yours without having to drive to the DMV and wait!

Finally got some pictures. No names, just "Made in USA". There's an ink pen in the photos for scale.

I would opt for flood over a spot. Odds are the light won't do you any good shooting great distances, but would be more efficient to light up the entire wall of a room at one time.

I've got this one, also. I've been very happy with it.

Notifying the police would be a good idea, if you haven't already.

These are identical as the Fiskars line of axes. I've got the hatchet that's one size up from the Pack Axe, and the Super Split wood splitting axe. They've both been great. They were both very sharp out of the box, and have held an edge well. I don't know why you'd ever need to use a hatchet to split wood, but if you do be sure that you don't try to drive it through the wood by hitting the back of the head with another axe, hammer, etc...unlike most other steel tools, instead of deforming or mushrooming out, it will crack and break. Good stuff.

Long story short, I ran across a few old model train pieces, and I want to learn more about them. There are a few cars, but the ones I'm interested in the most are track accessories, I guess. Crossing signs and such with old style screw in light bulb sockets and cloth wrapped wiring. The only letters I can find on them are 'Made in USA' stamped in the metal bases. Where is the best place to learn about stuff like this? I did a google search, but found several pages of places selling model trains and track. Anyone here familiar with stuff like this?

You could say I'm a car guy, except that I can't stand cars. Trucks and tractors, though... Only personal vehicle is a '56 Ford truck, current projects are a few old IH tractors. Currently looking for another 7.3 PowerStroke.

I personally bought a Garmin Nuvi (285 model, I think) and my company bought the Nuvi 205 for our work trucks. The 205 does everything that my 285 does, except for the traffic warnings; and I found that useless on my 285 anyway. It would warn me about traffic 20 miles away, and by the time I had gotten there it was clear; but the GPS said it was still messed up. Beware of buying from an electronics store. I haggled in the store and got my GPS with lifetime updates for $200.00, then found it noticeably cheaper online. I'd also advise against buying the lifetime updates. It seemed like a good idea at the time, because a map update can cost $60.00 or more by itself. However, they only update the maps for a particular area every few years. At the rate electronics technology changes, by the time the maps for the places you go are updated you'll be able to get a brand new unit with better features for a very reasonable price. That's my theory, anyway. If I had it to do over, I would not have bought the unit with lifetime updates included.

I've wanted to go the the towing museum down there for a long time, but have still yet to do it. Every time I'm down there for work, I don't have the time to spare to stop by. One of these days... What about the Museum of Appalachia? I drove by it the other day over on 11E, is it pretty good?